HashGirl's 2021/2022 Grow: Blue Dream, Clementine, Gelato & Pineapple Express In ProMix

[HashGirl]

Hmm....that sounds exactly like what we're talking about. Only two things I can think of then are these:

- do you seal that plastic baggie you put it in? Probably don't wanna do that if so.

The baggies have been sealed. I didn't know that they were supposed to be open.

- where are you getting your seeds from? I can suggest several non-sponsored seed places, in the US, that I've used successfully if you think that might be an issue. Message me, I don't wanna step on any sponsor's toes (if you want).

- All of the seeds we bought were bought from reputable seed shops except for my latest purchase from a new, Canadian seed shop that I wanted to support.

Also, I disagree with VG on that one point. Always plant stem down seed coat up. That's the way the plant is going to sort itself out no matter how you plant it, so why would you want to make it more difficult on the seedling by planting it any way but that? That's my philosophy anyway, not saying VG is wrong, just that we disagree.

I only tried it sideways since nothing else had worked.

Azi shared this pic with me recently and it looks like plant stem up is how I'm supposed to plant.

Yep, I don't poke into the water either. I actually thought the idea, besides to swell the seed with water, was that if you float it overnight and it's on the bottom of the glass in the morning, or if it immediately sinks when gently pushed to the bottom, then that seed is viable. Those that won't sink are not. Not sure if it's true, never tried to plant one that didn't sink. But I'm with you on that.

Most of the seeds I've planted this year haven't sunk and they turned out fine.

I've considered the heat mat, I'm sure it's a good idea. But for me given the outdoors here I just let the tent stay open in seedling and the plants stay at about 80-83 degrees and 70% Rh, ie, the outdoor environment. They love it. But still, a mat would make things better and no open tent. Nice.

The viable seeds sinking is an old wives tale. I've not noticed any difference at all between floaters and sinkers. And they crack just fine floating on the surface.

Actually, the paper towel method is much closer to nature. The seed is nestled in a moist, but not overly wet, environment with better access to air presuming you don't seal the bag. When I do it that way I soak the paper towel then hold it up by a corner to let the excess water drip off. Then I fold it a few times, lay the seed on top and slide it into a baggie. Then I'll lay it it in a dark and warm place until it springs a tail. With this method you can easily see when it sprouts since the seed is up against the clear bag.

Much easier and faster to check than digging the towel out of the bag and trying to peel the sheets apart and then putting it all back together.

I also don't ever handle the seed, but rather use pair of tweezers to keep diseases off.

And finally, I use a bit of fresh worm castings diluted in water. The worm castings are known to ward off 'damping off' disease. I use the water to soak the seed and then pour it over the soil to inoculate it.

HG,

Sounds like getting the seed to crack and throw a tail is working so that suggests your issues come when you plant them.

The two things that come to mind are your mix and environment.

For environment make sure you have moist and warm temps. I don't know what a PVR is, but I assume it throws some heat? But not too much heat so as not to cook them?

The PVR is our satellite TV's recording device. It's nice and warm on top and it has gotten me taproots.

Also, I don't use Promix, but seem to remember that is peat based, so maybe pH is an issue? Maybe try a simple inert seed starting mix, at least for the top few inches of your cup where the seed will initially be.

And the lightly water each day as others have stated.

After I plant the seed, the solo cup goes on the baker's rack and is approximately 12" from the light. I don't currently use a heat pad but I could if it was deemed necessary since we do have one. Other possibilities include doming the cups or try starting the seeds in hempy.

I just don't know why it's so hard now. I didn't have any problems with the 34 other seeds I've planted since I started growing.

 

[Azimuth]

I just don't know why it's so hard now. I didn't have any problems with the 34 other seeds I've planted since I started growing.

Could be a combination of things. What are the ambient temps where you are now?

 

[Azimuth]

I only tried it sideways since nothing else had worked.

Azi shared this pic with me recently and it looks like plant stem up is how I'm supposed to plant.

Keep in mind that the root should be planted down, unless you're doing it like Otter does. He plants it when there is only a hint of tap root showing. In this case, you plant the seed pointy side up because the root wants to do a little curl when it first emerges which helps it lever off the seed coat as it pushes up through the medium. Pointy side up also if you plant the seed before you see any roots.

On the other hand, you have said that you like to plant them when they have a good amount of root showing. In this case, the thing should be planted so the top of the seed coat is 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch deep with the root below it down into the medium. In this case, you may have to manually help it shed the seed coat which brings a whole other set of issues with it.

Also, doing it this way (waiting until there is a good amount of root) brings with it more risk of damaging the tap root when you plant it.

I think @StoneOtter has it right. Plant it as soon as you see the seed coat split and the tap root just begin to emerge. Plant the seed with the emerging tap root pointed up using tweezers and cover gently with your medium. Water it in to settle the medium around the seed, put it on a gentle heat and give it a few days to show itself, lightly spritzing it everyday to be sure the medium stays moist.

