Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
I always weigh mine wet as I am trimming to get ready for drying.
After drying, manicuring and curing I lose between 76% to 80% of weight.
Which is 1/4th to 1/5th depending in strain.
Question About High Yields
- Thread starter CrazyChef
- Start date
After drying, manicuring and curing I lose between 76% to 80% of weight.
Which is 1/4th to 1/5th depending in strain.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
It's a pros and cons situation really I think mate, and it depends on which side of the fence you're looking from.I've never once topped a plant, seems totally pointless to me.
When you top you take away the apical dominate top and allow the two growth tips to become dominant.
When you bend down the apical dominate top in LST you get the EXACT same results plus get to keep that top which continues to grow and create two more growth tips for every 1" or less of growth.
I never top and I still get on average 30 colas per plant.
So it all boils down to whatever your preferred method is as it makes little to no difference in the final outcome.
I just prefer to keep the original top which usually ends up being a nice bud.
There's 4 angles as far as I can see.
Those that leave to grow natural Christmas tree style plants. Which regardless of how much you get, you could always have gotten more.
Then there's a mysterious elite of people that are mostly QB users from my observations. An elusive grower who can
master the power of the gods and make plants that look like my profile pic but bigger and without training them at all!!!
Then there's you and finally me.
Not too but train.
Do top but train.
All the reasons you've just stated about the main cola are exactly the reasons why I don't like it.
It's a pain in the ass from my point of view.
It gets in the way, it's always trying to grow harder than the rest. You can end up having a 2ft x 4ft, top heavy plant.
I grow massive plants in 4" Rockwools balanced on a shelf. An unevenly weight distributed plant is a dead one lol.
I also prefer the symmetry of a topped then trained plant. Just easier to manage all round imo.
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
I get a few wild tops here and there but with a SCROG they mostly stay pretty even.
And what you don't like about the original top is exactly what I like about it.
It just keeps growing hard and fast about 2" per day in stretch which translates to 2 nodes everyday through stretch and every 2 to 3 days I just train it to the next opening in the SCROG.
But you are correct overall.
I've had times where I probably should have topped a couple of them that were growing outa control and I ran out of space in SCROG so they had no where to grow but up. I got two right now that I should have slowed their growth by topping but couldn't bring myself to do the deed.
Slowing down the growth of those so the rest could catch up would have been the wiser choice.
But I just hate slowing down growth, even when it might be the best solution at times.
But either way, as long as you LST and SCROG whether you top or not is not going to make any difference in your yield.
Still going to fill the SCROG up.
And what you don't like about the original top is exactly what I like about it.
It just keeps growing hard and fast about 2" per day in stretch which translates to 2 nodes everyday through stretch and every 2 to 3 days I just train it to the next opening in the SCROG.
But you are correct overall.
I've had times where I probably should have topped a couple of them that were growing outa control and I ran out of space in SCROG so they had no where to grow but up. I got two right now that I should have slowed their growth by topping but couldn't bring myself to do the deed.
Slowing down the growth of those so the rest could catch up would have been the wiser choice.
But I just hate slowing down growth, even when it might be the best solution at times.
But either way, as long as you LST and SCROG whether you top or not is not going to make any difference in your yield.
Still going to fill the SCROG up.
LiberalThinker
Well-Known Member
Doesn't supercropping tame the centre stem and bring up the lower colas... or am i missing something?
No Pain
Well-Known Member
Thank you … I truly am blessed .. I know exactly how you feel as I have been there . super crowded spaces that you have to be able to limbo just to prevent breaking things to tent restrictions and as you can see I still mess with a tent as it keeps me in check and gives me the ability to appreciate what I have to day even more ...never forget where you came from . haha okay maybe I shouldn't have to that hit before writing .
I have came quite a ways in 2 years though. Started with a cardboard box lined with foil & CFL's before I got addicted to growing. Now I have 2 lights that were $1050 ea. Phresh Filter, Max Fan, etc... so I'm getting there. Selling this house before the end of the year to buy a bigger one so who knows what could happen then.
No Pain
Well-Known Member
There you go ..I started in big dog kennels ( wire kind) with florescent tubes and foil over 20 years ago . lol
I want a whole room set up with Spyder Influence lighting .... that should keep me happy ...LOL.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Can supercrop any branch anywhere mate. You basically just pinch the stem and give it a good squeeze. It goes a bit mushy and the branch's falls over. Couple days later it's back up at a 90* angle.
Similar result to tying them down.
Saves tying things all the time but brings in the risk of snapping bits.
It's easy enough but does take a bit of getting used to. I still snap bits and I've done it to a few crops now.
LiberalThinker
Well-Known Member
You can try an experiment on a branch I've wanted to try but I can't do it on a scrog. Put a stick/splint where you want to supercrop and tape it either end around the branch. Do a diagonal cut 3/4 of the way through the branch in the middle with a sharp knife/blade. Tape over the cut. Years ago, I ripped a main branch with just a bit connecting it. I splinted as described earlier which resulted in a great centre cola and level lower colas. That was a Northern Lights. I'm surmising doing a clean cut will inhibit the auxins just the same as breaking the branch and it seems safer. Effectively, you are doing a normal graft technique without removing the branch and scarring the phloem/xylem transport mechanism just as you do crushing it. Does that make sense?
