DrCannaCanadian: MarsHydro & Seedsman, Soil & Coco, 2020

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


How To Perform The Main-lining Technique
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Learn the main-lining training method to drastically increase your yields. It is surprisingly simple and incredibly effective. Best of all? You won't need to buy anything fancy.

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Main-lining is a training technique that has gained lots of popularity in recent years. It sometimes also goes by the name “manifolding” or even “fluxing.” The ultimate goal, like with other techniques, is to train your plant into making better use of the grow space, coaxing it into producing higher yields.

When properly executed, main-lining will permit you to grow indoors just like you would with a ScrOG net, only without the net. This is a blessing in tight grow spaces.

In practical terms, main-lining is a mix between LST, topping and a ScrOG net.

The idea behind this training technique is quite ingenious and offers many benefits to the growth pattern and vigor of your plants. The process involves training your seedling into producing a stem that looks like a manifold with a main Y-shaped split; subsequently, you replicate this process on newer growths during the vegetative period. This results in doubling the number of main colas. Theoretically, you can keep doubling these colas for as long as you like, producing as many as 4, 8, 16, 32...

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SYMMETRY IS KING

The other benefit of main-lining is controlling apical dominance. In the same way that you can be right or left handed, plants tend to favor the point closer to the light source and invest growth in that shoot. This involves a tight hormonal balance within the plant’s physiology that you can easily manipulate with just a bit of string or wire.

If you see that one shoot is growing at faster rate than the others, instead of topping it to slow it down, you can simply tie it below the height of the next best shoot and the plant will redirect its energy to the secondary main shoot. Keep doing this to create an even canopy.

In this way, you can effectively trick the plant into balancing its energy between the main shoots, producing a beautiful and robust bush.

We suggest starting from seed because one of the key components to a successful main-line is symmetrical, opposite branch-node growth. As plants reach sexual maturity, they may start alternating branch-nodes. It is very common for clones to start alternating quickly after rooting. If your goal is to achieve top performance from main-lining, definitely start from seed.

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CREATING THE MANIFOLD

Main-lining is all about symmetry. Starting from seed, you should top the plant after the third internode. This will create a Y-shaped stem right off the bat. Give it a few days to recover, then gently remove all the foliage below.

You will now have two main shoots. Tie them down, gently. Remember, it is all too easy to snap a branch off, so exercise caution. Massage the stem to loosen it up a bit and go slow. Try to bring the two stems down in such a way that it grows out horizontally.

After a short period of growth, you can repeat the process. This will render you with 4 main stems. If you wanted, you could keep going to produce 16, 32 or 64 main colas! But that is not practical at all and will only increase your veg time to a point that it is simply not worth it. Ideally, you should stop topping altogether around week 3.

From here on, there is not much else to do, except for the usual plant tending practices. You will immediately notice how much less work you need to do.

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THAT’S ALL, FOLKS

There is nothing more to it, really. Flip them to flower and prepared to be amazed.

The main advantage of this technique is that all the stress is applied very early on in the plant’s life cycle. From here on, you just sit back and relax. When the flowering stretch occurs, there is no longer a need for added stress, such as bending, topping or super-cropping. While these techniques do have their merits, they considerably increase the ripening and harvest times, suddenly forcing the plant to re-program itself and direct energy to other branches.

You will notice with main-lining that you make better use of your lights as canopy distribution is much more even. It is also far less likely that your plants will experience bud rot since this method promotes more efficient airflow.

The occurrence of “popcorn” buds is astonishingly reduced as well. As the early flowering stretch happens, there are no lower branches desperate for light. This means no more of those pesky, long branches that seem to promise a few extra grams, but are just a waste of water, nutrients and light. All that energy will be better concentrated on the stars of the show, the main fat colas and large dense buds surrounding them.

NO NET NEEDED

As mentioned earlier, with main-lining there is no need for a ScrOG net. With this training technique, plants suffer quite a bit early on, tending to overcompensate by engorging the main stems massively. The thicker stems, along with the tie-down training, will make plants look like heavyweight lifting champions. A ScrOG net is used to open up the canopy and serve as support, but it is normal for tops to simply fall over.

With main-lining, this tends not to happen. Branches are not bent over to open up the plant, but shoot straight up and become perfectly balanced. This is a huge plus in the grow room. Now you can walk freely around pots to tend to your plants, without being on all fours and complaining about your back shortly after.

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HARVESTING

Last but not least, the joy of harvest. Plants that undergo main-lining become surprisingly easy to trim. The big colas and huge buds will be so dense that a quick snip around the edges will leave you with a top-shelf-worthy manicure. Long gone are the days of frustratingly snipping away leaves to make the best use of all produce. With main-lining, some growers report cutting down trimming time by whopping 75% with some strains.

If it sounds too fantastical to you, it’s because you haven't tried it. It is probably one of the easiest techs in the business and one of the older underground grower's secrets. Just remember the two key points. Use quality seeds and keep the symmetry. You will be astonished by the results.