I think you'd have better results doing it this way.

 

[Jon]

Keep in mind that the root should be planted down, unless you're doing it like Otter does. He plants it when there is only a hint of tap root showing. In this case, you plant it pointy side up because the root wants to wrap itself around the seed coat which helps it lever it off as it pushes up through the medium. Pointy side up also if you plant it before you see any roots.

On the other hand, you have said that you like to plant them when they have a good amount of root. In this case, the thing should be planted so the top of the seed coat is 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch deep with the root down into the medium. In this case, you may have to manually help it shed the seed coat which bring a whole other set of issues with it.

DING DING DING!!!!!!

 

[InTheShed]

I've never understood the long tap root paper towel method except it makes you feel like you know it's growing when you plant it. When a seed splits in nature it's located in its final home and doesn't get handled or exposed to light after that. Tails also mean that you will have to make a bigger and deeper hole to put it into so as not to damage the tap root.

Way too many variables for me. I plant them like Otter does, as soon as they split, and I try to drop them in with the tap pointing down (though some end up sideways) and have never had one with a tap root above soil yet.

I think warmth is key, so I always sprout at 80ºF. Not just the heat mat, the entire environment. My temp gauge is in the actual peat.

HG! I do know that one of those seed sellers had their first word replaced with "crap" because of seed germination problems.

 

[Azimuth]

I've never understood the long tap root paper towel method except it makes you feel like you know it's growing when you plant it. When a seed splits in nature it's located in its final home and doesn't get handled or exposed to light after that. Tails also mean that you will have to make a bigger and deeper hole to put it into so as not to damage the tap root.

Agreed. More of a leap of faith to plant them right after they split since the root hasn't shown much progress, but I do think it is the best way to do it.

Way too many variables for me. I plant them like Otter does, as soon as they split, and I try to drop them in with the tap pointing down (though some end up sideways) and have never had one with a tap root above soil yet.

How about helmet head, do you find yourself having to help many along?

I think warmth is key, so I always sprout at 80ºF. Not just the heat mat, the entire environment. My temp gauge is in the actual peat.

That looks like a science experiment!

 

[InTheShed]

How about helmet head, do you find yourself having to help many along?

I haven't gotten any helmet heads since I started planting a little bit deeper. Now I'm closer to ½", but I have to say I just stick a pencil point in and don't actually measure!

That looks like a science experiment

LOL! Someone asked if I was injecting some secret formula into the peat via the wire. I had to explain it was a basic temp gauge.

 

[HashGirl]

Okay, folks, I have 2 seedlings of Clementine (finally). The Gelatos are almost 40 days' old and the Clementines are supposed to share the tent with them.

CLEMENTINE x2 - Major Terpenes include (in order of most to least) Terpinolene, Myrcene, Pinene

The Clementine marijuana strain is a Sativa-dominant hybrid that will provide you with a great way to start your day. This weed will give the users an energizing and revitalizing effect which users love to use to put a pep in their work attitude or any task they are doing. With a 60% Sativa to 40% Indica ratio, this weed will offer a variety of mind and body high which smokers enjoy. A THC level of 18%, expect a powerful cerebral high that will also give a euphoric and relaxed feeling to be enjoyed. With a genetic background coming from Tangie crossed with Lemon Skunk marijuana strains, expect a full-bodied citrus explosion of aroma and flavors.

Clementine is a relatively easy strain to grow as it is naturally highly resistant to common molds and mildew.

While Clementine seeds can be grown indoors or outdoors, it thrives outdoors in a semi-humid climate. The optimal daytime temperature range for this plant is between 72-80 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the plant can grow quite tall, it requires regular pruning and trimming to keep its height and shape under control.

The indoor flowering period for Clementine weed is between 8-9 weeks and yields 11 ounces per square meter. Outdoor growers can expect a higher average yield of approximately 15 ounces per square meter. It is generally ready for harvesting around the middle of October.

Type:	Sativa-dominant (60%)
Genetics Parents:	Tangie x Lemon Skunk
Flowering Period:	8 to 9 weeks
Climate:	Warm, Sunny, and Dry
Yield:	11 ounces indoors and 15 ounces outdoors
Flavors:	Citrus, Sweet, Earthy, Spicy
THC Level:	18%
CBD Level:	1%
Height:	Tall
Harvest Period:	mid-October
Growing Difficulty:	Easy

Clem1:

Clem2:

Felonious and I believe the seed issue was a ProMix issue. I thought he said that we reuse our ProMix so I emptied the GSC pots into our dirt bin but I was wrong. These seeds were planted in fresh ProMix. These ones also had a little Dynomyco added. The other ones didn't because I had run out.

