NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Here he's at it again, with that strange botanical alchemy!
InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time
- Thread starter
- #24,142
If at first you don't produce seed, try and try again!
Very short Monday update as it was a cold and rainy weekend. I did cut down a 30 year old lemon tree that was in a large pot (bigger than a half barrel) and replace it with one of my lemon tree clones. No pics of that though. I also sprayed the cannabis for PM because they're spending a lot of time inside touching each other and the sides of the tent. No pics of that either! So what are there pics of? Just some Candidas.
Here is one with pistils on flip day 15:
That's the alleged pollen recipient. And here is the tent this morning after the winter two got moved in the shed:
The two tall ones are the GA3 sprayed, the one between it is the one with pistils, and the other three are spares/mother plants.
I hope you all stayed warm and dry this weekend!
Any idea how much wood a woodchuck would chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?
Reave
Well-Known Member
Chuckable ammounts
- Thread starter
- #24,145
When you say "if," are you saying you're not sure that it's even possible? I was always acting under the city-boy assumption that woodchucks chucked wood as part of their nature.
Howdy Reave! Long time no see.
Maybe one day I'll introduce you to a Chuck. I forgot you're city. Shoulda gone with Peter Piper.When you say "if," are you saying you're not sure that it's even possible? I was always acting under the city-boy assumption that woodchucks chucked wood as part of their nature.
Howdy Reave! Long time no see.
Shed, please remind me what you use to avoid pm. I want to be better prepared for that possible event.
Reave
Well-Known Member
You would think lockdowns lead to more time to post, but no, the led to neglecting my plants and having too much work with kids at home while working. Made some adjustments now so hopefully I can get back to what I love doing.Howdy Reave! Long time no see.
- Thread starter
- #24,149
As long as you don't start questioning his ability to pipe. His picking skills can easily be challenged though.
Glad you asked Carmen! It's used to kill it when I see it, but I don't know if works as a preventative.
I use a 1% citric acid spray, made thusly:
500ml distilled water
5g food grade citric acid
4 pipette drops of dishwashing liquid
Scale up as needed
Mix vigorously and spray every square
In flower I go so far as to pull the buds away from the stems to really get the areas where PM likes to hide.
It's just nice to know you're still alive and kicking! I'm looking forward to seeing what you have growing. Hope everyone is well at your place.
Hey Shed and crew, can someone point me to the thread or discussions where the myth of auto-flowering plants being triggered to stop growing and flower when the taproot hits the bottom of the pot. I think there was a thread dedicated to it? Can’t find...
- Thread starter
- #24,151
I don't recall a thread to it, but I have posted a number of times that BeezLuiz gets his autos pretty rooty in solo cups before transplanting (no flowers there) and that flytier grew his autos in really tall homemade airpots that would flower even though the taproot never touched the bottom.
Here is BL's Lemon Potion auto on transplant day:
And here it is 4 days later, still no flowers:
Here is BL's Lemon Potion auto on transplant day:
And here it is 4 days later, still no flowers:
Thank you! It was the flytier thing I’m remembering the most, I think. I’ll drop this post over at bo’s, where the topic came up.
- Thread starter
- #24,153
Me again, looking for pest solutions. I don't have mites but a buddy does. Came in with a clone. Did this solution work for you or have you honed a treatment that you can recommend now?
Green Cleaner: The active ingredients of Soybean Oil (39%) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (19%) along with citric acid and isopropyl alcohol combine to make a potent treatment for russet mites, spider mites, mealybugs, powdery mildew and more!
That's a lot of oil, but here is Dr Bronner's castille soap, which doesn't list theirs by percentage: Water, Organic Coconut Oil, Potassium Hydroxide*, Organic Palm Kernel Oil, Organic Olive Oil, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Citric Acid, Tocopherol
*None remains after saponifying oils into soap & glycerin.
I wonder which of those oils washes off more easily, or break down in sunlight.
I'm using my clone mothers as guinea pigs so we'll see how it goes.
There was so much info over the last couple of pages that my head nearly exploded! It went from confusing STS measurements to auto roots in no time at all. GJOTY fo sure!
- Thread starter
- #24,156
Well...since then I have decided to stay away from anything containing oil if I have pistils, so what I recommend would depend on the stage of growth. If your buddy is outside (and therefore in flower), in the States I would recommend Safer's Insect KIlling Soap, but where you are it would be a product that contain "Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids 49.52%" or thereabouts. It works on a large variety of soft-bodied insects, mites included.
I spray it in the shade (or early morning) and then hose it off after an hour.
Our sponsor Sierra Natural Science has a mite spray as well that I haven't tried, but contains Polyglyceryl Oleate, and oleate is a form of oil.
What Is Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate? | Honest
Find out how Polyglyceryl-4-Oleate keeps it all together.
www.honest.com
Thanks Professor, and sorry about your head (thank god for "nearly")!
For the record, Chris is trying the STS on the Candida, but mine are sprayed with gibberellic acid (GA3).
It's interesting you wash it off after an hour. I think that's a good thing, when I sprayed a plant that had a mite/aphid issue the insecticide soap seemed to kill them very well but it appeared to spray out quite 'thick' and I wondered about the residue left on the plant. I think washing it off with water after an hour like you've suggested would probably better complete the treatment as an hour should be plenty of time to kill all the bugs that were going to be killed, and once dry it would no longer function to kill them. Good suggestion!
- Thread starter
- #24,158
Thanks Stunger! Glad to pass along what I've learned. This technique came from Felipe:It's interesting you wash it off after an hour. I think that's a good thing, when I sprayed a plant that had a mite/aphid issue the insecticide soap seemed to kill them very well but it appeared to spray out quite 'thick' and I wondered about the residue left on the plant. I think washing it off with water after an hour like you've suggested would probably better complete the treatment as an hour should be plenty of time to kill all the bugs that were going to be killed, and once dry it would no longer function to kill them. Good suggestion!
Shed, you've got a great filing retrieval system! 
smokesbetter
Well-Known Member
nice tid bit of info to know, was thinking of using this years veggies 
Similar threads
