you can flush and reset at anytime. especially if you are chasing a tox. make sure to lightly refeed after and monitor. long time since i was in a soil media.
post your feed sched and how much ..
Why’s this so hard?
you can flush and reset at anytime. especially if you are chasing a tox. make sure to lightly refeed after and monitor. long time since i was in a soil media.
post your feed sched and how much ..
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I know what the problem is...
You are not feeding correctly. You said nothing about feeding according to the FF feeding chart, so for now I am going to assume that you are mixing the trio correctly for the week of the grow that you are in.
Yes, in nature, in the soil, it is much easier for the plant to adjust to conditions and it seems it is easier to grow in the ground. You are growing in a container however, and that is a horse of a different color. In a container it makes a huge difference to be in the correct pH range, because the nutes are designed to be inert in the bottle, and once mixed with the properly pH adjusted water, they come to life and become available to the plant.
PH is much misunderstood, but soil pH is set to a base level of around 6.8-7.0 pH. This is on the high side of the soil pH availability chart for a very good reason. If you adjust your incoming fluids to 6.3 pH, at the low end of the scale, at the moment you water, the pH of your entire container is that of the fluid, or 6.3 pH. As the soil begins to dry from top down as the water table falls toward the bottom of the container, the dry soil reverts back to its base pH, depending on how wet it still is from the 6.3 adjusted fluid. This forces the nutes in that soil through the entire usable range of 6.2-6.8 pH, picking up each nutrient in turn as it becomes the most mobile. If you water at 6.3 pH, the system automatically does this for you in a buffered soil... just as it has been designed to do.
But this isn't your problem. Traditionally people water a container with nutes on one pass, immediately followed by a water only pass, pH adjusted, of course. This is because on the first pass, the full strength nutes are not able to be used by the plant in their entirety, there will be about half of those nutes left over in the soil. If you water with nutes again, you have just over fed, hence your toxicity... you are double feeding the plants. Then you come in a third time, triple feeding your plants. Your water only pass now has way too many nutes left over to clean up, and nutes are STILL left over in the soil after this single water only pass, and then it is time for you to feed again, still overloading the system.
Water/feed/water/feed/water/feed.... there is a good reason we do it this way... and your grow is an example as to why. Just this simply adjustment is going to greatly change the way the plants respond to you.
You are not feeding correctly. You said nothing about feeding according to the FF feeding chart, so for now I am going to assume that you are mixing the trio correctly for the week of the grow that you are in.
Yes, in nature, in the soil, it is much easier for the plant to adjust to conditions and it seems it is easier to grow in the ground. You are growing in a container however, and that is a horse of a different color. In a container it makes a huge difference to be in the correct pH range, because the nutes are designed to be inert in the bottle, and once mixed with the properly pH adjusted water, they come to life and become available to the plant.
PH is much misunderstood, but soil pH is set to a base level of around 6.8-7.0 pH. This is on the high side of the soil pH availability chart for a very good reason. If you adjust your incoming fluids to 6.3 pH, at the low end of the scale, at the moment you water, the pH of your entire container is that of the fluid, or 6.3 pH. As the soil begins to dry from top down as the water table falls toward the bottom of the container, the dry soil reverts back to its base pH, depending on how wet it still is from the 6.3 adjusted fluid. This forces the nutes in that soil through the entire usable range of 6.2-6.8 pH, picking up each nutrient in turn as it becomes the most mobile. If you water at 6.3 pH, the system automatically does this for you in a buffered soil... just as it has been designed to do.
But this isn't your problem. Traditionally people water a container with nutes on one pass, immediately followed by a water only pass, pH adjusted, of course. This is because on the first pass, the full strength nutes are not able to be used by the plant in their entirety, there will be about half of those nutes left over in the soil. If you water with nutes again, you have just over fed, hence your toxicity... you are double feeding the plants. Then you come in a third time, triple feeding your plants. Your water only pass now has way too many nutes left over to clean up, and nutes are STILL left over in the soil after this single water only pass, and then it is time for you to feed again, still overloading the system.
Water/feed/water/feed/water/feed.... there is a good reason we do it this way... and your grow is an example as to why. Just this simply adjustment is going to greatly change the way the plants respond to you.
Hi @Emilya. Great advice as always. While you're here I have a quick question regarding nutes and ph. I've always checked ph after mixing in the nutrients and adjusted accordingly from there. I just wanted to be sure that's correct or whether there's no need to adjust after adding nutes if the starting ph of the water is in range?I know what the problem is...
You are not feeding correctly. You said nothing about feeding according to the FF feeding chart, so for now I am going to assume that you are mixing the trio correctly for the week of the grow that you are in.
Yes, in nature, in the soil, it is much easier for the plant to adjust to conditions and it seems it is easier to grow in the ground. You are growing in a container however, and that is a horse of a different color. In a container it makes a huge difference to be in the correct pH range, because the nutes are designed to be inert in the bottle, and once mixed with the properly pH adjusted water, they come to life and become available to the plant.
