Hubba Hubba! Bubba Hash & The Bright Lights Of Redemption: Amy's Indoor v2.0 With DBHBB

[Amy Gardner]

I’m not sure my reversed light schedule is as good an idea as I thought. Night temps are at mid winter lows this week and I’m struggling to get the temp up for the lights on period. I may have to rethink

And - I’m wondering if the seedlings are getting too much light. I took farside’s note from over at SHed’s that 20000 lux is fine for seedlings. @InTheShed What lux do your seedlings get, do you know? These are getting about 17,000.

how my Candida EVOO tastes

Mine has a particularly lovely flavour actually!

a building project! Even a slow one .

I’m hoping it will be more of a find the right piece of wood in the shed, mark it out and get someone else to drill 2 holes and then hang it using lighting hangers, almost a no-build build .

 

[InTheShed]

What lux do your seedlings get, do you know? These are getting about 17,000.

I try to get mine outside as soon as they break ground, but if the RQS website said 20,000 then I'm sure 17 is fine. I can check my CFL at home and see what the clones sit under when before they root. I'll report back.

Mine has a particularly lovely flavour actually!

But you eat veggies!

almost a no-build build.

I'm okay with that too .

 

[StoneOtter]

We're cold like that here too. This year I tried a heat mat and it worked very well and only 18 watts. If you go with one get a controller for it as the temp will get to 43.3C and stay there. I thought that was too warm. Got mine on the bay used.

 

[Archiweedies]

I just wanted to point out

Good point, thanks Shed!

Delighted to hear people are getting benefit from the spreadsheet. The motivation came from the Holy Grail thread.

Between run 1 and 2 I don’t do anything. After run 2, I’ll let it gravity drain overnight.

If I wasn’t using the mash I would do a big squeeze.

Thanks OB

Just get this small pot aspect of the growing sorted

Are you only going to try coco in a small pot or the kit as well? I’m interested to watch either way, as usual!

No cannabinoids left behind.

As a former Marine I concur with this message!

If I am consistent in my oil making with these buds

That’s an “if” that ultimately has to be considered. It is seemingly at the core of OldBears efficiency calculations to begin with. Unless we get into hyper-controlling all the variables.

medicalese

I’d rather deal with people

Sometimes I’d rather not

But you eat veggies!

Haha!

We're cold like that here too. This year I tried a heat mat and it worked very well and only 18 watts. If you go with one get a controller for it as the temp will get to 43.3C and stay there. I thought that was too warm. Got mine on the bay used.

Good call SO
Any, some of my neighbors in the great white north have recommended heated mats instead of space heaters or if you need more heat than the germination mats can provide. The controller Stone mentions is a valuable tool not only for keeping the root zone warm, but it changes your cloning and seed germinating game cause it’s easy to keep the soil 75-78F.

 

[Amy Gardner]

heat mat

Yeah this is exactly what i’m Thinking. I actually have a small one in there now, and have the pots raised above it a bit. I worry that the rotzone would get too warm. But others have used heatmats to some success as well, so I’ll look into one with a thermostat thanks otter!

but if the RQS website said 20,000 then I'm sure 17 is fine.

Well this is the thing. The RQS website only says 5,000-7,000 for clones and seedlings. Farside claimed otherwise for the seedlings (but said all the other values in the RQS article were good). It makes sense that clones can only handle super low light, but a seedling doesn’t need to be coddled in the same way, so what Farside said was saying made sense to me, and his plants are fine . I know plenty of folk who sprout seeds right there in the veg tent, just down low, so... Aaaanyywhooo - I am currently feeling like they have stalled, maybe I imagine it. 5 days and they’re definitley bigger but the second set of serrated leaves hasn’t emerged yet - although I can see the nubs of them. I’m going to have to go back and look at old pics of seedlings and try to get a measure...

Are you only going to try coco in a small pot or the kit as well? I’m interested to watch either way, as usual!

Bit of both Not for the purposes of comparison or anything, merely experimentation to see what suits me.

Sometimes I’d rather not

I had to go back and see what I’d said that about. In my past life I was definitely in the ‘not’ basket. Ive been so isolated the last 2.5 years that nowadays I crave it sometimes. Especially to have a conversation about grow eqipment without having to type - my fingers aren’t so happy wit all the typing (the dictation function is partially useful - I mix it up a bit). Funny how things change tho, and how adaptable the psyche is - often adapting to our circumstances in ways were not really conscious of.

controller Stone mentions is a valuable tool not only for keeping the root zone warm, but it changes your cloning and seed germinating game cause it’s easy to keep the soil 75-78F.

