Charlotte's Web - Organically Grown

What's a sulfur burn? Also, are you going to have this tested to know how much CBD you have in the buds? This may have been asked so sorry if that's the case.

A sulfer burner is a device that heats sulfer chips to a point where they evaporate into the air. They are used in greenhouses and grow units to keep bud rot and grey mold (caused from a disease called botrytis) under control. I've had a lot of problems with this disease over the past 3 months and wanted to try to prevent it this time. However, I just pulled 3 GDP plants due to mold and I just did a sulfer burn in that unit about a week ago, so I'm not sure if I'm going to keep doing this. I'll maybe just clean the unit top to bottom with bleach water.
If the money goes right (something else that's been a problem lately, with many of us I'm sure) I am going to get what's called a cannabinoid fingerprint kit. It's a kind of blotch test on a card and the bigger the blotch on the card is, the more of that specific cannabinoid is present in the sample. I'll post step by step pics of the process if and when I do it.
 
A sulfer burner is a device that heats sulfer chips to a point where they evaporate into the air. They are used in greenhouses and grow units to keep bud rot and grey mold (caused from a disease called botrytis) under control. I've had a lot of problems with this disease over the past 3 months and wanted to try to prevent it this time. However, I just pulled 3 GDP plants due to mold and I just did a sulfer burn in that unit about a week ago, so I'm not sure if I'm going to keep doing this. I'll maybe just clean the unit top to bottom with bleach water.
If the money goes right (something else that's been a problem lately, with many of us I'm sure) I am going to get what's called a cannabinoid fingerprint kit. It's a kind of blotch test on a card and the bigger the blotch on the card is, the more of that specific cannabinoid is present in the sample. I'll post step by step pics of the process if and when I do it.

now im not positive, but i believe that botrytis is mainly caused from Wine Grape Farms. if this is the disease im thinking of, it works in the favor of wine grape farmers making their grapes more sweet i believe is what i read. not 100% for sure but i do recall this disease.

you dont happen to live close to a wine grape farm or winery do you?

I&i


Edit : yep this is the one i was thinking of, if you live close to a wine farm your screwed. you need heavy filter systems coming into your grow area..

"Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, is a mold that causes grapes to lose nearly all of their water content. Wines made from botrytis-affected grapes are generally very sweet."
 
I drink some wines but not from around this area (if there are any). The soil and soilless companies do well to prevent problems, but the time these mixes stay in storage from the bulk buyers and the damp seasons in my opinion are the root cause. Notice how many people seem to have the problem at the same time? Many people that don't live anywhere near each other. The Spring causes an increase in the number of spores due to the prime weather conditions for reproduction (as well as the spores by nature coming out of Winter dormancy and doing their thing) I read in an article. But we're controlling our conditions indoors to a very good extent. I think the spores come from where the hydro shops get the products after the main companies produce them. Storage facilities that keep their products outdoors or maybe they live next door to Bartles and James I don't know but I'm getting frustrated at the problem. And once it gets here my damp conditions keep it here. :(
 
yea didnt mean to try and say that is the only place it comes from. me being close to what they call in washington "Wine Country" there is nothing but wine farms wherever you can look. so i am real cautious on what comes into my garden. ive never had a experience with it but im on the opposite side of where the wind blows through the wine farms. what do you do in the case of fungus? just cut the infested nug off or the entire plant is ruined?

I&i
 
ok makes sense. luckily that has never been one of my issues. seems spider mites are the worst up here in the mtns. not sure why but every time ive tried growing outside i get spider mites. so i just stopped, inside ive never had issues accept a few years back when we didnt really watch how dirty people were going into grow rooms. (dread locks, dirty fingernails from outside garden work, ect) as mentioned somewhere on this site in one of these forums

"everyone tends to hope that cannabis farmers are all in white lab coats, that is far from the case"

but i would love to someday have a grow tent that has a sanitation area before entering the main flower room. would be amazing!

