GG's First Real Grow, DWC, Lowlife Autos and Nightshade

GrumpyGrower

New Member
Hello World

About me: Skip if you don't care

This is my first serious attempt at growing. I've grown several batches over the last 5 years, but I never approached them too seriously. I learned what a DWC is, set some up, followed basic instructions and got a decent yield each time with some bag seed. I am now ready for a serious attempt, and it seems like the more attentive I try to be, the more problems I have.

When I was a teenager I met a guy who grew with an ebb and flow set up, a strain he called Garlic Bud. He taught me the basic concepts of hydroponics and cloning, and gave me the task of taking care of his plants during his trips out of town. I followed his instructions and never screwed up his grow. This was pretty easy since all I had to do was measure out some nutes and do basic daily maintenance checks of the equipment. This was before the internet. He pressed upon me many times how valuable the information he taught me was. We eventually lost touch but I still remember and use many of the little tips he taught me.

Years later I discovered overgrow.org, set up some DWC tubs and threw some bag seed in them. As I said, the yields were decent and I got some valuable experience, but I never put too much effort into it. After a few batches I gave up on it, simply because growing didn't fit my lifestyle at the time. I never feel as at peace with myself as I do when I am in my garden starring at my girls, so it has been at the back of my mind to start growing again.

I now find myself in a perfect situation for growing. I live alone. I am single. I never have friends or family come visit. I have a landlord that has never once in 5 years knocked on my door. I have a closet with decent space that is well away from any sort of maintenance that might need done in the apartment. I do not like gossip. I am good at keeping a secret.

So I figure now is the perfect time to explore my passion for growing. One of the reasons I am more serious about it now is that I ordered some pro seeds. I figure if I am gonna spend money on grade A girls, I owe it to them and myself to do the best job I can.

Ironically now that I am approaching this grow with serious effort, I am having more problems than ever. I am finding my garden to be a source of frustration rather than serenity. Most of the frustration so far has stemmed from my lack of experience and foresight. I bought tubs that were too small and tried to save money by buying the cheapest materials to work with. I have learned that cutting corners to save money ends up costing you more in the end.


My Grow:
DWC
I prefer a ScrOG grow
I ordered 30 seeds from lowlife; 2 mix packs (autos)
I ordered 5 fem Nightshade seeds from Barneys
I ordered standard 3 part GH nutes
I ordered a digital PH meter
I ordered a digital EC meter
My available grow space is 4.5 X 4.5
I have two 150wt HPS “area” lights
I have 3 23wt CPF lights (blue spec)
I am using 4 gallon clear plastic totes
I use one 6wt air pump and two 1 inch airstones per tote
My temps range from 74f to 86f
The closet has a vent blowing in from my central air unit
I have two 8inch fans, more available
I use tap water, starts with a PH of 6.8ish, 300ish PPM


Preparation

Even though I have some experience and understand the concepts of hydroponics, I decided to watch every grow video I could find. These include:

I grow chronic
Seemorebuds series
Ready Set Grow series
A mislabeled hydro grow video from Hans (dunno the title)
Jorge Cervantes UG 1-3
Just say grow

Of course none of these helped me as much as Roseman's thread, as it is specific to the type of setup I use. (almost) Roseman also has a way of explaining things so that I am able to catch onto little nuances that I missed from the DVD's


Closet:

I did very little to prepare the closet. I wiped the walls down with a bleach solution. I steam cleaned the carpet with a solution to discourage fungus. I did not spray for bugs. I lined the floor with plastic garbage bags. I mounted the HPS lights onto the wall (they are designed to be mounted onto a barn) about 3 ft off the floor. I do not plan to use the entire space for growing. The tubs are lined along the wall under the lights. There is room for 4 tubs under the lights. Each tub has about 1 sqft growing area to fill in, and another 2 ft to grow up to the light. I lined the grow area with foil cos I am poor.

