SIP Club - Getting Hydro/Coco Results In A Soil Based Medium

[Azimuth]

I am finding that a fully filled sip reservoir, which means wet soil, is not exactly conducive to great seedling growth.

This seems consistently true, and for me it's also true for newly rooted clones. In my smaller containers at least they spend the first couple of weeks trying to stabilize from the much wetter soil than they are used to. It could be that the smaller containers have a higher "Perched Water Table" which is common in normally watered pots.

I am convinced that starting the plants in smaller containers such as Solo cups and then transplanting into the sip is the best way to go. I am conducting a test in my grow room at this very moment to prove that.

I have a well rooted, older clone I'll be potting up tonight that does have the more mature root growth than I typically used and I'm looking forward to seeing if I get a faster transition than my typical 2-3 weeks.

I think finding the best ways to start plants in these things will be quite helpful and we may find different rules for direct seeding, newly rooted clones/seedling, and well established seedlings/clones. And it may have something to do with the size of pots being used.

I'm looking forward to your test results.

 

[ReservoirDog]

Edit: for clarity and some further instructions.

Add pre-dampened/moistened soil with 40% perlite to bucket. (if dust-fart dry some mixes can become hydrophobic and absorb moisture unevenly). Do not create layers of perlite or other additives. No manures other than worm castings, unless amounts are less than 1 cup in total. Limit compost to 1 cup/gallon. With manures you are likely to create a nitrogen soup in the reservoir attractive to death-dealing microbes. Compost holds a great deal of moisture, but SIPs self-water so this retentive quality is not needed and we are more concerned with not holding too much moisture. That is why 40% perlite is critical. Strictly moderate your compost. Hard, I know.

24 hours before transplanting small seedling or planting germ'd seed FIll reservoir to allow the grow matrix (soil, or peat/perlite pre-mixes like ProMix, Sunshine Mix #4) to absorb water. After 24 hr even if top 1/2 inch is dry you will see moisture below that and that is all you need or want. The idea is for there to be only 1/2 full reservoir or less remaining after 24hrs of absorption.

After 24 hours confirm system has absorbed half or more than half of the approx one gallon of water the reservoir holds. If reservoir is over half full after 24 hrs simply wait for evaporation to take place over a few day before planting. You do not want to plant with reservoir over half full after initial absorption.

After minimum 24hours absorption and confirmation that reservoir is half to 1/3 full then proceeded with planting. I, and Octopot whose manual I am paraphrasing, do not recommend starting seedlings or seeds in a system that has reservoir over half full.

Why? Because advantage of the system is that plants can revert to their natural root building 'scheme' in a container with a moisture gradient. Normal container growing cannot recreate a moisture gradient, thus its inferiority compared to proper SIP growing. But it dependent on grower to appreciate this requirement and understand some basics. Such as: When reservoir is full a gradient still exists, however, the difference in moisture level between top and bottom is less so than when the reservoir is less full. Germ'd seeds and seedlings require the extra "hint" that best conditions lie below, deep below, and will expedite a taproot to go deep when the gradient is obvious. Maintain these levels for two weeks.

The above information should answer your questions about top watering frequency because there's nothing you can do that destroys the moisture gradient and the plant's ability to perceive its existence more than top watering. Common sense. You have a "self watering' pot with a reservoir. Never water your plant any other way unless it is fully mature and even then you need a good excuse, like the need for a certain input, s special fertilizer or some such. My SIPs are totally dry in first 1-3 cm, this is normal and good. Mulch if it scares you but it won't hurt plant and will reduce fungi/mold/bug threats. It's not about the roots "hitting the reservoir" like DWC, they are getting oxygen and food/water in the soil matrix if its well aerated (40% perlite) and you have overflow hole drilled. It's about 'hydrotropism" and the huge efficiencies that delivers over the plants in traditional container gardening because SIP plant is in a comparatively steady-state, and not bouncing back and forth between the compromised states of soaking wet, and almost dry. Time-lapse comparisons confirm this. SIPs grow steadily, constantly. Traditional containers grow right after watering, then pause through the dry-out we must impose in that system to wait for water to come again.

Yes, when you transplants a seedling, or a germinated or un germinated seed you need to water it in with less than a pint/liter of water to close any air gaps immediately around the plant/seed, but that is all. If you top water again, esp. in the next 2-3 weeks, you will significantly slow development. You do not need to top water, ever nor should you unless you are applying a special input that you'd rather not have in the reservoir.