 

[PCaddict]

I guess you like Royal Queen seeds. Lots of good info in this journal. I must admit I haven't read all of it but its great to have all this info to reference later and read up on. I have skimmed through a lot of it though. Where are you copying all this from I would like to find it. Can you hyper link it if you don't mind

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020


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If you head west down the trail from Johnson's Beach, you will run right into Heritage Park. Well, Heritage Park is just South of the downtown Barrie core, so there is a lot that goes on there.

Right now, Barrie is in the process of wrapping up the festival of lights, and getting ready for Winterfest! Another great time featuring hand-made ice sculptures! It's going to be tons of fun this year!

Well, we all know Scotland has the Lochness Monster - but Barrie has "Kempenfelt Kelly", the friendly dragon who guards the bay and keeps the boaters safe!

Here are the pictures from our walk today - Enjoy!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 21, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

Friendly Kempenfelt Kelly.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 21, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

Looking South over Kempenfelt Bay from Heritage Park.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 21, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

You can sit by the fire and warm up with a hot chocolate!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


How To Deal With Tall, Stretchy Cannabis Seedlings​

Seedlings are programmed to survive, so if they are stretching, they are stressing. Learn how to fix this occurrence and prevent it from happening in the future.

​

Just like baby newborns, seedlings are very delicate things. They need as much tender loving care as possible. And in the case of our beloved cannabis plant, the best form of TLC is to provide it with ideal environmental conditions.

THE SEEDLING STAGE

Seeds are like little genetic time-capsule bombs. What this means is that they only have one job, and only get one chance to pull it off. They are pre-programmed to survive. A seed self-contains absolutely everything a future plant needs to get started. Once activated with moisture and darkness, it will trigger germination, and once that gets going, there is no turning back.

A seedling does not need any food for the first good few days of its life. From its genetics, it is already backpacking all the essential nutrients needed to embrace the miracle of life. Seedlings have a little reserve to help establish themselves in their growing environment.

In optimal conditions, the seed shell, or husk, will crack open and a taproot will pop out, immediately digging further down in search of a water lifeline. Soon, you will see a sprout rise from the under the soil, spread out its first baby leaves (cotyledons), and then you will start noticing the first set of true leaves. Leaves have an equally important job as the taproot, but they are in search of another food source - light. Quite literally, a plant uses light to digest what it brings up from the soil.

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WHAT CAUSES ABNORMAL STRETCHING?

Abnormal stretching in the seedling phase is a sign of stress. By far, the most common situation that causes seedlings to stretch and topple over is light deprivation.

In the same way a taproot digs for water and nutrients, the top part of the plant will stretch vigorously if it is not receiving enough light. It is a survival mechanism. It will use up all its stored energy to rise above competing flora. In the case of indoor growing, there is no competition, but the seedling will perceive it this way. For instance, leaving the pot under a windowsill in the shade will likely trigger this behaviour.

This may seem a bit confusing for new indoor growers, as they may think they are providing more than enough light to their plants. But consider the following. Positioning a 200W metal halide bulb very far away from the pot will be less effective than a 20W CFL bulb a few inches away from the leaf surface.

Seedlings have very little leaves. The total surface area in which to absorb light is very small. So, in essence, that 200W bulb will be radiating over a very large area, but the seedling can only use a minute fraction of it. The CFL position right over the plant will be able to give most of its 20W directly.

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HOW TO FIX THIS?

Luckily, there is no major harm done if the situation is dealt with quickly. Some people opt to stick a support stake (a straw, pencil, chopstick) until the plant grows out enough to support itself. This works, but is not the optimal solution.

A better technique is to gently scoop out the plant from the medium, being very careful not to harm the little roots. You then proceed to dig a much bigger hole and replant the seedling in deeper, making sure to bury most of the overgrown stem. With time, the buried stem will start shooting roots.

Give your babies direct sunlight, not shade. If growing indoors, lower your lights if possible. Just be sure that potential heat stress is not a problem. HID lights may be too heat-strong for seedlings if you set them too close. Lower-powered LED or CFL may be a better option at this stage.

You will soon notice how the first set of leaves start growing. The young plant is now happy and able to photosynthesise. It now triggered leaf grow and not stem growth. All the energy is directed to produce chlorophyll, which in turn promotes even more photosynthesis.

The young plant now has all the right ingredients to achieve its full potential.

 

[weenmeoff]

Hey Dr. CC! I'll pull up a chair in the back. On quick skim, looks like lots of great info so I'll need to come back later and catch up.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Hey Dr. CC! I'll pull up a chair in the back. On quick skim, looks like lots of great info so I'll need to come back later and catch up.

Hey @weenmeoff , the back row is great - and pop in whenever you can find the time.

I love combining theory with practice, so I give kudos to our Royal Queen Seeds sponsor, centralize articles here for my ease of use, then use the articles as links when I'm helping out in the FAQ section answering questions.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


How to Control Stretching: Reigning in Cannabis Growth Spurts​

Stretching is a natural growth-spurt for cannabis plants, but is known to adversely affect the outcome of a crop. We delve into what causes stretching in the first place and how to prevent it from taking over your grow room.

