DobeWan's Perpetual Adventure 2.0: The Reboot

I gots U! :thanks: (about the clone shipper thingy parts)

BTW, your VK is violating all grow rules now and excelling at her game. I remember it sold out at the dispensary and I was lucky to even had the chance to light her up. Funny how we can connect to strains more when we grow them. So much more respect now than I ever had. But I knew it was the right way to go. Keep it up DW, really easy to learn here. :)
 
Looking great Dobe! Glad to see the WW still in it to win it;) how exciting, I'll be interested in the pink Kush as I have a bean! Also the chemdawg, blue dream and the G13-skunk ;)

WW bounced back big time after her funky start, she's really growing well now, even her freakish stunted top! It's going to be hard to hold her back out of flower when I flip in a couple of weeks if she keeps this up. Too many good candidates for this round is a good problem to have though. If she gets relegated to the veg tent for another couple of months it's not the end of the world but OTMs pics are strong incentive to find room!
 
Im most excited to see if your chemdawg looks like mine.. excited for you cause its an awesome plant so far!! I know this seems weird... but when you get the seeds take a pic of the chemdawg ones.. just wanna see if the ones i got were premature or the same as others. They seemed small and the first one i tried didnt pop.. yes i blame it on the seeds hehe. ..

Interesting - at the start of this journal, my Liberty Haze (Chemdawg x G13) seeds looked smaller than the others and didn't want to pop! I'll definitely be intrigued to keep an eye out. Got notification my order was confirmed paid for and being packed this morning so I'll find out soon!
 
I gots U! :thanks: (about the clone shipper thingy parts)

BTW, your VK is violating all grow rules now and excelling at her game. I remember it sold out at the dispensary and I was lucky to even had the chance to light her up. Funny how we can connect to strains more when we grow them. So much more respect now than I ever had. But I knew it was the right way to go. Keep it up DW, really easy to learn here. :)
Thanks G2HM. I’m loving the VK grow and expect to really find the strain special once I have a big bottle of it and not just a little dispensary baggie! Hopefully we both cross paths on some others in the future. I’ll have an indica like this in every grow, Pink Kush next, so you’ll definitely be first to know how they work out and whether they might help you.

I wanted daytime stomach relief yesterday so I could still be around with my family for the day and Kushy hit the spot. Great strain for me too!

Hopefully the learning keeps coming, I think I found my niche with this journal and that’s to leave a little something behind for anyone who is in the same shoes I was and so many of us were not too long ago. To that end, I’m going to continue with the tutorials and I’m working on my next one, to be up in the next day or two. I’m going to talk about training - my goals, tools, methods, etc. Hopefully that will help someone!

When I finished my first journal, Pennywise commented that now I should go out and share my knowledge to help others and I really took that to heart. So this is my way of giving back for all the help I’ve gotten!
 
How I Train

Previously I've done tutorials around the following: Germinating - Topping - Transplanting

I thought it made sense to put together some of my thoughts around training.

Let me start by saying there’s no right way nor wrong way to train. Training is all about what works for you, getting you what you need. With that in mind, it’s impossible to do it “wrong”. I would only encourage people to experiment and find out what works for them. If someone finds something they think might work better, I would encourage sharing. We all get better by experimenting and sharing our outcomes, and no one is ever in the wrong when they’re trying something new in the benefit of themselves and perhaps even the community!

This guide, then, is the summary of my experimentation and what works for me. I’ve taken 3 sets of plants through veg and tried all sorts of training methods to find out what I like best. This distils that experimentation down into what I’ve had my best success with.

Also, WARNING that there are some old shots from previous grows with blurple light peppered in here. If this is a problem, let me know (PM is fine) and I'll resave and reupload them without the blurple. It'll take me some extra time and I wanted to get this up, but I want anyone and everyone to be able to read this as needed.

Training goals

I have found that the best way to maximize the quality of my grow is to prioritize getting tops to the canopy, and to minimize lower growth where the light can’t hit and have the same effect. As such, my overall goal is maximizing tops to the canopy, and my methods are intended to support that goal. I could use a SCROG, but I like the easier access and ability to move things around that I retain by not using a net. Ultimately I want my plant to be approximately bowl shaped, with stems radiating out from the main trunk and up to the canopy. I think of it like a menorah (hopefully that’s not offensive).