Reservoirs:
I drilled holes into the bottoms and inserted a drain tube, I use medical grade tubing meant to carry oxygen, simply because I have tons of it. This is a bit bigger than standard aquarium line so it drains a bit better. I used hot glue to seal the holes. I have used hot glue in the past for seals and to keep airstones in place. It's presents in the water has not seemed to affect the grow. I have no hydro store near me, so for net pots I substituted these little plastic baskets from the dollar store. They are 10” x 3”. The lid of the totes will hold two of these side by side. I cut out holes for the baskets. I lined the clear plastic tubs with several layers of black plastic and finished with a layer of tin foil. The tin foil is meant to shield the tubs from light and heat, not to reflect light for the plants. I was meticulous about making the tubs lightproof.

Plants:
I germinated 15 of the lowlife autoflower seeds by placing them into water for 24hrs, then placing them in cups cut out from egg containers. I filled the containers with rinsed perlite and placed them into a dome on top of my fridge. This did not prove to be a good germination method. In the past I have used these egg cups; just cardboard cups from egg containers I kept. The roots will grow through the cardboard and it never seemed to cause a problem with mold or ph influence or anything. However I guess in the past I was not worried about the bag seeds. I planted dozens and the ones that never came up I didn't give a second thought. Of course now each seed is worth something to me, and it was sad when I had to eventually throw away all but six seeds. They just sat there in a covered container on my fridge and never cracked. Before throwing them away I noticed most were open a little and a couple were mushy and almost liquefied. I tried to be attentive and keep them moist rather than wet, but I guess I failed.

Rockwool is not an option for me. I instead bought some jiffy pellets. I soaked another 15 auto seeds and placed them into the pellets, about a half inch below the surface. I placed them into dome and set the dome on a heating pad, set to low. In the end, I still ended up trashing all but 5 of the pellets. Most simply did not germinate. A few showed themselves but never got to the point of opening up and growing. They just cracked the surface and sat there. A couple started to grow the first set of leaves, but never got passed that. I eventually threw out the dead and dying and was left with 11 autos, from 30 seeds. Of the ones that are left, 3 are runts, and at least one of the runts seems on the verge of death.

I soaked all 5 nightshade seeds and put them into the pellets. Three of them sprouted the next day. Two of them have not shown themselves, 7 days later.


What I've learned so far -

Order some rockwool cubes to start seeds in. Perhaps it will be easier for me to control moisture. Hopefully I will have clones for the next few grows and not have to deal with seeds. I also wonder if lowlife mix seeds are crap. Barneys seeds seemed to germ easier and grow better after germ. However, doing some research on several forums seems to indicate most people do not have problems with lowlife seeds. The nightshade may seem to be growing better because they are not dwarfs, and the low germ rate is almost certainly due to human error.

The mix seed packs sound cool and I like the thought of growing a variety, but research says that growing different stains in the same res is generally a bad idea. If any of these seeds have blueberry genetics in them they will probably not like the same nute mix as their neighbors.

Get bigger tubs. Get some mylar. Get slightly bigger airstones. Get a thermometer to monitor water temps. Get real PH down instead of vinegar.

I am a student and on a strict budget. I will have to wait a couple months before I can afford to correct my lack of foresight.



2 Weeks Later: I have three 4 gal containers. Two of the containers have 6 lowlife auto plants each. One container has 3 nightshade females. So far not so good.


I will explain the last two weeks more after I get back from class. Feel free to post comments or complaints. All input is appreciated.
 
PH Nightmare

After salvaging what was left from a terrible germination stage, The seedlings were placed in the baskets, and the baskets were filled with perlite. The tanks were filled with PH adjusted water, and no nutes were given until the second set of leaves began to show. I started the nutes at 1/4 tsp per gallon. This gave me a ppm reading of about 500.