I&i
 
Notes: I'll be setting up for that sulfer burn tomorrow morning. I'm doing my GDP S1 plant right now. There's no sign of bud rot or grey mold anywhere on these (unlike the GDP S1), but I'll go ahead and do a 6 hour elimination treatment instead of a 3 hour preventative treatment just to be sure. I'm going to give the plants molasses and a dose of mycos the next watering. They don't seem to be showing deficiencies at this point except the two less healthy ones. I should point out (at least for my own records) that those two plants are also showing overbreeding mutations (triple nodes, split branching). I'll get some pics up soon. I'll be ordering the cannabinoid fingerprint test kit in about 2-3 weeks to test this grow with, too. :peace:
 
Charlotte's Web - 4 weeks and 6 days of 12/12:

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This is going to be the first time I do a serious defoliation. I worry too much about a plant going hermie so I don't do it, but I can't see anything just below the tops and I get weak crap growth every time I let grows like this go. I did some already and I'll do some more tonight. Here's the sulfer burner I have going right now:

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I'm going to give all the plants mycos one more time and it'll be molasses feedings until I see the need for nutes (if the need arises; the soil has plenty of the Sierra Foothills mix left to feed off of). Gotta toke and tend some plants seeya! :tokin:
 
Well the idea that I had to not use CaMg+ because of the high amount of Ca in the Sierra Foothills mix wasn't a good idea. I'm going back to neutral mixes so I don't have to see the damage later and then figure out there's a problem. I'm going to add CaMg+ to these when the soil dries (still hasn't), mycos, molasses and nutes also to try to get them back inline. Actually the new growth looks decent, so if I get the problem under control I'll be okay and the defoliation I do will get rid of the damaged leaves. I really need to either expand this unit or quit putting so many plants in it, but certain strains need the defol for teh lower buds anyway. I'll take some pics tonight, :peace:
 
Note: I fed the plants 2 oz. of 0-5-5, 2 oz. of micronutrients, and 2 scoops of mycos tonight. The leaves on the top buds are brittle and have necrotic spotting over most of the surface. It seems like every time I use soil amendments I have problems. I should feed as if they weren't there. 20% Ca don't mean $hit if it don't chelate, and obviously it didn't. I'm going to feed every other time until chop from now on.
 
hey i am very interested in this Journal... Please keep us posted..
Also i wanted to ask one thing You were going to TEST the strain quality. So did you ordered the DEVICE to test the CBD and THC level?
Also please send me the link for high cbd strain selling website.
 
What I was going to use is a type of kit that tests levels chemically on a card (definitely not as accurate as the machine). The blotch size and color on the card indicates the levels of the different cannabinoids. It's called a cannabinoid fingerprint test kit.
When I know that the site I ordered the CBD strains from is legit, I'll send a link altainta. It's been over a month since I sent the money order in. and I haven't received them yet. I also sent the company an E-mail and haven't heard back from them. If I get ripped off, I don't want it to happen to someone else; hope you understand.
 
Thanks man I can't wait to give it a try too.
thats how i feel about the cannatonic im growing, im fortunate in that its a cut from a known tested plant so it has been tested to have 10.8 cbd and 3-5 thc

Note: I fed the plants 2 oz. of 0-5-5, 2 oz. of micronutrients, and 2 scoops of mycos tonight. The leaves on the top buds are brittle and have necrotic spotting over most of the surface. It seems like every time I use soil amendments I have problems. I should feed as if they weren't there. 20% Ca don't mean $hit if it don't chelate, and obviously it didn't. I'm going to feed every other time until chop from now on.
i know your pain, my solution is to cook the soil (in my case soil/coco) for a really long time i just uncovered a tote of soil i have had cooking since august last year, it was still damp and had an inch of mycellium on top and smell like soil heaven,im hoping it will need nothing but water and drenches to keep the energy up
i have found if you cook it at least 90 days with a hearty amount of mykos the herd will break the amendments down really well, im excited to try this year old cook \m/ oh the patience it took lol

What I was going to use is a type of kit that tests levels chemically on a card (definitely not as accurate as the machine). The blotch size and color on the card indicates the levels of the different cannabinoids. It's called a cannabinoid fingerprint test kit.
When I know that the site I ordered the CBD strains from is legit, I'll send a link altainta. It's been over a month since I sent the money order in. and I haven't received them yet. I also sent the company an E-mail and haven't heard back from them. If I get ripped off, I don't want it to happen to someone else; hope you understand.
thank you bruddah!
im glad i dont have to worry about this for cannatonic, my plan is to make fem seeds so i have little clone beans, so far every strain i have done the cs fem bean thing to has produced plants identical to the mother in everyway,
the charly web looks fantastic man i am having a little covet fest here lol:thumb:
 
That's it. That has to be it. Both other grows I did with amendment mixes (a mineralized and a super soil one) had the same results. I didn't give this mix any time for the mycos, and the other two had 3 weeks and 1 month. Thanks for the info BID; I didn't know it had to be that long, and with cooler temps where I grow and store my supplies I may have to go a bit longer. I'm going to use an idea I saw on Graytail's journal; cutting holes in the soil of these pots after harvesting and making them the same size as the pots I have my Zamal Reunion grow in.
 
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