How To Grow With LEDs

 
Nice work, Dadums those look pretty sweet! If everybody had the knowledge and time and tools to build their own stuff, we could certainly save a lot of money that's for sure!
 
fiddler47 said:
Nice work, Dadums those look pretty sweet! If everybody had the knowledge and time and tools to build their own stuff, we could certainly save a lot of money that's for sure!
Click to expand...

I have to be missing something. You can get a 48x3 TopLED for 120 bucks how is 32x3 for 240 bucks saving money? Regardless nice job on the build!
 
$240 get you a mars2 80x5 and get some change or add extra $40 and get a mars 140x5w, but like smokey said, nice job!!! :thumb: :peace:
 
What can I say they fit my needs for the last 3 to 6 weeks
Here is the all new, absolute latest in LED technology and ultra efficiency LEDs from Philips. The Luxeon ES series is always improving!

The finest Red LED on the market - Even superior to Cree XR-E, XP-G and XT-E LEDS! Did you know that most Red LEDs on the market claiming to be 680nm are actually 620nm-650nm when viewed with a radiospectrograph?

- Forward Voltage is 2.00V @ 700ma

- Max current - 700ma

- Intensity 95 Lumens @ 700ma! This is the brightness you want to compare with any other true red or LED on the market. You will not find higher elsewhere.

- Wavelength -620nm (depending one what BIN we have in stock at the time of our order)

- Lens Beam Angle - 100°- 120° max

- Star - Comes pre-mounted to a MCPCB Aluminum 20mm wide star. This can be used with thermal paste, thermal glue, thermal tape, screws or rivets. We mount these in-house, using multi-thousand dollar American made digital reflow equipment in a humidity controlled enviromnent to ensure you get the longest lifespan out of your LED. They are mounted within tighter specifications and allowances recommended by the Philips datasheet which consistently results in maximum lifespans. Why trust anyone else to mount your LEDs for you?

- Model Number -LXM2-PD01-0050 - This is the best Red LED currently available!

- BIN - H4W - The best Bin currently available with the brightest output.

- Temperature - Can function up to 100°C (212°F) if properly heatsinked, hotter than any other LED!
 
Hey you sound like you know your shit, I'm a tradey. Will a 460-470 and 2000k (whites) panel be good to veg with?
 
Chlorophyll's absorption spectrum peaks sharply at 2 precise wavelengths; 440nm blue and 660nm red. This applies to all green leafy plants. The red absorption spike is narrow enough that even 15nm off of the peak 660nm results in half of the absoption rate, and it keeps dropping off the further it strays from the peak. The 660nm red leds are often the most expensive reds to buy wholesale, as are the 440nm for the blues. Led fixtures that don't specify wavelengths are most definitely not using the best possible color leds in their fixtures. Many people when analyzing these fixtures are just considering watts per dollar, and not factoring in the wavelengths in their assesment of the different led lights available.
 
fiddler47 said:
Chlorophyll's absorption spectrum peaks sharply at 2 precise wavelengths; 440nm blue and 660nm red. This applies to all green leafy plants. The red absorption spike is narrow enough that even 15nm off of the peak 660nm results in half of the absoption rate, and it keeps dropping off the further it strays from the peak. The 660nm red leds are often the most expensive reds to buy wholesale, as are the 440nm for the blues. Led fixtures that don't specify wavelengths are most definitely not using the best possible color leds in their fixtures. Many people when analyzing these fixtures are just considering watts per dollar, and not factoring in the wavelengths in their assesment of the different led lights available.
Click to expand...

That is what PAR values are for.
 
Hello Fellas
As spectrums go...
I just finished my first grow (cfl).
Happy results for little money, loved it.
Wanting to take it to the next level, I purchased a TopLed Reflector 96x3 with both veg and flower modes.
I have done a lot of reading on this and finally plunged into led.
Heat and efficiency were my main concerns in that order. And the spectrum, of course.
3w diodes and the "recommended" spectrum by the mfg, TopLed.(cree, epixtar and bridgelux diodes with reflectors at the diode)

I have to be as subversive as the next guy, but I have to believe that these mfgs in China are getting more results oriented to lengthen the life of their enterprise (brand). And I know the Chinese can grow weed. 2 and 2 together.

After keeping an eye on Buckshot and others here, I have to say, I'm vegging on "veg mode", saving 130 watts (from 300 cfl), temperature ceased being an issue, and my seedlings are looking great 2 weeks after popping them in jiffy pellets on DWC Hydroton buckets.
No transplanting. That's my main lesson from first grow, the less you fuck with it the better.
I'll post some pics when they cease to be kiddy porn, but I'm optimistic at this point.

