Ase's Perpetual Fun With Coco

[Johnnyrotten1]

I remember reading about blackstrap molasses and that a lot of sweeteners are basically molasses and water and some amino acids or something. I can't remember the details off the top of my head. So yes it acts as a sweetener. I can't say it actually makes the bud taste sweeter but my resin production went way up when I started using it, giving the bud more flavor and making it a little less harsh I suppose.

Every grow I've used it I've seen insane amounts of resin. It was a noticeable difference from not using it. I don't want to buy a bottle of water + molasses when I can just do that myself. I'd have a hard time replicating Floralicious+ or Rapidstart or a lot of other nutrients but I have full faith I can make a molasses + water solution .

To answer your question more directly, if you already don't have a bottle of sweetener that you are adding then I would most certainly use it. You can account for the cal/mag in it but I really don't.

How much molasses per gallon ???

 

[Asesino85]

Thanks for the info!
How often do you water in flower? Twice a day?

How much molasses per gallon ???

Tomorrow I'll have my feed schedule post and how I do it. Stay tuned! It should be a worthwhile read for these types of questions!

 

[DobeWan]

I'm pretty sure I have to go to twice daily watering, Ase. My pots feel super light by feed time, and they have that look of salt residue you talked about. Not sure how I'm going to swing it though - getting kids off to school and heading to work doesn't exactly make for mornings with a lot of free time!

 

[Asesino85]

Congrats on the harvest Ase! What seeds are you popping for the next round?

I'm following my tradition of 2 Indicas and 2 Sativas. Also including a seed from Nirvana like always as well. I am equally excited about all 4 of these. Usually I am really looking forward to one more then the others but this time it's even. Maybe they will all 4 look great in veg now instead of one being smaller like my last couple grows. I'm going to get those started right now.

 

[DobeWan]

Another round of really nice choices. Feral flowered Cindy99 a little while back and the colours were fantastic - hope you get similar luck. I had never heard of Lemon Venom but that sounds great too. Big Bud yield, Sensi Star effect, lemon taste - great combo. I had a bunch of lemon DNA strains in the spring and the tastes were fantastic. Citrus and indica belong together!

 

[ShopGrow]

Looks great! We must have been trimming at the same time. I also took some down yesterday. I also hit a wall, smoked a j to help me through it. Once again very impressive.

 

[Asesino85]

Part 1 - Understanding Environment and Base Nutrients

As promised, here is a couple posts on feeding with Coco. This first post will give a general idea of nutrients and what they do. Not too much detail but enough to better understand my schedule in the 2nd post. This is how I do it and what I believe from both research and experience. Everyone has their way that works for them and this mine.

Marijuana needs a number of different things to grow properly. At the very basic level all plants need Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen which come from the fresh air and also from water (H20). They also need light for energy to process everything. It always cracks me up to see people buy a $500-600 setup and then a $90 light. Light is the most important factor. If anything buy nice lights and buy cheap everything else if you are tight on money.

I’m a business guy so if I can spend $300 a light and get an extra ounce per plant than with the $90 light, that’s 20 extra ounces per year (4 plants per cycle and 5 cycles per year). You spend an extra $200 on good lights and you get whatever 20 ounces is worth to you (for every year after that that you keep using the lights, you’ve now spent no extra money on lights and still get the 20 extra ounces per year). I’ll just say $2,000 as a rough estimate. I also feel like I am being conservative saying it’s only an extra ounce you get from cheap lights to good lights. My methods are based off of good lights. Plants that don’t get enough light won’t consume as much and won’t get as big. You can still get good results by following my schedule but in the end you’ll say “But Ase, I did exactly what you said and my plants were ¼ the size”. Well if you use 100W lights and I use 350W lights then that probably has something to do with it.

Temperatures need to be in a range that isn’t inhibiting to the plant. 70-80 degrees is what I aim for. I believe that you can even go 65-85 without causing direct harm. Plants will focus on protecting themselves and “turtling up” if any of these get out of line and we don’t want that until the very end. Environment is the largest factor for me, end of story.

Now we get to some of the nutrients that we can directly control and what they do. I’m not a believer in giving my plants the same thing every single time. I have goals in my feed schedule that I try and stay around in general but you have to know how to read the plant. Coco is hydro and you are in full control. There is no buffer to help you like in soil. You can grow in soil and not know anything about growing. There are plenty of kits you can buy and just follow the directions and you will end up with great stuff. If that’s the method that sounds appealing to you then I suggest finding Doc Bud or anyone from his crew and get started. He also gives you the option to learn what you are doing but if you don’t want to just follow the kit and you will succeed. I like to be way more hands on and to be able to change things at a moment's notice. I also think you will get the best results if you nail a coco grow vs soil. You can achieve the same quality and better yields. You also have a greater chance of things going wrong. The first thing you have to get right is the major elements of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium.

