toker69
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
I'm in! Thanks for the invite!!
I'm in! Thanks for the invite!!
SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal - Mars II 1600 & Other LEDs
- Thread starter SoilGirl
- Start date
MaPilot
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
awesome setup! I'm in!
awesome setup! I'm in!
Gfcollective
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
i use straw on my outside plants. its cheaper then hay too.
but the straw i use to keep the roots from freezing during winter seasons. im able to grow carrots year round in the moutains doing so.
I&i
Glad to hear the diesel is looking up.
Can I ask what you mean by using hay in for mulch?
I'm not sure you want hay in your grow room.From working on a farm,I was under the impression hay was very dirty stuff.Full of all type's of bug's and what not.
I could be way of base tho.
i use straw on my outside plants. its cheaper then hay too.
but the straw i use to keep the roots from freezing during winter seasons. im able to grow carrots year round in the moutains doing so.
I&i
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
Hell yeah I'm subbed in! Can't wait to see what you do indoors girl,your outdoors was awesome n looks like great quality.
Hell yeah I'm subbed in! Can't wait to see what you do indoors girl,your outdoors was awesome n looks like great quality.
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
- Thread starter
- #26
SoilGirl
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
welcome Corgie.
bugs are all over the stuff in our chicken house. Until the chickens catch them that is. They're fast 
Hornets like to hover around their face as they pass by, and many don't live through it lol.
But my outdoor plants have had hay mixed with trimmed cannabis leaves for about two weeks now and are thriving, I guess I just hope that lasts and will translate into the same thing inside, but if it proves a problem I can always remove it.
My mom also used to pick strawberries as a teenager, she told me they're called strawberries because big fields are grown and the straw beds are used for the berries to rest on so they don't rot. Hay dries out pretty quickly if there's sunlight or a breeze, but keeps everything underneath nice and moist
So yes I think it should be a good enough mulch in a pinch. Plus it breaks down and provides more organic matter over time. My biggest worry is possible GMO's in the hay, or messed up pesticides/other chemicals. I feel better because I took this hay off of our asparagus patch (now long dried up and underground) after it had just been sprayed with water, then sun baked bone dry; and it has been going through that process since the spring. I took the stuff off the top that wasn't very broken down yet, but it was pretty pale/sunbleached.
Thanks for pitching in Gfc
hope you'll enjoy the ride.
p.s. .... hay and straw are the same thing right?
that BBK is befuddling for the first 15 minutes or so after vaporizing....
hahaha if that means I get your plants too then I just might do it!
welcome Corgie. No I'm sure your concerns are well founded JimmyGlad to hear the diesel is looking up.
Can I ask what you mean by using hay in for mulch?
I'm not sure you want hay in your grow room.From working on a farm,I was under the impression hay was very dirty stuff.Full of all type's of bug's and what not.
I could be way of base tho.
bugs are all over the stuff in our chicken house. Until the chickens catch them that is. They're fast Hornets like to hover around their face as they pass by, and many don't live through it lol.But my outdoor plants have had hay mixed with trimmed cannabis leaves for about two weeks now and are thriving, I guess I just hope that lasts and will translate into the same thing inside, but if it proves a problem I can always remove it.
Welcome Joe
You're very welcome toker! I'm really impressed by how you feminized all of your own autoflower seeds, and now have enough to fill a whole grow with them continuously! I'd love to try that in the future!I'm in! Thanks for the invite!!
Thanks Pilot! Glad to have you "on the bus"
We cover our Asparagus roots with a thick heap of compost, then a thick coating of hay. Then they grow like a hedge
My mom also used to pick strawberries as a teenager, she told me they're called strawberries because big fields are grown and the straw beds are used for the berries to rest on so they don't rot. Hay dries out pretty quickly if there's sunlight or a breeze, but keeps everything underneath nice and moist
So yes I think it should be a good enough mulch in a pinch. Plus it breaks down and provides more organic matter over time. My biggest worry is possible GMO's in the hay, or messed up pesticides/other chemicals. I feel better because I took this hay off of our asparagus patch (now long dried up and underground) after it had just been sprayed with water, then sun baked bone dry; and it has been going through that process since the spring. I took the stuff off the top that wasn't very broken down yet, but it was pretty pale/sunbleached.
Thanks for pitching in Gfc
Thanks so much marz you're too kind, and you grow beautiful plants too! I'm glad you're in!
hello and welcome Reg
hope you'll enjoy the ride.p.s. .... hay and straw are the same thing right?
that BBK is befuddling for the first 15 minutes or so after vaporizing....