Also, if you are creating a seedling for transplant, plant it before 5th node, after 2nd node is fine. Also, even before its in a SIP, bottom water your seedling while it's developing to kickstart its "moisture gradient" muscle memory.

Lastly, transplants of mature plants from a container over 3 gallons are not recommended. No advantage will accrue as the plant is unlikely to any longer be able to access its genetic memory of moisture gradient-steered hydrotropism at such an advanced state of root development. It seems pot size is key here, however, so plants originally in pots smaller than 3 gal may still be successfully transplanted and will, after an adaption period, show intense growth. This is by no means preferable, however, to planting small seedlings or germed seeds as the adaption period of any mature plant can become painfully extended or even unending in rare cases.

Otherwise intelligent growers will argue some points above about planting germ'd seeds or seedlings, but, they're usually not experienced SIP growers and, again, this information I'm giving you is from a successful SIP-only company, developed by horticulture/agriculture PHds, following proven scientific principals that have practically proven themselves during product development and later customer use to work and be superior to other approaches. Octopot, in my humble estimation, is probably the best off-the-shelf grow system in the world, bar none, given what you must put in compared to what you get out. However, you can rest assured that these are SIP-specific principles, not merely Octopot-only rules. Do yourself a huge favour and go here to download their user guide. A great majority of the issues and questions you might have are addressed. Reference it constantly, it will not steer you wrong.

I personally plant 2-3 node seedlings into SIP as my preference but I am sure to bottom water these plants, very sparingly, from the first days after germination so they've already experienced a bottom-heavy moisture gradient before going in the SIP. If you grow seedling in normal container that's been top watered your seedling will be at a distinct disadvantage when transplanted, in particular the longer you wait.

Best of luck to you, feel free to PM me for discussion if you wish.

 

[Krissi Carbone]

Add pre-dampened/moistened soil with 40% perlite to bucket.

24 hours before transplanting small seedling or planting germ'd seed FIll reservoir to allow matric to absorb water. Even if top inch is dry you will see moisture below that and that is all you need or want.

24 hours after the first 24 hours, confirm system has absorbed half or more than half of the approx gallon of water the reservoir holds while it was absorbing into bucket. If it has, plant seed, if it hasn'teither wait a few days for some normal evaporation or figure out a way to remove some water, but I, and Octopot whose manual I am paraphrasing, do not recommend starting seedlings or seeds in a system that has reservoir over half full.

Why? Because advantage of the system is that plants can revert to their natural root building 'scheme' in a container with a moisture gradient. Normal container growing cannot recreate a moisture gradient, thus its inferiority compared to proper SIP growing. But it dependent on grower to appreciate this requirement and understand some basics. Such as: When reservoir is full a gradient still exists, however, the difference in moisture level between top and bottom is less so than when the reservoir is less full. Germ'd seeds and seedlings require the extra "hint" that best conditions lie below, deep below, and will expedite a taproot to go deep when the gradient is obvious. Maintain these levels for two weeks.

The above information should answer your questions about top watering frequency because there's nothing you can do that destroys the moisture gradient and the plant's ability to perceive its existence than top watering. Common sense. You have a "self watering' pot with a reservoir. Never water your plant any other way unless it is fully mature and even then you need a good excuse, like the need for a certain input, s special fertilizer or some such. My SIPs are totally dry in first 1-3 cm, this is normal and good. Mulch if it scares you but it won't hurt plant and will reduce fungi/mold/bug threats. It's not about the roots "hitting the reservoir" like DWC, they are getting oxygen and food/water in the soil matrix if its well aerated (40% perlite) and you have overflow hole drilled. It's about 'hydrotropism" and the huge efficiencies that delivers the plant of traditional container gardening when plant is in a steady-state, and not bouncing back and forth between the compromised states of soaking wet, and almost dry. Time lapse comparisons confirm this. SIPs grow steadily, constantly. Traditional containers grow right after watering, then pause through the dry-out we must impose in that system to wait for water to come again.

Yes, when you transplants a seedling, or a germinated or un germinated seed you need to water it in with less than a pint/liter of water to close any air gaps immediately around the plant/seed, but that is all. If you top water again, esp. in the next 2-3 weeks, you will significantly slow development. You do not need to top water, ever nor should you unless you are applying a special input that you'd rather not have in the reservoir.

