Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

[CBDMed]

I'd forgotten about your char. Did you pre-charge it well?

Well, if I recall correctly (which is always a question), I think maybe what I did is that when I first put the supersoil together, I threw in some non-charged activated charcoal and Zeolyte. And maybe 10% extra worm castings (because I love the flavor).
Later I realized I had a huge aeration problem. I did a "tilth test" (crush test) with the supersoil slightly damp (just out of the garbage can), and it sat there like a lump. That was when the light bulb came on that I had a big aeration problem, and needed to add aeration...

In talking with @Bill284 about his method, RezDog said he always uses 60/40 with Perlite. So, I thought to use 50% rice hulls, because they are dirt cheap here (always a plus) and when they break down they leave silica (another plus).
Then I realized from other threads that it was not enough for my activated charcoal to be "activated", but that it must be charged as well

For charging, you suggested either soaking them in a bucket of urine or worm castings. RezDog said "no urine" (and I didn't know), so I put the REST of my LEFTOVER activated charcoal and zeolyte (which had not been mixed into the supersoil) in worm castings, covered lightly with water, and it is still soaking.

If I recall correctly, you said to remix the supersoil with a little more worm castings (and said something like "not more than [maybe] 12-15% worm castings overall". And then you wanted me to re-cook it for a few weeks.
So that is what I did.

 

[Azimuth]

So, your char could also be a part of your deficiency issues.

 

[CBDMed]

So, your char could also be a part of your deficiency issues.

Sí señor.
So, do I add the appropriate chelated liquid fertilizer to the rez until my char and my zeolyte are all topped off one sunny day in the future?

And does anyone know how long that might be??

(Or is there a better course of action?)

 

[cbdhemp808]

what is current rez pH?

 

[CBDMed]

what is current rez pH?

Good question!
I took the bobbledly-stick (dipstick) out of the rez, and put a drop on a test strip.
I was surprised to see it turn green, so I did it again.
Same answer.
I dunno, does it look like maybe just shy of an 8? :-(

 

[cbdhemp808]

I'd say it's very close to 8. Much too alkaline... looks like lockout is happening.

Hydroponics and Soilless recommended pH range: 5.5–6.5.**

"When growing in coco, perlite, or hydroponically, you are in charge of administering nutrients directly to the root zone via the water, which means huge pH fluctuations are more of a risk than in soil."**

You've gotta stay in the 5.5-6.5 range, because of the inter-dependence of nutrients. Super important nutes are locked out at pH 8, including sulfur, not shown on the chart. Sulfur is needed for N uptake.

**[ source ]

 

[CBDMed]

I'd say it's very close to 8. Much too alkaline... looks like lockout is happening.

Hydroponics and Soilless recommended pH range: 5.5–6.5.**

"When growing in coco, perlite, or hydroponically, you are in charge of administering nutrients directly to the root zone via the water, which means huge pH fluctuations are more of a risk than in soil."**

You've gotta stay in the 5.5-6.5 range, because of the inter-dependence of nutrients. Super important nutes are locked out at pH 8, including sulfur, not shown on the chart. Sulfur is needed for N uptake.

**[ source ]

It makes total sense. Thank you!
How would I bring the pH down organically, without introducing unwanteds?
(I can add lemon juice, but won't it go septic after a while?)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Sorry, I don't know about such things.

 

[CBDMed]

Sorry, I don't know about such things.

Well, thanks very much for the pH tip!
(I would not have thought about pH, because in my mind it is soil (only, it isn't really a "soil grow", is it??).

I have Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV). That would seem unlikely to spoil...

Is there someone who knows how to bring down rez pH in an organic way?
@StoneOtter @InTheShed

 

[InTheShed]

If you're running soil then you would lower the pH of the soil (not the res) using sulfur. If you're running coco you would lower the pH by lowering the pH of your water before you fill the res.

Runoff pH in soil doesn't tell you anything. If you think you have a soil pH issue then a slurry test would be in order.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I think Shed is touching on this... So, I see another potential problem for SIP growers and newbie SIPers...

I totally understand the purpose of the reservoir. But one problem is that there's a lot going on for the root system above the reservoir. Cannabis has a lot of roots in the first inches from the top surface of the soil. So in my mind, the medium also needs to be periodically watered (microbes are of course also involved). This then brings up the issue of the runoff from the medium going into the reservoir, affecting pH of the rez water. In my mind, I can't see the logic of providing water (and nutes) only in the reservoir.

