All Aboard - Dabber Blooms Buds In The Tub Of Love
- Thread starter TheMadDabber
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I've watched some videos on making worm bins and the main question I have is this: Is the result used as soil or top dressing? Everyone in the videos is using the castings as top dressing or for making tea, but none of them are growing weed!Hard to get any cheaper than a old planter or bin...
Morning Shed
I’m no expert but organic soil mixes often (usually?) use castings as 1/3 of the initial mix and the main source of nutrient/ organic matter in the soil. And then yes, top dressing and teas... so yes to all that. Castings are the key! (Or one of them at least
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Thanks Amy! So if I go with 1/3 castings, 1/3 soil, 1/3 perlite, does that mean I don't need to use nutes over the entire grow?Morning Shed
I’m no expert but organic soil mixes often (usually?) use castings as 1/3 of the initial mix and the main source of nutrient/ organic matter in the soil. And then yes, top dressing and teas... so yes to all that. Castings are the key! (Or one of them at least
Not exactly - but possibly. Depends what else is in there. There are many different ways to do it.
Bobrown does some water only grows in pretty sure, and he is a big vermicomposter. I think Van has done one as well...
I’m off to harvest now...
I use 60% vermicompost soil and 40% Pro-Mix/coir. Later in the grow if the plant looks nutrient hungry, I will spread a few handfuls of straight vermicompost as top dressing.
That sounds a hell of a lot better than the nute blending I do almost every other day!
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- #548
But I have probably 5/7ths coco 17th peat moss and 2/7 soil (approx) and perlite too already in the "wormhole" (instert sheds registered symbol here)
Should I still cut it again after the worms have had their fill?
That's what I'm thinking. Get this coco perlite soul cleaned up by the worms while one group flowers then it a ready a few months later for the next run. Less nutes may do some of the organic line toasty uses (forget the name) if need be in flower.
And @AKgramma if you only fill the bin half way, you just use two bins.
Once the worms nearly fully process the stuff in one bin, prepare a second. Then dump the nearly processed on top of the fresh scraps/ worm food/ goodies. Wait a day or 2 then scoop off the top half of stuff or until you find worms. They should have migrated down into the unprocessed stuff.
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Little logo work up i did this morning....
Gallery seems to be having issues but your avatar is 12 days late!
AKgramma
Well-Known Member
Ummmm.. I have a 30 gallon Rubbermaid storage tote to keep my soil mix in and it takes up a huge footprint in my small place. I wont have room to add on screens and filters and extra bins. After reading how the smaller one works, I can buy worm castings easier than I can farm my own worms.
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- #553
Just need to buy a second tote. And stack it on top (assuming there is room). Or use half at a time only put worm food on the right side for 2 months then switch to the left side (or the other way round).
But I like the 2 half filled smaller totes.
Once the Worms nearly process 1 tote.
Dump a on a fresh pile of worm food (compost) on tote #2, followed by the entire contents of tote #1. Wait a day. Scoop fresh compost off top. (Worms will have moved to unprocessed soil below).
Morning Shed
I’m no expert but organic soil mixes often (usually?) use castings as 1/3 of the initial mix and the main source of nutrient/ organic matter in the soil. And then yes, top dressing and teas... so yes to all that. Castings are the key! (Or one of them at least
Depends on your (or more importantly the suppliers) definition of "castings". Generally, bagged "worm castings" are the sifted worm poop from the media...they literally dump the bin over a shaker, collect the siftings, and continue using the media. This is a labor conserving issue. When you use the entire contents of your bin you are also incorporating the composted organic matter, (soil/coir) media, and the rest. It is a more diverse (and thankfully diluted) potting medium.
I have to collect all this info from the various threads...there's no way I will remember this in 3 months!
Another method which can be a little messier (but quicker) is dump the finished tote onto a tarp in bright light...worms will retreat to the inside of the vermicompost mound. Every hour (for about 3-4 hours), rush away the outside layers and ultimately you hit a bi ball of worms...toss them in the new bucket.
Not much to remember...feed them every 2 weeks and keep them moist...harvest your potting medium after 3 months.
RheinRover
Well-Known Member
WORMS!!!!
I think its time for a LOS set up, now that you have some good casting going. I'm on my second run of LOS soil and its really the easiest. Naturally buffers PH, no mixing of nutes and your girls will love you long time. If its something your interested in look up clackamas coots soil recipe. You can even get premixed amendments from BAS or KIS that will give you a good water only soil.
I know we are all looking to save a buck or two and this is really a good way. The soil is reusable some guys on here are on their 7th round with just minimal amendments.
If you're interested let me know, I have a ton of notes saved from building up my soil and would love to help.
I think its time for a LOS set up, now that you have some good casting going. I'm on my second run of LOS soil and its really the easiest. Naturally buffers PH, no mixing of nutes and your girls will love you long time. If its something your interested in look up clackamas coots soil recipe. You can even get premixed amendments from BAS or KIS that will give you a good water only soil.
I know we are all looking to save a buck or two and this is really a good way. The soil is reusable some guys on here are on their 7th round with just minimal amendments.
If you're interested let me know, I have a ton of notes saved from building up my soil and would love to help.
LOL....why do you think I am so bent on perfecting my soil so all I literally have to do is add water or ACT. Doesn't get much easier than watering every few days and nothing else.
Big difference between making vermicomposted soil and having a worm farm for the castings. The farm for the castings is more work and is just used to harvest worm pee and poop. The vermi composting is for making a base soil.
You could probably do a separate vermicomposting bin right on top of your soil cooking bin and it won't take any additional footprint. If lifting capability is an issue, you could use two smaller bins stacked on top of the bigger soil cooking bin. Would probably be much easier to move when you need to get in the underneath bin.
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