HunterHunt
Well-Known Member
Looking really good! I would cover the rest of your rockwool with hydroton so that it wont grow algae! What PPM are you at right now?
Groovy Bud's Revenge Grow Journal - Super Lemon Haze & Blue Dream DWC
- Thread starter Groovy Bud
- Start date
CajunCelt
New Member
Awesome update Groovy.
Your lil ones look great.
I wouldn't get in any hurry boosting the EC right now. Right now is root building time.
Your lil ones look great.
I wouldn't get in any hurry boosting the EC right now. Right now is root building time.
Here are my thoughts on light leak, I don't believe it's that big of a deal as its lead to believe. My reason for this is the fact that for pretty much every night there is light being seen from the moon, and wild cannabis seems to grow just fine the light from the moon. Just my thought, by no means am I an expert on the matter.
HunterHunt
Well-Known Member
lol.... Well I can tell you for a fact that light leaks matter... a lot. Only really in flower though. During veg you can run 24 hour lights on if you wanted to. But you get better growth at 18/6. If its just a few pin holes just put some reflective tape over them. Go inside the tent and turn lights off and double check. Same thing as on outside. I patched my tent holes fast and it was easy.
Whitty, The reflection from the moon doesnt put off any light rays or spectrum lol... Its just a reflection. Same way as you can go into your lights out flowering room with a candle? (I believe is what some use).
Makes complete sense.
CajunCelt
New Member
Even tiny leaks make a HUGE difference in indoor grows.
Outdoors, even a distant street light can affect your plants.
Outdoors, even a distant street light can affect your plants.
- Thread starter
- #27
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
@ HunterNitro E.C. is around 0.80 right now. which means 400 ppm total (tap water original ppm is 75)
It makes sense not having issues with light leaks during vegetation. Closing holes is easy, but not when there is an open vent that leaks light, without the exhaustion fan on. I'm going to put the exhaustion fan, although (to keep humidity levels), just to block some light.
I noticed that most kind of tapes don't glue to the mylar walls. Would it be because of the humidity on walls? I guess I'll apply black tape on the outside as an alternative for now.
Changing the light schedule to 18/6 tomorrow, I've let 24h for too long and it must be expensive (the electrical bill hasn't arrived yet). Do you think it is time for them to get the full 400w MH power now?
Cajun, why would it be bad to add more nutes during root growth? Isn't it an independant mechanism? Or is it more like, they focus their energy into leaf growth instead of root development?
It makes sense not having issues with light leaks during vegetation. Closing holes is easy, but not when there is an open vent that leaks light, without the exhaustion fan on. I'm going to put the exhaustion fan, although (to keep humidity levels), just to block some light.
I noticed that most kind of tapes don't glue to the mylar walls. Would it be because of the humidity on walls? I guess I'll apply black tape on the outside as an alternative for now.
Changing the light schedule to 18/6 tomorrow, I've let 24h for too long and it must be expensive (the electrical bill hasn't arrived yet). Do you think it is time for them to get the full 400w MH power now?
Cajun, why would it be bad to add more nutes during root growth? Isn't it an independant mechanism? Or is it more like, they focus their energy into leaf growth instead of root development?
CajunCelt
New Member
@ HunterNitro E.C. is around 0.80 right now. which means 400 ppm total (tap water original ppm is 75)
It makes sense not having issues with light leaks during vegetation. Closing holes is easy, but not when there is an open vent that leaks light, without the exhaustion fan on. I'm going to put the exhaustion fan, although (to keep humidity levels), just to block some light.
I noticed that most kind of tapes don't glue to the mylar walls. Would it be because of the humidity on walls? I guess I'll apply black tape on the outside as an alternative for now.
Changing the light schedule to 18/6 tomorrow, I've let 24h for too long and it must be expensive (the electrical bill hasn't arrived yet). Do you think it is time for them to get the full 400w MH power now?
Cajun, why would it be bad to add more nutes during root growth? Isn't it an independant mechanism? Or is it more like, they focus their energy into leaf growth instead of root development?
Yeah. Let them go to veg with the 18/6 before they get stretchy.
More nutes won't effect root development. That's just the stage they're in. Just warning you off from burning them.
If you're kicking them into veg, the EC boost should be good. I would watch them close to make sure they like it.
HunterHunt
Well-Known Member
400 ppm? Wow that actually seems kinda high for your period... I would def not go any higher... Remember more nutes does NOT mean faster growth... I would for sure switch them to 18/6 and a 400 watt should be ok... Just watch them the first few days.
- Thread starter
- #30
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
Ok seems I have got the chance to do a minor update.