Again, from the NIH article:

During the composting of raw rice husk (initial pH-7.1) in the earliest stage, the pH value decreased to 6.1 due to production of organic acids derived from the intense fermentation. Afterward, the pH began to rise and reached 8.6 at the thermophilic period.

The amount of rice hulls in your medium could be causing it to be too alkaline.

So, quite a bit of complexity here... something for the SIP experts to comment on.

 

[CBDMed]

If you're running soil then you would lower the pH of the soil (not the res) using sulfur. If you're running coco you would lower the pH by lowering the pH of your water before you fill the res.

Runoff pH in soil doesn't tell you anything. If you think you have a soil pH issue then a slurry test would be in order.

Thanks, @InTheShed !
I am sure I can YouTube a slurry test.
Only, where do I sample?
Do I dig it out of my existing buckets :-(
Or can I use some of the supersoil that is still cooking in the garbage can?

 

[CBDMed]

I think Shed is touching on this... So, I see another potential problem for SIP growers and newbie SIPers...

I totally understand the purpose of the reservoir. But one problem is that there's a lot going on for the root system above the reservoir. Cannabis has a lot of roots in the first inches from the top surface of the soil. So in my mind, the medium also needs to be periodically watered (microbes are of course also involved). This then brings up the issue of the runoff from the medium going into the reservoir, affecting pH of the rez water. In my mind, I can't see the logic of providing water (and nutes) only in the reservoir.

Again, from the NIH article:



The amount of rice hulls in your medium could be causing it to be too alkaline.

So, quite a bit of complexity here... something for the SIP experts to comment on.

Yes, I agree. I was told that rice hulls were "mostly inert", so they seemed like a good cheap substitute for perlite (leading to silica)...except maybe "more is not always better"?
Perhaps I would have done a lot better had I used maybe 10% rice hulls, and 30% Perlite.
My only comment on the above is that with a full res, it gets damp to within an inch of the surface. Once the little coty-girls stand up, they don't need any watering from there.

 

[InTheShed]

The amount of rice hulls in your medium could be causing it to be too alkaline.

This is why mixing your own soil without knowing how the ingredients will interact makes the resulting grow a potential crapshoot! Properly made soil should have a pH in the mid 6s and not need pH adjusted water.

Thanks, @InTheShed !
I am sure I can YouTube a slurry test.
Only, where do I sample?
Do I dig it out of my existing buckets :-(
Or can I use some of the supersoil that is still cooking in the garbage can?

Here's how you do a slurry test. It requires distilled water and a calibrated pH meter to work, and this is how to do it:
• Take samples from a few different places where there are roots (dig down a bit rather than just use the top - I often stick a spoon down the outside edge of the pot to grab some from there as well)
• Add an equivalent amount of distilled water as grams of soil (10 grams of soil, add 10ml water). If that doesn't make a slurry, use enough distilled water to make a stirrable-but-thick slurry.
• Stir it up, wait 15 minutes, stir again. Do that for an hour and then put your calibrated pH stick in the water. That's the pH of your medium.

You can run it on the cooked stuff in the can to get an idea of what you're working with.

 

[cbdhemp808]

You are early in the grow... any chance you could start over with your medium and use coco coir and perlite instead of rice hulls? If it was me, I'd use my custom soil mix with plenty of organic ferts added, and optimal pH. I would nurture that organic, living soil. I wouldn't rely on trying to fertigate into the reservoir... too complicated. The reservoir would be replenished with both runoff and direct watering with plain, pure water. I would apply your high-N liquid fert directly to the medium.

 

[CBDMed]

This is why mixing your own soil without knowing how the ingredients will interact makes the resulting grow a potential crapshoot!

:-(

Properly made soil should have a pH in the mid 6s and not need pH adjusted water.

Siiii....
I was told that rice hulls were "mostly inert." I had not seen @cbdhemp808 's paper yet.