Also, if you are creating a seedling for transplant, plant it before 5th node, after 2nd node is fine. Also, even before its in a SIP, bottom water your seedling while it's developing to kickstart its "moisture gradient" muscle memory.

Lastly, transplants of mature plants from a container over 3 gallons are not recommended. No advantage will accrue as the plant is unlikely to any longer be able to access its genetic memory of moisture gradient-steered hydrotropism at such an advanced state of root development. It seems pot size is key here, however, so plants originally in pots smaller than 3 gal may still be successfully transplanted and will, after an adaption period, show intense growth. This is by no means preferable, however, to planting small seedlings or germed seeds as the adaption period of any mature plant can become painfully extended or even unending in rare cases.

Otherwise intelligent growers will argue some points above about planting germ'd seeds or seedlings, but, they're usually not experienced SIP growers and, again, this information I'm giving you is from a successful SIP-only company, developed by horticulture/agriculture PHds, following proven scientific principals that have practically proven themselves during product development and later customer use to work and be superior to other approaches. Octopot, in my humble estimation, is probably the best off-the-shelf grow system in the world, bar none, given what you must put in compared to what you get out. However, you can rest assured that these are SIP-specific principles, not merely Octopot-only rules. Do yourself a huge favour and go here to download their user guide. A great majority of the issues and questions you might have are addressed. Reference it constantly, it will not steer you wrong.

I personally plant 2-3 node seedlings into SIP as my preference but I am sure to bottom water these plants, very sparingly, from the first days after germination so they've already experienced a bottom-heavy moisture gradient before going in the SIP. If you grow seedling in normal container that's been top watered your seedling will be at a distinct disadvantage when transplanted, in particular the longer you wait.

Best of luck to you, feel free to PM me for discussion if you wish.

 

[InTheShed]

Edit: for clarity and some further instructions.

Add pre-dampened/moistened soil with 40% perlite to bucket. (if dust-fart dry some mixes can become hydrophobic and absorb moisture unevenly). Do not create layers of perlite or other additives. No manures other than worm castings, unless amounts are less than 1 cup in total. Limit compost to 1 cup/gallon. With manures you are likely to create a nitrogen soup in the reservoir attractive to death-dealing microbes. Compost holds a great deal of moisture, but SIPs self-water so this retentive quality is not needed and we are more concerned with not holding too much moisture. That is why 40% perlite is critical. Strictly moderate your compost. Hard, I know.

24 hours before transplanting small seedling or planting germ'd seed FIll reservoir to allow the grow matrix (soil, or peat/perlite pre-mixes like ProMix, Sunshine Mix #4) to absorb water. After 24 hr even if top 1/2 inch is dry you will see moisture below that and that is all you need or want. The idea is for there to be only 1/2 full reservoir or less remaining after 24hrs of absorption.

After 24 hours confirm system has absorbed half or more than half of the approx one gallon of water the reservoir holds. If reservoir is over half full after 24 hrs simply wait for evaporation to take place over a few day before planting. You do not want to plant with reservoir over half full after initial absorption.

After minimum 24hours absorption and confirmation that reservoir is half to 1/3 full then proceeded with planting. I, and Octopot whose manual I am paraphrasing, do not recommend starting seedlings or seeds in a system that has reservoir over half full.

Why? Because advantage of the system is that plants can revert to their natural root building 'scheme' in a container with a moisture gradient. Normal container growing cannot recreate a moisture gradient, thus its inferiority compared to proper SIP growing. But it dependent on grower to appreciate this requirement and understand some basics. Such as: When reservoir is full a gradient still exists, however, the difference in moisture level between top and bottom is less so than when the reservoir is less full. Germ'd seeds and seedlings require the extra "hint" that best conditions lie below, deep below, and will expedite a taproot to go deep when the gradient is obvious. Maintain these levels for two weeks.