PH is much misunderstood, but soil pH is set to a base level of around 6.8-7.0 pH. This is on the high side of the soil pH availability chart for a very good reason. If you adjust your incoming fluids to 6.3 pH, at the low end of the scale, at the moment you water, the pH of your entire container is that of the fluid, or 6.3 pH. As the soil begins to dry from top down as the water table falls toward the bottom of the container, the dry soil reverts back to its base pH, depending on how wet it still is from the 6.3 adjusted fluid. This forces the nutes in that soil through the entire usable range of 6.2-6.8 pH, picking up each nutrient in turn as it becomes the most mobile. If you water at 6.3 pH, the system automatically does this for you in a buffered soil... just as it has been designed to do.
But this isn't your problem. Traditionally people water a container with nutes on one pass, immediately followed by a water only pass, pH adjusted, of course. This is because on the first pass, the full strength nutes are not able to be used by the plant in their entirety, there will be about half of those nutes left over in the soil. If you water with nutes again, you have just over fed, hence your toxicity... you are double feeding the plants. Then you come in a third time, triple feeding your plants. Your water only pass now has way too many nutes left over to clean up, and nutes are STILL left over in the soil after this single water only pass, and then it is time for you to feed again, still overloading the system.
Water/feed/water/feed/water/feed.... there is a good reason we do it this way... and your grow is an example as to why. Just this simply adjustment is going to greatly change the way the plants respond to you.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Yes that is correct... you want to adjust the pH of your final fluid, immediately before applying it to the soil. It is a waste of time to measure (or correct as some people explain it) the pH of the water before mixing. The goal is to set the entire container to the pH that mathematically is proven to have the most nutes the most mobile, or 6.3 pH... and then let the soil do its job to drift the pH through the entire range as that soil dries out.
- Thread starter
- #25
DarionOzb
Active Member
Wow are you serious? Why even say they are 600/1000 w lights if they aren’t? No wonder my yields sucked. With the Horrible lights and my bad watering habits combined surprised they even lived as long as they did xD
- Thread starter
- #26
DarionOzb
Active Member
Thank you, I’ve been pHing wrong this whole time apparently because I only ph my water before I add nutrients . Didn’t make sense to me to ph afterwards if the contents in the bottle were already at a neutral ph state but w/e clearly I was wrong again. ughhhh there is so many little details about this growing process. Depending on how this goes, I might just give up. Tired of putting all this time and effort into these things and still being incorrect no matter how many forums I post or YouTube videos I watch or dispensaries I talk to. Clearly I’m the independent variable f-ing things up. Thanks for the great info!I know what the problem is...
You are not feeding correctly. You said nothing about feeding according to the FF feeding chart, so for now I am going to assume that you are mixing the trio correctly for the week of the grow that you are in.
Yes, in nature, in the soil, it is much easier for the plant to adjust to conditions and it seems it is easier to grow in the ground. You are growing in a container however, and that is a horse of a different color. In a container it makes a huge difference to be in the correct pH range, because the nutes are designed to be inert in the bottle, and once mixed with the properly pH adjusted water, they come to life and become available to the plant.
PH is much misunderstood, but soil pH is set to a base level of around 6.8-7.0 pH. This is on the high side of the soil pH availability chart for a very good reason. If you adjust your incoming fluids to 6.3 pH, at the low end of the scale, at the moment you water, the pH of your entire container is that of the fluid, or 6.3 pH. As the soil begins to dry from top down as the water table falls toward the bottom of the container, the dry soil reverts back to its base pH, depending on how wet it still is from the 6.3 adjusted fluid. This forces the nutes in that soil through the entire usable range of 6.2-6.8 pH, picking up each nutrient in turn as it becomes the most mobile. If you water at 6.3 pH, the system automatically does this for you in a buffered soil... just as it has been designed to do.
But this isn't your problem. Traditionally people water a container with nutes on one pass, immediately followed by a water only pass, pH adjusted, of course. This is because on the first pass, the full strength nutes are not able to be used by the plant in their entirety, there will be about half of those nutes left over in the soil. If you water with nutes again, you have just over fed, hence your toxicity... you are double feeding the plants. Then you come in a third time, triple feeding your plants. Your water only pass now has way too many nutes left over to clean up, and nutes are STILL left over in the soil after this single water only pass, and then it is time for you to feed again, still overloading the system.
Water/feed/water/feed/water/feed.... there is a good reason we do it this way... and your grow is an example as to why. Just this simply adjustment is going to greatly change the way the plants respond to you.
Since I’ve triple fed my plants I’m going to flush today. Idec if they seem to get “overwatered” They either gonna be poisoned or flushed so oh well.