Now the PH problems start. First wrong thing was my attitude. I felt I needed to keep the PH under control at all times. Since I am home all day, I checked it once an hour. I would lower it to 5.5 and an hour later it would be up to 6 or higher. The combination of PH spiking and me constantly chasing it really hurt the plants, which stopped growing and turned yellow. I decided to only adjust the PH twice a day, 8 hours apart, no matter how high the reading was. The plants responded by growing a few new normal colored leaves, however the yellow leaves never got better.

Then I noticed my PH meter doing weird things today. Sitting in the water it will give a constant reading, say 6.0, until a shadow falls on it... then it will jump to 7.2 or sometimes jump down to 5.5, seems pretty random. So direct light falling on the meter seems to influence the reading. I decided to try to calibrate the meter outside of the bright grow room, and discovered the adjustment screws do nothing at all. I can turn each screw as many times as I want, the reading does not change. This is a new meter, apparently defective. I will be returning it, unfortunately by mail.

In the mean time I grabbed a PH test kit for aquariums. I have trouble seeing different shades of colors, so these types of kits aren't real useful to me. Even worse, the range is only 6.0-7.6. I stopped at a local shop that sells pond supplies, and they actually had some GH PH Down. I figured using vinegar was part of the reason the PH climbed so rapidly.

After a day of testing, it looks like my defective meter may have been giving me false numbers, but it was correct about the the PH spike after just a few hours. The tubs were adjusted down to 6.0 this afternoon, and already they are back up to 7.2-7.6. I resisted the urge to correct it. I will leave them sit for a while longer and flush the tanks. I feel really ignorant without a digital meter.

I also noticed in one tank a grey slime type substance in the water. The water is clouded with it. It almost looks like settlement as it tends to gather in the bottom of the tub, perhaps from the perlite. The perlite was rinsed very well and has been in the baskets for weeks now, so I dunno. The slime also coats the bottom of the baskets, but doesn't appear to be growing on the baskets themselves. It's more like it just splashed onto them from the water and left a film. The roots of most of the plants looks perfectly crisp and white. However one plant has two main shoots, and just one of those shoots was covered in this slime. I drained the tank and cleaned it with alcohol and scalding water. I replaced the airstones and air line with new, and flushed the baskets with tap water. I also snipped off the shoot of roots that had the slime. I filled the tank with fresh nute water, and about 4 hours later the water had clouded up again. The plant which had the slimy roots is my fastest growing plant so far, so it didn't seem to mind. Neither do the rest of the plants in that tub, so im not going to freak out just yet. I will check the roots again tomorrow and see. BTW the tank is 100% light proof and I have been using 1/8 cup of h2o2 per gallon, so I don't think this is an algae problem. The water smells fine.

I noticed a small bit of foam gathering on the sides of the nightshade's tank. This foam isn't slimy, has no smell, so I decided to ignore it.

All tanks are now getting 1/2 strength nutes. So far the PPM seems to indicate they would like a little more food. It goes down slightly every time I check it. I have been increasing the nute strength by a tiny amount every day or two, and I am slowly closing the gap. I am trying to be careful not to over feed.

I believe I will watch some breaking bad, and then dig out my digicam. I am nervous about posting pics, but I would really like my girls to have access to better minds than mine.
 
All tanks were flushed at midnight and brought down to proper PH. This morning at 9am, the tanks are all reading a ph of around 7. I have decided to stop introducing new tap water, no more flushing until it's time. I suspect my city water may have crud in it that is buffering the PH to a higher level. To test this, I have started a control sample. A gallon of water with all the nutes and air stones is sitting in my bedroom, away from the grow room. If this water does not behave the same, I will know the variable I need to control is in my tank.

The cloudy water/grey slime problem seems to have cleared up, and never seemed to effect the plants. Perhaps this was just settlement from the perlite. I will keep a close eye for it's return.

Aside from the rollercoaster PH, the tanks and roots look great. No bad smells.

A few of the plants are showing that sickly pale green color you get at the beginning of PH problems. This sucks cos they just recovered from the last ph prob a few days ago. Enough time to grow a few new green leaves, and now those leaves are dying. I am considering spending my last $30 on a new digital ph meter. The color coded testing does not agree with my eyesight.
 