The above information should answer your questions about top watering frequency because there's nothing you can do that destroys the moisture gradient and the plant's ability to perceive its existence more than top watering. Common sense. You have a "self watering' pot with a reservoir. Never water your plant any other way unless it is fully mature and even then you need a good excuse, like the need for a certain input, s special fertilizer or some such. My SIPs are totally dry in first 1-3 cm, this is normal and good. Mulch if it scares you but it won't hurt plant and will reduce fungi/mold/bug threats. It's not about the roots "hitting the reservoir" like DWC, they are getting oxygen and food/water in the soil matrix if its well aerated (40% perlite) and you have overflow hole drilled. It's about 'hydrotropism" and the huge efficiencies that delivers over the plants in traditional container gardening because SIP plant is in a comparatively steady-state, and not bouncing back and forth between the compromised states of soaking wet, and almost dry. Time-lapse comparisons confirm this. SIPs grow steadily, constantly. Traditional containers grow right after watering, then pause through the dry-out we must impose in that system to wait for water to come again.

Yes, when you transplants a seedling, or a germinated or un germinated seed you need to water it in with less than a pint/liter of water to close any air gaps immediately around the plant/seed, but that is all. If you top water again, esp. in the next 2-3 weeks, you will significantly slow development. You do not need to top water, ever nor should you unless you are applying a special input that you'd rather not have in the reservoir.

Also, if you are creating a seedling for transplant, plant it before 5th node, after 2nd node is fine. Also, even before its in a SIP, bottom water your seedling while it's developing to kickstart its "moisture gradient" muscle memory.

Lastly, transplants of mature plants from a container over 3 gallons are not recommended. No advantage will accrue as the plant is unlikely to any longer be able to access its genetic memory of moisture gradient-steered hydrotropism at such an advanced state of root development. It seems pot size is key here, however, so plants originally in pots smaller than 3 gal may still be successfully transplanted and will, after an adaption period, show intense growth. This is by no means preferable, however, to planting small seedlings or germed seeds as the adaption period of any mature plant can become painfully extended or even unending in rare cases.

Otherwise intelligent growers will argue some points above about planting germ'd seeds or seedlings, but, they're usually not experienced SIP growers and, again, this information I'm giving you is from a successful SIP-only company, developed by horticulture/agriculture PHds, following proven scientific principals that have practically proven themselves during product development and later customer use to work and be superior to other approaches. Octopot, in my humble estimation, is probably the best off-the-shelf grow system in the world, bar none, given what you must put in compared to what you get out. However, you can rest assured that these are SIP-specific principles, not merely Octopot-only rules. Do yourself a huge favour and go here to download their user guide. A great majority of the issues and questions you might have are addressed. Reference it constantly, it will not steer you wrong.

I personally plant 2-3 node seedlings into SIP as my preference but I am sure to bottom water these plants, very sparingly, from the first days after germination so they've already experienced a bottom-heavy moisture gradient before going in the SIP. If you grow seedling in normal container that's been top watered your seedling will be at a distinct disadvantage when transplanted, in particular the longer you wait.

Best of luck to you, feel free to PM me for discussion if you wish.

Bookmarked, thanks RD!

 

[scottreid1966]

Depending on how long you plan to veg those little beauties, things could get a little tight in there. Ask @Buds Buddy about that.


Excellent. Another variation on the theme. These buckets seem to grow great plants no matter the media or the nutes. Looking forward to it.


True Dat!

Do I remember correctly that you were thinking about giving SIPs a go?


Thanks, Stunger. I've never heard anyone disappointed with a move to SIPs and I suspect we're going to see some great photos in this thread. Well, some more great photos as we've seen some already.

I will try to modify my next two before I need to up-pot, but been so freakin' busy trimming. Of the first 2 attempts, 1 of them smells a little stagnant. I just put them to flower and the fans leaves were a little brittle.

Thanks for the link, Azi!

 

[CBDMed]

Thanks EG! I have used super soil in the past with some success. That might be the way to go. I’d love to know if @Buds

Thanks EG! That’s good to know. I wonder if @Buds Buddy uses any other nutrients. I love to figure out the right combo. His roots looked amazing!

Hahaha, hey Will11!
You remind me of me when I am stoned, hahaha!..

 

[ReservoirDog]

In recognition of 420 luminary member @farside05 , and with gratitude for bringing us Faux-mix HP and Faux-Tekt, ladies and gentlemen I present to you:

Faux-ctopot!

Yes, it's a joke name based on an existing SIP product, and I curse a lot, so I couldn't resist. However, Mr. Farside05, I hope you find imitation to be the highest form of flattery because only the name is a joke. The respect for you and gratitude for your contributions are very much a real thing.