 

[DeeBoy]

Okay people, I need some help here. The last time I actually got a seed to grow into a plant was with the Gelatos on October 2. I'm actually afraid to plant any more seeds since I have planted all of the following seeds to no avail:

• 50 Dark Devil auto seeds made by Rifleman (I had been warned that they may not be viable due to heat issues.)
• 5 Purple Kush seeds from Crop King. The seeds were 4 years' old so that may have been why they didn't germinate.
• 2 Aurora Indica seeds from 2018.
• 2 Clementine seeds from Rocket Seeds, purchased this year.

I currently have 2 more Clementine, 2 Northern Light autos, 1 Jack Herer auto and 1 Quarter Pounder auto seeds in paper towel.

The only two recent changes with my seed planting are that I'm using reused ProMix that had GeoFlora residue in it and the other recent change is that I ran out of Dynomyco and didn't use it for the seeds that didn't amount to anything. Other than that, I don't know what's going on. Maybe, I'll get Felonious to plant them.

In the meantime, here is proof of life for the Gelatos. They're now 34 and 35 days old. They were both up-potted to 1-gallon pots. Unfortunately, I read that they don't like being transplanted after I up-potted them and now, it means that I will have to subject them to it again since a 1-gallon pot isn't very big. And, I also topped them. Here are some pics:

GEL1 - Day 34:

GEL2 - Day 33:

They look nice! I just wish I could get all of mine to grow strait up from the center pf the pot. Mine look like your #2 there, all curvy...

 

[DeeBoy]

The way that I process seeds is like this:

• Seed goes into a glass of water for 24 to 48 hours.
• Seed goes into a damp paper towel in a baggie, stored on top of the PVR.
• When seed shows a decent tap root, I plant.
• The cup the seed goes into is half filled with re-used ProMix and then I lightly water it, add more ProMix and then using a pen, poke a shallow hole in the surface and plant the seed. I have tried planting the seed with the taproot pointed down and pointed up and placed sideways as per VirginGround's advice.
• I cover the seed with a thin layer of dirt and spray water lightly on the surface every morning (and evening if they look dry).

And, that's it.

Have you noticed a difference based upon which way you point the taproot? My current grow I tried the root pointed up & they just came up at weird angles. I think I'll take The Beastie Boys advice from now on... ROOT DOWN!

 

[InTheShed]

Congrats on the new sprouts HG! Clementine sounds like a delicious variety, and I sure hope it can live up to those predicted harvest weights.

Nice detective work on the ProMix. I mostly save the used stuff for the garden plants.

 

[Nev]

Yes indeed Congratulations on getting the Clementines up. It sounds as if they will become a good sized plant and now they have to get busy and catch the Gelatos.

When this one’s complicated it’s going to be YumYum time.

 

[cr8grow]

Okay, folks, I have 2 seedlings of Clementine (finally). The Gelatos are almost 40 days' old and the Clementines are supposed to share the tent with them.

CLEMENTINE x2 - Major Terpenes include (in order of most to least) Terpinolene, Myrcene, Pinene

The Clementine marijuana strain is a Sativa-dominant hybrid that will provide you with a great way to start your day. This weed will give the users an energizing and revitalizing effect which users love to use to put a pep in their work attitude or any task they are doing. With a 60% Sativa to 40% Indica ratio, this weed will offer a variety of mind and body high which smokers enjoy. A THC level of 18%, expect a powerful cerebral high that will also give a euphoric and relaxed feeling to be enjoyed. With a genetic background coming from Tangie crossed with Lemon Skunk marijuana strains, expect a full-bodied citrus explosion of aroma and flavors.

Clementine is a relatively easy strain to grow as it is naturally highly resistant to common molds and mildew.

While Clementine seeds can be grown indoors or outdoors, it thrives outdoors in a semi-humid climate. The optimal daytime temperature range for this plant is between 72-80 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the plant can grow quite tall, it requires regular pruning and trimming to keep its height and shape under control.

The indoor flowering period for Clementine weed is between 8-9 weeks and yields 11 ounces per square meter. Outdoor growers can expect a higher average yield of approximately 15 ounces per square meter. It is generally ready for harvesting around the middle of October.

Type:	Sativa-dominant (60%)
Genetics Parents:	Tangie x Lemon Skunk
Flowering Period:	8 to 9 weeks
Climate:	Warm, Sunny, and Dry
Yield:	11 ounces indoors and 15 ounces outdoors
Flavors:	Citrus, Sweet, Earthy, Spicy
THC Level:	18%
CBD Level:	1%
Height:	Tall
Harvest Period:	mid-October
Growing Difficulty:	Easy

Clem1:

Clem2:

Felonious and I believe the seed issue was a ProMix issue. I thought he said that we reuse our ProMix so I emptied the GSC pots into our dirt bin but I was wrong. These seeds were planted in fresh ProMix. These ones also had a little Dynomyco added. The other ones didn't because I had run out.