Thanks y’all
they use a multiplication output factor of the total number of diodes to arrive at a figure for advertising.
don't worry, they mean it to be confusing lol.
better makers use other factors to advertise the efficacy of their fixtures.
it's best to go by the true draw of the light, which in led is determined by what the driver(s) pull. the light can't provide more than the driver can supply. most led fixtures are built to pull less than what the driver can do, to provide a safety factor.
Elevated Lighting Company
Well-Known Member
I can answer any questions you may have regarding our lighting. Just DM me if interested and we can chat.
lol love how @Emilya can wander in with a wait wait i got this ... and nail the nute side right to the floor .... 
Mark Gordan Smith
Well-Known Member
In my time in Kazak & Uzbek I've seen seed that was simply thrown at the ground and grew sweet as a virgin.
So I'd say the only way to get a result is throw Afghan seed at the ground in Afghanistan.
One thing is sure for me...and maybe only me, you sure ain't gonna top notch beads online, I don't care what seed bank you throw money at.
Please yourself good folk...I hold that seeds available to Ole Joe Public and The Man on the Clapham Omnibus have been so mated up worse than a naughty brother and sister's progeny.
Don't be downhearted DarionOzb, you'll get some kind of a smoke if you can throw enough Penicillin-Valium-steroids and such at the girls....sorry, Hermies.
Has the Mega-Crop craze faded away yet?
Ok Mods...Blow me away.
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Definitely nutrient burn.
6+ months in veg with that small of a plant means you need WAY more light.
And with that low a wattage when you feed what should be a normal amount you are actually overfeeding.
If you had an actual 600+ watts of light then likely you would not have had nutrient burn and you would have already harvested months ago.
Your next grow I would suggest that you get one 25 gallon fabric pot.
Fill that leaving about 2" space from top with a proper Clackamas Coots soil recipe and plant a cover crop and a thick mulch layer and inoculate with mycorrhizae.
Then just grow soil for a month, nurture the soil until when you walk into your grow room you can smell the soil.
It needs to be alive.
Put a few worms in the pot.
Plant a germinated seed into a solo cup with same soil, let it grow about a week in the solo cup then transplant into 25 gallon pot and basically forget about the plant just keep growing soil, keep the soil moist at all times never let living soil dry out just keep it moist.
Add Rove Beetles because you will get fungus gnats if you don't.
The soil will grow the plant, you just concentrate on growing and feeding the soil.
Water the soil with aloe vera, coconut water and Yucca extract.
About week 2 in veg water with an Alfalfa sprouted seed tea for the Triacontanol.
About week 7 of veg top dress with a mix of the best compost and worm castings you can find or make.
And water that in with coconut water and Mammoth P or BioPhos or whatever microbe mix you like that mobilzes phosphorus in the soil.
Probably flip to flower about week 8.
You can just water the soil with coconut water until harvest, keep it moist at all times and the soil will take care of the plant.
Should be no problem with deficiencies or toxicities and more than enough nutrients for proper growth.
But needs about 50w per square foot of light to run everything, you feed the plant light, you feed your soil nutrients.
That's the easiest possible way to grow.
It's only as hard you make it
6+ months in veg with that small of a plant means you need WAY more light.
And with that low a wattage when you feed what should be a normal amount you are actually overfeeding.
If you had an actual 600+ watts of light then likely you would not have had nutrient burn and you would have already harvested months ago.
Your next grow I would suggest that you get one 25 gallon fabric pot.
Fill that leaving about 2" space from top with a proper Clackamas Coots soil recipe and plant a cover crop and a thick mulch layer and inoculate with mycorrhizae.
Then just grow soil for a month, nurture the soil until when you walk into your grow room you can smell the soil.
It needs to be alive.
Put a few worms in the pot.
Plant a germinated seed into a solo cup with same soil, let it grow about a week in the solo cup then transplant into 25 gallon pot and basically forget about the plant just keep growing soil, keep the soil moist at all times never let living soil dry out just keep it moist.
Add Rove Beetles because you will get fungus gnats if you don't.
The soil will grow the plant, you just concentrate on growing and feeding the soil.
Water the soil with aloe vera, coconut water and Yucca extract.
About week 2 in veg water with an Alfalfa sprouted seed tea for the Triacontanol.
About week 7 of veg top dress with a mix of the best compost and worm castings you can find or make.
And water that in with coconut water and Mammoth P or BioPhos or whatever microbe mix you like that mobilzes phosphorus in the soil.
Probably flip to flower about week 8.
You can just water the soil with coconut water until harvest, keep it moist at all times and the soil will take care of the plant.
Should be no problem with deficiencies or toxicities and more than enough nutrients for proper growth.
But needs about 50w per square foot of light to run everything, you feed the plant light, you feed your soil nutrients.
That's the easiest possible way to grow.
It's only as hard you make it
