Welcome All My Friends To The Show That Never Ends - Canna M & Nismo12 Team Up!

[millertm]

Yep, when roots touch plastic or fiber (smart pot) it's flower time. Bene bacteria and #7's will allow autos to grow. My Narco Purple (looks close to DD) was small yielder too as well so it just could be strain related.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Nismo12]

Yep, when roots touch plastic or fiber (smart pot) it's flower time. Bene bacteria and #7's will allow autos to grow. My Narco Purple (looks close to DD) was small yielder too as well so it just could be strain related.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

I honestly didn't think that 10 days is all it would take for roots to get to the bottom of a solo cup. She is a grower though. I wanted to top her so that we could spray half of her with the collodial silver solution we could get self pollination and get more DDA seeds. It'll still happen.

 

[ajagunle]

I was fine then went into our greenhouse to fed the veggies and all of a sudden it was like a strobe light was going off

Hi Nis, your set-up, attitude and journal continue to be outstanding reps to you both Occasionaly I have recently started to suffer from what I assumed were migraines, always started after spending time in the greenhouse, following medical advice I now plan any greenhouse activities for very early in the Morning, my Nurse suggested that I was actually experiencing a very very mild form of Sun/Heat stroke

Keep educating and entertaining

 

[millertm]

I honestly didn't think that 10 days is all it would take for roots to get to the bottom of a solo cup. She is a grower though. I wanted to top her so that we could spray half of her with the collodial silver solution we could get self pollination and get more DDA seeds. It'll still happen.

Solo cup. There you go. You know better. Look at RTK, how many solo cups do you see? They drop seeds in #7 all day long. Just talking crap. But seriously, solo cups will flower autos quick. You should have about 3 weeks in a #3, ask the two pros in Quebec.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Nismo12]

Hi Nis, your set-up, attitude and journal continue to be outstanding reps to you both Occasionaly I have recently started to suffer from what I assumed were migraines, always started after spending time in the greenhouse, following medical advice I now plan any greenhouse activities for very early in the Morning, my Nurse suggested that I was actually experiencing a very very mild form of Sun/Heat stroke

Keep educating and entertaining

The thing about it was that the green house was 82 degrees and I had been out there for 2 minutes. I am pipefitter/welder by trade and can take the heat. I've been in environments of 140 degrees so heat isn't an issue.

We have started taking the capsules that canna made and will continue to take CBD doses.

 

[Nismo12]

Solo cup. There you go. You know better. Look at RTK, how many solo cups do you see? They drop seeds in #7 all day long. Just talking crap. But seriously, solo cups will flower autos quick. You should have about 3 weeks in a #3, ask the two pros in Quebec.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

We tried starting them in their final pots 3 or 4 months ago and they didn't make it. We then put them in solos and they made it. We just talked about it since this happened now that we will plant them in their final pots.

3 weeks before they start flowering in a 3 is what you are saying? But one of these days we will get the hang of these darn autos....we will have enough seeds hopefully!

 

[millertm]

I'll pm you about a great way to start autos in big pots. I'm about to leave work after 4, 12's.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Mr. Krip]

We tried starting them in their final pots 3 or 4 months ago and they didn't make it. We then put them in solos and they made it. We just talked about it since this happened now that we will plant them in their final pots.

3 weeks before they start flowering in a 3 is what you are saying? But one of these days we will get the hang of these darn autos....we will have enough seeds hopefully!

I start my seedlings & clones in small containers, also. I personally think if you let them get a little root bound in a smaller container, they tend to take off when you transplant to a larger container.

That being said, and I'm not suggesting that this was a mistake you guys made, but one of the common problems with starting seedlings in large containers is over-watering. The root system on the seedling can't uptake a lot of water, so you need to water very lightly at the beginning, until there's a decent root system, to avoid pythium.



EDIT: It is my understanding that it's better to start autos in their final container, since you want to avoid any transplant shock with the short life cycle.