I just needed to get to know my water. Im sure the defective Ph meter didn't help, but the test sample of water I placed in my bedroom showed the same behavior as the water in the res. Sooo, after I add new water to the res, ph adjusted, it spikes back up after a few hours. If I adjust it back down, it again spikes up, but not as badly. Each time it's brought down after that, the spike is less and less until eventually it levels off. It still drifts upwards but at a rate that is expected.

The early signs of ph damage that I thought I saw yesterday are gone. The tanks are all clean smelling and the roots are all very white.

I noticed on of the autos is showing a few hairs. My biggest plant :) I suppose I will have to start nudging that res toward bloom nutes.
 
Here are some pics.


My lights: 2 150wt HPS "area" lights. (yes, im embarrassed by the tin foil)
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The disadvantage here is that the lights are stationary, forcing me to elevate or lower the tubs instead.

Night shade seedlings
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Here you see a couple of the autoflowers, but what this pic really shows is the screen I use for ScrOG. The screen has been removed now, as autoflowers don't have time to grow into it.
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Autos from a diff angle, you can barely see the runts in front which suffered from a recent PH burn.
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Further back, looking rather sad
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One week later:

The ph problem has passed, amazing what a difference an accurate meter makes. The plants have taken off and most have shown their sex. Only two males so far, but of course one of them was my biggest plant. Only two have not shown sex, and I anticipate them to be male. Meanwhile, the nightshades have been topped.

I am once again finding my garden to be a peaceful place. So far I haven't found the PPM meter to be much help. I think this is because my plants aren't big enough to change the concentration much. Each time I check the tubs seem to be down slightly. This doesn't matter if the ppm is 500, 750 or 1000 to start with, it just falls slightly.

The idea was that the autoflowers would give me something to stare at while I wait for the nightshades to grow into mothers.



The nightshades, they responded well to topping. You might also notice that I am using twist-ties to train the plants away from each other a bit.
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Although these plants are growing fast, they are presenting some weird signs.
This one has been FIM topped, and you can see the partial leaves that grew out. The new lite green growth appears to be kind of spotted, and the leaves themselves have an odd bumpy texture.
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The new leaves of this plant are curling upwards from the sides, but there is no bumpy spotted growth on this one.
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The autoflowers have taken off nicely. Sux that these are all thats left from 30 seeds. But what a difference a week makes. The auto flowers are now on the "transition to bloom" concentration of nutes. (standard GH 3 part system). These could be perhaps considered to be in full bloom, but I don't want to increase the nutes too fast.
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The two closest big ones have not shown sex yet.
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And here are the roots. For the most part they are white and healthy looking, except for the snot-like substance on some of them. (first pic, bottom left root) Also the last few days the temps in the grow room have climbed, and ive noticed a slight darkening and possible algae growth.
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Anyone have ideas as to what the snot on the roots are, or why the odd growth from the nightshades? Appreciate any feedback!
 
After some reading I am making a guess,

Discolored slimy roots, no light reaches the tank, the water temps have been high for a few days

I am seeing the beginning of root rot.

Hopefully im wrong because, as I understand it, cloning from mothers with root rot is a waste of time. I would have to try to nurse these along till harvest and start over with new seeds, and a sterile environment.

In the meantime I am cooling the tanks with ice packs and increasing h2o2 levels.
 
Had a look at the roots late last night. In just a few hours since the pictures most of them went from the nice white color to a sickly brown. The slime has increased around the roots, brown and dark green spots have appeared and are spreading, and there is now a slight odor. This is not a bad smell, doesnt smell like decay... smells like an earthy moss type odor. Its sort of pleasant actually.

So perhaps I am being paranoid. It's possible the GH micro nutes colored the roots, as I did increase ppm shortly before I noticed the discoloration, and the slime itself has been there since the beginning, perhaps it just got colored too.

