This one has me stumped, yellowing, purpling and curling all at the same time: late flower DWC

[bluter]

I'm running heaters right now, reservoir temperature is 19 celcius water goes to >15 if i turn them off.

roll them cooler. if i had 15 ambient when i ran active rdwc i'd've been ecstatic.. my room temp brought it up though as we ran hps back then exclusive.

we targeted about 17 in the res so it's not like you're extreme or anything. i like it lower than 20. i like it between 15 - 17. cooler water carries more oxygen. but your room temp has to be in the 18 - 22 range. the water temp rises in the buckets before returning.


a constant 20 - 22 at the res is where we saw stuff really starting to hate us. running a cleaner or h202 constant will help clean that up a bit but it gets nervous.

what's your room temp ?

My local cheap H2O2 is actually 3%, holding one right now.

that'll work. maybe run two bottles. and add a ltr of water.

you'll have to drain everything out and use it on it's own. i used to use it with cal-mag alone and ph it or just nothing and ph for good measure.

you can let it run up to 12hrs. clean out the res / buckets and re-feed immediately after. i used to let it run all night actually. i never worried about more than 12hrs

you can run run it as a constant at about half that strength to keep ahead of things. it shouldn't interfere with a live res at that strength, but be watchful, as it works mostly better in sterile. you can run it sterile at that strength no worries.

 

[ShinSeiki]

one last thing make sure everything you run in the future is compatible with a live res. there are cleaners for both sterile and live res approaches. if using the aqua culture you will need to stick with a live res approach.

Out of 4 plants, the two i've kept on tank water have been slow to develop, but are doing great, so next time i'll probably do 3 on tank water and one on regular nutrients, that way i stick to what is working, but also have a (hopefully healthy) control plant to compare.

Again, i know that taking this road makes things extra hard for myself(and for anyone trying to help me), but i have very strong beliefs about sustainability and the kind of world i'll leave behind one day... and i believe aquaponics is a really strong candidate to becoming the template for "full circle" sustainable growing(not just cannabis, think bigger, way bigger). I expect to be working out kinks well into my 5th or 6th grow, but i feel like i have to give back to the growing community, even if all i'm offering is a failed experiment.

Right now the hitlist is as follows
1-Stop the airstones from clogging
2-Provide an optimal environment for beneficial bacteria to colonize and thrive on
3-Change to bio nutrients
4-Better lights
5- NPK Test kit so i can get a better understanding about my water chemistry(any other tests i should add? already have Ph, TDS, NO2 and NO3).

I've been working on an improved airstone design that should hopefully solve 1 and 2, i'll be working on it through the weekend and hopefully i'll move on to prototyping by monday. 3, 4 and 5 are planned purchases. Anything else i should add on here?

 

[FelipeBlu]

I commend you - admirable goals!

 

[bluter]

actually i support your initiative. i sorta thought you were headed to closed loop aquaponic based sustainability. i can only encourage this.

that's why my response.

 

[ShinSeiki]

but your room temp has to be in the 18 - 22 range

what's your room temp ?

Exactly 18-22.

The bacteria i'm counting on to do the heavy lifting is a bit sensitive to H2O2, so running it all the time isn't really an option for me, that said i always have the option to do the 12hrs and then dump the bucket and put fresh bacteria in it. So that's a great tip either way you slice it.

Edit: in fact, it's probably a good idea to work overnight H2O2 baths into my weekly reservoir change routine.

 

[Rexer]

roll them cooler. if i had 15 ambient when i ran active rdwc i'd've been ecstatic.. my room temp brought it up though as we ran hps back then exclusive.

we targeted about 17 in the res so it's not like you're extreme or anything. i like it lower than 20. i like it between 15 - 17. cooler water carries more oxygen. but your room temp has to be in the 18 - 22 range. the water temp rises in the buckets before returning.

Hey bluter, I gotta ask. I know you've got loads more experience, which is why I ask.

I've encountered issues in the past whenever my roots got hit with temps below 17C. While it's been a bit since researching it, I was under the assumption that temps below ~16-17C can cause nutrient uptake issues (and slows growth), and since then I've targeted 18-19C for my reservoir temps.

I wrote all that, then re-read your last line. Fek me, posting anyways as I had been the one who told the OP earlier to raise his root temps above 17c (in other words, I was gonna take full blame if that was wrong advice ).

I think I'm gonna turn my chiller down a bit now

 

[ShinSeiki]

Hey bluter, I gotta ask. I know you've got loads more experience, which is why I ask.

I've encountered issues in the past whenever my roots got hit with temps below 17C. While it's been a bit since researching it, I was under the assumption that temps below ~16-17C can cause nutrient uptake issues (and slows growth), and since then I've targeted 18-19C for my reservoir temps.

I wrote all that, then re-read your last line. Fek me, posting anyways as I had been the one who told the OP earlier to raise his root temps above 17c (in other words, I was gonna take full blame if that was wrong advice ).

I think I'm gonna turn my chiller down a bit now

As far as i'm concerned don't worry about it, we all share what works for us, no more, no less. And for what it's worth, i didn't really notice a difference either way but it was most definitely worth a try.

 

[ShinSeiki]

I commend you - admirable goals!

Ambitious but rubbish, that's my motto ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[ShinSeiki]

Picture of the day, bittersweet to see the sick ones doing so poorly, but the others doing so well.

 

[bluter]

Hey bluter, I gotta ask. I know you've got loads more experience, which is why I ask.