HashGirl, it will be interesting to watch how you keep those two under control. Cheers

 

[Trala]

Congratulations Mumma Bear!

I can’t wait to watch your grow magic.

 

[Carcass]

Good looking little Clementine sprouts, HG!
They're so cute when they're babies...

 

[MrSauga]

Good morning, MrSauga.

From what Candy posted about silica, I understand that it's good for the plants. However, I was trying to use silica to beef up the stalks so that I didn't have floppy plants (I hate floppy plants). I've been adding 1 ml/litre of silica. I'm using Grotek's Gro-Silica, which is made up of:

GroTek Gro-Silic (Available Silicon (Si(OH)4) .......... 44.0%, Boron (B)(actual) .......... 0.009%, Molybdenum (Mo)(actual) .......... 0.0015%)

I thought I would bring your quote over here. I left the rest of the answer over there, but since this was an add-on to the converstion I thought it was best to keep it in your journal.

The GroTek you are using is highly concentrated, and when you say you are using 1mL/liter you are actually feeding around 440ppm of silicia silica. I feed around 50ppm during veg and drop that down to 30ppm in flower.
When plants are a couple of weeks old I will start at 30ppm, which equates to .07 gm/L. The gram weight is close to the same as the mL weight, for our purposes, so its around .07 mL/L.

When you get into full veg you should increase it to .1 gm, or .1 mL/L. Then when in flower you are back to .07 mL/L.
It's hard to work in small amounts like that, so you should dilute it to make it easier to work with.
Shed's better at nailing that stuff down, and he actually enjoys it. He can probably tell you what to mix it at to make it easier for you to dispense.

Hope that helps.

 

[InTheShed]

440ppm of silicia silica.

LOL! Only mine is named silicia.

Shed's better at nailing that stuff down, and he actually enjoys it. He can probably tell you what to mix it at to make it easier for you to dispense.

Me? You are my nute guru, so how can I be better at this? What you really mean is you're too busy, right?

 

[MrSauga]

Me? You are my nute guru, so how can I be better at this? What you really mean is you're too busy, right?

No, what I meant is if she wanted a 10% solution what amount of water would she need to make a liter of it? That, and when two trains are travelling different directions always confuse me.

 

[MrSauga]

It could probably be like 5% even. Currently it's a 44% solution. They say 1L makes 6700 liters.

 

[Jon]

I thought I would bring your quote over here. I left the rest of the answer over there, but since this was an add-on to the converstion I thought it was best to keep it in your journal.

The GroTek you are using is highly concentrated, and when you say you are using 1mL/liter you are actually feeding around 440ppm of silicia silica. I feed around 50ppm during veg and drop that down to 30ppm in flower.
When plants are a couple of weeks old I will start at 30ppm, which equates to .07 gm/L. The gram weight is close to the same as the mL weight, for our purposes, so its around .07 mL/L.

When you get into full veg you should increase it to .1 gm, or .1 mL/L. Then when in flower you are back to .07 mL/L.
It's hard to work in small amounts like that, so you should dilute it to make it easier to work with.
Shed's better at nailing that stuff down, and he actually enjoys it. He can probably tell you what to mix it at to make it easier for you to dispense.

Hope that helps.

I thought I would bring your quote over here. I left the rest of the answer over there, but since this was an add-on to the converstion I thought it was best to keep it in your journal.

The GroTek you are using is highly concentrated, and when you say you are using 1mL/liter you are actually feeding around 440ppm of silicia silica. I feed around 50ppm during veg and drop that down to 30ppm in flower.
When plants are a couple of weeks old I will start at 30ppm, which equates to .07 gm/L. The gram weight is close to the same as the mL weight, for our purposes, so its around .07 mL/L.

When you get into full veg you should increase it to .1 gm, or .1 mL/L. Then when in flower you are back to .07 mL/L.
It's hard to work in small amounts like that, so you should dilute it to make it easier to work with.
Shed's better at nailing that stuff down, and he actually enjoys it. He can probably tell you what to mix it at to make it easier for you to dispense.

Hope that helps.

If I may offer two cents on this: A drop is, in reality, an actual unit of measure - the smallest most of us can measure if one's syringe is designed to dispense measured actual drops as many are. Usually the ones that come with MSA are. Mine is. I use GrowGenius 40% mono silicic acid. I apply at 4 drops per gallon twice a week in veg only.

I did the math on the GroTek you're using. The low end of the application range is .6 ml per gallon. So here's the math to drops:

.6 ml = .121 tsp = 9.25 drops.

So if you can measure in drops, about 9 drops per gallon is the low end of GroTek's recommended dosage.

If it helps to think of it in those terms. I started thinking in terms of drops when the $40 bottle came and it's smaller than my thumb.