APart from that cloning/germination temperature, what temp do you try to keep your rootzone at during the grow?

 

[Archiweedies]

what temp do you try to keep your rootzone at during the grow?

That’s just it, I shift my focus to canopy temperature once they are well established young plants. They are so picky when cloning and germinating.

I agree with the notion that seedlings can accept any amount of light you can throw at them from day one. I sent my one day old seedlings outside in the California sun as Shed and others suggested and they never blinked. I think it was Beez who said he noticed the longer you wait to harden them off, the longer they take to adjust.

Clones will root right in your veg tent, but they’ll take longer if they’re under intense light.

 

[Amy Gardner]

Yeah - I have always sprouted seeds right under the sun.
And even though I don’t feel a natural fit for indoor growing, either way I have 100% germination record. I get antsy indoors in between germ and the

well established young plants

stages... so am worried about rootzone temp right now. Don’t want to cook em trying to raise the general temp!

I don’t lean naturally to the indoor thing yet... still figuring it out

 

[Pennywise]

I think most of us are trying to perfect it.

 

[Archiweedies]

Yeah - I have always sprouted seeds right under the sun.
And even though I don’t feel a natural fit for indoor growing, either way I have 100% germination record. I get antsy indoors in between germ and the

stages... so am worried about rootzone temp right now. Don’t want to cook em trying to raise the general temp!

I don’t lean naturally to the indoor thing yet... still figuring it out

If you have a humidity dome, I’ve had good luck heating the water in the bottom of the tray and keeping the top vents open with your temp probe slipped inside right next to the leaves of your plant. One gallon pots won’t fit under there though.
Someone suggested taping the probe to the heat mat. That’s actually the best idea here I think.
Otherwise, you could keep a moist towel on top of the heat mat between the container to keep it from getting too warm. If you don’t have a thermostat, that is.

 

[Amy Gardner]

How warm is too warm for the rootzone?

I wonder actually if venting out the bottom of the tent means that any heat from a heated mat will be getting drawn downwards and towards the extraction filter so, away from the plants. That would make it a big waste of money. I suppose if it’s ion the floor it’s still reducing the cold pit at the very bottom. For now I’m just going to crank the main-room heater, maybe even light the small fireplace at times during these midwinter cold nights were into now.

The reversed light cycle survives - it’s definitely going to be the best setup for once flowering is happening, I must remember that!

 

[Oldbear]

THis a cut and paste I found. >>>


There are many aspects of crop and plant production that are critical for the success of the effort. One of the most often overlooked and seldom allow ed for aspects of production centers around the temperature of the root zone. After all, it is out of sight and there is not much that can be done about it. Besides, it must be OK to hold the entire plant at the same temperature, right? Wrong; and here is why.
By Geary Coogler, BSc Horticulture

The temperature story
To begin, there are two main parts of a plant, the roots and the shoots, and one main intersection known as the crown. While composed of similar material, components, and engineering, the roles of the roots and shoots is, basically, opposite. The crown serves as the switching center that facilitates the change in function. The chemistry fundamentals are universal. While our focus here is in the root zone, the other two parts are affected as well.

The basic purpose of a root is to take in water and those elements the plant needs to function that are available in the root zone. Other purposes include anchorage/ support and storage, which may be more important functions than uptake in some plants. Roots take in water and some nutrients through the basic process of osmosis where water moves across a membrane into the cells of the plant because of differences in their respective ion concentrations. Most elements other than water are most often actively pumped into the plant cells requiring energy.

The part of the plant above the surface is called ‘shoot’ and is able to regulate its temperature through transpiration. The temperature range in the shoot can therefore be larger and it can change faster. The part of the plant below the surface is called root zone and is not able to regulate its temperature at all. The temperature range is therefore smaller and the roots need to stay cooler.

Root protective systems
The root has to guard itself against too much of some things coming in and against the loss of what is inside. To do so, it has evolved protections, barriers, and infrastructure that match the need. The root does not harvest the power of light being, in fact, a large consumer of those components and energy derived from the sun.

In doing so it must respire, take in oxygen (O2), and use it to reduce the carbohydrates made in the photosynthesis process in other areas of the plant, to release the energy for use in its processes.

