Sqwheels' Perpetual 2L Hempy + Moms

[sqwheels]

I agree 420%! Everything looks fantastic and it looks like your photography skills are improving with your grow skills!

I can be taught... with a little time and patience

 

[HomeMedGrower]

Hi HMG,

Thanks for the compliment, I'm trying not to get too excited, they have several weeks to go, but yes, I agree...they're looking good.

water/feed...really good ?? I've been meaning to comment on this because it's so different than the last grow. I've only had to water these every other day, about 8-10 oz ea, and I've lowered the ppms on their nutes vs the last grow...they are smaller plants so this could account for the change, they don't need as much...

I actually have done it this time by feel, if I can stick my finger down into the edge of the 2L and feel moisture, I wait. I lift the pot, if it's really, really lite, I water. I think I kept the last batch too wet, so I've made some adjustments this time around. After a flush, they are heavy for 3 days, but after regular watering they feel dry/lite in 2

I'm really trying harder to listen to the plants, I know that probably sounds weird, but that's how I've done it this time

I watered yesterday with just PH'd tap and today I feed and they all took about 16 oz of water today. They look a little droopy not bad just not reaching for the light. If you get a chance check it out it's in my sig.

 

[sqwheels]

The stalks and branches are basically hollow. Kinda surprised you weren't aware of that. It's obviously more noticeable when you make a sharp clean cut on a thicker branch/stalk.

You can pinch it closed if you want to stop anything from entering it. Looks like a good top all the same.

Hi Bassman,

Actually I didn't know. All the cuts I've made have looked more like the OGkush...this is the first time I've cut a stalk and had it be hollow.

I know there are lots of things I'm still unaware of, that's why I need all of you

Thanks for lookin' in...how's your clone issue?

 

[Xlr8]

Hi Bassman,

Actually I didn't know. All the cuts I've made have looked more like the OGkush...this is the first time I've cut a stalk and had it be hollow.

I know there are lots of things I'm still unaware of, that's why I need all of you

Thanks for lookin' in...how's your clone issue?

It's a lifelong process - learning about this plant. I kinda enjoy that there isn't a lot of "professional" science on our plant. (At least like there would be if it were fully federally legal). The discovery and learning for myself is part of what I enjoy most.

You are really making great strides as a grower, Sqwheels - I love following your journals and progress. I appreciate the tutorial on how you clone - it's similar to how I intend to do it, and your info was helpful and beneficial to me. I might have to hit you up if I run into questions if you don't mind...

 

[420fied]

WOW.... where do I start? I remember when you were as green as a John Deere tractor. Oh my, how far you've came. Your plants are frosty, healthy, and vigorous and your knowledge bank is obviously expanding. Your SOG plants are as pretty as any I've seen,... including my own. The pleasure of watching you evolve as a grower always puts a smile on my face. May all your nugs be frosty and dense.

5* rated and repped!

 

[Xlr8]

WOW.... where do I start? I remember when you were as green as a John Deere tractor. Oh my, how far you've came. Your plants are frosty, healthy, and vigorous and your knowledge bank is obviously expanding. Your SOG plants are as pretty as any I've seen,... including my own. The pleasure of watching you evolve as a grower always puts a smile on my face. May all your nugs be frosty and dense.

5* rated and repped!

Just realized I hadn't rated your thread, either. 5 stars from me too... 420fied is right on, btw.

 

[sqwheels]

420fied, X,

Thanks guys, you make me blush. I really appreciate it...all the help and advice I've gotten here has made it possible...really.

I was just looking at them this morning, I'm so excited, if things continue like they are this will be my best grow yet. They are showing slight signs off N def I think, but at this stage I think that's normal. Today is day 42 of 12/12.

I can tell they are putting on weight now, they look heavy and sticky. This Wonder Woman is some of the frostiest I've ever seen, I can't take a picture that really shows it accurately.

Thanks again yall...for everything



edit: and thanks for the rating and reps, it means so much coming from such great growers like yourselves

 

[Mr. Krip]

Yellowing on the leaves is normal in the last couple of weeks of flower. The plants think winter is coming, so it's their "Autumn" and the leaves are changing colors as the plant uses up the last of the stored nutes.

Most likely not an N deficiency, since the plant uses more N during veg and the first week or two of flower.

 

[sqwheels]

Hi Mr.K,

I think you've seen the charts and such I've been using for analysis...if not, there are several in "myphotos" section.