Macro Nutrients

Nitrogen (N) - Nitrogen is a primary elemental support for protein synthesis, leaf development, metabolism and root health. Essentially Nitrogen is responsible for the plants growth. Plants need lots of Nitrogen in Veg and not as much in Flower but they do need Nitrogen the whole time. You really only start cutting Nitrogen about halfway through flower. Light green leaves show lack of Nitrogen and Dark green leaves show excess. The only time you should see yellowing of leaves is from mid flower to the end. Excess Nitrogen at the end will inhibit bud development and quality.

Phosphorous (P) - Phosphorous is especially important for early stage root development, stem strength, resistance to disease, nutrient uptake, flower formation and yield. All 3 major elements do something for the plant the entire time but as you can see Phosphorous is important for things in flowing. When stems and leaves are turning purple you can tell they aren’t getting enough Phosphorous. This usually starts showing week 4. Sugars are accumulating and ready to be burned up to make some fat colas but there isn’t enough Phosphorous in the plant to allow the photosynthesis to take place to burn them up (this can also be caused by not enough light).

Potassium (K) - Potassium helps with nutrient uptake and all the other basics like the other 2 do but it’s main purpose is for disease resistance and structure. Those two things kind of go hand in hand but if you notice your stems being flimsy and your plant not being structured very strong then you are likely short on Potassium. In a way it’s kind of like the plant's immune system. Plants that are short on Potassium are weak and will produce less bud and are more prone to diseases. Without a strong structure your plants can’t pack on the weight they want to.

Calcium/Magnesium - These are technically not macro nutrients but they are just as important as the other 3 when growing in coco. Soil already has a lot of Calcium and Magnesium in it already but coco has nothing. Every feed needs a good base of Cal/Mag to make up for this. Calcium is the most essential thing for the absorption of minerals into the roots. Without it you can dump whatever you want down your plants but your plants won’t consume hardly any of it. Magnesium is responsible for the movement of minerals throughout the plant so the two work hand in hand to move nutrients from the coco to the top of the plant. When leaves yellow at the bottom it’s because Magnesium is moving them from the old growth to the new.

I won’t go into detail about the other nutrients because I don’t add additional amounts of them. They are all usually included in the your base nutes in small amounts. Silicon, sulfur, iron, zinc, molybdenum, copper, boron, manganese, cobalt and chlorine. Some people supplement their plants with Silicon for strength but I’ve found if you get the Potassium right, you don’t really need to.

You can see that a plant really needs all of these different elements at different amounts, at different times throughout the life cycle. Just like humans do, we don't give babies the same food we give elderly people (and everything between). Some people are sensitive to gluten or dairy and plants can be the same way because of their genetics. It's why you have to be able to read the plants. Things like the Lucas Formula are a very simple way to make sure the plant gets at least all of these throughout it’s whole life. The problem is that it leaves too much excess of some and not enough of others at critical times. It is a great thing to try once, especially to see when plants typically show signs of when they need more or less of something. In my next post I will have my feed schedule and you can see the boosts in N-P-K that I do and what I mean. If you use the Lucas Formula or what the bottles recommend then you will see issues at those points in flower. The veg stage is way more forgiving and you rarely will have issues unless you are really short on Cal/Mag.

All of these things have to work together in harmony. Lights give the plant energy. Environment allows the plant to grow and thrive. Nutrients supplement the plant with what it needs to make it all happen. I would recommend if you are a Coco grower to really spend time researching nutrients. It’s a blank medium so how can you know what you are doing if you don’t? Whether you buy a 2 part system or a 3 part system or a 10 part system for feeding, you will notice when you line them all up that the same ingredients are in all of them together. That’s because it’s all the same stuff. Marketing is what gets everyone confused and some companies have a better schedule than others but really you are in control and you need to know how to manipulate them. If that sounds like too much then go back to soil. You will not have success like you want to in Coco. With that being said, onto how I manipulate my nutrients for my setup!