When I have down-time due to illness, I screw around. I try to make the time as productive as possible slowly working little projects like this. We'll see how this performs, I think I'm actually going to grow in this one.

So, this is a cheap 10-gallon Rubbermaid tote, a number seven nursery pot (approx 7 gallons), a section of four inch perforated drainpipe, three three-inch aero-cloner pucks, and a small section of a reusable drinking straw centred in one of them as a passthrough for my take-out Chinese chopstick flag.

Am uncertain as to whether I add an overflow hole given that with the floaty-flag I can see the water level thus be prevented from overfilling. The reason for indecision is I may drill small holes on sides above water level to facilitate oxygenation, or I may not. Gotta be one, the other, or both because the oxygen is critical.

If you'd care to advise me on any aspect I'm all ears, this is just another prototype, but it holds eight full gallons (and a little bit) while maintaining a 1.25-inch air gap. So that's helpful. A soft pot would work fine, and this is the basic setup I use for my mother plants, but they're in 3 gal softies with no bells or whistles. It supports 3 gal weight no prob, but 7 is another question altogether, I'll likely stand a piece or two of PVC, vertically, under the lid to support the weight. The displacement penalty using PVC or a section of this pipe is almost nil and gives good support. I've run the perf. pipe wicking-foot right up through the bottom of the plastic pot and it has no structural value. It would be wrapped in pantyhose if pressed into service to contain the 'soil' and keep (some) perlite out of the rez.

This is part of an effort to get hands-on with methods of having a separate reservoir for each plant because I currently fertigate with synth. salts and want control over ppm strength for each plant - with as large a reservoir as possible (reasonable). My large 27-gal tub-style SIPs house two plants each, currently in 9-10-gal soft pots, and they must share a six-gallon reservoir. This prototype offers more control, more plant placement flexibility and virtually triples the per plant reservoir size by comparison. It's also a shameless copy of some of the better SIP products out there, sorta.

You could also hook this up to a 40 gal shared reservoir with 5 other planters and do gravity-only feed, losing indiv. control but gaining tremendous convenience. I believe a control bucket would be necc., as I've seen it. In my mind's eye it's similar to what @Sobergrower has built for his awesome PPK (Perfect Plant Killer) setup, but without the top-feed plumbing. Simple, passive... I know, right?

Anyway, FYI, currently I'm in week 5 of flower and each of my 6-gal, two-plant SIPs last 6-7 days per fill. There's a reference photo of my tub setup a page or three behind us - if you want a visual aid.

 

[Will11]

Hahaha, hey Will11!
You remind me of me when I am stoned, hahaha!..

Ha! That damn reply button!

 

[Will11]

I tried using SoHum Super Soil & Recharge on 1 plant. It did fine all through Veg, but about 4 weeks into flower the leaves got pale green & yellow. I was feeding Recharge at 5 gr. per gal. which is what the package says to use to Super Charge your grow. It says every other feeding. Did that to no avail. Tried feeding recharge every feeding for 2 weeks & still didn't help. Ended up feeding them with Mega Crop & now they are getting greener again. Organics is not my thing.
I prefer the simplicity of synthetic nutes by far. However, Geo Flora nutes might change my opinion on things. I'll be trying that on my Auto's in a few days.
@Emilya Green , does Geo Flora work in Coco ? Curious as I was thinking about doing 2 GG Auto's. 1 in FFOF & 1 in Coco for a comparison. LMK. Thanks !

Thanks for the reply Bud! Do you start seedling (autos) in the grobucket or do you transplant?

 

[CBDMed]

Hey RD,
This is like maybe the 3rd or 4th time reading you saying the same things, and I think maybe the light bulb is finally starting to come on.
Thank you.

 

[ReservoirDog]

Hey RD,
This is like maybe the 3rd or 4th time reading you saying the same things, and I think maybe the light bulb is finally starting to come on.
Thank you.

I hope you and yours are safe and well EG. Take care, eh.

 

[Buds Buddy]

I’m not exactly sure. I grew 4 autos… different breeds and breeders. All four stunted. They’re all small. It was my second grow. My first grow I started in 3 gallons fabric pots. They did pretty well. So I’m blaming it on solo cups! Ha! But I actually don’t know if it was that. So many variables with growing.