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There are few things more frustrating than an overcrowded grow room. “Stretching,” the term used to describe the rapid growth of cannabis stems, is a natural part of the vegetative stage and is influenced by plant genetics, among other variables.

Unfortunately, stretching is a common perpetrator of low yields and lanky plants, resulting in teetering, physically unstable crops. Despite the threat it poses, stretching can be controlled by first examining the factors influencing its growth, then creating protocol to sidestep these issues. Controlling cannabis stretching requires an understanding of how plants interact with both their internal and external environments.

WHY DO PLANTS STRETCH?

There are several reasons why plants stretch, one of which has to do with the strains themselves. Genetics plays a pivotal role in determining the eventual height of sativas, indicas and hybrids. Whereas most indica strains are bred to grow shorter and bushier, sativas often experience significant stretching, sometimes growing six feet or higher in some breeds.

While stretching isn’t harmful in and of itself, dramatic stem growth carries the potential of significantly lowering the crop’s final yield between 20-30% overall. When considering strains for your next home grow, research the common height of each variety you plan to grow in order to gauge whether or not the strain experiences a dramatic flowering stretch.

LIGHT EXPOSURE

One of the main culprits of inordinate stretching of cannabis plants is lack of light exposure. Plants that are too far away from an adequate light source will respond by spurring stem growth to move themselves closer to the lamp. Especially in the presence of many other plants, sparse lighting can easily cause a grow room to become severely overcrowded, throwing off the steady progress of your crop and the ratio of distance between bulbs and plants.

In response to this issue, be sure to provide enough light to quell stem growth. At the same time, you don’t want to position your lights too close to your plants, as this will also result in overstretched stems and in some cases, lost yield.

In addition to distance between the source and the plant, the kind of light being used also holds influence over the amount your crop will stretch. Orange and red light encourages stretching and results in thinner, taller stems. Conversely, blue light stimulates thicker stem growth and a shorter height therein. When a strain is ready to enter the vegetative stage and undergo its most drastic period of stretching, metal halide lamps can be used to discourage extra-long stems.

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HEAT

Heat is another pivotal element that can determine how much plants will stretch during vegetation. Temperatures reaching over 27 degrees push stems to grow longer and longer and will propel sativas to their full height potential. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to the plants creates an intolerable environment that will rouse tall, wobbly plants, which are likely to fall over and potentially lose flowers in the process.

OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING

There are numerous variables that can lead to plants stretching beyond what is normally expected from the strain. Significant environmental stressors resulting from transplant may cause the plant to go into shock. This will then trigger a reaction, causing it to stretch. Cannabis plants that are not properly cultivated under decent conditions or aren’t receiving satisfactory nutrition will respond in a number of adverse forms, including stretching.

Crops that are not spaced far away enough from one another are likely to stretch as a result of competition for resources. Due to extreme proximity, plants will fight each other to reach the light, forcing growth throughout the crop.

HOW TO CONTROL FLOWERING STRETCH

Flowering stretch, you guessed it, takes place when you switch your plants over from veg to bloom. This is a completely normal response as your plants prepare themselves to support the weight of their buds.

How much a plant stretches at the beginning of flowering varies a lot; some plants might double in height while others only grow a few centimetres. There are two main variables, however, that can give you at least some idea of whether your plants will stretch during bloom, and how much. These are:

• Strain: Genetics have the biggest impact on your plant’s size. Generally speaking, sativa strains stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, lanky stems.

• Lights: Certain lights, like HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. Moreover, large distances between your canopy and your lights will cause plants to stretch as they attempt to get closer to the light source.

The flowering stretch usually lasts for the first two weeks of the phase. To minimise stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) from your canopy. Also, stick to indica strains if you’ve got a smaller grow space.

HOW TO PREVENT STRETCHING

In many cases, you can account for at least some stretching to occur in the flowering stage of your cannabis plants. With this is mind, it’s helpful to establish a plan in case you're strain ends up growing higher than you imagined. If the information is available, obtain the average reported height of your strain and compare it to your grow room dimensions, considering the necessary distance between bulbs and plants.

CIRCULATION

While outdoor grow-ops benefit from the presence of the open air to naturally limit stretching, indoor operations are tasked with the tough assignment of maintaining air circulation inside a closed space. Sufficient airflow helps cannabis stems strengthen and grow thicker, rather than taller. This way, plants still grow vigorously, without reaching nerve-wracking heights.

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MANUAL INTERVENTION

For those cultivators looking to get their hands dirty, there are physical intervention methods that can be taken to reduce over-stretching. Similar to the natural effect wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny tears in plant tissue that will cause the plant to focus its attention on stem regeneration instead of vertical growth.

TOPPING

Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to affect its yield, shape or size. In essence, topping is the process of cutting of a new, actively growing node from your plant in order to reduce its size and create a “v” shape that will then form two colas. Topping can be an effective measure for combating stretching, but it’s important not to top once the flowering stage begins.