 

[Asesino85]

Part 2 - How I Feed & Water

People don't think about how their setup will affect feeding until it's too late most of the time. I'm not referring to the actual feeding itself either, I'm talking equipment. Pot size and type, lights, air circulation and humidity all effect how much your plants will consume. In post #1 I think I emphasized enough that good lights are essential, but if you use small lights then your plants wont consume as much requiring less feeding. Humidity can affect how much the plants consume in the roots vs the moisture in the air. Even something like mixing in perlite will give better aeration but require more waterings.

The first thing really to think about though is what kind of pots you want to use and how big. I really enjoy smartpots as I think they work perfectly with Coco. Both promote oxygen and root growth which speeds everything up and makes plants larger. Coco is hydro so it gives it more of a hydro aspect as well. I also have gone with 3 gallon pots for that reason as well. Coco is hydro. You could grow really large plants in a 1 gallon pot if you wanted to water it 10 times a day. For me and most Coco growers, 3 gallon pots are what you need. It's a good size for efficient watering while still getting massive plants.

The next thing to think about is do I add perlite? Maybe something else? Just Coco? So many opinions on the matter but some of the best Coco growers on here have all come to the same basic conclusion. Perlite is not necessary in Coco. Too me it allows the Coco to dry out way to fast. Straight Coco in a 3 gallon smart pot is what I go with. The only thing I add is about an inch layer of hydroton on the bottom of the pot. I can reuse it and it's easy to get out. You could do perlite but it gets messy, especially if you want to re-use the coco. I'm all about efficiency so hydroton it is. In grows without the hydroton on the bottom I've noticed in the corners of the smartpots can build up with water and the roots on the bottom were brown and kind of sad looking. When I cut a plant down the other day I had masses of white roots that were at the bottom. It'd be so easy to bottom feed them if I ever needed to with how nice it looked, kinda like pure hydro. That's another topic but it helps with drainage at the bottom and the roots have looked whiter and healthier in grows I've used it.

Lastly, we need to work our way backwards now that we know how we are growing and in what. Because a 3 gallon pot is the final pot, we really only need to perform one transplant during the plants life. I use a plastic pot about 3/4 the size of a solo cup that is meant for herbs and stuff. A solo cup with drainage holes works just fine. It's big enough to get a decent root mass going and small enough that it will allow a root mass to form and hold onto all the coco for easy transplant and less stress. If you transplant and the Coco falls all over the place and the roots are loose and small, then you've just caused stress. So I go from germination bag, to small plastic planting cup to 3 gallon smart pot. Hydroton on the bottom and straight Coco for the rest.

All of this talk and still nothing on mixing nutrients! Well here we go! I just wanted to reiterate how important all of this stuff is before you even get to think about feeding. Without further ado, the schedule and nutrients.

The Lineup

You cannot grow in Coco without a PH meter and a PPM meter. You might get lucky for a while but they are essential to know what's going in and what's coming out of your feeds. The right range I have found for Coco is a PH of 5.8-6.2 going in. Plants absorb minerals at different PH ranges and for Coco this is the sweet spot. I use the PPM meter to measure how potent the feed is and also to measure drainage. I get a cup and collect runoff from a plant and if my PPMs coming out are really high, the plant is likely showing nute burn. It means there is a lot of excess salts from the nutrients that the plant isn't taking because it's already stuffed of it and beginning to lock everything out.

If you were tight on a budget you could get rid of Dry Koolbloom, FloraKleen and maybe the Great White. I don't recommend it but you still will get nice results without them. You could also not use the Grow bottle in the GH Flora Series but I find it easier to manipulate the N-P-K ratios with it. The rest is all pretty key.

Micro, Grow and Bloom are your base nutes. This could be an A & B from another company but they will have different N-P-K ratios most likely. That's okay, you can still follow my schedule. You just would have to adjust for the ratios on the bottles. Cal/Mag is essential for Coco and PH Up and Down as well. You also need a bloom boost of some sort in flower and I go with liquid Koolbloom. You will not get great results if you do not boost the plants during this time. the bud just doesn't get quite as dense.

Rapidstart is amazing for root growth. Floralicious+ gives the plants essential acids and microbes for breaking things down making it easier and faster to consume. The unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses is a sweetener and really is an extremely inexpensive one if you look at what other bottled premade stuff costs.

The Schedule

When I germinate seeds I make the same mixture ratio that I make for the seedling phase feedings and dunk a paper towel in it. I squeeze the paper towel out so it is damp, put the seeds in it and seal it in a plastic bag. I then wrap the bag in a dishtowel and put on my DVR or top of my fridge. It is warm there and helps them germinate. When the root has popped about 1/2" I plant in the small plastic pot.

