Weffalo's West Coast O.G. First Time Grow: Indoor, Soil, SIP, Auto

They have to do some growing to train them. A day or two makes a difference. Patience.
I think that's the key mate, I'll adopt a more zen mindset and relax... Thank you Stone :D

I've topped up all 3 res with nutes and added silica as I only just managed to get some online, will check before lights off and if nothing is above the canopy i'll wait till tomorrow before touching them again.

Tent is currently running at 23.6c/52% rH or around 0.85kPa - 1kPa throughout the 20 hours of lights on.
 
Lowered the humidity by about 2% again so kPa is now nearer 1k-1.1

Applied LST hooks and it seems to be looking pretty good actually, can see lots of budsites (Shame about the 2 central ones I lost on one plant but thats the way it goes).

Budsites are starting to look fuzzier but I'm guessing a ways to go still.

There is like one damaged leaf out of all the plants, I'm not sure what caused it but as it's singular I feel confident the plants are getting what they need!

Pic dump (Day 28):
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Could be a building Ca deficiency. Just keep an eye on it to be sure sure it doesn't spread.
Thx Azi, will keep an eye on it.

I am meant to be starting bloom nutes in 1 week from now but I know the timeline isn't a blueprint, is there any sign/signal that I should start the flower nutes? I guess with photos you never have this issue as you trigger flowering yourself... something to look forward too :D
 
Could be a building Ca deficiency. Just keep an eye on it to be sure sure it doesn't spread.
My thoughts exactly. Would it hurt to treat immediately to prevent spread?
 
Probably not since plants need a lot of Ca. But it's such an isolated case that maybe it's chasing an issue that's no longer there?
Yeah I think so mate, the leaf is an older one that I've never zoomed in on for pics properly, don't think it's a new issue but I appreciate the insight as always, adding lots of CalMag with every feed including the last so fingers crossed it's okay.

In regards to the nutes, there is signs of flowering already right? We've gone from just the stigma to somewhat fuzzier looking areas? What's tripping me up is the difference between flowering and pre-flower and I realise that seems to be somewhat subjective.

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Res is still another 24 hours or so from being empty at a guess so basically deciding on whether the next feed should be switched up.
 
Res is still another 24 hours or so from being empty at a guess so basically deciding on whether the next feed should be switched up.
Yep, as Carmen says, that's close enough to flower to count it. Basically you are looking for signs that the plant is physically changing, not just throwing a few pistils here and there out of frustration. Once you see clear visible signs of changes like you have in the plant it's time to start focusing on flower nutes. Which is not to say stop the N and other things you gave during veg. The plant needs all of those still in flower, just in slightly lessor amounts, and the P and K needs go up.

I usually change to flower nutes just before flip so the organic nutes have a week or two for the microbes to convert and deliver them. The first 1-2 weeks after flip is usulaly the stretch and then it tranistions into full-on flower where the shoots and roots will essentially stop growing and the plant will put all of its focus into the buds.
 
Yep, as Carmen says, that's close enough to flower to count it. Basically you are looking for signs that the plant is physically changing, not just throwing a few pistils here and there out of frustration. Once you see clear visible signs of changes like you have in the plant it's time to start focusing on flower nutes. Which is not to say stop the N and other things you gave during veg. The plant needs all of those still in flower, just in slightly lessor amounts, and the P and K needs go up.

I usually change to flower nutes just before flip so the organic nutes have a week or two for the microbes to convert and deliver them. The first 1-2 weeks after flip is usulaly the stretch and then it tranistions into full-on flower where the shoots and roots will essentially stop growing and the plant will put all of its focus into the buds.
Very informative, thank you as always Azi, your time and knowledge is very much appreciated.

Wierdly the first week of flower on this schedule says to double the Micro and keep the others the same, with the addition of Bio Bloom, Micro is the mainly N based nutrient so I'm wondering why there is one week of pumping that before reducing it and increasing the P and K.

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Just wondering if there is a well known benefit of doing it this way vs going heavy on the P and K from the getgo? I'm keen to learn reasoning behind things as I definitely won't always be using this nutrient line exclusively it's just the first one I could find cheapily here that is well recommended.
 
Apologies for double post just adding todays pictures, seeing lots of budsites, I had a few dead leaves from either being right at the bottom in the dark or maybe from getting skewered by a carhook.... doh :) removed those and tied down all new areas. The biggest issue with carhooks + SIP containers are 2 inches of dry soil on top does not give a very solid place to put the cocktail sticks, my new buckets do have holes for ties around the top though.

Day 1(ish) of flower (Day 38 since germ):
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After doing some further research I believe the feed schedule advises higher N for this week as it's providing one last boost for stretch... Not sure if this is fully accurate but it's the only explanation I can find behind why I should use a ratio of 2n:1p:1k for this week instead of lowering the nitrogen straight away.

The res are empty/almost empty so I'm going ahead with refilling them with week 6's feed schedule:
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On another note the plants are now really stretching beyond the containers they are in, this is only an issue because I don't currently have a way to tie these down as I omitted drilling tie holes when I made these buckets.
 
After doing some further research I believe the feed schedule advises higher N for this week as it's providing one last boost for stretch...
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On another note the plants are now really stretching beyond the containers they are in, this is only an issue because I don't currently have a way to tie these down as I omitted drilling tie holes when I made these buckets.
You can use binder clips around the rim, and slide a chopstick or something through the handles. The sticks will extend out beyond the rim of the pot allowing you to tie the limbs to a broader base than just the pot itself if you need to.
 
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You can use binder clips around the rim, and slide a chopstick or something through the handles. The sticks will extend out beyond the rim of the pot allowing you to tie the limbs to a broader base than just the pot itself if you need to.
Ahh genius, I will try that with the sticks mate and report back, thank you so much <33 The res's have been filled now and I think we're really cooking with gas in terms of growth speed :D
 
Yeah man you youngsters gotta get your inner hack on, I was making bongs out of plastic baseball bats in Benidorm when you were still looking at the Littlewoods catalogue… 🤣 chopsticks, bulldog clips, paperclips, string what ever is to hand. Pretty much my favourite bit of it all.
Yeah I'm really not someone who is very creative or practical unless it's on a computer... something I'm sure this new hobby will help with :D The addition of holes all around the rim on my new buckets means this won't be a problem for any future grows :D
 
The addition of holes all around the rim on my new buckets means this won't be a problem for any future grows :D
You're better off just going with the binder clips. Less effort and way more flexibility. With the holes you're limited to tie off only where they are placed. With the clips you can slide them around the rim to get the perfect angle.
 
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