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
There I go showing my age again.
I know you're not asking me! That sounds like a question Eva Gabor (from Green Acres) & I would both ask.p.s. .... hay and straw are the same thing right?
There I go showing my age again.
- Thread starter
- #28
SoilGirl
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
oh geez... too funny.
oh geez... too funny.
Gfcollective
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
Sorry I typed a few times but couldn't exactly explain it. So a quick yahoo search gave me this. All I can day is when u go to buy them, it is much much cleaner looking
Straw is just the stalks of wheat, etc. that can be used for bedding of animals. It is dried and golden-colored right away and it is not very nutritious at all. Hay, on the other hand, is very nutritious and grown for that purpose. Hay is green grass that is cut and then dried. Straw is generally "baled" in easily-handled bundles (bales) and can be picked up by hand. Hay is usually in large stacks along roadsides where farmers and ranchers can get to them right away. Sometimes they are covered in winter. Hay can also be baled though, and when a hay crop fails in one part of the country, farmers who have a good crop will send bales of hay by truck to those farmers who really need it for their animals' survival.
I&I
Sorry I typed a few times but couldn't exactly explain it. So a quick yahoo search gave me this. All I can day is when u go to buy them, it is much much cleaner looking
Straw is just the stalks of wheat, etc. that can be used for bedding of animals. It is dried and golden-colored right away and it is not very nutritious at all. Hay, on the other hand, is very nutritious and grown for that purpose. Hay is green grass that is cut and then dried. Straw is generally "baled" in easily-handled bundles (bales) and can be picked up by hand. Hay is usually in large stacks along roadsides where farmers and ranchers can get to them right away. Sometimes they are covered in winter. Hay can also be baled though, and when a hay crop fails in one part of the country, farmers who have a good crop will send bales of hay by truck to those farmers who really need it for their animals' survival.
I&I
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
Subbed
Subbed
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
The bottom line is, mulch is extremely important for soil health. This PDF explains that and some other things very well in my opinion. See 3. a.
Sustainable Landscape Management from a Soil Foodweb (SFW) Perspective
by Alane O’Rielly Weber, Botanical Arts
1. Stop killing the beneficial resident soil biology:
a. Stop or significantly reduce the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.
b. Stop manipulating soil pH with lime, dolomite, or gypsum. If calcium need is indicated by soil testing, use oyster shell flour or azomite along w/ compost/organic matter to increase soil foodweb growth, which will buffer pH, and hold plant available calcium in the soil.
c. Stop manipulating soil pH lower with “acid food” fertilizers high in sulfur. Instead, increase compost/organic matter use and let the soil foodweb microbes adjust pH naturally. Sulfur is a fungicide.
d. Stop destroying the natural placement and organization of the soil foodweb microbes with unnecessary roto‐tilling and turning of soil.
1. annual plants are able to benefit from some soil disturbance. When possible leave roots of last seasons’ annuals in the ground for organic matter & place new plants 1 off the grid.
2. in severe compaction, where faster results are required, till soil once only, while adding 2 – 6 “ of compost into the re‐worked soil horizon, followed with a mulch after planting.
3. when possible, do not till large spaces; dig & amend each planting hole only. Mulch w/ compost &/or raw organic materials; use microbial rich additives like actively aerated compost tea (AACT).
2. Add the Soil Foodweb (SFW) microbes:
a. Increase the populations of SFW by using well made compost or aerated compost tea , and products w/ mycorrhizae at planting or when aerating turf – this product must touch root surfaces to take effect.
b. Test for the specific categories needed: bacteria, fungi (both decomposers), protozoa (bacterial predators for nutrient cycling), nematodes (fungal predators for nutrient cycling); note: predatory nematodes have other benefits of controlling specific soil insects; single species products available.
3. Create a biology‐friendly habitat for the microbes to proliferate.
a. Mulch is the simplest way of improving soil health. Different materials will affect the soil and support the SFW microbes and their plants in different ways: (Keep away from base/trunk of plants)
1. compost (as alive and mature as possible) is always appropriate; but may be expensive.