I also pre-treat (Soak and then drain) any coco that I use with a soaking of 1-1-1 N-P-K, Rapidstart and a PPM of around 350 with cal-mag being about 150 (this is the mixture I use for dunking the towel for gemination). Always pretreat your coco and soak it. Coco is a medium with nothing in it. If you give your plant nothing it will not like it! This is one of the most common problems when transplanting or even from growing the seed from the beginning. The plant needs calcium and it can't get any unless the coco has some sort of nutes loaded into it. If using new Coco I would wash it with water and rinse it a couple times and then charge it with nutes. I also sprinkle a little Great White on the roots when I transplant to help the roots not miss a beat when transplanting and hopefully causing little stress when transplanting.

I water with nutes everyday and I usually mix up 5 gallons each time and then use that to water for a couple days. My water is a ppm of 34, which is great. I fill my 5 gallon bucket with water and then add cal-mag until my PPM is 200. After that I add nutes to hit the PPM for the week using the N-P-K ratios listed in the table. These ratios are based on what the plant needs at given points in the 9 week flower lifecycle. Be careful because in the later stages with higher feedings the PH will drop when sitting in the buckets overnight. If my plants start showing signs of nutrient burn then I usually immediately drop the feed a couple hundred PPMs and use a 1-1-1 N-P-K ratio. I do put in about the twice the feed when I do this to give it a mini flush and the equal N-P-K allows it to choose what it needs to get back on track.

The best way to determine how much to water is to pick your whole plant up right after you give it a full watering (with some drainage coming out the bottom). Use that as your gauge for how much the plant needs. If your plants are light when you pick them up and you are seeing salt buildup then you likely need to be feeding them more times a day then you are. In veg I usually am giving them just enough water until it is dripping out the bottom but not running out the bottom. In flower I pretty much am just giving them 1/2 gallon at a time, twice a day. I do get about 10% runoff with these ones each time.

The N-P-K ratios I used are reflective of my explanations of N-P-K in the prior post. Balanced growth really early on and you want to build to aggressive growth at the end of the veg cycle. Then you want to balance everything out to give the plant whatever it wants in transition and then you want boost it for bigger yields. Nitrogen early on for growth but cut late so the plant stops trying to get bigger. Phosphorous building in flower until the end to promote bigger flower. Potassium boosted right after stretch to get the plant to harden and get ready for large colas. Dry Koolbloom at the end really helps the buds burst to their full potential.

Lastly you have to know how to calculate N-P-K. Here is an example I did with a rough estimate at the end. You have to take what is on the bottle and multiply it by how many ML you are putting in. Since I use 5 gallon buckets you learn that about 20ML of Cal-Mag gets me to around 200 ppm. As I need more and more PPMs I just increase the base nutes in the ratios they need (or add Koolbloom if in the right time frame). I do a lot of rough math for this and am rarely ever exact but you don't need to be exact. Just try to get in the ballpark. Just keep in mind Cal-Mag and some additives have some nitrogen so look at every bottle for ratios. At the end divide by 100 or a number that is divisible by all 3 and you get your ratio.

Any follow up questions feel free to ask. There is a lot of information I wanted to put together and I'm still not sure if I covered everything but I think I did! Please don't reply quote these long threads as they will make super long posts!

 

[Pennywise]

Good info Ase, look forward to part #2

 

[Asesino85]

Good info Ase, look forward to part #2

Thanks PW! Glad I allocated a whole morning to this as I wrote a lot but I think I've covered most of what people should know for coco and understanding it. Part #2 is up!

 

[Pennywise]

Good tutorial, ive saved both parts to my notes. I stopped using perlite in coco after my first run. I also always pre charge my coco before use and i go very heavy on calmag when i precharge. Coco will bind calmag at a given rate. I want to allow the coco to bind as much calmag as it can hold before adding plants or starting any kind of feeding. It will save tons of problems later.

 

[chappy]

Very interesting read and some really great points/techniques throughout. Coco is certainly a different beast than soil. If you are growing in coco for the first time and read the above, you should really pay close attention as it will likely save you a lot of fussing around. One thing that I have also found very helpful with coco is to do with seedlings. Coco retains a lot of moisture. Especially when you first plant a germinated seed and that little seedling is not drinking much water. At this stage it is extremely easy to over water and end up with stunting and potentially damping off. I use perlite or fine growstone mixed 40/60 with pre-charged coco for seedlings and start in those small styrofoam coffee cups (holes punched in all sides and bottom). With more frequent watering/drying cycles you build root mass quicker. I then transplant to a 1 litre ecopot so there is an extra transplant but I don't find that my plants miss a beat. Building a root mass early and quickly seems to be the difference between plants that grow big quickly and those that lag a bit at the start and never quite reach their true potential. Assuming you are on point with your nutrients.