In most cases, unexpected stretching from cannabis plants won’t destroy your yield entirely. In fact, stretching can actually help to increase your yield. For cultivators with sizeable grow rooms that can sustain tall plants, stretching may actually increase a strain’s total yield with more vertical surface area for colas to form. Either way, stretching can be easily prepared for in advance and there are a number of different solutions to help with this all-too-common problem.

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[DrCannaCanadian]

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020


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Doing this is helping with my depression - it gets me out of the house to do some walking. Some days used to get really bad, where my brain was just screaming "Go back to bed!". I'm not sure if any of you suffer from this illness, but depression can really Frick with your mind!

Anyway, I walked around Heritage Park again today. The city has closed off part of the parking lot to start setting up for the ice sculpturists who are going to show up and carve their magic out of ice.

Just north of Heritage Park is the new covered concert stage where busters can play music, the city can show movies, actors can put on a live show, and it's a great place to put the Christmas tree!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

Just north of Heritage Park is the new covered concert stage where busters can play music, the...

If you ever decide to come for a visit in your boat, you can easily drop anchor at the new marina.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

If you ever decide to come for a visit in your boat, you can easily drop anchor at the new marina.

And you'll always know what time it is with this clock that the Barrie Rotary Club just donated. Thanks BRC!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

And you'll always know what time it is with this clock that the Barrie Rotary Club just donated...

 

[PCaddict]

I suffer with depression too. I know walking can really help. walking outside is best but not too comfortable this time of year with it being so cold out now. Cannabis helps more then what the doctors give you. I hope you get it straightened out I know it Really Sucks and for people who do not suffer from it really cant imagine what its like but my best description is it is a living nightmare without escape

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update

Vegetation - Day 11​

Hey 420!

The plants are growing awesome!

And the good news today is: the two HSO Chemdawg seedlings are now above soil trying to straighten out and get those cotyledons to start soaking up the rays! And well, this goes without saying, the only good "dawg" I know in Star Wars is Chewy - and Chewy definitely needs Han Solo around to watch his back!

The Seedsman Peyote WiFi are growing much better than I expected - we've definitely got two good phenotypes here!

We have about three weeks before we find out if any of the Tangie Cookies are male - it is going to be so cool to collect pollen and fertilize some female branches!

I'm feeding the two Peyote WiFi about once every 24 hours. They are still young and at risk of over watering!

Also, I'm feeding the smaller seedlings with foliar spray; and I like to wait for the solo cups to dry out before I fully water them so the roots grow better.

We really are focused on root growth and stem strengthening at this phase of the grow!!!

Alright, here's the gang living it up Mars Hydro style:

Dagobah Frost Forest - Group Photo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman

Group Photo - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Princess Leia

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Obi-Wan Kenobi

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Emperor Sidius

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Darth Maul

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Rey

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• mars hydro seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 11

Dagobah Frost Forest - Chewbacca

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 22, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro seedsman

Chemdawg - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 11

 

[Backlipslide]

It’s neat to see pictures of where your from. As I’ve never been to the east coast and never get to see the landscape out there!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

It’s neat to see pictures of where your from. As I’ve never been to the east coast and never get to see the landscape out there!

I'm glad you're enjoying the pictures, because I'm really enjoying getting out for the walks and the fresh air.

How's the weather up in Alberta these days? A lot better than Newfoundland I hope - they got hit real hard!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


The Marijuana Plant Anatomy​

Growers, medicinal users, and ordinary decent stoners need to know the anatomy of the cannabis plant. Just like fresh fruit and vegetables, it pays to know the basics. Otherwise, you might return home from shopping with green bananas and rotten tomatoes.

You don’t need a degree in botany, but it helps to know some phytotomy essentials. Like, if you’re wasting your time cultivating male plants or how to spot a hermaphrodite. Or if you’ve been wondering what exactly is a calyx anyway? All this and more we shall endeavour to answer.

Let’s take a look at all the parts of the cannabis plant from root to flower. Plus, we will explain every part's function in relatable terms.

ROOTS

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Beneath the surface of the growing medium, the roots are busy simultaneously anchoring and drawing nutrients into the cannabis plant. The root zone consists of a single tap root, that will develop many secondary roots until it becomes a fibrous mass.

Roots are part of the vascular system of the cannabis plant. Internally the xylem is responsible for pumping water and minerals from the roots to the rest of the plant. Think of the xylem as the marijuana plumbing system.

COTYLEDON LEAVES

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A cotyledon is an embryonic leaf that occurs in seed-bearing plants. Cotyledons are formed during embryogenesis alongside root and shoot meristems. This primordial growth is the first leaf set to appear after germination takes place. The green appearance of cotyledons is an indication of the presence of chlorophyll, allowing the small leaves to conduct photosynthesis in the early stages of growth. Soon after, the first set of true leaves will emerge. Cannabis is classed as a dicotyledon, a flowering plant with an embryo that bears two cotyledons. However, abnormal growth can lead to the growth of 3 or even 4 cotyledons.

MAIN STEM AND BRANCHES

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The main stem emerges from the root and supports the cannabis plant growing vertically. Naturally, the stem is the primary vascular highway, carrying the water and minerals from the roots. It’s also integrated with the phloem, to be discussed later. Secondary growth emerges from the main stem from what is called a leaf node.

