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The 420 Fotographer Collective: Advanced Cannabis Photography

shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014, April 2020
Great shot shottafire. I appreciate that you took the time to write down a few of the shot details for us. Very nicely done.
Yeah I figured I would try and add something unique and different. I wish I had some better glass like a 12 mm f1.8 or 2.0 I’m looking to add some lenses to my collection but I thought since it is advanced photography Thread I would pretend I was advanced... lol
 

Cola Monster

PlantOTM: Sep 2012,Mar 2013,May 2015,Jan 2016,Jul 2017,Aug 2018 - NugOTM: Dec 2013,Nov 2015,Mar 2017,Jan,Jul 2018,Mar 2020- CdelaC: Oct 2016,Mar,Jul,Oct,Nov 2017 - CdelaC 2016 - PhotoOTM: Feb,Mar,Jul 2018,Jul 2019,Jan,Dec 2020 - PhotoOTY 2018,2019
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dr.h00k

Member of the Month: July 2017, October 2019 - Nug of the Month: Nov 2017, Dec 2018 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Nov 2016

shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014, April 2020
...my notifications are spotty on this thread, but sorta' caught up...nice shot's guy's!... :thumb: :adore::adore:...shotta, Ya got an eye with the camera brotha...:eek:...cheerz...:high-five:...h00k...:hookah:...
Thank you brotha Hook. It’s fun coming up with the shot In your mind and then trying to execute said shot how you imagined. Challenging sometimes I think that’s what makes it fun.
 

Tony Urban

Well-Known Member
Going through the archives and notice some very specific blur. Distance blur for lack of a better term. Here is something that some folks may not know about.

Minimum focus distance.

Generally speaking, ALL attached lenses have a minimum focus length, with some minor exceptions. Meaning there is a minimum distance away from the subject you have to be in order for it to be 'in focus'. My 100mm F2.8 Macro lens is pretty good with the ability to be about 8 to 10 inches away from the subject. My 70-200mm F4 is much closer to 1.2 metres minimum distance.

Its written on the lens most of the time. Cell phones and other cameras have the same thing. A camera can focus on the rear part of the cola and the front will never be in focus because its too close. Careful selection of the focus point can solve this issue.

Since I am on the subject it made me think of another issue we haven't discussed. Perhaps those with a greater working knowledge can speak to this...

Lens Sweet Spots

My 100mm Macro lens can go from F2.8 to F32. Most of the cheap kit lenses are F5.6- F32, 18-55mm. But it doesn't mean that the lenses have equal sharpness throughout the range. Meaning at F2.8 there may be weaknesses in the sharpness, chromatic aberration, or lens distortion, when compared to say F8.

At F5.6 in the cheaper Canon kit lens, there may be more distortion and colour abnormalities towards the corners and edges of the image than that of the 100mm when at F2.8. Both on the extremes of its abilities, with differences in the amount of abnormalities, based on glass and build quality.

Sharpness may be noticeably weaker at the extremes. But when you get further into the middle ranges, F8 - F16, you may see these abnormalities dissipate. On the other end of the range, the closer you F32 the more these issues begin to creep back in.

At F5.6 in the macro lens, the quality would be noticeably better than the cheaper lens at F5.6 even though its take at the same F stop. Even with the better macro lens there is a sweet spot where the image quality is best. It's sharper, there is less lens distortion, and you get the best out of the lens.

Glass quality is a big component. Build quality, glass quality, glass coatings, and gears are all a bit more quality in the higher priced lenses. While they limit abnormalities, they are still there, software can deal with some of that. An old program I had, Lightroom maybe, would do corrections based on lens types. It was noticeable. Straightening lines, removing a slight bulge from the kit lens, and other neat tricks.

The technology in the newer mirrorless cameras or even cell phone cameras is pretty impressive. I am almost of the belief that a person could buy a good cell phone and some camera accessories without the need of purchasing a camera. A tripod and handheld camera recording counterbalanced gimble.
 