Peace out.
 
Awesome thread and loads of info I now must soak up! :) tomorrows reading sorted :) Many thanks Harley and all contributors! !!
 
BigIrishDoode said:
IM fearful I may run out of headroom to ,yesterday I checked and had to raise the light about 6-7 inches I used bungees to do the trick an indispensable item in a grow space imho ,if I have to go up 1 more time it's going to be very tricky and I only have 6-8 inches to the top ,giving the thickness of the light I have only perhaps 4 more inches, the plants have done some more stretching hopefully it's done,
Click to expand...

This is exactly why having a a LED light that allows you to literally control/dim the LED helps a million.

I noticed that after two days of reading through LED threads and forums not one time did I here anyone mention the light spectrum as a factor.What I mean is plants want more blue spectrum during Veggie stage and we all know veggie stage sets the tone for your plants height to a certain degree. In this stage to a certain point is where height control takes place.

Now why did I say all that. Well.... Having an LED light with Veggie/flower/full grow channels will allow for more control over your plants. For instance in the Veggie stage of growth a FULL red spectrum is not really needed or wanted by the plants during veggie stage its kind of a waste of electricity running those specific LED diodes.

And like wise during certain parts of your flowering a FULL blue is not really needed or wanted because blue encourages stretching and especially when you nearing the end of your bloom/flowering stage of growth you would much rather have your plants working extra hard creating THC resins and thicker denser heavier buds. Having that full Blue on will allow the plant to still focus some of it's energy on growing taller.

So in the end..yes BID "hopefully it's done" is all that we can do if you do not have complete control over the LED's like 95% of LED lights made today you will see that these LED lights being a full spectrum light that runs all spectrum's at full capacity 100% of the time during all stages of growth has been a major factor to why we even have this thread as it is going to be a partial guessing game to an extent.

Now Imagine having an LED light where you set it at one height and then you flip a switch during clone/seedling stage and Bamm your LED diodes are running all spectrum's at a lower capacity(this is similar to the final flowering stage just at a less intense capacity mainly because for clones or seedlings they need that full spectrum but just not at full intensity)
...then when the plants are ready for a different spectrum(like more blue)...Baam! hit the veggie switch and your plants grow grow grow!
...then when your ready or your plants are ready(I say this become some people force their plants into flowering when the plants reach a desired height). switch another switch and ....Baam! Less blue and now your Red spectrum kicks into high gear to focus plant growth on creating buds and making them huge for bigger yields.
...Finally after your through the pre-flowering stage switch another switch and ....Baam! Your light is running 100% full capacity for that insane final flower stage boost utilizing 100% of the LED diodes.

My conclusion is when it comes to the hanging height of an LED the intensity of the light spectrum(whether blue, red, etc) and the effective distance that light spectrum works before its starts to loose its efficiency or is too strong and stresses the plant out(crab claw/curls leafs) is a huge factor to using your LED light to its fullest potential. As well as each plant strain will have its on desired intensity of light before it becomes happy. If the same light is used on one strain may be perfect to handle the intensity of the light as close as 1 foot while another may never want to be closer than 3 feet.

So in the end the height can be dependent on multiple factors:
*Strain
*Intensity of the LED diodes (PAR/LUX)(this determines maximum/minimum effective range)
*Whether the LED unit can be switched between gro/veg/flower or if all LED diodes are on at the same time.


Please I do not claim myself to be any kind of expert so If All or ANY of what I wrote is completely wrong then I am clearly misunderstanding all my facts and would be delighted if someone can correct me with and back it up with facts.

let me know if this was helpful in anyway as I am new to blogging and writing. I'm more of a verbal communicator type person. SO what I write may make sense to me but not to others and I will humbly admit that now in advance.

Hanging_height_effective_ranges_Fake_sample1.jpg
 
Looking good. Can't wait to get pics up
 
DankyDavid said:
This is exactly why having a a LED light that allows you to literally control/dim the LED helps a million.

I noticed that after two days of reading through LED threads and forums not one time did I here anyone mention the light spectrum as a factor.What I mean is plants want more blue spectrum during Veggie stage and we all know veggie stage sets the tone for your plants height to a certain degree. In this stage to a certain point is where height control takes place.



Now why did I say all that. Well.... Having an LED light with Veggie/flower/full grow channels will allow for more control over your plants. For instance in the Veggie stage of growth a FULL red spectrum is not really needed or wanted by the plants during veggie stage its kind of a waste of electricity running those specific LED diodes.