Branching occurs in pairs from a leaf node on either side of the stem. The distance between sets of branches is referred to as the internode spacing. Generally, indica-dominant varieties have shorter internode spacing than sativa-leaning varieties.

Occasionally, mutations can give rise to irregular branching. Mutant cannabis plants can still be potent and productive, although most growers remove them immediately. We say if they look healthy, live and let live.

FAN LEAVES

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Fan leaves also adhere to symmetry and grow in pairs from the main stem and branches. The fan leaves also help to distinguish between indica and sativa marijuana. Dark, wide leaves for indica and light green, lean slender fingers for sativa’s, is the rule of thumb. Hybrids are a blend of the two.

More importantly, the fan leaves act like the solar panels of the cannabis plant. They soak up all the light available, and internally the phloem transports the energy throughout the rest of the plant. Think of the phloem as similar to the electrical wiring in the walls of your home.

Fan leaves are essential to photosynthesis and should never be pruned excessively. Shade leaves can be removed late in bloom if blocking lower bud sites.

THE CANNABIS FLOWER-DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE PLANTS

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A cola is simply the flowering top of the female cannabis plant. Of course, topping or the application of LST or the ScrOG method will give rise to multiple tops. Nevertheless, the main top buds are all considered colas. Buds and nuggs are simply cover-all terms for all flowers, that emerge from bud sites throughout the stems. Look for a white hair emerging from the leaf node in pre-flower to confirm a female cannabis plant.

Male plants do not produce bud when they flower, which is usually a couple of weeks sooner than females. The male cannabis plants will not necessarily be the largest, most vigorous plants in the garden either. Males produce stamens with anthers packed with pollen.

It is always wise to postpone jumping to conclusions until pre-flowers can be discerned. If the white hair is absent and a cluster of grapes begins to protrude, then a male is present.

CALYXES EXPLAINED

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Buds are not just a tangled mess of leaves and gooey resin. Calyxes are the tiny clusters shaped like a tear drop, that constitutes a cannabis bud. Leaves will grow from between and around the calyxes. The elusive **calyx is most visible to the naked eye in the later stages of flowering as buds begin to swell.

Only non-pollinated flowers bloom abundantly. Should the pistil get pollinated, then the calyx below becomes the ovary. This changes the function to seed incubator.

Some buds can be really hard with compact groupings of many tiny calyxes; others can have larger calyxes in a looser formation. Generally, indica influence is what gives most cannabis its tight appearance. Only heirloom landrace pure sativa strains produce a very airy wispy flower.

PISTILS NOT “HAIRS”

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Pistils are what are commonly known as the “hairs” on nuggs. Pistils help you identify female plants in the cannabis garden. Prior to flowering, females will display the odd pistil from leaf nodes to tip off the grower.

During the flowering period, they will transition in colour from white to orange/red as the bud ripens. These pistils are actually the female plant’s reproductive organs containing the ovules.

The pistils are primarily outgrowths from calyxes and essentially serve to capture pollen. The female cannabis plant wants to be fertilised and so long as she is denied this during bloom, flower production will be her focus.

CANNABIS RESIN

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Trichomes are the glistening gooey resinous coat, that covers all fine cannabis buds. As flowering progresses, calyxes and surrounding sugar leaves will become covered in fields of tiny mushroom capped stalks. These heads will transition in colour from clear to white to amber during blooming.

The trichs are what it’s all about, because these are the microscopic cannabinoid factories, that give cannabis buds the effects we all know and love. Hashish and all of your favourite concentrates are extracted trichomes.

DANGER! POLLEN IN THE GARDEN

There will be trouble in the ganja forest if pollen gets into the pistils of flowering female cannabis plants. Moreover, male cannabis plants have stamen instead of pistils and they produce pollen sacs, that contain, you guessed it, pollen.

These anthers or pollen sacs will hang down and are usually green/yellowish in colour. Hermaphrodites display these green/yellowish pollen sacs too, usually popping out amongst clusters of flowers. These are what we call “nanners”.

If a plant displays pollen sacs, it must go immediately or the rest of the weed will be seeded. Identify and remove males/hermies post-haste. Stress can be a contributory factor to the emergence of intersex traits, so make sure the grow op is dialled in.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds

Photosynthesis, The Process That Makes Cannabis Grow​

Photosynthesis is so important to cannabis cultivation. Sinsemilla simply cannot survive without the process. In this blog, we break down the role photosynthesis plays throughout the cannabis life cycle. Whether you grow marijuana indoors or outdoors, you need to check this out.

​

WHAT IS PHOTOSYNTHESIS?

Photosynthesis is how algae, cyanobacteria, and plants convert light into chemical energy. There are actually two kinds of photosynthesis: oxygenic and anoxygenic photosynthesis. Since the latter does not produce oxygen and is mostly limited to bacteria, we’ll focus on oxygenic photosynthesis for the duration of this article.