It has no requirement for carbon dioxide (CO2). Roots or shoots, chemical reactions inside the cells of the plant tissue give off heat. They also require a certain level of temperature to start and continue; when these temperatures get too high, the reactions go haywire. Roots take in water and they do their best not to give it up and as such do not transpire to cool the tissue but instead transfer the excess heat generated in these reactions (latent heat) to the surrounding medium. Dense mediums such as soil, sand, even water, have a large temperature buffer that make the 24 hour swing in temperatures a root will see very minimal under natural conditions.

Energy and carbohydrates
The basic purpose of the top is to produce energy from the sun and fruiting structures to pass on its genes. In the process, it provides energy products and complex building blocks known as carbohydrates to the root system so that it can continue to function and develop to match the demands of the top. The tissues are designed to allow water and elements to move as quickly as possible through the tissue of the plant to each and every cell of the plant.

Complex systems, (transpiration) simple in the basic idea and wonderfully complex in design, evolved to move raw materials and finished products, provide a ridged support to the structure of the tissue, and facilitate the collection of solar energy and the conversion of simple elements into complex organic molecules. Chemical reactions required for cell metabolism and function are the same top or bottom.

When the lights go on, the air temperature rises and as a result the soil temperature will rise too. It takes a while before the soil warms up (just as it will cool down slowly after the lights are turned off). But it’s not only the air that influences the soils temperature. The material, depth (volume) and moisture level also changes its ability to give off or retain heat.

Chemical reactions
Other reactions specific to the conversion of light energy to chemical energy also occur and a portion of the cells in the shoot of the plant are like chemical factories that produce more when reactions run faster. The temperature issues remain the same as in the roots; these chemical reactions will go haywire as temperature increases or slows as it decreases. When coupled with the extra incoming heat from the light energy, it becomes critical that the tissue has a system that can control this heat while transferring this to the air, a medium that is much more subject to bigger changes than a denser medium such as soil.

These top tissues use oxygen as well at more or less constant values night or day, and they take in carbon dioxide during the light period to convert to the basic blocks of life, carbohydrates. All this the top must do in a temperature range that is subject to much greater fluctuation in a 24 hour period, sometimes 10 degrees or more Celsius that will occur rapidly.

This is a scanning electron micrograph (SEM)
of a section through a rootlet taken from
a flowering plant. The vascular bundle consists
of xylem (four green circles, centre) and
phloem tissue (blue). The xylem transports
water and mineral nutrients from the roots
to the rest of the plant while the phloem
transports carbohydrates and plant hormones.

Crown of the plant
The crown of a plant is the junction of the root tissue and the shoot tissue. In some plants, these crowns are clearly defined and ridged in location, and in others they are not so clear and sometimes variable. This location is like a massive telephone switching station that must take the incoming osmotically generated pressurized water/nutrient flow from the root, and feed it into a vacuum system that is pulling the flow up and out by the transpiration sinks (areas of negative pressure) generated in the leaf tissues, effectively changing the physics of the flow.

The chemical reactions are busy, the temperatures vary, there is a change in the systems involved for temperature control, and oxygen is used in very high levels. A crown exists at the interface of the medium and the air, and to go too far into one or the other (planting too high or too deep) causes problems.

Maintaining temperature
Now, the temperature in the shoot zone, or top zone, has to be right for the reactions to occur. The top itself can slow transpiration or increase it as needed to maintain a temperature in the production tissues.

As the lights go on, temps are low and so is the need for cooling. As the day wears on, energy increases and temperature in the air and tissues as well, so does transpiration, which then reverses as the day comes to an end. These temperatures, for example, can start at around 65oF and end up at 85oF before falling back, a 20 degree difference over half a day. In the root zone, these temps may vary from 65oF to 66oF, a 1 degree difference, but the roots must be functional enough in their constant range of conditions to provide everything the top needs, and then does not need, as it goes through a rapid daily change.

Using this knowledge
Plants took millions of years to evolve to the conditions in which they had to survive and propagate under unmanipulated conditions in nature. Soil temperature and characteristics change with latitude and composition. Plants evolved in specific locations to handle the needs they faced in their drive to procreate. Soil, natural or artificial, changes its ability to give up or retain heat based on material, depth (volume) and moisture level. Very porous material fluctuates rapidly, the same as dry material. Fluctuation decreases as the material becomes denser or contains more moisture, and this is increasingly the case the deeper in the soil profile it goes. Still, the medium is slower to fluctuate, under all these conditions, than the air.