This Royal Critical from the fall should give a good idea of my desired shape going into flower.

flower-20171028-RC-1F-002-700x1050.jpg


To achieve this shape, my preferred method is a combination of topping, LST, and defoliation I’ll describe below.

Training Methods I Use

Topping: In my experience, topping is the best way to get the shape I prefer, with many tops in the canopy. That’s the why. I touch on when and how I top in the timeline below and in the guide I posted previously (scroll up - 420mag doesn't allow for nice inline links, so I won't insert it again!).

LST by hand: Before the seedlings are mature enough to use actual training tools, I give them gentle LST using my fingertips. If a growth tip is large enough to be manipulated but still too delicate for ties, I’ll manipulate it to a certain direction (usually gently pushing down and away from the main stem, towards the fan beneath it). I do this gently and repeatedly. It’s not that I’m trying to hold it into place as it grows, which is what tying it down does, but rather I’m trying to give it early signals as to the direction it’s new growth should grow. I find this surprisingly effective in helping get the shape I want - it’s as if it starts the growth in the direction I like and sets me up for formal training. A perfect example of when I find this useful is immediately after topping - I find the top remaining node can sometimes have its tops shoot straight up and quickly get woody, making them rigid and easy to snap. I’ll start this gentle LST within a day of the topping, and this will prevent or limit that effect.

This Royal Gorilla is too immature yet in its growth for me to manipulate - even touching with my fingers, I'd better be careful. As it starts to recover, I'll manipulate with my fingers until it's ready for ties.

20180115-RG-21V-002.jpg


LST using tools: Once the seedling is at the point where it can handle formal LST with tools, usually around its 4th week, I’ll start in with tying it up to get the shape I’m looking for. This is the real training work that gives it the shape I’m looking for in time. I’ve described more about the tools and timeline below, but effectively in my case this comes around the halfway point or at the end of the plant’s 4th week, once it has recovered from topping and transplant. Once I know the plant is growing well I do not hesitate to start training. In fact, at this point, I’ll check my training every day so that I adjust to changes with the plant. The fast growth means LST should be reset frequently.

The Royal Gorilla above was ready for ties at about the 18th or 19th, which was 24/25V. I'll show more shots of the plants with various ties on further down rather than repeating them here. They should illustrate what is ready for what type of training.

Defoliation: I’m a strong believer in slow, gradual defoliation from the point at which the plant is ready, instead of large rounds of defoliation that stress the plant. This is a preference thing from my experience doing both and I certainly wouldn’t fault anyone for taking a different approach from me. But in my experience, gradual defoliation limits stress on the plant, while also allowing for tops that might not otherwise get the light they need get light on them early, improving their chances to be viable tops in my canopy.

I'll likely do a separate post about defoliation in time to better illustrate how I defoliate. It's worth calling out on its own as it's a scary topic for a first time grower.

Higher stress training by hand: I’ve only used supercropping to a minimal extent, but I often use gentler bends of the stems to slow their individual growth and keep them in line with the canopy - like “supercropping lite”. Supercropping looks for you to bend until you essentially break the membrane without snapping the branch. It then diverts resources to recover and takes on a new shape. I don’t bend to the point of the break when I do this type of training. Once my canopy is established, some time around week 5, I’ll then switch to maintaining the canopy. My ties can generally come off at this point. From here, I’ll be moving stems around and bending them down and to the sides to shape the canopy as I like it. Day over day the bent stems will have less downtime and recover quicker, meaning less overall stress on the plant but still getting the effect of the individual stems coming into line with the canopy. The end result should be an even canopy but continued strong, mature growth of the plant with minimal stress.

Here are a few shots of the Violator Kush I grew in the fall to illustrate. This is pulled directly out of my last journal but pasted in here in its entirety to illustrate what I mean. Here's where we start, with a Violator Kush plant that didn't get as much training as I'd like and that I was hoping to improve before flip.

veg-20171022-VK-58V-002-1050x700.jpg


I thought as well that I could improve the canopy a little. I'll illustrate my thinking here. I saw the canopy at two levels. A top level…

veg-20171022-VK-58V-002-top-1050x700.jpg


And a lower level…

veg-20171022-VK-58V-002-canopy-1050x700.jpg


So, with some gentle but firm bending of the higher tops, I was able to make the canopy become more uniform.

veg-20171022-VK-58V-003-1050x700.jpg


These tops will recover before lights out at 2:00, but the process of bending will slow their growth enough, and start them from a slightly lower point, that it gives the canopy below better exposure to the light and brings them in line with one another.

veg-20171022-VK-58V-004-1050x700.jpg


Tools I Use

These first few bulleted items are my training workhorses. I’ve included some other training tools below as well. In all cases, be careful not to cut into and damage your plants, or to put your training tool over new growth, inadvertently stunting growth. I like to put the tether points directly below a node, where it will hold the shape well for the stem but not interfere with growth of the node.