2. raw (un‐composted) organic matter is available and frequently reduces a waste stream.
a. a very thin layer (or successive layers over time) of grass clippings around annuals - This tactic favors SFW bacterial counts and increases biological nitrogen retention.
b. a thin, single layer of cocoa hulls around annuals or perennials (caution around dogs)
c. straw mulch appropriate for use w/veggies, annuals and perennials
d. ‘coco‐peat’(coarsely‐shredded coconut husk) around annuals, perennials or shrubs; or as a finely shredded amendment, a.k.a. coir, can be used to replace peat moss.
e. longer lived plants, such as perennials, shrubs, trees prefer high carbon mulches, such as arborists’ wood chips, chipped bark products, sawdust, or nut shells.
3. layered, multi‐component mulch (a.k.a. lasagna composting) can also be very effective.
Use caution and understanding with raw wood products that are unusually high in tannins or anti‐ microbial/anti‐fungal properties; they are temporarily resistant to microbial breakdown (it’s why we use redwood lumber outside) and may not support your SFW for months to years. Sm. amount of N to start.
4. Feed the beneficial SFW microbes (“feed the soil”) and jump‐start the “poop loop”
a. Some plants and plant groups do better w/ higher levels of nitrogen and supporting macro and micro‐nutrients than may be available in poor, damaged, or only raw‐fed soil systems. Many nursery grown and cultivated species are peak‐performers, chosen for their growth habits in trials while fed high levels of inorganic fertilizers. Many plants that produce fruit or bloom profusely will perform better with seasonal additions of full‐nutrient organic fertilizers. Reward them with the extra nutrients in order to maintain their expected performance. Use mixed animal or plant based raw organic fertilizers.
b. On the other hand, many natives, like chaparral or other dry‐land/drought‐tolerant types, require no regular additions of nutrients other than small amounts of compost and mulches.
c. ‘Organic fertilizers’ are typically concentrated liquid or dried down pulverized and concentrated plant, animal or mineral materials. They are naturally high in particular minerals and available in single stream packaging (i.e. alfalfa meal) or blends of materials. They, like compost and mulch, must be acted upon by the SFW microbes in order for “nutrient cycling” to occur. Some immediately available nutrients (nitrogen) occur in animal based products; especially manure and guano; use w/ caution & understanding.
1. use proprietary blends or single source organic fertilizers made from processed plant or animal parts; clays or mined mineral sources and kelp can provide most non‐N mineral nutrients.
2. alfalfa meal, fish meal, feather meal, composted manures for increased nitrogen; caution with blood, bone, and other slaughter house by‐products.
3. Reduce or avoid manufactured urea or ammoniacal nitrogen products (salty)
4. use kelp/seaweed products or mined minerals for micro‐nutrients.
5. growing “green manure” cover crops, grown in between rows or seasons, can add nutrients and microbes to your soil system.
5. Choose compatible plants to match the soil biology’s level of succession
a. Like the concept of grouping plants with similar water needs, keep in mind that plants’ roots’ microbial partners can be categorized into a gradient from bacterial dominance, as in annual plants, to fungal dominance, as in woodland/climax forest‐type plants.
Plants do better when the surrounding soil habitat supports the microbes that they prefer.
Alkalinity and acidity are influenced by the microbe groups.
6. Specific Recommendations for Soil Preparation & Compaction Mitigation:
a. Individual plantings: It is best to dig single holes for individual plants and mulch the surrounding soil to attract the SFW microbes that will improve the soil structure in the larger areas between the plantings.
1. backfill with 5 – 25% mature compost or organic planting mix.
2. use appropriate mycorrhizal fungi for plants, dusted on root ball, in backfill or dipped.
3. use Rhizobia to inoculate the seeds/roots of all Leguminous plants.
4. use a v. small amount of organic fertilizer in bottom of planting hole; teaspoon per 5 gal. plant.
5. if compaction was an issue in planting area, subsequent applications of well‐made compost or compost tea (AACT) can increase microbial component in order to aerate soils more quickly.
6. Mulch is a verb: Do it on the surrounding soil area to improve SFW habitat.
7. An alternate spot treatment for compaction mitigation:
a. “vertical mulching” ‐ using an auger to punch past compaction layers; fill with high‐fungal compost or decomposed leaf litter. Addition of AACT and mycorrhizal fungi (if close to root zones) very helpful.
b. trenching (where appropriate) and back‐filling with high‐fungal compost or composted organic mixes. Subsequent applications of compost tea helpful.
c. Compost tea can be applied to individual plants or soil drenched into larger areas. When used alone, without any mechanical intervention, the power of the SFW microbes can do the job, however expect them to take several seasons to several years to open up soil and mitigate compaction.