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Yeah sounds logical enough anyway mate. I'll be going back to Lst and string after this run though cos I'm not mastering the canopy mangement very well with supercropping. Been a few years experimenting with all sorts but think I've finally found what works best for me so gonna stick with the string from now
falstaffo
Well-Known Member
i have to top train manifold quadline all in attempts to keep height down and create short bushes rather that tall mofos, have not a lot of height lol
just in the process of harvesting my final 2 from first crop, 3 photos were manifolded, the training i feel defo helped, a lot!!!
guesstimating around 5-6z of one plant, the other 2 not sure yet, but one has a 98g cola, 80g cola, 2or3 mid 60s that i quickly checked before washing (wet weights). no way id have been able to train my way to the haul i have on my first grow without high stress training.
just in the process of harvesting my final 2 from first crop, 3 photos were manifolded, the training i feel defo helped, a lot!!!
guesstimating around 5-6z of one plant, the other 2 not sure yet, but one has a 98g cola, 80g cola, 2or3 mid 60s that i quickly checked before washing (wet weights). no way id have been able to train my way to the haul i have on my first grow without high stress training.
Dogwash
Well-Known Member
I always top em a few times
I grow from seed
I wait until the seedlings have four or five good leaf pairs from the top of the plant, then I take the top off
This makes the next two lower sproutings turn into two main tops and side growth from below gets a chance to catch up
A couple weeks later when there's four main stems from one seedling I top all those, turning them into eight main stems
They go from the small veg tent into the main tent around this time
Give em a week or so to settle in and spread out, then top all the main shoots again
Let em go for another week then flip em to bloom
You will have a load of cola sites ready for action
Also shortly after they go in the main tent I put a fixed frame over em, pvc tubing I've built that has holes drilled every ten cm so I can weave string and make a grid that I use to force the plants to stay low and spread wide
No Pain
Well-Known Member
Im a Spectrum King guy , you should take a look at their low profile series .
I have looked at some of the Spectrum King LED's & I think the lights I have now are equal to them. I'm running P900 watters at 535 watts actual power draw per light. The Spyder Influence just looks interesting to me so I'd like to try one.
No Pain
Well-Known Member
never used platinum leds . I will say that I did look at them when I got into leds . Im certain they preform for you I just wouldn't agree that they or any other light on the market is equal simply due to the patented light spectrum that spectrum king lights have . I agree the spyder influence looks interesting as I looked at those also before going with what I have now . The low pro series is pretty similar to the spyder design and gavita also came out with one similar.
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Hey @CrazyChef ... great question and there are going to be many points of view for sure.
With topping, lining, lollipopping, and ScrOGing I picture a few plants being trained to maximize growth nodes until your canopy is full. If you grow from seed, ... you have varied phenotypes so results will vary. If you take the time to find a strong mother phenotype then you get strong stable results.
On the other hand, why not have your favorite high yielding strain ... take the time to find a strong mother ... then take a bunch of clones and put them into a SOG formation. You let each plant focus on apical dominance with one cola each ... which it does naturally. Since the plants are clones, ... the growth rate should be even, ... and the canopy should be even too.
I am pretty sure most industrial growers rely on strong mothers and reliable clones, so I am pretty sure most of the senior growers here take advantage of this.
However, with autoflower strains advancing to the the point now where their yields are nearly as high as their parent photoperiods, then why not double-down and grow two harvests of autoflowers in the time it takes to train and grow one photoperiod.
For me, I am a few years away from deciding on my ideal strain ... I still want to have fun learning and experimenting with autoflowers, photoperiods, clones, SOG, ScrOG, lining, LST, HST ... and if I am only growing a handful of plants compared to hundreds of plants ... fun outweighs maximum yield for me right now.
Well, thanks again for the awesome question and I am really interested in what everyone else has to say about this question that is always on everyone's mind!
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
from what i have experienced its all about whatever your lights, space and genetics.
you can play around here and there but you can only stretch the boundaries so much with LST.
without powerful enough light you cannot provide high enough ppfd to the edges and have to cram colas together, which doesnt work
you can play around here and there but you can only stretch the boundaries so much with LST.
without powerful enough light you cannot provide high enough ppfd to the edges and have to cram colas together, which doesnt work
- Thread starter
- #39
Here are the specs from the manufacturer. This is for one light, and I have three of them about 18"away from each other in my flower tent.
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Here are the specs from the manufacturer. This is for one light, and I have three of them about 18"away from each other in my flower tent.
So using this as a basis:
HOW MUCH LIGHT DO YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS REQUIRE?
- Clones and seedlings: 5,000–7,000 lux
- Vegetative growth: 15,000–50,000 lux
- Flowering: 45,000–65,000 lux
- Maximum recommended amount of light: 75,000 lux
Between 200-400 PPFD: This is great for seedlings, clones, and mother plants.
Between 400-600 PPFD: This is great for early to late stage vegging cycles.
Between 600-900 PPFD: This is great for the flowering, fruiting, or budding stage of plants.
With your lights at 18" spacing and 18" height ... a good estimate is:
800 ppfd center - bloom
500 ppfd 1' - late veg
390 ppfd 2' - early veg
250 ppfd 3' - seedlings
