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Winter Is Coming! The Quest For The Iron Throne! A High Brix Quadline Breeding Project!

SQl2kGuy

Well-Known Member
High Brix Cannabis

I grow in Doc Bud’s High Brix Blend living organic soil. And after just 1 grow season with it, I doubt I ever change!
When we talk about Brix we are actually talking about a refractometer reading that tells us the amount of dissolved solids within a sample of our plant material. The higher the reading the higher the sugars, mineral levels, specific gravity and true protein levels are in the plant. This adds up to sweeter tasting, more minerally-nutritious produce.

There are 4 foundations to growing High Brix Cannabis. This info comes from Doc Bud’s website.

1. Mineralize the Soil
By now, we all know about how corporate farming and sterile soils have ruined our food supply. We all know that organic, living soil is the way to go for healthy, delicious produce. With High-Brix growing, we not only want living soil with organic ingredients as opposed to chemicals, but we want the maximum amount of life from the soil we can possibly get.

Research has shown that a large amount of calcium in the soil, with the right ratio of calcium-to-magnesium and a relatively low amount of organic matter (less than 8%) will allow the microbial life in the soil to thrive.
Think of volcanic soil, full of minerals. Minerals are where it's at--this is what we're after in High-Brix. Our amendments are designed to bring every mineral into the right ratio in the soil, making the microbes hyperactive and happy. Calcium is king here. No other mineral is as important in the soil as calcium and we've yet to find a commercial potting soil with even close to the optimal amount of calcium in it.
Doc Bud’s High-Brix soil is unlike any other super soil, or potting soil out there. We have WAY MORE calcium than they do. First time kit users are often surprised most by how strong their stems are and how little support they need. Thank calcium for that!

2. Microbiology
Rock-based calciforous and phosphate minerals are great, but often not readily available to the plant's roots without mycorrhiza--the symbiotic, beneficial fungi and bacteria that live in the soil. Good products contain specific microbes that will make our herbaceous plants thrive. As in a state of nature, these microbes should be born and raised eating rocks....not molasses, like most other products lazily include! Sugar won't keep your soil heathy any better than a steady diet of sugar will keep your body healthy. Minerals, on the other hand are what the plants need, and they get them via microbial action, or at least they should.
Proper microbes will be happy to break down rocks and feed the byproducts to the plant, which is why any good fertilizer package should include finely ground rock powder. Under the right conditions, microbes act as an army of micro-cultivators that help make nutrients and minerals available to the plant that would otherwise go undigested. Unlocking these soil components is part of what sets High-Brix produce apart, and why High-Brix gardening is massively fixated on the microbial health of the soil.

3. Major and Minor Elements
We're concerned with balance. We need Nitrogetn (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) as well as Magnesium (Mg), Sulfur (S), Copper (Cu), Iron (Fe), and several other micronutrients, but to ensure the best produce we need them all in the right balance. For example, we always aim for 18 times more calcium than potassium and the same for phosphorus, and we also always want between 6 and 10 times more calcium than magnesium. Once we get all those down, we then want those trace elements present in the right (trace) amounts. This meticulous fine-tuning, which takes many months of lab testing is the secret behind the effectiveness of Doc Bud's products, and you simply won't find the same thing anywhere else!
It’s common to think that providing a plant with a buffet of everything will result in the plant never lacking in any one thing, but this type of approach only works well in salt based or sterile farming methods. In living soil, we want to maximize microbial action--and having too much salt in the soil decreases this microbial action. Having too much potassium or not enough phosphorus will suppress your microbes as well. So instead of over-abundance of everything, we've found balance is best. We're not worried about feeding the plant because we feed the soil, and let the microbes take care of the plants! They're far better at it than we are.
When everything is balanced and delivered in the right ratios, the plants get everything they could ever wish for and in the most efficient manner possible; via microbial action in the soil. This is how nature designed to plants to grow, and we believe it is unequivocally the best way to grow them.

4. Soil Energy
Sure, most of us are familiar with the idea that our bodies are electric. Would you believe it if we told you soil also carries an electric charge?

