Not too bad! It might be one for Guinness world Records!
InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time
I do think I see some bronzing or something. Is that the phosphorus thing you were talking about?
Pretty much the same feed as the Carnival. Have you done a slurry test lately on the pots?
Well she sure is getting lots of N. Ties in with above response.
- Thread starter
- #21,604
LOL! I'll give them a call.
It is, from WSE's post on K deficiency. It would be more lockout in this case as demonstrated in Mulder's Chart. Excess K can lock out P, as can excess Ca.
I haven't done a slurry test on the ProMix HP, but if I can find my pH pen I will. It's all fresh, though the bags were over a year past their manufacture date.
Loving thay purple hue on your power plant!!! 
Those golden tiger buds look seriously good. I bet the smell is insane!
Popping through been a while since I've been here. Hope all is well. Can't wait to see the end result of that power plant!!
Those golden tiger buds look seriously good. I bet the smell is insane!
Popping through been a while since I've been here. Hope all is well. Can't wait to see the end result of that power plant!!
Smeegol
Well-Known Member
Gardens looking stunning mr. Shed, and a lovely bowl of buds to boot.... That chocolope turning out to be a proper little stunner hey... 
That just looks like purple genetics to me (so phenotypic expression). It’s the flowers not just the stems going purple. 
Looks great to me!
Looks great to me!
syenite
Well-Known Member
Congratulations on the Golden Tiger!
And....
Nice purple PP
Sorry.. I've been particularly puerile last day or so!
And....
Nice purple PP
Sorry.. I've been particularly puerile last day or so!
Highya Sheddie.
Your PP is beautiful.
Heavenly Hybrid
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the harvest and the purple pheno! It sure is pretty. 
- Thread starter
- #21,611
Thanks for dropping by DK! Funny thing about the Golden Tiger is it's the least smelly plant I've grown, alive or in jars.
Thanks Smeegol! The odd thing about the Chocolope is I'm getting a vanilla smell from it now
.I agree Amy. Even if it's having K issues, the purpling seems very genetic to me.
LOL...noice!
It's nice to hear it from someone besides my ego
Highya Sheddie.
Your PP is beautiful.
.Thanks double H!Congrats on the harvest and the purple pheno! It sure is pretty.
- Thread starter
- #21,612
How about a Thursday mini-update!
I'll start with the pics so that I can get Norcali's attention. Here are the three DDA's in the 7 gallon pot:
The shorty in the middle and the one on the right are on day 65 and will be coming down this weekend. The one on the left is on day 56.
Aphids absolutely adore these plants as you can see from the leaf damage. I have sprayed it a few times with Dr Bronner's unscented castille soap, but lately I've left it alone because the ladybugs are having a field day!
Two here:
And one on the other side of the top cola:
Not to mention all the larvae crawling around as well. Doing my bit to support nature.
[Wordy part below:]
Circling back to the possible bronzing of the leaves on the Power Plant (and the yellowing on the Carnival), I took @MrSauga's advice and ran a slurry test on all three of my flowering plants, as the odds of the plant having a phosphorus deficiency with MegCrop is very low. The results of the slurry test showed that they were all over 7.0 pH.
How is that possible using ProMix HP, which is buffered to 5.8 at the factory? Come sit 6 feet from me in a mask by the fire and I'll tell you. I bought three bags on sale at Lowe's back in June. They were selling out their stock at half price and looked like they weren't carrying it any more. When I got home I noticed the manufacture date on the bags was March 2019, with an admonishment to use within a year.
So I wrote to my contact at PremierTech (the manufacturer) and asked him what the downsides of old ProMix were, and he said:
"Because the peat moss used in making the product has some naturally occurring bacteria and fungi (not harmful), these microorganisms can biodegrade some ingredients over time. The product does not go bad, but it is different from when it is manufactured. Some of the changes that can occur with time include nitrogen drawdown, biodegradation of the wetting agent and elevation of pH. These changes are conditional depending on product storage over time. The warmer the storage temperature the more likely changes will occur.
If you have product that is dated, pH and nitrogen can be adjusted with one application of a water soluble fertilizer at 100 ppm of 'N' at planting. This is generally all that is needed to adjust the product."
He later went on to explain (again) that ammoniacal nitrogen will lower the pH of the medium (as mentioned in my much-maligned post here) so that would be the type to use.
Did I take his advice? No, I just figured it wouldn't be a problem...and I was wrong! Now the pH of the medium is out of joint, o cursed spite, so now I must attempt to make it right. I wrote him back for a solution, and he said:
"I would recommend applying some ... 20-10-20 general purpose fertilizer at 100 to 150 ppms of Nitrogen at each watering for about a week."
So I bought some 20-10-20 fertilizer from Amazon that is 8% ammoniacal nitrogen. The container doesn't mention the PPM of N, but as luck would have it, the only question asked there was answered thusly:
"1 oz of EZ-gro Orchid Fertilizer in 1 gallon (128 oz) of water is equal to 100 parts per million (ppm) of Nitrogen (N)"
So I'll be using this at 1.5 oz/gallon instead of MC for the next week on all three and see how they do.
That's what I've got for the day, and I hope yours is going well! Next update will have the two DDA harvests.
I'll start with the pics so that I can get Norcali's attention. Here are the three DDA's in the 7 gallon pot:
The shorty in the middle and the one on the right are on day 65 and will be coming down this weekend. The one on the left is on day 56.