Even so, I snipped out all the effected roots, cleaned the tubs and added fresh water. I have relocated the air pumps to outside the grow room, and I am packing them with ice packs. I have a little tote packed with ice that the air tubes circle around in before going into the grow room. I have also increased h2o2 levels in the water.

I am now considering scrapping the nightshade. By that I mean, letting it go to harvest instead of keeping them for moms. Think I will order one of the colored mix packs from greenhouse and start over.
 
Well my second lesson learned.

The ventilation in my room is too poor. This is causing the heat to build up. I didn't worry about it too much because my temps never got above 88 at the highest, but I didn't consider that with such small tanks the water heats up a lot quicker. The small tanks means there is less oxygen for the roots to begin with, and the hotter water holds even less. So the conditions for root rot were perfect. Also, the tanks/plants were simply too close to the light. With less oxygen available to the roots the the plants were unable to handle the intense light and heat. This is probably what caused the bleaching, curling and the bumpy growth. Thanks to Roseman for pointing me in the right direction.

So I lowered the tanks and shut off one of the lights. Now that I have weeded out the males, there are less plants, so the second light is no longer necessary. The water is now cool and the nightshades have already begun to uncurl.
 
A week later

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Well the week started out with fears of root rot. Thankfully that was fairly easy to take care of. I treated the tubs with h2o2 (8 caps per gallon) and started using ice packs to keep the tanks cool. I just freeze my old peroxide bottles and tie a string to them to keep them from floating around. I purchased a cheap water thermometer, and even with the ice the coldest the water gets is 68f. That seems to be enough as the roots are now white and healthy looking. They are a bit discolored from the nute mix, but the slime is gone.

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These autoflower roots aren't recovering from the trim very well. I guess plants in bud stage are not great about growing roots? But you can see the slimy rot is gone.
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The other problem I was having last week was heat stress. It was hard for me to diagnose because it was not typical heat stress. The vegetation itself wasn't stressed, but the hi temp water in the tanks was stressing the roots, which caused the leafs to grow light green spots and bumpy texture. I think this is known as moisture stress. Hot water = less oxygen, compounded by the fact that some of the roots were snipped to cure the root rot.

To help things I upgraded the tanks to 10 gallon totes. Now the plants have a much bigger bank of DO, and the tanks will better resist PH and temperature change. I also raised the lights to about 18 inches above the canopy, and took steps to increase the humidity. Humidity may be a bad idea for the autoflowers in bud, but I really don't care much about those. I want to take care of the nightshade, which is in veg. I also switched from 24/0 to a 20/4 light schedule, hopefully the plants will benefit from a short dark period. ( a break from the light and heat)

It took the nightshade several days to come out of the moisture stress, in fact they still aren't real healthy looking, but the new growth appears to be normal (no bumps or spots). One of the nightshade still seems to be curling and cupping but I don't know anything more to do to help that.

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Still a little curling on this one
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The biggest concern for this week is that the tops of the flowering plants are droopy. The tops of the buds look like little claws curling down. I've noticed this will correct itself during some parts of the day to where the new leaves are almost pointing straight up, but then a few hours later they will appear wilted again.
Droopy plants seem to point to over watering, under watering, or under feeding. I believe I have the first two issues corrected, so I guess this week I should concentrate on the ppm levels and try to adjust.

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So what do you guys think? Looks to me like it's gonna be a mediocre harvest.
 
the autoflowers are at 5 weeks now, so 3 weeks left to grow I suppose.




The nightshades are at about 3 1/2 weeks.
 
Just to show the difference in appearance over the course of the day. These are the auto's 12 hrs later. The conditions in the grow room are the same.

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The drooping is mostly gone. If this were happening at the end or beginning of a light cycle that might be a clue. But these have been on 24/0 and im just switching them to 20/4 today.
 
3 days later...