If this medium is confined to a bucket, raised bed, or other container, then these fluctuations become more rapid and intense and develop a temperature profile more like air. This medium loses its ability to serve as a temperature control for the root under these conditions resulting in an under-performing root system with a large demand from the top unfulfilled. Shallow rooted plants work with bigger temperature changes closer to average day/night air temperatures, whereas deeper rooted plants deal with smaller fluctuations and cooler temperatures than this average.

The plant root does not regulate its own temperature, and once temperature in the medium goes outside the perfect zone for reactions to occur, can no longer supply the rest of the plant with ideal levels of materials. This is true high or low. The greater the fluctuation in temperatures in a 24 hour period, the more stressed the root system becomes. The more stressed a root system is the more problems a plant will have both physically and pathologically, and will become increasingly susceptible to pathogens and insects. The placing of any root system in a medium above ground increases the surface area from which heat can be gained or lost.

Plants will shut down (go dormant) when the root system stops most of its function, whether this is a result of cool conditions or hot conditions. This is true in container plant nurseries located in warm, sunny areas. In the summer, the containers heat up from the air and the plants go into a second dormancy even though they are watered and fed to produce maximum production and growth. Even the temperature of the irrigation water or nutrient solution will increase or decrease root function, and a sudden large temperature change will shock the roots. Good growers will warm or chill the water to be in the correct range before irrigating.

Maximum function in a plant is very dependent on temperature and it is a much more complicated story than laid out here. The root and shoot systems have different sets of needs when it comes to temperature: one can function in a bigger range with warmer and faster changes, and the other in a much smaller, cooler, and stable range. Proper plant production has to take this into account. A slower root system will slow top development for any reason including the ability to properly perform the chemical reactions required by slowing the uptake of nutrients. Not just all nutrients but some faster than others which can show as individual deficiencies.

Root development and function is best when kept in a range specific to the plant and a good grower will monitor and change these as closely as the grower will monitor and control the air temperature. Everything in a plant is interrelated; even a nutrient issue can develop in a properly fed plant where root zone temperatures are outside of the range. In the end, there are two different and entirely separate environments a plant lives in, and a good grower will pay close attention to both.

 

[Oldbear]

Interesting point that it is the amount of a temperature change within 24 hours that causes plant stress.

Also its clear that outdoor plants in containers, especially black ones, are very vulnerable to problems cause by root zone temps.

 

[Heavenly Hybrid]

THis a cut and paste I found. >>>


There are many aspects of crop and plant production that are critical for the success of the effort. One of the most often overlooked and seldom allow ed for aspects of production centers around the temperature of the root zone. After all, it is out of sight and there is not much that can be done about it. Besides, it must be OK to hold the entire plant at the same temperature, right? Wrong; and here is why.
By Geary Coogler, BSc Horticulture

The temperature story
To begin, there are two main parts of a plant, the roots and the shoots, and one main intersection known as the crown. While composed of similar material, components, and engineering, the roles of the roots and shoots is, basically, opposite. The crown serves as the switching center that facilitates the change in function. The chemistry fundamentals are universal. While our focus here is in the root zone, the other two parts are affected as well.

The basic purpose of a root is to take in water and those elements the plant needs to function that are available in the root zone. Other purposes include anchorage/ support and storage, which may be more important functions than uptake in some plants. Roots take in water and some nutrients through the basic process of osmosis where water moves across a membrane into the cells of the plant because of differences in their respective ion concentrations. Most elements other than water are most often actively pumped into the plant cells requiring energy.

The part of the plant above the surface is called ‘shoot’ and is able to regulate its temperature through transpiration. The temperature range in the shoot can therefore be larger and it can change faster. The part of the plant below the surface is called root zone and is not able to regulate its temperature at all. The temperature range is therefore smaller and the roots need to stay cooler.

Root protective systems
The root has to guard itself against too much of some things coming in and against the loss of what is inside. To do so, it has evolved protections, barriers, and infrastructure that match the need. The root does not harvest the power of light being, in fact, a large consumer of those components and energy derived from the sun.

In doing so it must respire, take in oxygen (O2), and use it to reduce the carbohydrates made in the photosynthesis process in other areas of the plant, to release the energy for use in its processes.