The bottom line is, mulch is extremely important for soil health. This PDF explains that and some other things very well in my opinion. See 3. a.
Sustainable Landscape Management from a Soil Foodweb (SFW) Perspective
by Alane O’Rielly Weber, Botanical Arts
1. Stop killing the beneficial resident soil biology:
a. Stop or significantly reduce the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.
b. Stop manipulating soil pH with lime, dolomite, or gypsum. If calcium need is indicated by soil testing, use oyster shell flour or azomite along w/ compost/organic matter to increase soil foodweb growth, which will buffer pH, and hold plant available calcium in the soil.
c. Stop manipulating soil pH lower with “acid food” fertilizers high in sulfur. Instead, increase compost/organic matter use and let the soil foodweb microbes adjust pH naturally. Sulfur is a fungicide.
d. Stop destroying the natural placement and organization of the soil foodweb microbes with unnecessary roto‐tilling and turning of soil.
1. annual plants are able to benefit from some soil disturbance. When possible leave roots of last seasons’ annuals in the ground for organic matter & place new plants 1 off the grid.
2. in severe compaction, where faster results are required, till soil once only, while adding 2 – 6 “ of compost into the re‐worked soil horizon, followed with a mulch after planting.
3. when possible, do not till large spaces; dig & amend each planting hole only. Mulch w/ compost &/or raw organic materials; use microbial rich additives like actively aerated compost tea (AACT).
2. Add the Soil Foodweb (SFW) microbes:
a. Increase the populations of SFW by using well made compost or aerated compost tea , and products w/ mycorrhizae at planting or when aerating turf – this product must touch root surfaces to take effect.
b. Test for the specific categories needed: bacteria, fungi (both decomposers), protozoa (bacterial predators for nutrient cycling), nematodes (fungal predators for nutrient cycling); note: predatory nematodes have other benefits of controlling specific soil insects; single species products available.
3. Create a biology‐friendly habitat for the microbes to proliferate.
a. Mulch is the simplest way of improving soil health. Different materials will affect the soil and support the SFW microbes and their plants in different ways: (Keep away from base/trunk of plants)
1. compost (as alive and mature as possible) is always appropriate; but may be expensive.
2. raw (un‐composted) organic matter is available and frequently reduces a waste stream.
a. a very thin layer (or successive layers over time) of grass clippings around annuals - This tactic favors SFW bacterial counts and increases biological nitrogen retention.
b. a thin, single layer of cocoa hulls around annuals or perennials (caution around dogs)
c. straw mulch appropriate for use w/veggies, annuals and perennials
d. ‘coco‐peat’(coarsely‐shredded coconut husk) around annuals, perennials or shrubs; or as a finely shredded amendment, a.k.a. coir, can be used to replace peat moss.
e. longer lived plants, such as perennials, shrubs, trees prefer high carbon mulches, such as arborists’ wood chips, chipped bark products, sawdust, or nut shells.
3. layered, multi‐component mulch (a.k.a. lasagna composting) can also be very effective.
Use caution and understanding with raw wood products that are unusually high in tannins or anti‐ microbial/anti‐fungal properties; they are temporarily resistant to microbial breakdown (it’s why we use redwood lumber outside) and may not support your SFW for months to years. Sm. amount of N to start.
4. Feed the beneficial SFW microbes (“feed the soil”) and jump‐start the “poop loop”
a. Some plants and plant groups do better w/ higher levels of nitrogen and supporting macro and micro‐nutrients than may be available in poor, damaged, or only raw‐fed soil systems. Many nursery grown and cultivated species are peak‐performers, chosen for their growth habits in trials while fed high levels of inorganic fertilizers. Many plants that produce fruit or bloom profusely will perform better with seasonal additions of full‐nutrient organic fertilizers. Reward them with the extra nutrients in order to maintain their expected performance. Use mixed animal or plant based raw organic fertilizers.
b. On the other hand, many natives, like chaparral or other dry‐land/drought‐tolerant types, require no regular additions of nutrients other than small amounts of compost and mulches.
c. ‘Organic fertilizers’ are typically concentrated liquid or dried down pulverized and concentrated plant, animal or mineral materials. They are naturally high in particular minerals and available in single stream packaging (i.e. alfalfa meal) or blends of materials. They, like compost and mulch, must be acted upon by the SFW microbes in order for “nutrient cycling” to occur. Some immediately available nutrients (nitrogen) occur in animal based products; especially manure and guano; use w/ caution & understanding.