 

[Asesino85]

Very interesting read and some really great points/techniques throughout. Coco is certainly a different beast than soil. If you are growing in coco for the first time and read the above, you should really pay close attention as it will likely save you a lot of fussing around. One thing that I have also found very helpful with coco is to do with seedlings. Coco retains a lot of moisture. Especially when you first plant a germinated seed and that little seedling is not drinking much water. At this stage it is extremely easy to over water and end up with stunting and potentially damping off. I use perlite or fine growstone mixed 40/60 with pre-charged coco for seedlings and start in those small styrofoam coffee cups (holes punched in all sides and bottom). With more frequent watering/drying cycles you build root mass quicker. I then transplant to a 1 litre ecopot so there is an extra transplant but I don't find that my plants miss a beat. Building a root mass early and quickly seems to be the difference between plants that grow big quickly and those that lag a bit at the start and never quite reach their true potential. Assuming you are on point with your nutrients.

Totally agree with all of that. I have gotten rid of all my perlite though. I've had good results treating that week like soil and letting it lean towards dryish. The roots go searching a little more for water that way and I get good root balls. This along with Rapidstart is all I need. As you suggested, it is the only time you can overwater and hinder a plant in coco so you have to have some way of helping that.

 

[DobeWan]

Big thanks for the detailed guide Ase!

I'm sure I'll have questions as I digest, but already I find myself checking my planned week 5 vs. your recommended schedule to see where I land. I haven't added anything to my nutrient mix yet and won't in this grow, but that doesn't mean I can't check against your ratio and PPM recommendations.

The handwritten nute schedule you posted is of course what I fed week 3, and what I planned to feed week 5. I did not feed KoolBloom last week and came in closer to the N level/ratio you recommend, and I did notice now some impact on the red/purple stems/petioles. If my math is right, the ratio I planned this week compares pretty closely to your week 5 recommendation of 13 (it works out to 1:3.3:3.2). The nutrient mixture I made is in a 14L bucket at 1125 PPM. You recommend 750 PPM, so I basically just need to dilute my mixture with 2 parts nute solution, 1 part plain water to hit 750 PPM. So that's exactly what I'll be doing. I'm still going to go 3 days nutes / 1 day plain water since I haven't yet figured out watering twice daily!

 

[Asesino85]

Flower Day 11

I won't start the official count of the babies until a majority of them have sprouted. Like the Nutrients post, I hope to capture some good pictures over the next few weeks and do a how I train post. I really like the way most of plants turn out and the shape they have. As soon as these girls fill out there small pots with roots I'll transplant and wait for them to aggressively grow and then top them. It'll be a week or so before that happens. I planted these girls in pre-treated Coco yesterday afternoon after all 4 had sprouted from germination again. I've never had one not sprout using my germination style.

Nirvana's Ice is already out of the gate. I've only got one seed and with it's great start I might clone it for the future. I am really looking forward to this strain and I've had good luck with both Nirvana seeds and anything that is crossed with Northern Lights. Looks like I have the marker flipped around backwards but the ICE is the blue one.

I don't think I've ever shown a picture of my drying tent but last rounds girls have been in there for 5 days. Goal is a dry time of a week and the humidity in the tent is in the high 60s so actually right where I want it. I use a mini dehumidifier to slowly get the tent to the mid 50s or low 60s in high RH and a fan is constantly blowing for air movement. It smells lovely in this tent. Have I mentioned how much I love bungee cords? Yes I have, but they are so handy for so many different uses.

Lastly I think I have some bad news. I suspected it so not surprised, but when I accidentally broke an arm off the Cali OG and then trained it hard to get it symmetrical, I think I caused too much stress. I'm having a hard time judging but I see hairs popping out of places but it looks way too familiar to the last plant that hermed. This one I can say is 100% my fault. I'll wait a few days still just in case I am wrong but I think I'm right. It might just have really protruding pre-flowers and is still growing pretty well. I've yet to see any clumps of pollen sacks yet so I'll give it a few more days. Let's hope I'm wrong.