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shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014, April 2020
Going through the archives and notice some very specific blur. Distance blur for lack of a better term. Here is something that some folks may not know about.

Minimum focus distance.

Generally speaking, ALL attached lenses have a minimum focus length, with some minor exceptions. Meaning there is a minimum distance away from the subject you have to be in order for it to be 'in focus'. My 100mm F2.8 Macro lens is pretty good with the ability to be about 8 to 10 inches away from the subject. My 70-200mm F4 is much closer to 1.2 metres minimum distance.

Its written on the lens most of the time. Cell phones and other cameras have the same thing. A camera can focus on the rear part of the cola and the front will never be in focus because its too close. Careful selection of the focus point can solve this issue.

Since I am on the subject it made me think of another issue we haven't discussed. Perhaps those with a greater working knowledge can speak to this...

Lens Sweet Spots

My 100mm Macro lens can go from F2.8 to F32. Most of the cheap kit lenses are F5.6- F32, 18-55mm. But it doesn't mean that the lenses have equal sharpness throughout the range. Meaning at F2.8 there may be weaknesses in the sharpness, chromatic aberration, or lens distortion, when compared to say F8.

At F5.6 in the cheaper Canon kit lens, there may be more distortion and colour abnormalities towards the corners and edges of the image than that of the 100mm when at F2.8. Both on the extremes of its abilities, with differences in the amount of abnormalities, based on glass and build quality.

Sharpness may be noticeably weaker at the extremes. But when you get further into the middle ranges, F8 - F16, you may see these abnormalities dissipate. On the other end of the range, the closer you F32 the more these issues begin to creep back in.

At F5.6 in the macro lens, the quality would be noticeably better than the cheaper lens at F5.6 even though its take at the same F stop. Even with the better macro lens there is a sweet spot where the image quality is best. It's sharper, there is less lens distortion, and you get the best out of the lens.

Glass quality is a big component. Build quality, glass quality, glass coatings, and gears are all a bit more quality in the higher priced lenses. While they limit abnormalities, they are still there, software can deal with some of that. An old program I had, Lightroom maybe, would do corrections based on lens types. It was noticeable. Straightening lines, removing a slight bulge from the kit lens, and other neat tricks.

The technology in the newer frameless cameras or even cell phone cameras is pretty impressive. I am almost of the belief that a person could buy a good cell phone and some camera accessories without the need of purchasing a camera. A tripod and handheld camera recording counterbalanced gimble.

thanks for this post
 

Tony Urban

Well-Known Member
Going through the archives and notice some very specific blur. Distance blur for lack of a better term. Here is something that some folks may not know about.

Minimum focus distance.

Generally speaking, ALL attached lenses have a minimum focus length, with some minor exceptions. Meaning there is a minimum distance away from the subject you have to be in order for it to be 'in focus'. My 100mm F2.8 Macro lens is pretty good with the ability to be about 8 to 10 inches away from the subject. My 70-200mm F4 is much closer to 1.2 metres minimum distance.

Its written on the lens most of the time. Cell phones and other cameras have the same thing. A camera can focus on the rear part of the cola and the front will never be in focus because its too close. Careful selection of the focus point can solve this issue.

Since I am on the subject it made me think of another issue we haven't discussed. Perhaps those with a greater working knowledge can speak to this...

Lens Sweet Spots

My 100mm Macro lens can go from F2.8 to F32. Most of the cheap kit lenses are F5.6- F32, 18-55mm. But it doesn't mean that the lenses have equal sharpness throughout the range. Meaning at F2.8 there may be weaknesses in the sharpness, chromatic aberration, or lens distortion, when compared to say F8.

At F5.6 in the cheaper Canon kit lens, there may be more distortion and colour abnormalities towards the corners and edges of the image than that of the 100mm when at F2.8. Both on the extremes of its abilities, with differences in the amount of abnormalities, based on glass and build quality.