Fold back clips: These are the anchors of my training regimen. I love these because they’re pot-independent - I can use them on any style of pot without issues, whether fabric or plastic. I attach these to the sides of the pot and then use them to anchor the ties I use for training. I’ve tried putting all kinds of training implements directly into the coco, but they simply do not hold into the correct position when directly in coco. They might seem snug when you first set them in wet coco, but once that coco dries a little, they aren’t as nicely fit as they were initially, and your training doesn’t stay in the position you intended. Fold back clips remove that potential completely and guarantee your toes hold their position, and can be used with virtually any type of ties.

This White Widow training shot illustrates well my use of fold back clips - I position them where I want then thread my ties through for a mobile yet stable base for my training.

20180119-WW-29V-001.jpg


Sandwich wraps: These smaller wire ties are ideal for attaching growth to fan leaves. I often use this as the first training step on plants, as it’s a great way to prevent a plant that gets woody quickly from shooting 2 woody stems straight up after being topped, without putting too much strain on the plant itself.

This example is that same Royal Gorilla from above a couple of days later, when I'm more comfortable attaching ties to the new growth but nervous about overdoing it.

training-dw-001.jpg


Plastic wire ties: I’m referring here to the type of ties you get on plastic baggies when you buy a new piece of shiny equipment or toy. I’ve been collecting these for the last year+ for use in training. I like these because they hold their form well on soft, new growth, but aren’t hard or heavy, meaning less training mistakes on sensitive newer growth. I use these as the first training tool on most plants.

In this shot, my Liberty Haze 1 is ready for training and rather than going with the sandwich ties propped onto the fans, I go straight to the wire ties. It's a judgment call for me. I've shown how the wire tie connects to the fold back clip to stay in place.

training-dw-002.jpg


Standard wire ties: By these I mean store-bought wire ties, heavier ties covered in rubber or plastic. I buy mine at Lee Valley Tools, which should be useful to any Canadians reading, but I’m sure there are options at home hardware retailers as well. These are heavier both in weight and in wire density, meaning they hold a shape far better, but are far more potentially damaging to the plant. As such they should be used with caution. My #1 tip - get the wire into the shape you want BEFORE putting it around plant growth. If you put it around and stem and then bend it into the shape you like, a simple mistake could damage the plant significantly.

In this first example, I've put them on Liberty Haze 2 on the top, given that the top branches are gaining some thickness. Be careful doing this, but given that these ties are superior, you'll find once you're comfortable your tend to go with the better ties.

training-dw-004.jpg


This second shot shows a far more mature Violator Kush with a tie tethered on. This maturity level is ideal for these ties. I'm using it to keep an already woody, stiff stem angled down so that it sets in that position.

training-dw-005.jpg


Pipe cleaners: These are surprisingly versatile. They’re a bit more of a pain than the small plastic ties because of the length, and because the fibres catch dust and particles from the pot and get dirty. But similarly to those small ties they’re fairly gentle on the plant and well suited to work with a less mature plant. They’re also easily bent and anchored and can be used on more mature growth in a pinch. I just worry about the wire cutting into the plant if left too long.

Here's them in use on my Liberty Haze.

training-dw-003.jpg


Trimming shears: I use the Fiskars 9921 Pruning Shear to trim my plants when I harvest, and I use the same shears for work in veg - specifically, topping and defoliation. These are a vital tool in the overall grow from start to finish. Any scissors should do, but these are sharp, precise, and easy to use. And they’re great for trimming buds because they aren’t strenuous to use over time. But we’ll come back to trimming later.

fiskars-9921.jpg


I’ve tried other tools with less frequency or in some cases less success.Bamboo shoots are great for giving something onto which to anchor since they can be pushed deep into the coco. The problem with something like wire ties inserted superficially into coco is that they don’t hold their place. I’d use them for late flower for support, but would look to plant yo-yos for the same effect next time. Plant ties (soft plastic ribbon) can be convenient for tying branches to one another or onto bamboo without damaging them, but otherwise I found their usage limited. Sandwich wraps were in my experience easier to put into position as no tying was required.