And like wise during certain parts of your flowering a FULL blue is not really needed or wanted because blue encourages stretching and especially when you nearing the end of your bloom/flowering stage of growth you would much rather have your plants working extra hard creating THC resins and thicker denser heavier buds. Having that full Blue on will allow the plant to still focus some of it's energy on growing taller.

So in the end..yes BID "hopefully it's done" is all that we can do if you do not have complete control over the LED's like 95% of LED lights made today you will see that these LED lights being a full spectrum light that runs all spectrum's at full capacity 100% of the time during all stages of growth has been a major factor to why we even have this thread as it is going to be a partial guessing game to an extent.

Now Imagine having an LED light where you set it at one height and then you flip a switch during clone/seedling stage and Bamm your LED diodes are running all spectrum's at a lower capacity(this is similar to the final flowering stage just at a less intense capacity mainly because for clones or seedlings they need that full spectrum but just not at full intensity)
...then when the plants are ready for a different spectrum(like more blue)...Baam! hit the veggie switch and your plants grow grow grow!
...then when your ready or your plants are ready(I say this become some people force their plants into flowering when the plants reach a desired height). switch another switch and ....Baam! Less blue and now your Red spectrum kicks into high gear to focus plant growth on creating buds and making them huge for bigger yields.
...Finally after your through the pre-flowering stage switch another switch and ....Baam! Your light is running 100% full capacity for that insane final flower stage boost utilizing 100% of the LED diodes.

My conclusion is when it comes to the hanging height of an LED the intensity of the light spectrum(whether blue, red, etc) and the effective distance that light spectrum works before its starts to loose its efficiency or is too strong and stresses the plant out(crab claw/curls leafs) is a huge factor to using your LED light to its fullest potential. As well as each plant strain will have its on desired intensity of light before it becomes happy. If the same light is used on one strain may be perfect to handle the intensity of the light as close as 1 foot while another may never want to be closer than 3 feet.

So in the end the height can be dependent on multiple factors:
*Strain
*Intensity of the LED diodes (PAR/LUX)(this determines maximum/minimum effective range)
*Whether the LED unit can be switched between gro/veg/flower or if all LED diodes are on at the same time.


Please I do not claim myself to be any kind of expert so If All or ANY of what I wrote is completely wrong then I am clearly misunderstanding all my facts and would be delighted if someone can correct me with and back it up with facts.

let me know if this was helpful in anyway as I am new to blogging and writing. I'm more of a verbal communicator type person. SO what I write may make sense to me but not to others and I will humbly admit that now in advance.

Hanging_height_effective_ranges_Fake_sample1.jpg
Click to expand...

Bam, think your on the money, it would add a fair cost to the unit though. I actually have seen a led with clone/veg/flower switch just can't remember which company made it though.
I actually have a veg room that's 2.75x5foot, with a led that's 3.5x3.5 footprint, my clones love the 4.5-5foot area in my room. The light here seems to be soft enough for them in this spot. Just a pity my mrs said she's leaving, my first indoor grow,7 week veg from seeds, three days into flowering, 8 clones 10 days old I just binned them all, don't know what she's capable of. Peace all, needed to tell somebody. Stoner sympathy anybody? Lol peace
 
yttocs1010 said:
im scotty and im doing 4 under led a 4 under 400 hps to compare check out my journal a couple of days to go and chopin time on the led plants they are ready the hps are going to take 1-2 weeks more and i think they will yield more we shall see

I have a question. What is the name brand of the LED light your using. How many watts? are they 1 watt, 3 watt or 5 watt LED's?
Click to expand...
 
DankyDavid said:
yttocs1010 said:
im scotty and im doing 4 under led a 4 under 400 hps to compare check out my journal a couple of days to go and chopin time on the led plants they are ready the hps are going to take 1-2 weeks more and i think they will yield more we shall see

I have a question. What is the name brand of the LED light your using. How many watts? are they 1 watt, 3 watt or 5 watt LED's?
Click to expand...

You my harvest more weight with HPS but you will get more potent buds with LED so it's the quantity vs. quality debate which is more important ?
I grow with California Light Works Solar Storm Lights they are a five spectrum 5 watt they consume 320 watts during the veg cycle and have UVB to enhance tric production
IMG_083516.JPG
IMG_075421.JPG
IMG_075719.JPG
IMG_075616.JPG
Click to expand...
 

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