18/6 schedule on with 400w MH. Raised the light's height so it wouldn't burn them. I can see the difference in the spectre myself now (coming from the 250w dimmable mode)
Upped the nutrients: GRO is at 6,5 ml/10L (up from 5), Micro is at 5 ml/10L (up from 4) and slightly raised BLOOM to 3ml/10L (up from 2,5). The reason for rising the Bloom is just to prevent a Phosphorus defficiency going.
SLH reservoir E.C. Value: 0.95 (up from 0.83)
BD reservoir E.C. Value: 0.91 (up from 0.81)
In the end I just raised a total of 50-75 ppm.
Every now and then I find 1 little bug inside the tent. Today there was 1 trying to escape the reservoir's water. Later I find a dead one sitting on one of the lids. I'm starting to get nervous about this, because I don't want to get a pest going. I think I remember there was some kind insecticide glue tape that used to be sold back on my childhood. It was supposed to attract the insects into the glue due to smell ou sugar (idk) and they would die there. I'm wondering about getting that and/or some insect repeller spray can to apply to the outter side of the vents (not inside). WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ABOUT THIS? GOT ANY OTHER IDEAS?
PHOTO UPDATE: I must say they have some huge roots going right now! What an incredible boost. 4th node coming really fast
BD #1
BD #2
SLH # 1
SLH # 2
The Room (so you can notice their heights)
18/6 schedule on with 400w MH. Raised the light's height so it wouldn't burn them. I can see the difference in the spectre myself now (coming from the 250w dimmable mode)
Upped the nutrients: GRO is at 6,5 ml/10L (up from 5), Micro is at 5 ml/10L (up from 4) and slightly raised BLOOM to 3ml/10L (up from 2,5). The reason for rising the Bloom is just to prevent a Phosphorus defficiency going.
SLH reservoir E.C. Value: 0.95 (up from 0.83)
BD reservoir E.C. Value: 0.91 (up from 0.81)
In the end I just raised a total of 50-75 ppm.
Every now and then I find 1 little bug inside the tent. Today there was 1 trying to escape the reservoir's water. Later I find a dead one sitting on one of the lids. I'm starting to get nervous about this, because I don't want to get a pest going. I think I remember there was some kind insecticide glue tape that used to be sold back on my childhood. It was supposed to attract the insects into the glue due to smell ou sugar (idk) and they would die there. I'm wondering about getting that and/or some insect repeller spray can to apply to the outter side of the vents (not inside). WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ABOUT THIS? GOT ANY OTHER IDEAS?
PHOTO UPDATE: I must say they have some huge roots going right now! What an incredible boost. 4th node coming really fast
BD #1
BD #2
SLH # 1
SLH # 2
The Room (so you can notice their heights)
- Thread starter
- #31
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
After consideration and a bit of study, I concluded I was rushing a bit too much by trying to raise the EC's too early.
So I proceded to dillute a bit by adding 3-4 of plain water to each tank and adjusted the pH.
Resulting in: SLH reservoir E.C. Value = 0.85; BD reservoir E.C. Value= 0.88
Raised the lights even more because canopy temperature was getting hot with the 400w.
Thanks for the "slap back to reality" guys. I was about to get deeper into a dark path of overfeeding.
So I proceded to dillute a bit by adding 3-4 of plain water to each tank and adjusted the pH.
Resulting in: SLH reservoir E.C. Value = 0.85; BD reservoir E.C. Value= 0.88
Raised the lights even more because canopy temperature was getting hot with the 400w.
Thanks for the "slap back to reality" guys. I was about to get deeper into a dark path of overfeeding.
HunterHunt
Well-Known Member
If you have had it at 400 and shes ok you can leave it... Just keep an eye on her for tip burn.
CajunCelt
New Member
Morning Groovy.
I can't recall. What day of veg are ya at?
I can't recall. What day of veg are ya at?
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- #34
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
Ok so this is my first time topping. In the previous grow, I didn't have the chance to train them as I'd wish. I was interested about microtopping and I still am. I acknowledged that it inconsists on pinching off just the tiny new bit of growth coming from the plan'ts top. I remember there used to be a guide by Light's Addict on this subject, if I'm right.
Both BD's are growing her 6th node now, They are huge and strongly stemmed. The very first-born pair of serrated leaves are really small and weak compared to all the new growth, and if I don't take them into consideration, the 5th node is now coming then.
SLH seems to have a different "anatomy". They are also very wide and strong built now, but they seem to be 1 node behind the BD. They have the similar height and looks but I can't count the same number of nodes. They are growing their 5th now (if I don't count with the first weak set of serrated leaves, it is the 4th node.