Here's a couple things I'm still wondering about...from what I've been able to discern from the huge amount of info out there are a few basics

veg vs flower requires differing amounts of NPK but that your plants require some of each the entire cycle...now the symptoms of N def are as follows...leaves can't produce chlorophyll and yellow between the veins, while the veins remain dark green, yellowing continues until the leaves die and drop... younger leaves develop interveinal chlorosis. This is what my 42 days 12/12 wonder woman look like

this pic is almost a week old now, but you can see the interveinal yellowing I'm seeing...now since I defoliated @ 21 days, the bigger leaves at the top are the oldest leaves on the plant...the newer/smaller leaves that I didn't pinch are also showing these same signs...so it leads me to think its N. even tho they are 42 days in 12/12. The nutes I use are NPK 4-8-7 and I've been adding molasses regularly to increase the K. These plants have shown this same symptom the entire grow...If you look back to just before 21 days 12/12 defoliate you can see how severe it was. I think maybe I should have given a little of both grow and bloom at the start of 12/12. I did not.

This is my current dilema...Monday is 45 days 12/12...do I defoliate again? The first time I did, I took everything I could get a hold of. Consequently there isn't much there this time, very few leaves have a stem, and the ones that do all show interveinal yellowing which means the plant is using what it has in reserve to supply what it needs currently...does that make sense? Sorry...it's Friday and I've had a beer (only one...but I'm a cheap date, I only need one) so I feel like I'm rambling a bit.

Thanks for looking, I think I should reserve any further comments til a later time when I can compose my thoughts a little better.

Have a great w/e

 

[Mr. Krip]

Hi Mr.K,

I think you've seen the charts and such I've been using for analysis...if not, there are several in "myphotos" section.

Here's a couple things I'm still wondering about...from what I've been able to discern from the huge amount of info out there are a few basics

veg vs flower requires differing amounts of NPK but that your plants require some of each the entire cycle...now the symptoms of N def are as follows...leaves can't produce chlorophyll and yellow between the veins, while the veins remain dark green, yellowing continues until the leaves die and drop... younger leaves develop interveinal chlorosis. This is what my 42 days 12/12 wonder woman look like

this pic is almost a week old now, but you can see the interveinal yellowing I'm seeing...now since I defoliated @ 21 days, the bigger leaves at the top are the oldest leaves on the plant...the newer/smaller leaves that I didn't pinch are also showing these same signs...so it leads me to think its N. even tho they are 42 days in 12/12. The nutes I use are NPK 4-8-7 and I've been adding molasses regularly to increase the K. These plants have shown this same symptom the entire grow...If you look back to just before 21 days 12/12 defoliate you can see how severe it was. I think maybe I should have given a little of both grow and bloom at the start of 12/12. I did not.

This is my current dilema...Monday is 45 days 12/12...do I defoliate again? The first time I did, I took everything I could get a hold of. Consequently there isn't much there this time, very few leaves have a stem, and the ones that do all show interveinal yellowing which means the plant is using what it has in reserve to supply what it needs currently...does that make sense? Sorry...it's Friday and I've had a beer (only one...but I'm a cheap date, I only need one) so I feel like I'm rambling a bit.

Thanks for looking, I think I should reserve any further comments til a later time when I can compose my thoughts a little better.

Have a great w/e

Sqwheels, you are 420% correct that the plant needs N, P & K (and a bunch of other elements) throughout it's entire life cycle. But, at different stages in its growth, it requires more, or less, of each element. This is why your Micro and Bloom formulas have different N, P, K ratios, and by mixing them both in different amounts, you can accomodate the plant through the entire life cycle.

Now, as for your yellowing, the intervenal banding really sounds like a Magnesium deficiency. When it's an N deficiency, the leaves tend to yellow uniformly, not just between the veins.

Both N and Mg are "mobile" elements, which means the plant can move them from one location to another, when they're needed. This also means that, in both cases, signs will typically show lower on the plant (older growth), since it will move those elements to support the new growth.

If you haven't seen it yet, this link is very helpful and is different than the "pictorial":

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

The first three items, discuss what we're talking about:

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

So, by your description, and the pics I've seen, I remain convinced it's a Mg issue and adding some more mag should help. (note: your leaf margins look turnd up, too!)

I'd try to get the plant healthy before I did another "heavy" defoliation, but if you want to remove a leaf or two to open up a couple of bud sites, I'm sure it won't be an issue.

Main focus should be getting the plant healthy so it can focus it's energy on flowering and not trying to heal itself!

 

[OG13]

I have an OPINION here, when you defoliate heavily, the plant grows(replaces) most leaves over time. That requires Nitrogen as if in "veg". I would guess that defoliated plants need more N during flower than plants left w/ their leaves. I'm also guessing that BPN has more N than what you are using since 420fied didn't have the yellowing. A bunch of growers have dark green leaves up to harvest, based on different feed (or different nutes) schedules. I'm w/ Mr. K not to defoliate heavy, just as needed, and let the plant coast it out. Next grow try some new nutes.

