I've never experienced snowcaps. It's where a frosty covering kind of forms a layer over the entire bud tops. Looks like snowcaps. I think many burple LED growers see it.
You now know as much as I know... except I've seen some pretty photos of them.
Emmie's 6 Plant, True Living Organic, LED Grow Journal
- Thread starter Emilya Green
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I've never experienced snowcaps. It's where a frosty covering kind of forms a layer over the entire bud tops. Looks like snowcaps. I think many burple LED growers see it.
You now know as much as I know... except I've seen some pretty photos of them.
Highya Emmie,
I've heard of back building, but haven't seen the results. Now I have! Those nugs look half again bigger. Very nice. And, all the plant pics are gorgeous. Looks like top shelf buds, for sure. You're right about the NYC Diesel having a real nice form. Very pretty. Cheers to you
I've heard of back building, but haven't seen the results. Now I have! Those nugs look half again bigger. Very nice. And, all the plant pics are gorgeous. Looks like top shelf buds, for sure. You're right about the NYC Diesel having a real nice form. Very pretty. Cheers to you
As I put together the components for the soil I question the 2 sources of oyster shell. Crushed and ground. Assuming the recipe calls for them for timing I was able to find this chicken feed that is very chunky. I can go without it if it's not right but maybe you or someone has seen or used it before. I don't know how long it would hold onto its solid form. Is it used in soils? Calls for 3/4 cup in the batch.
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- #824
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
wow... those are some chunks! It would work quite well crushed up I would think, both in the soil and in my calmagphos recipe but I suspect that it would take a while for that to break down in soil. I use an oyster shell flour here... mo better.
Hmmm too much. I'll likely powder up the other pure oyster shell then for the fine, and use the courser for course and return this. The Rev addresses the problem of not being able to source both. Thanks!
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- #826
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
We are getting serious now. Zoom in and look at these trichomes.
Trainwreck
Trainwreck
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- #827
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Not to be outdone, IceBreaker
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- #828
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
And here at the end of my reach and a bit fuzzy, Super Cheese:
Reave
Well-Known Member
Very Nice!
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- #830
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Thank you Reave!
Oh, I forgot to mention that I have taken Wappa out of the drying tent a little early and moved her to 3 different processes as I promised I was going to do earlier. At this stage there were exactly 3 oz of semi dry buds. I picked out 1 oz of the very best buddage, and that went to my paper sack to dry out a little bit more before going through the traditional dry,burp down to 64 and then sit in the jar for a month to cure. Then I divided the remaining pile into 1 oz in a paper bag going into the crisper for a low and slow down to 65 cure, and the last ounce was rolled into a corn husk, vacuum sealed and placed in a crock pot full of water on warm for 24 hours to start the fermenting cure. Lots of wheels are turning here in Emmy's garden.
Oh, I forgot to mention that I have taken Wappa out of the drying tent a little early and moved her to 3 different processes as I promised I was going to do earlier. At this stage there were exactly 3 oz of semi dry buds. I picked out 1 oz of the very best buddage, and that went to my paper sack to dry out a little bit more before going through the traditional dry,burp down to 64 and then sit in the jar for a month to cure. Then I divided the remaining pile into 1 oz in a paper bag going into the crisper for a low and slow down to 65 cure, and the last ounce was rolled into a corn husk, vacuum sealed and placed in a crock pot full of water on warm for 24 hours to start the fermenting cure. Lots of wheels are turning here in Emmy's garden.
JustMeds
Well-Known Member
You will like the cob style cure I just know it.
Highya Emmie,
I love that you did the sous verde thing. Others have done well with the same process. I think the cobbing cure process has a lot of merit. I like it! And apparently there's plenty of room to make the whole process better.
Those are some seriously beautiful buds, colas, and nugs in the pics you posted. And they were a product of all organic nutrients? I do remember you used two different kinds of nutes, ones you made, and some (a lot) you bought (according to the Rev's book). Just retrying for the proper perspective. Well done, Emmie!
I love that you did the sous verde thing. Others have done well with the same process. I think the cobbing cure process has a lot of merit. I like it! And apparently there's plenty of room to make the whole process better.
Those are some seriously beautiful buds, colas, and nugs in the pics you posted. And they were a product of all organic nutrients? I do remember you used two different kinds of nutes, ones you made, and some (a lot) you bought (according to the Rev's book). Just retrying for the proper perspective. Well done, Emmie!
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- #833
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi Bode! I too am very curious about the cob cure. Some of the most remarkable pot ever seen was processed in a similar way and it was the only way to produce some of the iconic strains of the past where burying the product for a time in the local soil was the only way to cure it. (Panama Red) (Mozambique Poison)
Thank you for the compliments on the buds and yes they were all the product of true living organic growing, the key being that all of the needed nutrients are there in that 3 gallon container, either cooked into the soil or added in a layer or zone or spike in that container. My job was simply to keep the microlife alive and able to move those minerals up into the plant. I, being the crazy woman that I am, am not satisfied with stopping there, although that would be sufficient to grow great pot, and I also use natural home made nutrients such as my calmagphos+ from eggshells and vinegar, banana extract for gobs of potassium all through flower, and dandelion extract made from good old Missouri dandelions for its all around nutrient goodness. These natural fertilizers supercharge the grow, and the way they are produced, they hit the soil not only with their natural nutrients, but also the microlife that works to break them down and will continue to do so in the soil.