Training Timeline

This is a rough guide to when I train. This works for the timing I like, but another timing might work better for you. I’d suggest using this as a guideline only and experimenting to see what works best for you.

Week 0-3 - Let the seedling establish

In my experience it takes about 3 weeks for a seedling to be ready for next steps in training. During those first 3 weeks I focus on giving my plant everything it needs to be growing quickly. Your goal quite simply is a fast start, setting you up for success in training with fast, healthy growth.

Week 3 completion - Top the seedling

See my previously linked guide for more details. Basically, I’m looking for a plant that is showing fast growth and has established 5-6 nodes. You’ll have your bottom single fans, the first set of true leaves the seed produced (not the tiny pair of cotyledons - these should have new tops growing at their base) and the second set, likely 3-point fans and their associated new tops. Then you’ll have 3-4 nodes of alternating growth above those. I like to clean off those first 2 nodes, leave nodes 3 and 4 (both the fans and the new tops) and top above node 4.

Week 3 - Pot up

You can do this before topping if you prefer. I like to do it after I’ve topped, so that once transplanted the roots are off to the races in their new homes. I wait a couple of days after topping when it’s clear the plant is thriving again. Better to wait too long and transplant a plant itching for more space than too early and need more recovery time for a plant that isn’t ready.

Week 4 - Start training

I look at it in stages, according to how I’ve laid out my use of ties. Too immature, I’ll use my hands only. Mature enough for ties, I’ll start with the smallest wire ties, and move up accordingly.

Week 5 - Adaptation

Different plants will respond differently, so being flexible in how you train and envisioning the end goal is important. Some plants might need their ties adjusted daily as new growth comes in. My Liberty Haze is a good example of this - each day the ties need to be moved to be placed correctly once again. Others might even be able to have ties removed. Violator Kush grows very straight once trained and once the direction was set, didn’t need its ties. I also incorporate defoliation as needed. Envisioning the end goal is very helpful for making defoliation decisions. I tend to keep a few things in mind - is this fan leaf blocking new growth that will reach the canopy? If yes, then it should probably go. Will this fan leaf or top reach the canopy itself? If not, then it should probably go. If you know what you want your canopy to look like, and this is tough to envision your first time through, your defoliation decisions are all about achieving that canopy. Perhaps I’ll do a defoliation guide to help.

Some additional questions?

When should I stop training?

Stop when your goals are met. If you have the shape you want, it’s time to stop. But never feel like you have to stop and put it aside. As long as the plant is pushing out veg growth, until approximately flower week 3 finishes, you can use most training safely. You might see something not quite right and make a small point in time adjustment to fix it. Moving branches to expose light, using ties to hold positions in place, etc. - this type of non-stressful training can occur at any time.

Can I train in flower?

Yes! But be careful. Veg growth will effectively end once week 3 closes. Any training method requiring recovery via new veg growth is possible as long as that veg growth continues, but once it stops, your window has closed. Take supercropping as an example. Supercropping is effective during stretch (first 21 days of flower approximately). But try supercropping after stretch is done, and you might end up with a broken stem that doesn’t recover.

What should I watch out for?

Pushing too hard on delicate stems. The stems can take a lot of abuse but there’s a fine line. Always push into position with your fingers first so that you have tactile feedback, and put training implements into place rather than pushing down using your training implement (which has no tactile feedback). If ever in doubt just wait.

Leaving ties in place too long. You’ll get woody branches quicker than you might expect, and those are difficult to train and easier to snap. Be nimble and move the training tools around when you need to, and avoid letting the plant get set into shape earlier than you like.

Defoliating too much at once. When in doubt, stop. If you have a big job, break it up over a series of nights. Defoliation can stop your plant dead in its tracks, so until you have a feel for it, err on the side of too little.

What other training methods would you recommend?

