Blue Dream Clones Sea Of Green Grow Journal

Blue Dream Sea of Green with Clones

The cuttings I took last week are in a mix 6/3/1 coco, loam based potting-on soil and perlite and seem to have barely noticed being butchered

blue-dream-clone-sea-of-green.jpg


I will wait another week then up-pot into 3/4 Gal [2.8L] pots and flip to 12/12
I am aiming for one main cola per plant so as you can see, I didn't pinch the tips out
The potting soil in the mix means I don't need to worry about feeding tender roots, just pre-soaked it in pH6.0 water and misted with a little seaweed extract
I love Sea of Green grows but rarely get round to bothering so although it's just another run, I must admit I'm quite excited to see what Blue Dream can do, it looks like an excellent candidate plant

Blue Dream Mother Plant

blue-dream-mother-plant.jpg


Well a lookie here - it's just gone 4:20
:ganjamon:
 
OK, so now I'm confused - the clones are trying to flower but I haven't flipped them yet??
They aren't vegging as they should be at all after two weeks
They are not looking good, may be forced to ditch them and start afresh with some Bruce Banner seeds
I can't be doing with scrappy grows, not worth the cost or effort
Just the way it goes sometimes... mixed up seeds? Possibly
 
OK, so now I'm confused - the clones are trying to flower but I haven't flipped them yet??
They aren't vegging as they should be at all after two weeks
If the mother plant was a photoperiod then so are the clones. And the clones will be the same age which means if the mother was mature enough to flower then the clones are also mature enough.

Let us know whether the mother was a photoperiod. I did not see it in the previous msgs. And let us know the light schedule. There are ways to get around this minor problem and people can give you their ideas but we would have to know the amount of light and dark if that plant is photo.
 
Over the past several years I have had my Blue Dream plants, all clones that could be traced back to a seed planted in late 2017, start to 'look' like they were going into flower. They were showing a pre-flower of a stigma/pistil at each newer node as usual. However, the inter-nodel length kept getting shorter so it gave the appearance that flowers were developing. This happened twice.

The first time I changed the light schedule from 14.5 hours lights on to 18 hours on. Nothing seemed to change for about a month.

Then I watched a couple of things happen. One was that very young cuttings that were either still developing roots or had just started actively growing roots went into a revegetating growth with the newer leaves having just one finger with smooth edges, etc. After a month or so they returned to normal. The older & larger clones slowly went back to normal without any signs of revegetating. The distance between nodes increased back to normal.

The second time there was not much of anything I could do. The lights were already on for 18 hours so I did not see much point making any changes there. I waited and then the older plants quickly started to increase the internode distance for no apparent reason and returned to a normal look. Had fewer cuttings this time and as soon as those developed roots they went right into revegetating and then started growing fast.

I did put a couple of plants on the patio in light shade or dappled sun and those plants also showed signs of revegetating. Left them out there to flower as usual in the late summer.

Only the Blue Dream went through these interesting changes.. Any of the other plants/strains that had pre-flowers did not seem to be affected by whatever caused this reaction in the BD plants.

Yesterday I started wondering if these changes back and forth was a result of changes in fertilizer brands and feeding schedules.
 
Over the past several years I have had my Blue Dream plants, all clones that could be traced back to a seed planted in late 2017, start to 'look' like they were going into flower. They were showing a pre-flower of a stigma/pistil at each newer node as usual. However, the inter-nodel length kept getting shorter so it gave the appearance that flowers were developing. This happened twice.

The first time I changed the light schedule from 14.5 hours lights on to 18 hours on. Nothing seemed to change for about a month.

Then I watched a couple of things happen. One was that very young cuttings that were either still developing roots or had just started actively growing roots went into a revegetating growth with the newer leaves having just one finger with smooth edges, etc. After a month or so they returned to normal. The older & larger clones slowly went back to normal without any signs of revegetating. The distance between nodes increased back to normal.

The second time there was not much of anything I could do. The lights were already on for 18 hours so I did not see much point making any changes there. I waited and then the older plants quickly started to increase the internode distance for no apparent reason and returned to a normal look. Had fewer cuttings this time and as soon as those developed roots they went right into revegetating and then started growing fast.

I did put a couple of plants on the patio in light shade or dappled sun and those plants also showed signs of revegetating. Left them out there to flower as usual in the late summer.

Only the Blue Dream went through these interesting changes.. Any of the other plants/strains that had pre-flowers did not seem to be affected by whatever caused this reaction in the BD plants.