1. use proprietary blends or single source organic fertilizers made from processed plant or animal parts; clays or mined mineral sources and kelp can provide most non‐N mineral nutrients.
2. alfalfa meal, fish meal, feather meal, composted manures for increased nitrogen; caution with blood, bone, and other slaughter house by‐products.
3. Reduce or avoid manufactured urea or ammoniacal nitrogen products (salty)
4. use kelp/seaweed products or mined minerals for micro‐nutrients.
5. growing “green manure” cover crops, grown in between rows or seasons, can add nutrients and microbes to your soil system.
5. Choose compatible plants to match the soil biology’s level of succession
a. Like the concept of grouping plants with similar water needs, keep in mind that plants’ roots’ microbial partners can be categorized into a gradient from bacterial dominance, as in annual plants, to fungal dominance, as in woodland/climax forest‐type plants.
Plants do better when the surrounding soil habitat supports the microbes that they prefer.
Alkalinity and acidity are influenced by the microbe groups.
6. Specific Recommendations for Soil Preparation & Compaction Mitigation:
a. Individual plantings: It is best to dig single holes for individual plants and mulch the surrounding soil to attract the SFW microbes that will improve the soil structure in the larger areas between the plantings.
1. backfill with 5 – 25% mature compost or organic planting mix.
2. use appropriate mycorrhizal fungi for plants, dusted on root ball, in backfill or dipped.
3. use Rhizobia to inoculate the seeds/roots of all Leguminous plants.
4. use a v. small amount of organic fertilizer in bottom of planting hole; teaspoon per 5 gal. plant.
5. if compaction was an issue in planting area, subsequent applications of well‐made compost or compost tea (AACT) can increase microbial component in order to aerate soils more quickly.
6. Mulch is a verb: Do it on the surrounding soil area to improve SFW habitat.
7. An alternate spot treatment for compaction mitigation:
a. “vertical mulching” ‐ using an auger to punch past compaction layers; fill with high‐fungal compost or decomposed leaf litter. Addition of AACT and mycorrhizal fungi (if close to root zones) very helpful.
b. trenching (where appropriate) and back‐filling with high‐fungal compost or composted organic mixes. Subsequent applications of compost tea helpful.
c. Compost tea can be applied to individual plants or soil drenched into larger areas. When used alone, without any mechanical intervention, the power of the SFW microbes can do the job, however expect them to take several seasons to several years to open up soil and mitigate compaction.
- Thread starter
- #33
SoilGirl
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
good info!
The thoroughness... I'm just doing my best to share as much information as I can, because I appreciated it in many journals I've read.
hahaha thanks for clearing that up for us ignorant city raised folk Gfc
Hi CO Finest, thanks! I know you're busy so I appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing Corgie
good info! hahaha, thanks and welcome Guts!Nice I'm subbed.can't wait to see this one. Love how thorough you are with soil. Nice
The thoroughness... I'm just doing my best to share as much information as I can, because I appreciated it in many journals I've read.
Gfcollective
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
where i was raised our school had 3 cow pastors all around. the smell you got use to, i never noticed it until i moved away. the school i moved to had a cow pastor behind their football field.. wasnt as strong smelling in that town but still around the skirts of that town you could smell it.
now im happy i live in the mtns, no cow poo smell. now i get to watch wild turkey groups cross the road and tumble weeds blow across..
i couldnt leave the mtns if i tried.
I&i
where i was raised our school had 3 cow pastors all around. the smell you got use to, i never noticed it until i moved away. the school i moved to had a cow pastor behind their football field.. wasnt as strong smelling in that town but still around the skirts of that town you could smell it.
now im happy i live in the mtns, no cow poo smell. now i get to watch wild turkey groups cross the road and tumble weeds blow across..
i couldnt leave the mtns if i tried.
I&i
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
I swear, I learn something new every day!
joegrower619
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
I'm in definitely like your growing methods and soil mixing
I'm in definitely like your growing methods and soil mixing
knotspeeds88
New Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
I'm in and it's looking great in here.....
I'm in and it's looking great in here.....
- Thread starter
- #38
SoilGirl
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
Hi everyone.. it kills me a little to say it.. but maybe right now's not the time for an indoor grow.. I probably need to get away from here.. I posted in my other journal first because I was still kind of freaking out and in denial, trying to put off posting it here but.. here's what I posted.