Sharpness may be noticeably weaker at the extremes. But when you get further into the middle ranges, F8 - F16, you may see these abnormalities dissipate. On the other end of the range, the closer you F32 the more these issues begin to creep back in.

At F5.6 in the macro lens, the quality would be noticeably better than the cheaper lens at F5.6 even though its take at the same F stop. Even with the better macro lens there is a sweet spot where the image quality is best. It's sharper, there is less lens distortion, and you get the best out of the lens.

Glass quality is a big component. Build quality, glass quality, glass coatings, and gears are all a bit more quality in the higher priced lenses. While they limit abnormalities, they are still there, software can deal with some of that. An old program I had, Lightroom maybe, would do corrections based on lens types. It was noticeable. Straightening lines, removing a slight bulge from the kit lens, and other neat tricks.

The technology in the newer mirrorless cameras or even cell phone cameras is pretty impressive. I am almost of the belief that a person could buy a good cell phone and some camera accessories without the need of purchasing a camera. A tripod and handheld camera recording counterbalanced gimble.
I am wandering the empty halls of the member galleries and found a perfect example of a beautiful nug that is too close to the camera, probably a phone, where the phone can only focus on the hand because its the minimum distance away. The hand is in focus and the bud is not. Too bad because this is a nice frosty bud that could have been posted to IG.
full
 

Cola Monster

PlantOTM: Sep 2012,Mar 2013,May 2015,Jan 2016,Jul 2017,Aug 2018 - NugOTM: Dec 2013,Nov 2015,Mar 2017,Jan,Jul 2018,Mar 2020- CdelaC: Oct 2016,Mar,Jul,Oct,Nov 2017 - CdelaC 2016 - PhotoOTM: Feb,Mar,Jul 2018,Jul 2019,Jan,Dec 2020 - PhotoOTY 2018,2019

Dutchman1990

Member of the Month: Dec 2018 - Grow Journal of the Month: Apr 2019 - Grow Journal of the Year: 2019

Amy Gardner

Member of the Month: Mar 2018 - Photo of the Month: Apr, Dec 2018, Apr, Sept 2019, Feb 2020 - Grow Journal of the Month: Nov 2020 - Nug of the Month: Feb 2021
Nice bud portrait shotta :thumb:

what version of Lightroom do you use? I’m trying todecide between the standalone (Classic) on its own, or the “Photography” subscription that includes it.

Just trying to confirm that I won’t be tied to the Cloud before I choose.
I’m pretty sure I can get the subscription package and still just install the Classic version of Lightroom.

They don’t make it easy to control your own workflow do they??
 

Sunnyskies

Photo of the Month: Mar, Oct 2020 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2020 - Member of the Month: Feb 2021

shottafire

Member of the Month: Sept 2013 - Nug of the Month: July 2014, April 2020
Aloha All,

I love this thread. Still got a ways to catch up but I’ll get there. I’d like to get a better camera eventually.. Just gotta talk my other half into it before I pull the trigger :laugh:

For now I just use my iPhone 10. It takes some doing and a bunch of photos but I’ll get some nice ones.




Have a blessed day everyone!
:48:
A good entry level camera that is super versatile and is professional quality is the Sony a6000. It’s what I use. I’m saving to get a macro lens for it then I can take some macros. I just ordered some extension tubes for it which will allow me to get a little tighter macro photos. Your photos look crip brah. Crispy
 

Tony Urban

Well-Known Member
Aloha All,

I love this thread. Still got a ways to catch up but I’ll get there. I’d like to get a better camera eventually.. Just gotta talk my other half into it before I pull the trigger :laugh:

For now I just use my iPhone 10. It takes some doing and a bunch of photos but I’ll get some nice ones.




Have a blessed day everyone!
:48:
Welcome Sunnyskies!

A good camera isn't necessary when considering todays smartphones. At least for those on a budget. There is a lot you can do with a camera phone. There are sites dedicated to phone photography and its pretty amazing. Make yourself comfortable and reach out to the group if you have any questions or curiosities.
 
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