During oxygenic photosynthesis, the cannabis plant absorbs carbon dioxide and light. These inputs are processed by plants like a biological factory into energy or carbohydrates for the plant to grow, releasing oxygen as a by-product.

Cannabis plants, like other plants, contain chlorophyll; it’s what gives them their green colour. More importantly, the pigmentation is the key to how cannabis plants use their leaves like solar panels. Chlorophyll traps blue and red-spectrum light.

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WHAT DO PAR AND PPFD MEAN?

Photosynthetically Active Radiation, or PAR, is a measure for the available light that a plant can actually make use of. Visible light is the spectral bracket 400–700nm. PPFD or Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density readings in micromoles per second (μmol/s) quantify the photons falling on the plant. OK, that’s enough science. The key point is that PAR and PPFD are more accurate measurements of the usable wavelengths and spectrums of light. Most LED lighting systems are marketed based on PAR and PPFD data.

WHAT IS A LUMEN?

In contrast to LED systems, most HID grow lamps, whether MH or HPS, are sold on brightness. Lumens are a measure of how bright a lamp is. It’s not really specific enough to tell you everything you need to know, but it helps when choosing between the specialist horticulture agro-lamps available these days. Unfortunately, cannabis plants can’t photosynthesise as efficiently with old-school yellow lamps as with full-spectrum LED. This is why a 300–400W LED is comparable to a 600W HPS.

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HOW MANY HOURS OF LIGHT PER DAY?

The duration of the light cycle is another huge factor to consider. Day length governs plant development and dictates when and how much marijuana a grower will harvest. It’s not just the quality of the light that matters; Mary Jane needs a consistent amount of time to sunbathe every day to reach her full potential. Interruptions to the light cycle will stress photoperiod cannabis plants.

VEGETATIVE GROWTH

Photoperiod cannabis strains can stay in vegetative growth indefinitely, so long as they receive 15+ hours per day of light. Indoor growers favour either an 18-6 or continuous 24-hour light period. Whiter lights to mimic the springtime sunshine, which emits blue-spectrum light, are preferred. Most growers use MH lamps, cool white CFL bulbs, or full-spectrum LED.

​

FLOWERING

The 12-12 light schedule has become the standard operating procedure for flowering cannabis indoors. Reduction of daylight hours triggers the transition to bloom in cannabis. Outdoors, this is a slower, more gradual process as the days naturally grow shorter after the summer solstice. Now, the red spectrum is the light marijuana needs most to produce bud. Yellow/orange HPS lamps are the old-school substitute for the autumn sunlight. Full-spectrum LED growers need only adjust their timer.

WHAT ARE THE OPTIMAL CONDITIONS FOR PHOTOSYNTHESIS?

Perhaps the best study of cannabis and photosynthesis is the 2008 research study by the University of Mississippi. “Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO₂ conditions” is quite a mouthful, but this is juicy reading material for the ordinary decent home grower.

This study focussed on the indoor performance of 20 four-month-old clones from a single high-yielding Mexican mother plant. By exposing plants to a range of temperatures, PPFD intensities, and CO₂ concentrations, with tightly controlled humidity, they discovered the optimal conditions for cannabis plants to efficiently photosynthesise. They also proved cannabis thrives in a CO₂-rich environment.

In conclusion, researchers provided the precise formula for the perfect grow-op conditions. Home growers take note of the following excerpt from the report: “C. sativa can utilize a fairly high level of PPFD and temperature for its gas and water exchange processes, and can perform much better if grown at ~1500μmol/(s·m²) PPFD, and around 25 to 30°C temperature conditions”.

PHOTOPERIOD VS AUTOFLOWERING CANNABIS

Ruderalis is the rebel cannabis species that has adapted the autoflowering trait. No reduction in hours of daylight is needed to induce flowering. Rather, these strains have a reduced lifecycle of 100 days or less post-germination. Regrettably, to date, we don’t have a reliable study comparable to the research cited above to make definitive conclusions regarding ruderalis hybrids.

However, anecdotal evidence, mostly sourced from the microgrower community, suggests that a long day suits autoflowers best. It’s possible for an auto to survive on just 8 hours per day, but the highest yields of the most potent indoor flowers are being achieved with a 20-4 light cycle from seed to harvest. Similarly, outdoor summer crops harvested in July/August are usually the heaviest, higher-grade buds.

The jury is still out on how much blue-spectrum light an auto really requires. Bloom begins so soon that many growers use an HPS lamp for the entire life cycle. The good news is, it’s only a matter of time before scientific analysis specific to autoflowering cannabis photosynthesis begins in earnest.

 

[PCaddict]

Great Photo editing. I wish I knew how to do that stuff and had a good camera. Great pics and nice update

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds

CO₂ To Increase Marijuana Production​

How does the CO₂ as a natural occurring gas helps marijuana grows faster with increased yields and what are the most effective methods of implementing CO₂ to your indoor garden.

​

INTRODUCTION

Indoor cannabis cultivation has definitely changed over the past few decades, with once basic closet low powered lamps evolving into advanced engineered automated systems capable of producing unbelievable yields in a limited amount of space and time. Achieving maximum yields in the shortest period possible has become every indoor grower desire, and so far numerous methods have been tried and tested. Besides the more commonly used techniques for increasing plant growing potential, there are a few more controversial techniques not yet fully approved by dedicated cannabis growers.