"wow..just got woken up by a big glass of ice water being poured on me at 6 20 in the morning.. and getting dragged to the kitchen.. because our dishes were dirty and my dad thought I'd promised to clean them(WTF????)...and I didn't... I angrily said no, I'm not cleaning up after you do this to me, so he killed my euphoria clone indoors. what a start to the indoor grow journal... he tried to lock me into my garage too, and I broke the door down. Then he tried to hold me in there himself and I pushed him onto his back and ran to my room. I'm honestly sitting here crying right now with a gun and pepper spray scared he's going to try to terrorize me more..my mom had to get off the phone with me and go to work.. I feel pretty pathetic right now. God I have to get out of here.. maybe its not time for an indoor journal after all.."
well that was a while ago... police? I called them, hung up, got called back, and said everything was fine... involving police could really harm my family financially (my primary concern) and lead to a divorce between my parents (...its bound to eventually happen.. since my dad's brain injury, he's really been a monster to live with..)...so yeah while I think he deserves jail time.. there will be too much of a backlash to make it worth it.. I can protect myself.. apparently not my plants.... but myself..
So far, I know for sure he killed the euphoria clone that was inside, and the big blue blood. Tore them to pieces laughing at me. But by now.. all my plants could be dead. I've cried enough tears for all of them, I'm prepared for the worst now.
Sorry for making such a big hub-bub just to disappoint everyone like this..but this journal might have to end.
Hi everyone.. it kills me a little to say it.. but maybe right now's not the time for an indoor grow.. I probably need to get away from here.. I posted in my other journal first because I was still kind of freaking out and in denial, trying to put off posting it here but.. here's what I posted.
"wow..just got woken up by a big glass of ice water being poured on me at 6 20 in the morning.. and getting dragged to the kitchen.. because our dishes were dirty and my dad thought I'd promised to clean them(WTF????)...and I didn't... I angrily said no, I'm not cleaning up after you do this to me, so he killed my euphoria clone indoors. what a start to the indoor grow journal... he tried to lock me into my garage too, and I broke the door down. Then he tried to hold me in there himself and I pushed him onto his back and ran to my room. I'm honestly sitting here crying right now with a gun and pepper spray scared he's going to try to terrorize me more..my mom had to get off the phone with me and go to work.. I feel pretty pathetic right now. God I have to get out of here.. maybe its not time for an indoor journal after all.."
well that was a while ago... police? I called them, hung up, got called back, and said everything was fine... involving police could really harm my family financially (my primary concern) and lead to a divorce between my parents (...its bound to eventually happen.. since my dad's brain injury, he's really been a monster to live with..)...so yeah while I think he deserves jail time.. there will be too much of a backlash to make it worth it.. I can protect myself.. apparently not my plants.... but myself..
So far, I know for sure he killed the euphoria clone that was inside, and the big blue blood. Tore them to pieces laughing at me. But by now.. all my plants could be dead. I've cried enough tears for all of them, I'm prepared for the worst now.
Sorry for making such a big hub-bub just to disappoint everyone like this..but this journal might have to end.
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
sounds like its time for a drastic change. which although is harder than staying (initially), will be best for your future.
the current indoor grow isn't that important in the whole scheme of things, at least you know how to grow, and have all the equipment. that there is the hard parts.
I would can it now, and move out. think of the terrible feeling if someone destroyed your grow late bloom.
sorry to hear you are going through this. often times in situations similar to this the victim (you) keeps coming back because they want to believe that things will change, but they never do, and often get worse.
sounds like its time for a drastic change. which although is harder than staying (initially), will be best for your future.
the current indoor grow isn't that important in the whole scheme of things, at least you know how to grow, and have all the equipment. that there is the hard parts.
I would can it now, and move out. think of the terrible feeling if someone destroyed your grow late bloom.
sorry to hear you are going through this. often times in situations similar to this the victim (you) keeps coming back because they want to believe that things will change, but they never do, and often get worse.
- Thread starter
- #40
SoilGirl
Well-Known Member
Re: SoilGirl's Indoor Organic Soil Medical Grow Journal w/ Mars II 1600 and other LED
thank you corgie.. you're probably right.. I can feel it. i'm just so sad.. and for the moment I'm stuck. and my dad is torturing me. Killing my plants one by one slowly and just generally being intimidating and mean... what a slime ball..
thank you corgie.. you're probably right.. I can feel it. i'm just so sad.. and for the moment I'm stuck. and my dad is torturing me. Killing my plants one by one slowly and just generally being intimidating and mean... what a slime ball..
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