It has no requirement for carbon dioxide (CO2). Roots or shoots, chemical reactions inside the cells of the plant tissue give off heat. They also require a certain level of temperature to start and continue; when these temperatures get too high, the reactions go haywire. Roots take in water and they do their best not to give it up and as such do not transpire to cool the tissue but instead transfer the excess heat generated in these reactions (latent heat) to the surrounding medium. Dense mediums such as soil, sand, even water, have a large temperature buffer that make the 24 hour swing in temperatures a root will see very minimal under natural conditions.

Energy and carbohydrates
The basic purpose of the top is to produce energy from the sun and fruiting structures to pass on its genes. In the process, it provides energy products and complex building blocks known as carbohydrates to the root system so that it can continue to function and develop to match the demands of the top. The tissues are designed to allow water and elements to move as quickly as possible through the tissue of the plant to each and every cell of the plant.

Complex systems, (transpiration) simple in the basic idea and wonderfully complex in design, evolved to move raw materials and finished products, provide a ridged support to the structure of the tissue, and facilitate the collection of solar energy and the conversion of simple elements into complex organic molecules. Chemical reactions required for cell metabolism and function are the same top or bottom.

When the lights go on, the air temperature rises and as a result the soil temperature will rise too. It takes a while before the soil warms up (just as it will cool down slowly after the lights are turned off). But it’s not only the air that influences the soils temperature. The material, depth (volume) and moisture level also changes its ability to give off or retain heat.

Chemical reactions
Other reactions specific to the conversion of light energy to chemical energy also occur and a portion of the cells in the shoot of the plant are like chemical factories that produce more when reactions run faster. The temperature issues remain the same as in the roots; these chemical reactions will go haywire as temperature increases or slows as it decreases. When coupled with the extra incoming heat from the light energy, it becomes critical that the tissue has a system that can control this heat while transferring this to the air, a medium that is much more subject to bigger changes than a denser medium such as soil.

These top tissues use oxygen as well at more or less constant values night or day, and they take in carbon dioxide during the light period to convert to the basic blocks of life, carbohydrates. All this the top must do in a temperature range that is subject to much greater fluctuation in a 24 hour period, sometimes 10 degrees or more Celsius that will occur rapidly.

This is a scanning electron micrograph (SEM)
of a section through a rootlet taken from
a flowering plant. The vascular bundle consists
of xylem (four green circles, centre) and
phloem tissue (blue). The xylem transports
water and mineral nutrients from the roots
to the rest of the plant while the phloem
transports carbohydrates and plant hormones.

Crown of the plant
The crown of a plant is the junction of the root tissue and the shoot tissue. In some plants, these crowns are clearly defined and ridged in location, and in others they are not so clear and sometimes variable. This location is like a massive telephone switching station that must take the incoming osmotically generated pressurized water/nutrient flow from the root, and feed it into a vacuum system that is pulling the flow up and out by the transpiration sinks (areas of negative pressure) generated in the leaf tissues, effectively changing the physics of the flow.

The chemical reactions are busy, the temperatures vary, there is a change in the systems involved for temperature control, and oxygen is used in very high levels. A crown exists at the interface of the medium and the air, and to go too far into one or the other (planting too high or too deep) causes problems.

Maintaining temperature
Now, the temperature in the shoot zone, or top zone, has to be right for the reactions to occur. The top itself can slow transpiration or increase it as needed to maintain a temperature in the production tissues.

As the lights go on, temps are low and so is the need for cooling. As the day wears on, energy increases and temperature in the air and tissues as well, so does transpiration, which then reverses as the day comes to an end. These temperatures, for example, can start at around 65oF and end up at 85oF before falling back, a 20 degree difference over half a day. In the root zone, these temps may vary from 65oF to 66oF, a 1 degree difference, but the roots must be functional enough in their constant range of conditions to provide everything the top needs, and then does not need, as it goes through a rapid daily change.

Using this knowledge
Plants took millions of years to evolve to the conditions in which they had to survive and propagate under unmanipulated conditions in nature. Soil temperature and characteristics change with latitude and composition. Plants evolved in specific locations to handle the needs they faced in their drive to procreate. Soil, natural or artificial, changes its ability to give up or retain heat based on material, depth (volume) and moisture level. Very porous material fluctuates rapidly, the same as dry material. Fluctuation decreases as the material becomes denser or contains more moisture, and this is increasingly the case the deeper in the soil profile it goes. Still, the medium is slower to fluctuate, under all these conditions, than the air.