This is my preferred approach. I have tried “standard” topping, to the 3rd node, both with and without cleaning the growth underneath. I’ve tried 4th and all below kept in place. I’ve tried the standard “Christmas tree” without training. I’ve tried topping with minimal LST. I’ve tried training a stem around the pot. And I’ve tried “mainlining” or “manifolding”. My opinion is that working with the 3rd and 4th node is the best approach. Leaving the plant alone doesn’t get the shape I want. Leaving additional growth below node 3 results in weak stems at the canopy with weak growth off of those stems. I felt the energy was better used on stems from the 3rd and 4th node base. Removing the 4th node felt wasteful as it forms a strong node complementary to the 3rd. Mainlining results in good structure, bus is perhaps unnecessarily long in veg, and is difficult with a stretchy plant. Overall, this is the approach I’m most comfortable with based on experience.

As always, if you have any questions about anything I do, please ask and I’ll be happy to help. And if you have feedback or additional comments, feel free to add them or comment on my approach. Remember, what’s right is what works best for you!
 
Just got my latest tutorial up. Let me know if you have any feedback - conversation in here about it might help anyone with further questions, and I'm definitely interested to hear what about style and formatting works well and what doesn't. Hope you enjoy!

Also, does anyone know if there's a way to go back and have links to my tutorials injected into the first post in the thread? It would be nice to keep an index, but I can't edit such an old post.
 
I hope you don't mind but I saved it. Can I start saving your tutorials and just make a pdf?

This was sooooo good. I mean, the ideas you had for twist ties in the early stage of your training is genius. I am going to adopt that for sure.

The pics say so much. I go back and forth noting the differences. Taking mental pictures and applying the words to the "before & "After, has been key to understanding.

Also, you do this in steps, and then stages, I am probably just gonna save all your tutorials and make a learning pdf for myself, I hope you don't mind. I like to ask cause it's your intellectual property.

These tutorials are very easy to understand for growers with disabilities, yup, you have really developed a niche here. I wonder how you are able to relate so well, do share? It's not easy to do the extra work. Thank you, genuinely.

REPS for sure, no doubt about it!:thanks:
 
Just got my latest tutorial up. Let me know if you have any feedback - conversation in here about it might help anyone with further questions, and I'm definitely interested to hear what about style and formatting works well and what doesn't. Hope you enjoy!

Also, does anyone know if there's a way to go back and have links to my tutorials injected into the first post in the thread? It would be nice to keep an index, but I can't edit such an old post.

Ask Teddy if there's a way to inject links
 
I hope you don't mind but I saved it. Can I start saving your tutorials and just make a pdf?

This was sooooo good. I mean, the ideas you had for twist ties in the early stage of your training is genius. I am going to adopt that for sure.

The pics say so much. I go back and forth noting the differences. Taking mental pictures and applying the words to the "before & "After, has been key to understanding.

Also, you do this in steps, and then stages, I am probably just gonna save all your tutorials and make a learning pdf for myself, I hope you don't mind. I like to ask cause it's your intellectual property.

These tutorials are very easy to understand for growers with disabilities, yup, you have really developed a niche here. I wonder how you are able to relate so well, do share? It's not easy to do the extra work. Thank you, genuinely.

REPS for sure, no doubt about it!:thanks:

If it’s helpful to you to save them as a PDF by all means, do so! Just remember to credit me when you’re raking in the accolades from your book!

I’m glad the style is easy to understand. I’m not sure I really have a trick, I just think about what would help me I guess. I tend to learn by doing and I love having something to follow along with. I just thought, what would I need? I’m a logical person too, and I find I learn best when I understand the outcomes, so I try to spell out clearly what my goal is, and then figure out how to get there.

On the flip side, I have to remind myself not to be too wordy and cut things back. It helps me to make a draft and then go through and remove what isn’t necessary.

I guess overall I find it really rewarding to provide someone else with the tools for success and watch them succeed, so that makes it rewarding for me to put together something that might help someone. Knowing that you’re benefitting definitely inspires me to document more!
 
Nice write up Dobe! I remember spending lots of time doing things like this so people could see what I was doing and how I did it. I just don't really have the energy for it anymore as they take a while to do. I spend a good chunk of time PMing people and trying to answer questions on threads that I follow (or my own) that I haven't done something like this in a bit. It'd be fun to get all the pages together and copy them and put them in one thread because I think I've covered almost everything I do in a detailed explanation at some point. I just don't think it's possible with the way this forum is setup without a moderator doing all the work.