Good News:
Plants are looking great. They just wanted more food. The autos have stopped drooping and are almost pointing to the sky. They also grew an inch or so, although there is virtually no trichome production to be seen. The nightshades have perked up are showing very healthy looking growth. At this point my PPM is 1400 in veg. Guess I have really hard water.

Bad News:
Root rot is back, despite heavy use of H2o2 and res temperatures in the low to mid 60s. The root tips are turning brown and retracting. So far there is still no bad smell, so hopefully it is still treatable.

I pulled out the baskets and let the roots hang in the air. I took a bottle of store grade peroxide and sprayed it directly on the roots with a mister. I snipped off the really slimy roots from the autoflowers, cos I really hate those things. I didn't snip any of the nightshade roots partly cos there not as bad, and a little cos I like em a lot better. Also changed the water and bleached the tanks. New air stones again.

I don't expect to get rid of the rot at this point. The autos only need to make it a few more weeks so I'm not worried about those crap-ass plants. I hope to take cuttings from the nightshades next week, so I am just trying to keep the rot in check until then. Hopefully it wont transfer to the clones.

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Not root rot?

I found an article that said, if you have root rot that doesn't smell, and doesn't seem to be helped by cold temperatures, high oxygen, and h2o2, it probably isn't root rot. There is a certain type of algae in some DWCs that has been coined, the brown slime algae. It doesn't need light and doesn't go away with sterilization. Apparently the only thing that can be done is sterilization with physan 20 to kill the live stuff, and then Dutch masters zone to keep it in check when it comes back the next day. Even this doesn't kill it, just keep it in check long enough for the plant to get healthy and resistant. The only true cure for this seems to be, throw everything used to grow with in the trash and move, preferably leaving everything in the house behind.

Can't afford to try both products at this time, so I am going with the Dutch masters zone. Should arrive in a couple days. I will sterilize with bleach and h2o2 and try the zone.

Meanwhile the plants are dropping a bit again, starting to think they just like to do that at this time of day. Or it could be from the root trimming. Misting them with plain water seemed to make things worse.
 
It's finally starting to look like a real grow. The plants grew all this week with no real problems. The autos shot up and are now producing many visible crystals. The nightshade is ready to give clones.

I ordered some dutch masters zone for the brown mushy roots. In the meantime I decided not to worry about it. I keep the res temps cool, but not as cool as I was. They stay around 68f now. Before I was keeping them around 62f but saw no difference, and 68 takes fewer ice pack changes. Of course now that I have stopped worrying about the roots...they are looking great!! I guess the spray bath of 3% peroxide helped more than I thought. The nightshade roots are still looking sad, but I see a lot of new growth there too. The DMZ should be here tomorrow, so hopefully i'll never have to deal with bad roots again.

Nightshade
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Autos
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New Roots
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4 days later....

Girls are looking great. The autos are really starting to fill in.
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I know it looks a little wild. Normally I would have been a little more worried about evening out the canopy, but I didn't think a scrog would work well with autos.
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Here is a shot of the 3 nightshade plants after giving me 20 clones.
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I left one big stalk on each for when I flower them.

My attempt at cloning looks like it is gonna fail. I build a small bubble cloner. I checked the stems after 3 days and they were all curled up.
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Not sure if I am gonna recut these or jus throw them out. I'm taking a few more cuttings in a couple days, I am gonna just try to put them in cups filled with perlite and set the cups down into a few inches of water.

The Dutch Master Root Zone came last friday. I must say it is a realy good product. I still don't know if I had root rot or the brown slime algae, but this stuff took care of it quickly.

Here is a shot of the nightshade roots last thursday and another from today.
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And the auto's roots as compared to the pic I posted last thursday.
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Lookin good, Grumpy. I gotta tell ya we are both doing some of the same things right and a few wrong...Thanks for sharing and good luck. I'm using Advanced Nutrients Sensi-grow A & B and SensiZyme to help keep the root zone healthy...Seems to be working, so far :)
 
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