I've encountered issues in the past whenever my roots got hit with temps below 17C. While it's been a bit since researching it, I was under the assumption that temps below ~16-17C can cause nutrient uptake issues (and slows growth), and since then I've targeted 18-19C for my reservoir temps.

depends how much air you are running in the buckets. airstones pump a lot of warm air in to the buckets. the air it pumps is at the temp of the room plus a little.

you want to hit a balance between the two. the 15c i cite is at the main res. not the individual buckets. the temp in the buckets always goes up 2+ - degrees, sometimes as much as 4 or more, before it circulates.

undercurrent systems will run a bit different. i love the undercurrent guys. if i go back to active i think that's where i'm going.

 

[Irishflowergrower]

The more light - the more the plants work to convert that energy to sugars and other organic building blocks. Since they are already stressed from deficiencies - it would probably be a good idea to let them recover some before kicking it up. Despite your lower ppfd from 150W, and that 18/6 might cut into your yield, I would stick with what you’re at for maybe a week.

Love the Animal`s lyrics!

 

[Joshualuck]

@FelipeBlu @Bill284 @Rexer @bluter Sorry to chain-tag you guys like that, but this isn't looking right to me, does this look right to you? That's the Purple Domina, aka plant 1

They look good to me

 

[Hafta]

Ahh sorry I missed the HESI nutrients part, not a brand I'm familiar with.

I'm going to tag our local hydro guru in, @FelipeBlu . I suspect there's more then one thing going on, and he's a genius who will have you on track sooner then I could. It's not that I can't or don't want to, just with the stage of the plants, let's get them back on track asap.

Regarding the PH slowly rising, it's normal. There's a link in my signature for some good reading on hydroponics and PH, it's got a great breakdown on it.

I have been looking for an article on pH like this for quite a while .... many thanks

 

[Rexer]

I have been looking for an article on pH like this for quite a while .... many thanks

No problem. I highly recommend reading the author's other work as well. Most of it is over my head, but his (Manic Botanix) articles are always loaded with gold like that.

 

[Hafta]

I feel the need to jump in here. We maintained a dozen fresh water fish tanks for more than 25 years. All of our tanks had live plants. We bred Angelfish, German Blue Rams ( difficulty level of 10!), Cory Catfish, guppies and more and sold to Fish stores. Our house plants loved the water changes. Naturally, when I began my first hydro ( I had grown outdoors since the seventies) I put an aquarium heater in the res and set it for 75 deg. F. I ended up with roots like Shinseiki's. I found an aquarium product, the Oxydator ( photo below ) that generates ozone in the res from activated peroxide ( 3% works well, the kit provide an activator ceramic). This provides additional oxygen to the roots and prevents bacterial growth. It also allows for higher temps if you add supplemental CO2. My current grow has experienced res temps above 75 deg for the entire six week veg cycle. Below are some root photos from today, day 7 of 12/12.

 

[ShinSeiki]

Daily update, went down and took some pictures. Had a look at plant 3(upper left) with the magnifier and i see no trychomes at all, not even the wimpy and underdeveloped ones i see on plant 1(bottom right). The buds look deflated and the leaves keep curling more and more, this one may be a total loss. Plant 1(bottom right) keeps drying up on the lower leaves, i've been removing them once they get dry and crumbly. Plant 2(top right) seems to be doing great and is really packing on some bud muscle. Question i have now is when should i think about harvesting plant 1? what am i looking for in terms of signs she is ready for a flush?

Overview

Plant 3, severe curling.

Plant 1

Plant 2, proving that slow and steady wins the race

 

[ShinSeiki]

I feel the need to jump in here. We maintained a dozen fresh water fish tanks for more than 25 years. All of our tanks had live plants. We bred Angelfish, German Blue Rams ( difficulty level of 10!), Cory Catfish, guppies and more and sold to Fish stores. Our house plants loved the water changes. Naturally, when I began my first hydro ( I had grown outdoors since the seventies) I put an aquarium heater in the res and set it for 75 deg. F. I ended up with roots like Shinseiki's. I found an aquarium product, the Oxydator ( photo below ) that generates ozone in the res from activated peroxide ( 3% works well, the kit provide an activator ceramic). This provides additional oxygen to the roots and prevents bacterial growth. It also allows for higher temps if you add supplemental CO2. My current grow has experienced res temps above 75 deg for the entire six week veg cycle. Below are some root photos from today, day 7 of 12/12.

Welcome and many thanks! I currently breed Apistogramma Cacatuoides and Redneck MasMasteri's, also did GBR's in the past, dwarf cichlids are my speciality. Can't really sell to stores because the licencing expenses would far outweigh any profit i could take, so i just sell to local hobbyists.

I still think that the fact i defoliated the(now sick) plants i went too far and too late, up untill that point, my roots looked like yours. Also, the plant i didn't defoliate and kept on tank water alone is doing great, far healthier than the others.

I had seen the oxydator before while browsing for aquarium supplies, but my tanks are so heavily planted i rarely have oxygen problems, i'll get on ordering one.

 

[Hafta]

I didn't have the need for one with aquariums ( heavily planted also), hydro roots are a different critter. You won't have to chase temperature with one of these in each res. Good luck with your grow.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I'll jump in here with my quick 2 cents... I'm starting to see a pattern with growers who are doing hydro or coir grows... when plants reach flowering, they show signs of either nutrient deficiency or burn. I'm guessing this is happening mainly with new growers. Some may benefit from instead using carefully mixed soil medium, and then liquid fert mainly nitrogen during watering. I think this is a much more forgiving way to grow. This is my bias as a soil grower. My sense is that plants, generally speaking, do best if you can give them an environment that is close to a natural environment. All plants evolved with soil microbiomes. Keep in mind that soil micro-organisms are essential to nutrient absorption.

 

[ShinSeiki]

Update: Purple Domina isn't getting any better, the root decomposition keeps messing up my water chemistry, now i'm getting slight foaming at the top, indicating a huge ammount of protein in the water. Changed 75% of the water, might have to do this daily untill harvest, hydrozyne arrives tomorrow.