Yesterday I started wondering if these changes back and forth was a result of changes in fertilizer brands and feeding schedules.
Interesting. OK, I'll give them bit longer and see how they shape up
 
Since I'm using small 3L pots for the Blue Dream clones, and the Jack Herer is coming down soon, I decided to pop a couple of Bruce Banner autos to make sure my space is full [8 clones, 2 autos]
Took the beans from the fridge and soaked them overnight in 1% H2O2 boiled water, then put in folded tissue in a CD case on top of my amp which is a constant 24°C
This morning they both have 1/4" tap roots so in they go to a fibre pot of 5/3/2 coco/loam based potting soil/perlite
Standing them in tepid pre-boiled water to effectively water from the bottom, drive the tap root down
I will start a separate Bruce Banner grow journal once they break ground

bruce-banner-seeds-sprouting.jpg


bruce-banner-starter-pots.jpg


:hookah:
 
With clones, do you feed tenderly as they are young roots or treat it same as the mother plant going into flower?
I will occasionally add a nutrient or a balanced fertilizer to the water that I will be using but usually my answer to the question is "Nope". My cuttings or very young rooted cuttings will end up in small containers of the same soil mix that all the plants are grown in.

If you have those cuttings in coco or peat then it should just be a matter of keeping the medium moist and occasionally wet. To me this would be just like when some of us put the cuttings into those contraptions that spray water on the base of the stem and transplant once there is a nice solid mass of young roots.

The root system might not be developed enough to support what you are trying to do.

I flipped as soon as I saw new growth and fed them a little but they look hungry, slightly yellowing [prob N?]
Not sure I am properly following but are you saying that the cutting had started roots and soon after started showing some new leaf or stem growth and that is when you put them under a 12 hour on and 12 off schedule?

If so, I am thinking that there are not enough root system available to support the existing stems and leaves plus any new growth. This includes all the existing and new roots which also need nutrients.

If it was me then my recommendation to myself would be to use a liquid seaweed or Potassium for several days and then try a liquid nitrogen, usually from a fish source. The Potassium should help with the overall plant health especially how it is going to react to its own enzymes, proteins, etc. It should slow down the yellow development. Then I would try the Nitrogen, gently of course, since Nitrogen encourages new growth with every part of the plant that is green and if the roots system is not ready it cannot support the plant. Just a bit of Nitrogen to help with photosynthesis.
 
I will occasionally add a nutrient or a balanced fertilizer to the water that I will be using but usually my answer to the question is "Nope". My cuttings or very young rooted cuttings will end up in small containers of the same soil mix that all the plants are grown in.

If you have those cuttings in coco or peat then it should just be a matter of keeping the medium moist and occasionally wet. To me this would be just like when some of us put the cuttings into those contraptions that spray water on the base of the stem and transplant once there is a nice solid mass of young roots.

The root system might not be developed enough to support what you are trying to do.


Not sure I am properly following but are you saying that the cutting had started roots and soon after started showing some new leaf or stem growth and that is when you put them under a 12 hour on and 12 off schedule?

If so, I am thinking that there are not enough root system available to support the existing stems and leaves plus any new growth. This includes all the existing and new roots which also need nutrients.

If it was me then my recommendation to myself would be to use a liquid seaweed or Potassium for several days and then try a liquid nitrogen, usually from a fish source. The Potassium should help with the overall plant health especially how it is going to react to its own enzymes, proteins, etc. It should slow down the yellow development. Then I would try the Nitrogen, gently of course, since Nitrogen encourages new growth with every part of the plant that is green and if the roots system is not ready it cannot support the plant. Just a bit of Nitrogen to help with photosynthesis.
They were started in cup sized pots until roots came out of the bottom - at that stage, yes, I just kept them damp
Put into larger pots and gave seaweed + weak 5-4-3 feed, and flipped after about 1 week
There is reasonably good growth, only it's a bit lime so I figure they can handle some stronger feed

I've done similar before; the two weeks transition to flower should be enough time for the roots to build, right?
The question really is are the roots of cuttings fragile like seedlings, or more robust like the mother plant?
I'm thinking they are actually more robust so can probably handle a stronger regime more quickly
 
i usually feed my cuttings a little more aggressive than a seedling. i normally start the cutting at seedling strength or just under. smaller cuttings you treat more gentle, but i normally take a fair sized one.
 
smaller cuttings you treat more gentle, but i normally take a fair sized one.
That could be it. Most of the time any cuttings I take are smaller than what I usually see in messages here.

Then I also take more than I should and end up having to keep them growing slow until I am able to plan on room for them in the flowering tent. I sometimes will deliberately keep them small in 3X3 seedling pots for a couple of months and when I can figure the space will show up is when I resume a more generous watering and feeding schedule.
 
With clones, do you feed tenderly as they are young roots or treat it same as the mother plant going into flower?
I flipped as soon as I saw new growth and fed them a little but they look hungry, slightly yellowing [prob N?]
@Bill284 @SmokingWings @bluter @Emilya Green
Morning Amigo. :ciao:
With baby clones I give them B1 or kelp with Superthrive and Roots Excellerator Gold.
Mixed in a mild solution with nutrients, and water.
Gradually introducing stronger nutrients.
Until I reach full strength , asap.
Not sure about the other question?




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284 😎
 
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