I'm about to post a couple of pictures. I was wondering if you could provide me with some better insight about microtopping, or if I should just top the normal way (back to the 5th node as people usually do).
They are growing at a very fast rate, and I'm reckoning I might already be late on topping them.
Both BD's are growing her 6th node now, They are huge and strongly stemmed. The very first-born pair of serrated leaves are really small and weak compared to all the new growth, and if I don't take them into consideration, the 5th node is now coming then.
SLH seems to have a different "anatomy". They are also very wide and strong built now, but they seem to be 1 node behind the BD. They have the similar height and looks but I can't count the same number of nodes. They are growing their 5th now (if I don't count with the first weak set of serrated leaves, it is the 4th node.
I'm about to post a couple of pictures. I was wondering if you could provide me with some better insight about microtopping, or if I should just top the normal way (back to the 5th node as people usually do).
They are growing at a very fast rate, and I'm reckoning I might already be late on topping them.
CajunCelt
New Member
Both strains love being topped. I've never heard of micro topping? Topping is..topping. But, yes, take the tiny new top coming up. I wouldn't take the top plus an entire node though. That's a lot of unnecessary stress that will set you back about 10 days.
LA I think is the one that shows where to top. It might be in his Tut tutorial. Get it pinched off when it's tiny. The plant won't be bothered, but be careful to not disturb the 2 new lateral branches by it. They'll be your new main colas
LA I think is the one that shows where to top. It might be in his Tut tutorial. Get it pinched off when it's tiny. The plant won't be bothered, but be careful to not disturb the 2 new lateral branches by it. They'll be your new main colas
- Thread starter
- #36
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
Sorry for soo many pics:
BD # 1 Overview
BD # 1 Side
BD # 1 Top
BD # 2 Over-view
BD #2 Side
BD #2 Top. On this one I see that the top is not very differentiated yet for me to be able to distinguish between where to pinch or where not to.
SLH #1 Over-view
SLH #1 Side (sry for blurr)
SLH #1 Top
SLH #2 Over-view
SLH #2 Side
SLH #2 Upper-Side
SLH # Top
ROOM
My point in this is to understand if the exact place to top is that little growth tip located between the latest and still forming pair of nodes.
Help is appreciated. The earlier I top, the lesser I can removefrom the growing tip, and much lesser is the caused stress.
BD # 1 Overview
BD # 1 Side
BD # 1 Top
BD # 2 Over-view
BD #2 Side
BD #2 Top. On this one I see that the top is not very differentiated yet for me to be able to distinguish between where to pinch or where not to.
SLH #1 Over-view
SLH #1 Side (sry for blurr)
SLH #1 Top
SLH #2 Over-view
SLH #2 Side
SLH #2 Upper-Side
SLH # Top
ROOM
My point in this is to understand if the exact place to top is that little growth tip located between the latest and still forming pair of nodes.
Help is appreciated. The earlier I top, the lesser I can removefrom the growing tip, and much lesser is the caused stress.
Late to the party but subbed and best of damn luck 
- Thread starter
- #38
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
Yo LA, thanks for stopping by.
You came just in time. I'm in need of some help about "micro"topping these gals. I'm having some trouble to be 100% sure where to pinch. I see some new top growth that is V shaped (2 proto-stems pointing upwards). In between that V-shape there is some baby growth that has a "calyx" shape. Is that what I am supposed to pinch off?
Thanks in advance.
You came just in time. I'm in need of some help about "micro"topping these gals. I'm having some trouble to be 100% sure where to pinch. I see some new top growth that is V shaped (2 proto-stems pointing upwards). In between that V-shape there is some baby growth that has a "calyx" shape. Is that what I am supposed to pinch off?
Thanks in advance.
Its hard without pics etc and just still gotta catch up on here yet 
but when I micro top I open the immature foliage that points up vertically, then usually that next step down is the tiny heart just make sure its the tip of the stem and the size and when stuff doesn't matter so much. You will know yourself wether its a point developed enough to be manipulated into popping off or not!
I push or pull the bit I want off away and down slightly. If its at the correct point with support under this tip it shoul just pop off almost
but when I micro top I open the immature foliage that points up vertically, then usually that next step down is the tiny heart just make sure its the tip of the stem and the size and when stuff doesn't matter so much. You will know yourself wether its a point developed enough to be manipulated into popping off or not! I push or pull the bit I want off away and down slightly. If its at the correct point with support under this tip it shoul just pop off almost
- Thread starter
- #40
Groovy Bud
Well-Known Member
So I identify the "heart" and then squeeze the forceps close to its origin, and then pull or twist (which one)?
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