Hi Will. I'll be starting 2 Auto's this weekend if you want to watch & see how long it takes. I do things a little different though. My very 1st feeding will be before the seed ever gets planted. I'll pour a gallon of feed (1 gr. per gal. MC) through my soil to get it moist. The next day I plant my seed & let it grow. I usually don't need to water at all the first week because the soil stays moist enough. Within 7-10 days at most & the roots are at the res & drinking from it.
I'll post pics when I do it.

 

[Will11]

Hi Will. I'll be starting 2 Auto's this weekend if you want to watch & see how long it takes. I do things a little different though. My very 1st feeding will be before the seed ever gets planted. I'll pour a gallon of feed (1 gr. per gal. MC) through my soil to get it moist. The next day I plant my seed & let it grow. I usually don't need to water at all the first week because the soil stays moist enough. Within 7-10 days at most & the roots are at the res & drinking from it.
I'll post pics when I do it.

Thanks Buds this is super helpful! I would love to follow your grow. I plan on starting 2 autos in grobuckets in the next few days as well…. so it’ll be really helpful to see how you grow. I have a lot to learn!

 

[Buds Buddy]

Thanks for the reply Bud! Do you start seedling (autos) in the grobucket or do you transplant?

I haven't done an Auto in at least 3 years. I'll be doing Auto's this weekend.... straight in the 5 gal. grow bucket.

 

[Will11]

I agree with Em in the smaller pot beginnings, I don't think it had anything to do with the solo cups.

Can I ask when they showed they were stunted and when and what you started feeding them and well, can you just jot down your basic grow environment info and feeding routine?

Maybe we can see where the fault happened since we can count out it being an issue with the banks/seeds since they were all from different origins

Thanks Krissi for asking! I started all four in jiffy’s. About a day after they popped I put them into solos FFOF. I could see the tap root coming out the bottom of the jiffy. They seemed happy enough for the first week. I waited about two weeks and after they started with their first 3 point leaves they didn’t do much else. So i transplanted to see if more room would help. It did for a few days. They grew up past their 4th node. Unlucky for me, they had only been transplanted about 5-6 days and they started to flower. We’ll 2 of them. The other two still haven’t flowered and are growing-stretching… just not impressively so.

 

[Will11]

I haven't done an Auto in at least 3 years. I'll be doing Auto's this weekend.... straight in the 5 gal. grow bucket.

How can I follow? Are you starting a new journal or should I click on one of the links after your name? Thanks Buds! Looking forward to it!

 

[Will11]

From seed it only takes a few days for it to reach the reservoir, and even less to have access to moisture since the soil above the reservoir will wick the moisture upwards. I don't grow much from seed but the last one I did I just watered once I think from the top, and right down the stem to get the tap root following the water. And even that might not be all that necessary unless you are outdoors in the wind.

The buckets are a little different from Em's storage containers and the wicking process is a mirror image. In hers (and ResDog's) the soil sits above a false floor with a connection pipe down into the reservoir, so a single column coming up into the soil above.

In the buckets, the soil drapes around the reservoir and the outside edge roots grow down the bucket sides and fully populate the reservoir level, though they root prune themselves before fully populating the reservoir itself. This may depend on pot size as Buds' roots seem to stop at the top of the reservoir level in his 5 gallon buckets. On my smaller ones they fill the entire container with the small feeder roots.

I just harvested my first 2 gallon bucket so I'll have a look at the roots from that one and see what there is to see,

Thanks Azimuth for the details! My grobuckets should be here by Thursday!
Did you DIY your 2 gallon ones or do they sell them that size? Thanks!

 

[Buds Buddy]

How can I follow? Are you starting a new journal or should I click on one of the links after your name? Thanks Buds! Looking forward to it!

I'll be adding it to this journal "SIP"-pity Do Dah, "SIP"-pity A , but will also post here & there in this one. I'll prep on Friday & plant the seed on Sat.

 

[Buds Buddy]

Thanks Azimuth for the details! My grobuckets should be here by Thursday!
Did you DIY your 2 gallon ones or do they sell them that size? Thanks!

This guy used the 5 gal. inserts with smaller buckets. Oct. 2022 - Auto Grow - 4 Different Strains - AutoPots - Coco

 

[Azimuth]

Did you DIY your 2 gallon ones or do they sell them that size? Thanks!

They were diy. I used the design for the 2G and 5G buckets in This post