Hi Emilya, I have been following along since the start and have learned all sorts of good stuff. I am not brave enough to try out cob curing with my first grow in many years. It is however hanging in the grow room and is drying nice and slow, can't wait to try it as the smell is something else. I am also going to be using your banana extract on some clones that were flipped to 12/12 a week ago. They are in a SOG and doing great in a flood and drain system using cloth pots ,(pro mix hp). and your water and dry cycle. Just wanted to say thanks for upping my game and keep up the fascinating experiments with growing. 
Beautiful work Emilya. How do you like to end the grow? Trichome color, no new white hairs, stops drinking?
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- #836
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Thank you Blue! Glad to have helped and thanks for watching!Hi Emilya, I have been following along since the start and have learned all sorts of good stuff. I am not brave enough to try out cob curing with my first grow in many years. It is however hanging in the grow room and is drying nice and slow, can't wait to try it as the smell is something else. I am also going to be using your banana extract on some clones that were flipped to 12/12 a week ago. They are in a SOG and doing great in a flood and drain system using cloth pots ,(pro mix hp). and your water and dry cycle. Just wanted to say thanks for upping my game and keep up the fascinating experiments with growing.
Hi Otter! Each plant is different, so I really kind of try to do the overall picture thing on each plant as an individual all through the grow, even at the end. Generally though, I am looking for (except in certain strains) all of the pistils to have turned color and the buds to get a "chunky" look to them from the backbuilding. At the end, a few random white pistils will always be at the very top of the buds, right up to very end when they too finally pull back and change colors. If I see white pistils, I don't even really need to pull out my loupe and look at the trichomes. Speaking of which, I am looking for all cloudy with amber showing in the upper calyxes of the upper buds. The sun leaves just below that will always be amber before this very top does its thing, and I am waiting for that. At the end it is a daily inspection that tells me what is up there and I can usually spot with my naked eye when the bud has started to turn, but I verify with my loupe or my camera. My plants do not stop drinking... so that is not an indicator, at least not here. If I let a plant go to seed, at the end, when it actually dies, it does stop drinking.
I think we're on close pages. I harvest at cloudy with some amber in the upper buds. I swear I've had one or two stop drinking so I took them. Maybe they were on the edge of death. More critical viewing might make a difference of opinion on my end too. Thanks.Thank you Blue! Glad to have helped and thanks for watching!
Hi Otter! Each plant is different, so I really kind of try to do the overall picture thing on each plant as an individual all through the grow, even at the end. Generally though, I am looking for (except in certain strains) all of the pistils to have turned color and the buds to get a "chunky" look to them from the backbuilding. At the end, a few random white pistils will always be at the very top of the buds, right up to very end when they too finally pull back and change colors. If I see white pistils, I don't even really need to pull out my loupe and look at the trichomes. Speaking of which, I am looking for all cloudy with amber showing in the upper calyxes of the upper buds. The sun leaves just below that will always be amber before this very top does its thing, and I am waiting for that. At the end it is a daily inspection that tells me what is up there and I can usually spot with my naked eye when the bud has started to turn, but I verify with my loupe or my camera. My plants do not stop drinking... so that is not an indicator, at least not here. If I let a plant go to seed, at the end, when it actually dies, it does stop drinking.
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
I've done this dark ending myself, but I can't swear it works ? Next harvest, I'm gonna take close ups of before and after. Can't wait to see you using that new light. I've got to upgrade myself, and soon. You gonna document your build? You know, the how to build a grow light for dummy's !! I'm really thinking of attempting, just what you're doing. I've worked with (DC) automobile electrical, and follow instructions well.
Beautiful photo's.And here at the end of my reach and a bit fuzzy, Super Cheese:
FoNz
Well-Known Member
Emilya, your gals are looking so good. I'd love to cook with a cheese like that.
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- #840
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Thank you Slowpuffer! I did a side by side test with half of my crop a couple of years ago and documented it here. The dark periods going into the flip and at the end were tested, and both were found to be effective in what they were believed to accomplish.
Regarding building the light, it is already done and I have been using it to take some of these awesome pictures here at the end as I finish up with the colored LEDs. If you are interested in building one of these lights it is not hard at all. The hardest part is actually building the frame and attaching the heat sinks to it, but the wiring is a snap and I even added 2 extra power meters just to get fancy. When I get finished with this grow and move the chinese red/blue lights out of the tent, I want to do some experiments with measuring the PAR at various points in the tent and at different heights. I will document those tests and how I intend to use those PAR measurements in the next grow. As far as building and designing it, it took me a while to research out which light spectrum I really wanted to use, and then find the appropriate chips to do it. Then, to get the correct watts/sq foot you have to make decisions on how hard you wish to drive those lights. My chips are capable of 100 watts apiece, but they are the most efficient at 70% or less. The decision was made to use more lights, running less wattage, and better cover the space in the tent. Then after deciding on 6 lights, it was necessary to find the Meanwell driver that handled the desired wattage and number of lights and I decided to split that task up between two power supplies to add flexibility to the light. Then, a good online vendor was found who could source all the parts I would need in an easy to use ordering system so I didn't have to look all the parts up and learn exactly what parts were needed on my own. A couple of youtube videos, and I knew how to attach the cob to the holder and the holder to the heat sink, and then it was just a matter of lining up all the holes and putting it together. Two banks of 3 lights were wired up in series and I hit the test button after triple checking all of my connections, and I dang near blinded myself with how bright the thing was.
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