One technique that often has its effectiveness debated is the CO₂ enrichment of a growing area. It is scientifically proven that plants use CO₂ as fuel for photosynthesis, and with more CO₂ there should be a noticeable difference in the speed and size of growing plants. Unfortunately, many cannabis growers have learned from experience that numbers shown in theory don’t necessarily follow through in practice. Therefore, it’s valuable to understand how CO₂ works in the world of indoor cannabis growing and what are the effective methods that can actually harness its potential.

EFFECTS OF CO₂ ON CANNABIS PLANTS

The effects of CO₂, or carbon dioxide, on cannabis, are no different than that are in any other plant species on the planet. It’s simply a part of the photosynthesis process where the plant produces energy from natural or artificial light. CO₂ is part of the air that a plant inhales and after photosynthesis, in turn exhaling oxygen, a gas that enables life on earth.

It is suspected that in prehistorical times, the concentration of CO₂ was much higher than today, and it caused significantly larger growth. The normal concentration of CO₂ in the air today is 300-400ppm, which is a lot less a cannabis plant can handle given that enough light is provided.

Light intensity plays the key role in CO₂ implementation, and it should be considered only in setups with high powered HPS and MH lamps. The increased concentration of CO₂ in the air gives cannabis the ability to produce much more energy from light than it would in a natural environment where CO₂ doesn’t exceed 400ppm. Setups with 600-1000W HPS or MH lamps can easily be supplemented with 1200-1500ppm of CO₂, fuelling plants to grow larger and faster.

Higher concentration of CO₂ increases photosynthesis in plants making them hungry for more nutrients and water than they normally would.

PROS AND CONS OF CO₂ IMPLEMENTATION

It is important to mention that before supplementing your operation with magical CO₂, every other requirement for growing healthy plants should be met. CO₂ will have insignificant or even damaging effect when exposed to unhealthy or nutrient hungry plants. So the best result you can get from CO₂ is when it’s added to a previously optimized setup with plenty of light power. Well fed, healthy plants with some LST training are set for large yields by that alone, and will certainly benefit the most from CO₂.

PROS:

• INCREASE IN YIELDS AND FASTER GROWTH

One of the more obvious reasons for adding CO₂ to a grow setup is to squeeze that extra juice from the nutrients and make your plants grow fast and big. Some growers reported a 20% increase in yields and speed of plant maturation. These numbers can only be achieved when every other need of a plant is met and with a maxed out light intensity for the grow area. The most notable increase in growth shows when plants are in the vegetative stage, but many growers are using CO₂ all the way to harvest.

• RESISTANCE TO ENVIRONMENTAL STRESS

Plants exposed to 1000-1500ppm of CO₂ saturation will be able to endure higher growing temperatures of up to 30-35°C. This works hand in hand with bright lights that are needed for CO₂ supplementation. Such lamps produce much more heat than low powered CLF’s or LED lamps, and CO₂ negates that undesired effect which is often encountered in non-CO₂ setups.

• SECURITY BONUS

The majority of CO₂ injection methods require a sealed growing room without any air, or in this case, CO₂ leaks. This also stops any unwanted marijuana smell venting out, adding to the security of your grow space. Also, CO₂ generators burn natural gas as a process of releasing CO₂, producing smell on its own and conveniently masking the smell of blooming marijuana.

CONS:

• HIGH COST OF EFFECTIVE CO₂ SETUPS

Any effective method of CO₂ supplementation used today doesn’t come cheap. There is simply no way around this and if you are considering CO₂ enhancement for your garden don’t spare any money. Investing in cheap ineffective CO₂ setup is just a waste of time and money. Even though the initial cost of good quality CO₂ setup is high, the maintenance is actually much cheaper and it will certainly pay off in the long run.

• UNUSABLE WITH LOW POWER LAMPS

As mentioned before, CO₂ injection becomes effective only when there’s bright light present. Many growers who are growing with a limited amount of space and light will not benefit from the higher CO₂ concentration. Anything under 600W/m² is considered too low for CO₂ injection. With larger growing space more light is needed.

• HUMIDITY IN CLOSED CO₂ SETUPS

Various methods of adding CO₂ to grow room requires sealed setups that have high humidity as a side effect. The increase in heat makes cannabis transpire more, raising humidity levels and setting up a plant for mold and other humidity related problems. It is crucial to keep track of humidity levels in CO₂ setups and ensure proper airflow inside the growing space. Growers who are maxing out the CO₂ injection often use dehumidifiers to control humidity.

METHODS OF IMPLEMENTING CO₂ INTO THE GROW ROOM

The ways of adding CO₂ to your grow are numerous, but there are few methods that are notably more effective than others. Unfortunately, these are often the most expensive and harder to set up. Supplementing CO₂ via CO₂ tanks or CO₂ generators is highly recommended and many experienced growers swear by these methods and their potential benefits.