Here's how you do a slurry test. It also requires distilled water

No got. I can *maybe get some in a few days, but I am on project deadline until.

and a calibrated pH meter

Woosh. I think maybe I have a pH pen around here somewhere, but I would have to find it, and we are on deadline for a couple of days.

to work, and this is how to do it:
• Take samples from a few different places where there are roots (dig down a bit rather than just use the top - I often stick a spoon down the outside edge of the pot to grab some from there as well)
• Add an equivalent amount of distilled water as grams of soil (10 grams of soil, add 10ml water). If that doesn't make a slurry, use enough distilled water to make a stirrable-but-thick slurry.
• Stir it up, wait 15 minutes, stir again. Do that for an hour and then put your calibrated pH stick in the water. That's the pH of your medium.

You can run it on the cooked stuff in the can to get an idea of what you're working with.

Woosh!
The last time I did a slurry test, I took a spoonfull of dirt and mixed a little well water into it, and it worked.
Here we have (literally) creek water in the pipes. (I am not yet even sure if they treat it! Lol.)
Maybe in the morning I can take a sample of the supersoil from the cooking (garbage) can??

Or I can dig down the sides of the 5g.

 

[CBDMed]

You are early in the grow... any chance you could start over with your medium and use coco coir and perlite instead of rice hulls? If it was me, I'd use my custom soil mix with plenty of organic ferts added, and optimal pH. I would nurture that organic, living soil. I wouldn't rely on trying to fertigate into the reservoir... too complicated. The reservoir would be replenished with both runoff and direct watering with plain, pure water. I would apply your high-N liquid fert directly to the medium.

I know you're talking sense, but you are hurting me. I need to sleep now. In the morning I can try to do a basic Farmer Juan slurry test on the supersoil in the tub, and see what we get.
And I can also dig down the sides of one of the SIPs with a smaller girl in it.
Or if necessary, I can also dig down on the sides of that particular girl tomorrow (but I hope not, because I don't want to bug her any more than necessary, since she is showing pistils).

I can hypothetically buy all different soil, and use that rice hull supersoil for something else.
Neither the bulk coco coir nor the bulk perlite here is certified. It is cheap, and the vendors all have 4.8 star ratings and such, so probably it is good (but no guarantees). It is grey Ag perlite, if that makes a difference.
But before I do anything, I would want to do a few soil tests.
But realistically, guys, I love growing cannabis, but I have cheap access to RSO and 1:1 concentrates, and I have been working on this project for 30 years, and I can't drop the ball. The whole team is counting on me--so as much as I love this stuff, I've got to focus elsewhere until I get my deliverable sent off (probably tomorrow night late).

Thanks for everything! Right now I need to get some sleep. Hopefully tomorrow I can slurry.
Thanks.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I can hypothetically buy all different soil, and use that rice hull supersoil for something else.
Neither the bulk coco coir nor the bulk perlite here is certified. It is cheap, and the vendors all have 4.8 star ratings and such, so probably it is good (but no guarantees). It is grey Ag perlite, if that makes a difference.

Sorry, I'm definitely not wanting to bum you out... trying to save you further hurt. It would be good to hear from @Azimuth and other SIP growers.

It sounds like you can get decent coir and perlite locally – that's great. Coir is the bomb... worst case scenario is the coir has too much salt, but you can overcome that by washing it and buffering with calcium. Wash until rinse water has low ppm. Grey perlite should be just fine – make sure it's fine or medium-fine grade. Some companies sell a mixture of find, medium, and coarse – that would work, too.

 

[InTheShed]

I took a spoonfull of dirt and mixed a little well water into it, and it worked.

You got a result but it wasn't the pH of the soil!

Maybe in the morning I can take a sample of the supersoil from the cooking (garbage) can??

Or I can dig down the sides of the 5g.

I really recommend waiting until you get distilled or deionized (whatever that is) water. Otherwise you're not reading what you think you are.

 

[Azimuth]

Given your time constraints and other priorities you could just limp along with this grow and chalk it up to a learning experience. The rice hull soil will probably be great once it finishes cooking but unfortunately for you you're doing that with a plant in it which is likely throwing lots of things off.

SIPs work great with most standard setups but that is not what you have there. I'd probably try to get some N in there and see how it goes, but trying to adjust the pH of the soil at this stage while it is cooking is going to introduce other issues with the cooking process. That's why 'cooking' an organic soil is done before the grow to let all of that activity settle and the mix to become integrated.

I think trying to fix that is going to complicate things and simply provide you with something else that also needs fixing which is above your pay grade at this stage of your growing career.