 

[Nismo12]

I start my seedlings & clones in small containers, also. I personally think if you let them get a little root bound in a smaller container, they tend to take off when you transplant to a larger container.

That being said, and I'm not suggesting that this was a mistake you guys made, but one of the common problems with starting seedlings in large containers is over-watering. The root system on the seedling can't uptake a lot of water, so you need to water very lightly at the beginning, until there's a decent root system, to avoid pythium.

Yup I will agree with you on the over watering part. We found it difficult to start them because we were used to starting them in smaller cups. We will try again and be using more caution.

 

[Canna Montana]

I start my seedlings & clones in small containers, also. I personally think if you let them get a little root bound in a smaller container, they tend to take off when you transplant to a larger container.

That being said, and I'm not suggesting that this was a mistake you guys made, but one of the common problems with starting seedlings in large containers is over-watering. The root system on the seedling can't uptake a lot of water, so you need to water very lightly at the beginning, until there's a decent root system, to avoid pythium.



EDIT: It is my understanding that it's better to start autos in their final container, since you want to avoid any transplant shock with the short life cycle.

Would you suggest only watering a 4" diameter with the seed in the middle of that? Maybe only a couple cups of water?

 

[Mr. Krip]

Would you suggest only watering a 4" diameter with the seed in the middle of that? Maybe only a couple cups of water?

Well, something like that and it depends somewhat on environmental factors (heat, humidity, wind, etc. which will all evaporate water!) and size of the container.

You don't want the soil on the outside edges of the pots to get hydrophobic, so you need to make sure it doesn't dry out entirely, but you want to make sure the seedling isn't sitting in "drenched" soil for very long.

I think, if you water around the seedling so that the surface dries and needs re-watering again in a couple of days (just like with a mature plant!), you'll be very safe. In the meantime, just make sure the rest of the soil doesn't get hydrophobic, which shouldn't happen quickly with no roots at the edge of the pots sucking up the moisture.

 

[Mr. Krip]

FYI...it's worthy to note that, once the seedling gets soaked, it basically triggers a chemical reaction that starts the germination process. Once the germination starts, the plant doesn't really need water, per se. It just needs that it's roots don't dry out completely.

The more roots, the quicker it will suck up the water and need re-watering so it doesn't dry out, but (for the noobs our there!), don't think just because we germinate in a glass of water and grow in hydro that your plant will grow in mud!

 

[Stage]

Morning Canna and Nis!!

 

[mouser]

Ive seen a lot of tiered plantings lately...maybe starting in a solo then cut the bottom 1/2 off of the plastic and plop it in something bigger?

 

[Canna Montana]

FYI...it's worthy to note that, once the seedling gets soaked, it basically triggers a chemical reaction that starts the germination process. Once the germination starts, the plant doesn't really need water, per se. It just needs that it's roots don't dry out completely.

The more roots, the quicker it will suck up the water and need re-watering so it doesn't dry out, but (for the noobs our there!), don't think just because we germinate in a glass of water and grow in hydro that your plant will grow in mud!

Krip, thank you so much for the speedy answer. It makes sense to me. Mouser has a good idea also. It'll be a little while before we drop an other auto since we are out of space for another pot.

 

[Canna Montana]

Morning Canna and Nis!!

Morning Stage! Happy 710!

 

[Canna Montana]

AUTO UPDATE TIME!!

We were playing around taking more pics of the girls today. The new camera is pretty fancy!!!!

Here are our first two autos. Thunder Bloody Mary Auto, and Early Miss Auto. We estimate we will harvest them in 2 weeks or so.

Up next is Shante, our Green Crack Auto. She is way bigger than the other two autos in the flower room. Ill post a pic of her then a comparison between Sparkle the monster photo, then Shante the green crack, then Early Miss.

Next up is a photo Purple Kush reveg we took from our second harvest. I think she will be a monster. We did some Lst and defoliation with her yesterday.