The two Purples seem to be doing crazy good and are for sure females. Hairs are popping out everywhere. The little one is showing no signs of sex yet and is stretching a little more than it has been. I still need a good weeks worth of stretching out of it or I might just get rid of it. That would leave me with just two massive plants for this grow but I actually think that might be kind of fun. I've got plenty of seeds of the two that aren't doing so hot so no biggie. I'll know what I am looking at in about a week and what I might get rid of. At this point I run a decent amount of cycles and i'm not messing around with plants that do not want to cooperate. I will say that all my plants in the flower tent are a very nice green and showing no signs of any problems. Very happy with their health at this point. The crazy part is usually my best stretch is over the next week. These girls are already pretty big for only being halfway through stretch. If they get too big this grow I'll look at shortening the veg time a week next time.

4 Days ago

Today - My suspected herm is the Cali OG Kush in the front right. Purple Kush back right. Purple Envy back left and the Lost Coast OG front left.

 

[Pennywise]

Hopefully you get lucky and the plant doesnt hermie on you.

 

[Asesino85]

Hopefully you get lucky and the plant doesnt hermie on you.

It's my own fault this time. I'm 99% sure it's going to herm. Hope I get lucky too but I probably deserve this one

 

[Pennywise]

They'll take a ton of abuse

 

[Asesino85]

Big thanks for the detailed guide Ase!

I'm sure I'll have questions as I digest, but already I find myself checking my planned week 5 vs. your recommended schedule to see where I land. I haven't added anything to my nutrient mix yet and won't in this grow, but that doesn't mean I can't check against your ratio and PPM recommendations.

The handwritten nute schedule you posted is of course what I fed week 3, and what I planned to feed week 5. I did not feed KoolBloom last week and came in closer to the N level/ratio you recommend, and I did notice now some impact on the red/purple stems/petioles. If my math is right, the ratio I planned this week compares pretty closely to your week 5 recommendation of 13 (it works out to 1:3.3:3.2). The nutrient mixture I made is in a 14L bucket at 1125 PPM. You recommend 750 PPM, so I basically just need to dilute my mixture with 2 parts nute solution, 1 part plain water to hit 750 PPM. So that's exactly what I'll be doing. I'm still going to go 3 days nutes / 1 day plain water since I haven't yet figured out watering twice daily!

Thanks Dobe! I'm glad I got the brain turning at least for you on what is going on and measuring it all out. There will be weeks where the Lucas Formula and my feeds intersect on ratios. I water as soon as I get home from work at 2pm and once at like 10pm (lights on from noon to midnight in flower, 6AM to midnight in veg). Since my nutes are sitting in buckets I can just check the PH and feed, making it a pretty fast process. I also don't always get it right at the times I said. Sometimes life happens and I can only feed once or not at the right times. It's not a big deal.

At lights off the plants don't absorb as much. The humidity goes up a bit and temperature down causing less absorption from the roots and more through the leaves. They don't need to be fed 12 hours apart from each other. Even if you fed once when you get home from work and once before you go to sleep (likely 6-7 hours inbetween) you would be fine. Penny for your thoughts for when you try my ways out next run.

I think because I feed everyday I lower the PPMs a bit. If you use just plain water for a feeding then starting your nutes a bit higher is ok. Basically you are feeding strong and then kind of diluting in the Coco itself when you dump the regular water. I just prefer to not worry about all that jumping around and keep it at a nice even PPM both in and out.

 

[Asesino85]

Update #2 for the Day

I went down and investigated the Cali OG/Haze more carefully and did indeed find a few nodes where there looked to be bunches of soon to be balls forming. I wasn't going to waste my time with this anymore. I've seen this once and it's a hermie. I think in my post when I broke the branch I said this was turning into an experiment. Experiment failed.. lol. On another note I'd rather just get rid of the Lost Coast OG because it is so small so I kind of hope I end up with a reason to. It would give my other two girls that are gorgeous the whole tent to themselves. I've always wanted to do 1 or 2 plants in a tent and maybe I will get to by accident.

This is not recommended but I defoliated the Lost Coast OG. It's right in the middle of stretch in flower (which I would never do) but it needed it badly and like I said earlier, I kind of hope it gives me a reason to get rid of it. I also took off some small nodes and branches at the bottom already wasting energy. So this is now kind of an experiment as well. Either way the Purple Envy and Purple Kush are going to be huge. Spread the Purple Kush out a bit now that there is more room. Still expecting way more stretch. Hopefully the middle nodes will push now that they have plenty of light and the main ones will slow down.

New tent