Aphids absolutely adore these plants as you can see from the leaf damage. I have sprayed it a few times with Dr Bronner's unscented castille soap, but lately I've left it alone because the ladybugs are having a field day!
Two here:
And one on the other side of the top cola:
Not to mention all the larvae crawling around as well. Doing my bit to support nature
.[Wordy part below:]
Circling back to the possible bronzing of the leaves on the Power Plant (and the yellowing on the Carnival), I took @MrSauga's advice and ran a slurry test on all three of my flowering plants, as the odds of the plant having a phosphorus deficiency with MegCrop is very low. The results of the slurry test showed that they were all over 7.0 pH.
How is that possible using ProMix HP, which is buffered to 5.8 at the factory? Come sit 6 feet from me in a mask by the fire and I'll tell you. I bought three bags on sale at Lowe's back in June. They were selling out their stock at half price and looked like they weren't carrying it any more. When I got home I noticed the manufacture date on the bags was March 2019, with an admonishment to use within a year.
So I wrote to my contact at PremierTech (the manufacturer) and asked him what the downsides of old ProMix were, and he said:
"Because the peat moss used in making the product has some naturally occurring bacteria and fungi (not harmful), these microorganisms can biodegrade some ingredients over time. The product does not go bad, but it is different from when it is manufactured. Some of the changes that can occur with time include nitrogen drawdown, biodegradation of the wetting agent and elevation of pH. These changes are conditional depending on product storage over time. The warmer the storage temperature the more likely changes will occur.
If you have product that is dated, pH and nitrogen can be adjusted with one application of a water soluble fertilizer at 100 ppm of 'N' at planting. This is generally all that is needed to adjust the product."
He later went on to explain (again) that ammoniacal nitrogen will lower the pH of the medium (as mentioned in my much-maligned post here) so that would be the type to use.
Did I take his advice? No, I just figured it wouldn't be a problem...and I was wrong! Now the pH of the medium is out of joint, o cursed spite, so now I must attempt to make it right. I wrote him back for a solution, and he said:
"I would recommend applying some ... 20-10-20 general purpose fertilizer at 100 to 150 ppms of Nitrogen at each watering for about a week."
So I bought some 20-10-20 fertilizer from Amazon that is 8% ammoniacal nitrogen. The container doesn't mention the PPM of N, but as luck would have it, the only question asked there was answered thusly:
"1 oz of EZ-gro Orchid Fertilizer in 1 gallon (128 oz) of water is equal to 100 parts per million (ppm) of Nitrogen (N)"
So I'll be using this at 1.5 oz/gallon instead of MC for the next week on all three and see how they do.
That's what I've got for the day, and I hope yours is going well! Next update will have the two DDA harvests.
JCTJ
Well-Known Member
Nice write up on the ProMix HP, learning something new every day!
Thanks for the info Shed!
I'm wondering if it would be wise to start at half dose and work up. One answered question is a small sample to go on.
The date on the bag of promix is the manufacturer's date?
- Thread starter
- #21,617
Thanks JC! It also might answer some questions like "why are my plants not doing well when I don't pH my nutrients?"
Thank you for the slurry test recommendation!
At 5.5g/gallon of MC I'd be at 131-37-205, so if I'm at 150 N with this stuff I'd be at 150-75-150. Doesn't seem outrageous, does it?
Yes.
Oh wow! I wonder why? Sure looks tasty af!
Not really no. I can't say for sure if the ppm for ammoniacal and nitrate would react the same. We shoot for around 150ppm with MC which is more nitrate based, so as long as the ppm is the same then it really should make no difference.
Here's a handy little chart I came across. You may have it already but it's here for others.
The ratio of nitrate to ammoniacal nitrogen in a fertilizer determines the rate of substrate pH change and can even be used to correct pH during production. The pH changing property is known as a fertilizer’s potential acidity or basicity and is listed on a fertilizer’s label
High pH can be corrected by switching to a more acidic fertilizer. One example is 21-5- 20 fertilizer which has a potential acidity of about 400. Application of 1 ton of 21-5-20 causes acidification which would require 400 pounds of calcium carbonate limestone to counteract. Similarly, 15-0-15 has 420 pounds of potential basicity and can be used to increase a low pH. For crops that are known to have issues with pH decline (such as zonal geraniums), using a nitrate-based fertilizer such as 15-5-15 may aid in slowing or stopping pH decline over time. The greater the potential acidity or basicity, the more pH change occurs.
[SOURCE]
The ratio of nitrate to ammoniacal nitrogen in a fertilizer determines the rate of substrate pH change and can even be used to correct pH during production. The pH changing property is known as a fertilizer’s potential acidity or basicity and is listed on a fertilizer’s label
High pH can be corrected by switching to a more acidic fertilizer. One example is 21-5- 20 fertilizer which has a potential acidity of about 400. Application of 1 ton of 21-5-20 causes acidification which would require 400 pounds of calcium carbonate limestone to counteract. Similarly, 15-0-15 has 420 pounds of potential basicity and can be used to increase a low pH. For crops that are known to have issues with pH decline (such as zonal geraniums), using a nitrate-based fertilizer such as 15-5-15 may aid in slowing or stopping pH decline over time. The greater the potential acidity or basicity, the more pH change occurs.
[SOURCE]
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