And her stalk at its base

The rest of the pics are of the veg autos. They were defoliated and had some Lst done to them to help increase yield.

Have a good night everyone and I hope you all had a great 710!!!!

 

[Canna Montana]

Tin Snips and hay wire bloody awesome hahaha

To be fair, it's coated wire. Lol!

 

[Mr. Krip]

whats 7/10? and bean bacteria? and #7 #3? i know these are pots but 3 gallon /7 gallon? . I need a map legend to explain a few things.

Yeah, that's basically correct, although a 1 gallon pot, technically, holds less than a gallon!

[h=2]About Nursery Plants Pots[/h]Nursery containers come in a number of sizes. Oftentimes, the particular plant and its current size determine the pot sizes used in nurseries. For instance, most shrubs and tree are sold in 1-gallon pots – otherwise known as a #1 pot size.

The # symbol is used to reference each class number size. Smaller containers (i.e. 4-inch pots) may also include SP in front of its class number, indicating a smaller plant size. In general, the larger the # is, the larger the pot and, thus, the larger the plant will be. These container sizes range from #1, #2, #3 and #5 to #7, #10, #15 on up to #20 or higher.

[h=2]What is #1 Pot Size[/h]The gallon nursery containers, or #1 pots, are the most common nursery pot sizes used in the industry. While they normally only hold 3 quarts of soil (using liquid measure), they are still considered to be 1-gallon pots. A variety of flowers, shrubs and trees can be found in this pot size.


As the plants grow or mature, nursery growers may step up the plant to another larger size pot. For instance, a #1 shrub may be stepped up to a #3 pot.


Variations in plant pot sizes can be quite different among individual nursery growers. While one nursery may ship a large, lush plant in a #1 pot, another might only send a bare, twiggy-looking plant in the same size. For this reason, you should research beforehand to make sure of what you are getting.

[h=2]Grade of Nursery Plant Pots[/h]In addition to the various pot sizes, some nursery growers include grading information. As with the variations among sizes, these too may vary among different growers. These are usually dependent on how a particular plant has been grown (its conditions). That said, the most common grades associated with plant pots are:

• P – Premium grade – plants are normally healthy, big and more expensive
• G – Regular grade – plants are of moderate quality, fairly healthy, average cost
• L – Landscape grade – plants are of less quality, smaller and least expensive choices

Examples of these might be #1P, meaning a #1 pot size of premium quality. A lesser grade would be #1L.

I believe the "bean bacteria" is Mychorrizae (I know I spelled that wrong!!! )

 

[Nismo12]

Breeding tent update

Today it was noticed that our DDA has shown her sex. So that only means one thing...colloidal silver applications will start and wont stop until pollen sacks open up. So I will give you a run down on what is going to happen for the next 4 weeks.

So without delay we went and got a 40 oz beer bottle for mixing the colloidal silver and distilled water. The 8 ounce bottle of 240 ppm colloidal silver mixed into the 40 ounce bottle will dilute it down to 48 ppm. I then took the solution and put it into an 8 ounce spray bottle and that should be enough for this project. When not in use they both need to stay out of light in a cool place. We are currently keeping it in one of our closets for safe keeping. This 40 ounces should be good for the next year. For $20 invested into this and we will be able to get hundreds of feminized seeds!

I then pulled her out of the tent and gave her a good spraying on the entire plant. This is the only time I will spraying all of the leaves and such. Tomorrow will be just the new growth and the nodes.

I then let her sit out for about 30 minutes before putting her back in under the lights. Don't want to risk burning the leaves while wet and that the colloidal silver doesn't like light, that's why the bottle it came in was blue and is now in a brown beer bottle.

Spraying will continue for roughly the next 3-4 weeks until sacs open up. 2-3 weeks and the nanners or sacs will be here then another week for them to open up. Then 40 days from pollination we will harvest our seeds!

That's all I have for this evening. Have been enjoying our concentrates today and back to the grind tomorrow. Ill leave you with our new friends in the rooms! Stay classy