If this medium is confined to a bucket, raised bed, or other container, then these fluctuations become more rapid and intense and develop a temperature profile more like air. This medium loses its ability to serve as a temperature control for the root under these conditions resulting in an under-performing root system with a large demand from the top unfulfilled. Shallow rooted plants work with bigger temperature changes closer to average day/night air temperatures, whereas deeper rooted plants deal with smaller fluctuations and cooler temperatures than this average.

The plant root does not regulate its own temperature, and once temperature in the medium goes outside the perfect zone for reactions to occur, can no longer supply the rest of the plant with ideal levels of materials. This is true high or low. The greater the fluctuation in temperatures in a 24 hour period, the more stressed the root system becomes. The more stressed a root system is the more problems a plant will have both physically and pathologically, and will become increasingly susceptible to pathogens and insects. The placing of any root system in a medium above ground increases the surface area from which heat can be gained or lost.

Plants will shut down (go dormant) when the root system stops most of its function, whether this is a result of cool conditions or hot conditions. This is true in container plant nurseries located in warm, sunny areas. In the summer, the containers heat up from the air and the plants go into a second dormancy even though they are watered and fed to produce maximum production and growth. Even the temperature of the irrigation water or nutrient solution will increase or decrease root function, and a sudden large temperature change will shock the roots. Good growers will warm or chill the water to be in the correct range before irrigating.

Maximum function in a plant is very dependent on temperature and it is a much more complicated story than laid out here. The root and shoot systems have different sets of needs when it comes to temperature: one can function in a bigger range with warmer and faster changes, and the other in a much smaller, cooler, and stable range. Proper plant production has to take this into account. A slower root system will slow top development for any reason including the ability to properly perform the chemical reactions required by slowing the uptake of nutrients. Not just all nutrients but some faster than others which can show as individual deficiencies.

Root development and function is best when kept in a range specific to the plant and a good grower will monitor and change these as closely as the grower will monitor and control the air temperature. Everything in a plant is interrelated; even a nutrient issue can develop in a properly fed plant where root zone temperatures are outside of the range. In the end, there are two different and entirely separate environments a plant lives in, and a good grower will pay close attention to both.

Saved!! Thanks for this great info!

 

[Archiweedies]

Great info thanks OB

 

[Heavenly Hybrid]

Don’t forget, for your heat issues, you can always run the lights longer. I’ve been running mine 20/4 in veg lately. I did 24/0 for a while, but I do prefer to give them some sleep time of I can.

 

[Amy Gardner]

a cut and paste I found. >>>

Interesting point that it is the amount of a temperature change within 24 hours that causes plant stress.

This would be part of why DB’s recommendation (and part of the HBB kit instructions really) is to keep temps within a 10ºF range.

I’ve decided against trying to use a heat mat for heat and will just crank the in-room heat harder during lights-on. I did that last night and it was all good

outdoor plants in containers, especially black ones, are very vulnerable to problems cause by root zone temps.

Absolutely - I had hessian bags tied around mine to keep them out of the direct sun. That seemed to work well.

run the lights longer

I know folks do this, but I am pretty set on the 16/8 light cycle for veg. I don’t have serious heat issues. Have just been canvassing ways of raising the tent a few degrees during lights on.

—————-

I adjusted the light a bit before I went to sleep last night and am pretty sure I’ve nailed the light height and intensity. When I woke up the Bubba Hash in particular was praying hard towards the light. It only has 2 big leaves to do that with so, pretty impressive. They’re still getting about 17500 lux but from a slightly higher distance. I’ll endeavour to get some pics of the little ones tonight.

 

[Slowpuffer]

Do you have a small space heater ?

 

[Amy Gardner]

Do you have a small space heater ?

Thanks puffer! And welcome to my second indoor grow adventure

I dont ahve a space heater, someone else suggested that too. It’s ok - I can’t add that much power to the draw anyway.

There is a mini split in the room the tent is in. I’ll just be running that higher than I thought. Sorted

 

[Archiweedies]

That Bubba Hash is working overtime on building roots .

 

[Bud]

Morning Amy, if I understand correctly your plants are to cold with lights off? I have found that a oil filled thermostatic heater on a timer (no light) keeps temp where u set it, during lights out.