I'm glad to see all this information getting paid forward. It makes me smile knowing that there is a handful of people that grow basically the same way I do and are now teaching other people with a few tips and tricks of their own inserted in. Super clean writing style, nice use of fonts and sizes and great pictures. Lots of people will learn off this tutorial and you've made it very easy for them to do so! Next step for you is to win a Plant of the Month contest! ;)
 
So I saw your update in my notifications...yay! I immediately grabbed a new coffee, a joint and my note book, got cozy and got jotting;) I love your updates, so thorough and interesting. You have great writing skills and know how to capture your audience. You are very inclusive and I feel safe here. I think you said you were a teacher? I bet you are a great one ☝️

We train similarly, which I already knew but I also do a pre training finger manipulation (say that 3 times) lol . I just never thought to mention it so thanks! I also do slight pinches on the leaf tips to encourage growth in that direction (I don't know if it works but I like to think so) old gardening tip from my nan .

You basically put into words my version of gardening intuitively but thats taken years of practicing and mostly listening to how my plants respond....patience is the key lol not my forte but I'm learning as I get older;)

I did a few "supercropping light" today, everything is looking even! Thanks for walking me through it here!!

So many good points..."better ties" is now on my list .also we use the same trimmers, I always have a back up fiskars! Have a great day Dobewan .✌️
 
Quick progress update at lights on. We're at 32V on the Violator Kush and White Widow (front left and front center respectively), 30V on the Liberty Hazes (front and back right) and on Amnesia x OG (back left), and 28V on Royal Gorilla (back center). Everything is moving along well now. Training will need to be adjusted after I water tonight. I'll be potting up this coming weekend to the final 3 gallon smart pot homes for the 4 plants that go into flower now. The 2 that wait till likely stay in their 1 gallon plastic pots a little longer, so that they don't overpower the veg tent quickly.

Not sure when I'll flip yet - I've been in the 50-60 day range in the past, but that doesn't mean I'll go that long again. I'll flip when I feel like they're ready - or when I can no longer take the excitement of waiting!

20180122-all-32V-001.jpg
 
Nice write up Dobe! I remember spending lots of time doing things like this so people could see what I was doing and how I did it. I just don't really have the energy for it anymore as they take a while to do. I spend a good chunk of time PMing people and trying to answer questions on threads that I follow (or my own) that I haven't done something like this in a bit. It'd be fun to get all the pages together and copy them and put them in one thread because I think I've covered almost everything I do in a detailed explanation at some point. I just don't think it's possible with the way this forum is setup without a moderator doing all the work.

I'm glad to see all this information getting paid forward. It makes me smile knowing that there is a handful of people that grow basically the same way I do and are now teaching other people with a few tips and tricks of their own inserted in. Super clean writing style, nice use of fonts and sizes and great pictures. Lots of people will learn off this tutorial and you've made it very easy for them to do so! Next step for you is to win a Plant of the Month contest! ;)

Thanks Ase! I've definitely benefited from those times you've broken things down in your journal. I still regularly hit my bookmark to your feeding regimen if only as a refresher! So much knowledge gets passed along here that I thought it made sense to try to round some of it up.

I'd love to get a POTM at some point... and if I don't, it'd be pretty wild to see your "coaching tree" get one in 2018!

So I saw your update in my notifications...yay! I immediately grabbed a new coffee, a joint and my note book, got cozy and got jotting;) I love your updates, so thorough and interesting. You have great writing skills and know how to capture your audience. You are very inclusive and I feel safe here. I think you said you were a teacher? I bet you are a great one ☝️

We train similarly, which I already knew but I also do a pre training finger manipulation (say that 3 times) lol . I just never thought to mention it so thanks! I also do slight pinches on the leaf tips to encourage growth in that direction (I don't know if it works but I like to think so) old gardening tip from my nan .

You basically put into words my version of gardening intuitively but thats taken years of practicing and mostly listening to how my plants respond....patience is the key lol not my forte but I'm learning as I get older;)

I did a few "supercropping light" today, everything is looking even! Thanks for walking me through it here!!

So many good points..."better ties" is now on my list .also we use the same trimmers, I always have a back up fiskars! Have a great day Dobewan .✌️

Thanks newty! I've seen that finger manipulation used by others, they do "tip spreading" as well, which I've tried but have no idea as to how well it does or doesn't work. I'm glad it stood up to your past plant experience as this stuff was all new to me when I started. And I'm glad you can gain something from it as your training skills are already on point!

Wow incredible work DobeWan. Very well put together.

Thanks UA, much appreciated!
 
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