 

[Bassman59]

I have an OPINION here, when you defoliate heavily, the plant grows(replaces) most leaves over time. That requires Nitrogen as if in "veg". I would guess that defoliated plants need more N during flower than plants left w/ their leaves. I'm also guessing that BPN has more N than what you are using since 420fied didn't have the yellowing. A bunch of growers have dark green leaves up to harvest, based on different feed (or different nutes) schedules. I'm w/ Mr. K not to defoliate heavy, just as needed, and let the plant coast it out. Next grow try some new nutes.

Just wait. Come Monday-Wednesday I will strip the shit out of my girls at about 45 days flower. I'll provide before defoliation, after defoliation, and 3, 4, 5, 7-8 days after defoliation pictures. You may be pleasantly surprised. There are plenty of growers out there stripping the hell out of their little pubescent girls and getting very high production with no nutrient problems whatsoever. There is a method to the madness as contrary to what we would normally believe it is.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Just wait. Come Monday-Wednesday I will strip the shit out of my girls at about 45 days flower. I'll provide before defoliation, after defoliation, and 3, 4, 5, 7-8 days after defoliation pictures. You may be pleasantly surprised. There are plenty of growers out there stripping the hell out of their little pubescent girls and getting very high production with no nutrient problems whatsoever. There is a method to the madness as contrary to what we would normally believe it is.

Bass, we're all believers in defoliation. The issue is whether to defoliate a SICK plant.

 

[Bassman59]

Oh, shizzle. Just got home from work, tired, lazy, didnt read anything above.

I'll shaddup now.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Oh, shizzle. Just got home from work, tired, lazy, didnt read anything above.

I'll shaddup now.

No problem, Brother!

I just knew you missed that part and may want to weigh in on the issue. Sqwheels and I both defoliate heavily at 21 & 45 days of 12/12 but her plants appear to have a Mg deficiency and she's coming up on 45 days, so was looking for input.

 

[Bassman59]

Yes I agree on the mag. Might want to check ph for lockout first. Then maybe trim the yellow leaves only when you add some mag or fix ph. Give it 4 days fix. If everything is good, puttem up on stage with a strippers pole imo.

Edit: Besides, it's not an absolute has to be 45 days. Anytime they are too leafy is fine. Mine are monster crowded now at 41 days but my back hurts, I'm tired, and probably wont do anything before monday. As long as I watch the humidity with the mass of leaves, a cpl days wont hurt.

 

[HomeMedGrower]

Sqwheels, you are 420% correct that the plant needs N, P & K (and a bunch of other elements) throughout it's entire life cycle. But, at different stages in its growth, it requires more, or less, of each element. This is why your Micro and Bloom formulas have different N, P, K ratios, and by mixing them both in different amounts, you can accomodate the plant through the entire life cycle.

Now, as for your yellowing, the intervenal banding really sounds like a Magnesium deficiency. When it's an N deficiency, the leaves tend to yellow uniformly, not just between the veins.

Both N and Mg are "mobile" elements, which means the plant can move them from one location to another, when they're needed. This also means that, in both cases, signs will typically show lower on the plant (older growth), since it will move those elements to support the new growth.

If you haven't seen it yet, this link is very helpful and is different than the "pictorial":

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

The first three items, discuss what we're talking about:



So, by your description, and the pics I've seen, I remain convinced it's a Mg issue and adding some more mag should help. (note: your leaf margins look turnd up, too!)

I'd try to get the plant healthy before I did another "heavy" defoliation, but if you want to remove a leaf or two to open up a couple of bud sites, I'm sure it won't be an issue.

Main focus should be getting the plant healthy so it can focus it's energy on flowering and not trying to heal itself!

Mr Krip, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you on this one. I have a hard time with these two N and Mg. By looking at her picture you can see it is starting at the tip and working its way back to the node. I copied this from Plant Pictorial

Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element

Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.

Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell... the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that's not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn't show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolour and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Mr Krip, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you on this one. I have a hard time with these two N and Mg. By looking at her picture you can see it is starting at the tip and working its way back to the node. I copied this from Plant Pictorial

Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element

Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.

Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell... the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that's not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn't show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolour and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.

HoMe, I'm open to disagreement and I may very well be wrong, but text you copied above says about Mg that:

The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.

I agree that a N deficiency is normal late in flower, and again I may be wrong, but I still think it looks like Mg.

 

[HomeMedGrower]

HoMe, I'm open to disagreement and I may very well be wrong, but text you copied above says about Mg that:

The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves.

I agree that a N deficiency is normal late in flower, and again I may be wrong, but I still think it looks like Mg.

The bold part is what makes me think N by her picture. This is just my opinion I have been reading your journal for a little while and have mu respect for you and your growing abilities.

 

[Twelve12]

Plants are looking great, sqwheels!