CO₂ TANKS
The CO₂ tanks are filled with compressed CO₂ and are the most stable way to inject and control CO₂ supplementation. Even though it’s costly, it is also one of the easiest method and possibly the best one to start with.

The CO₂ bottles or tanks are placed outside of growing space and are connected via fitting tubes that pump CO₂ inside the grow room or tent. Considering that CO₂ is heavier than oxygen, the tubes should be set up to release CO₂ above the plant level, “raining” down on the leaves. This is important because plants absorb CO₂ through leaves or specifically stomata (the tiny pores on leaves).

Another great perk of using CO₂ tanks is the possibility to control the desired amount of CO₂ released. It is achieved by using a pressure regulator and controllers which are set up to monitor the levels of CO₂ inside the grow space. Once the desired level is set up the amount of CO₂ released is automatically controlled.

This method requires a sealed setup for maximum effect, and to avoid heat and humidity problems, proper ventilation is needed. The best way of separating air inside the grow space from outside is by using cooltubes and hooded reflectors. Using these ensures that every bit of CO₂ stays inside the grow space and remains untouched by air from outside while also reducing heat created from the lamp.

There are few downsides of using CO₂ tanks that should be considered. The air that is supplemented by CO₂ can be potentially harmful to humans and should not be inhaled. Make sure that you turn off your tanks before tending to plant's other needs. Also be careful how you transport those big tanks since they can draw unwanted attention.

CO₂ GENERATORS
The CO₂ generator is a device that produces CO₂, usually through combustion of propane or natural gas. It is another effective way of CO₂ enrichment and just like the CO₂ tanks, it doesn’t come cheap. Once set up they are easy to operate and can be fully automated through a controller that comes with most models.

CO₂ generators are usually closed systems where gas is burned internally, but some models come with an open flame. You should avoid these models as they pose a great fire hazard. The safest and most cost-effective way of setting up a generator is to connect it to the municipal gas line. This way there’s no need to go shopping for expensive refills that can raise your neighbor's curiosity.

In the process of burning, CO₂ and water vapor is released into the air. As the CO₂ levels increase so does the unwanted humidity. Along with produced heat, humidity is one of the downsides of using the generators and should not be left unchecked. Take special care if you are using CO₂ generators in smaller grow space, as they will raise humidity much faster than in spacious indoor gardens.

A bonus feature of using CO₂ generators is that the burned gas produces an intense smell, covering up the distinctive marijuana scent.

Other alternative methods of CO₂ enrichment that growers often experiment with includes use of dry ice, compost bags, fermentation and CO₂ bags. As these methods may seem practical and cheap, they are far less effective and not recommended for serious growers.

CONCLUSION

Adding CO₂ to your indoor operation may seem discouraging at first, considering the fact that most of the used methods are expensive and include big devices that take up a lot of space. But for those growers who already know their way around their fine-tuned grow room, CO₂ enrichment may come as an excellent added value. Either way, implementing CO₂ still remains a luxury for many indoor growers but as the cannabis cultivation advances these methods may become a common practice.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Great Photo editing. I wish I knew how to do that stuff and had a good camera. Great pics and nice update

Hey @PCaadict, thanks!

A camera might be on my wish list, if I ever develop a serious interest in the hobby.

I'm actually thinking about going outside tonight for our walk, and trying to take some nighttime photos.

The thing I'm finding about photography, is that it is making me look a lot closer, and paying a lot more attention to the things around me!

BTW, how's your day going so far?

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020



​

Wow!

What a beautiful walk tonight!

We went to Heritage Park again - the city lights, the Festival of Lights, the reflections on the ice -they're all great memories to have!

Let me know if you want to come visit, and our daughter will get you a discount at the Holiday Inn!


Here are a few of the pics we took tonight:


A nice view of the gazebo and fireplace. I'll ask the city folks when we can bring some wood and cook marshmallows.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 23, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

A nice view of the gazebo and fireplace. I'll ask the city folks when we can bring some wood...

One of the festival lights - but personally, I like the blue trees. In the front there is exercise equipment. In fact, there is exercise equipment all along the trail around Kempenfelt Bay - done it - and it's fun!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 23, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

One of the festival lights - but personally, I like the blue trees beside the marina. In the...

Looking East across the park. It is fun to have a picnic in the gazebo during the summer when it is raining!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 23, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

Looking East across the park. It is fun to have a picnic in the Gazebo during the summer when...

Another one of the festival lights with the Dream Catcher in the background.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 23, 2020
• barrie drcannacanadian

Another one of the festival lights with the Dream Catcher in the background.

 

[Backlipslide]

I'm glad you're enjoying the pictures, because I'm really enjoying getting out for the walks and the fresh air.

How's the weather up in Alberta these days? A lot better than Newfoundland I hope - they got hit real hard!

We just had over a week of -40 or colder temperatures. We had a nice last couple days, and supposed to be around -10 to +2 for the next week or so. That cold was brutal, I hope that’s the worst of winter, it’s come and gone!

 

[MrSauga]

Nice journal DrC!

Do you happen to know sql2kguy by chance?