Not only can we measure voltage in soil, it turns out that this electric charge plays a crucial role in making plants grow. If the soil goes 'flat', with no measurable voltage, plants will not grow. If on the other hand, the soil is massively over-fertilized and carrying a super high voltage, plants will not grow, they’ll “burn.” However, with proper voltage the plants spring to life and grow like crazy.
Soil energy is increased through
root drenching and foliar feeding

Root drenches directly increase the conductivity in the soil. Depending on the type of ionic charge in a drench, we can stimulate the vegetative or reproductive processes in the plant. An example of this can be seen in two of our drenches: Growth Ionic Drench and Cationic Drench.
Growth Ionic Drench is primarily supplying the Nitrate form of nitrogen, which has a negative ionic charge. When applied to the soil, this product stimulates growth of leaves and stems, bulking up fruits and flowers nicely. At the other end of the spectrum is Cat Drench, short for Cationic root drench. Cat Drench features "cations" or positively charged ions. This positive charge makes the plants grow, but instead of growing leaves and stems, they grow reproductive structures: calyxes, pistils, etc.
When we understand the natural cycle of plant growth we can time the application of these drenches to enhance nature, improve yield, and most of all, improve quality.
Using root drenches is just one way of increasing soil energy. The other way is via Foliar Feeding which is feeding the soil via feeding the leaves. We can look at soil as the engine that grows the plant. However, we must also realize that photosynthesis feeds the soil! In this way, it's good to look at foliar feeding like a turbo charger on that soil engine.
When the soil is dialed in and the microbes are happily chomping away at rocks and delivering them to the plant as food, the plant produces sugars and other compounds in the leaves and sends them down to the roots in the form of Root Exudates. The microbes crave these sweet exudates and will work day and night eating rocks for a sweet hit of that sugar! Even more, the plant customizes root exudates to actually communicate and signal the soil microbes to deliver certain types of nutrition.

By using a properly designed foliar spray (which is itself a dilute nutrient solution), we can increase the plant's ability to photosynthesize more energy from the sun or indoor lighting as the case may be. This increased photosynthesis results in increased root exudates, which increases microbial activity, which increases plant growth/vigor/vegetation/reproduction....which increases photosynthesis, and around and around.
Foliar feeding speeds up a plant’s metabolism, increasing nutrient density, brix readings, plant health, and terpene and essential oil production.

Here is a pic of my Chemdog 91 S1 bred by Humboldt CSI which is an example of a high Brix plant. The shiny leaves are one of the signs we look for!
I love this. I wish I had heard about it when I first started.

How difficult would it be to change from my FFOF soil, FF nutes, and AN nutes?

Would I be able to use any of my existing soil/nutrients in a Brix grow like this?
 

MrSauga

Photo of the Month: Sept 2018, Nov 2019 - Member of the Month: Feb, Dec 2019
Let me know if you or anyone else has experimented with quadline variations
I think anyone who has tried a quad has also tried a different variation at one point. We call them mistakes but learn from them. :)
 

Mr. Magoo

Member of the Month: Sept 2018 - Plant of the Month: Mar 2019 - Nug of the Month: October 2019
Hey @Mr. Magoo ... I have learned a lot this past week and I am going to read through your journal to try and pick up more info.

I have been growing in soil and found out there were some things I needed to differently with respect to quadlining, feeding and my light.

Things are starting to pay off now ... I first tried thing by myself ... and now I am reaching out for help and posing questions to our senior members.

I have heard about Brix twice now ... so I will pay attention to that part in particular.

This should be fun ... since I've enjoyed all your entries in the monthly contests!
Great to have you SQ! Feel free to ask any questions you may have. I probably won’t know the answer but this thread has some smarties in it for sure!:nerd-with-glasses:
 

Mr. Magoo

Member of the Month: Sept 2018 - Plant of the Month: Mar 2019 - Nug of the Month: October 2019
I love this. I wish I had heard about it when I first started.

How difficult would it be to change from my FFOF soil, FF nutes, and AN nutes?

Would I be able to use any of my existing soil/nutrients in a Brix grow like this?
You wouldn’t want to put synthetic nutrients in a soil that’s designed for organic growing. This soil has been mineralized in a way to promote an army of microbes to do the work for us. The organic drenches and amendments are for the microbes. Some of the synthetic nutes would wipe out many of the microbes. Even Ph up or ph down could have a negative effect on soil life in an organic grow. As far as using organic drenches on different soils.....I’m not sure. I’ve used FFOF and did well with it using foxfarm nutrients. I just ordered a small bag of it today actually. If I get some mother plants that I want to keep, I will be using the FFOF in small containers. The organic soil does better in larger containers. If I’m wrong I hope someone corrects me. Or if someone knows about using the high brix products on other soils maybe they can chime in.
 

Mr. Krip

Grow Journalist
420 Staff
How long do roots need to be before going into soil?
The more the better and it won't hurt them to stay in the cloner. You just don't want all the roots from different plants getting tangled in the res.
 

SQl2kGuy

Well-Known Member
You wouldn’t want to put synthetic nutrients in a soil that’s designed for organic growing. This soil has been mineralized in a way to promote an army of microbes to do the work for us. The organic drenches and amendments are for the microbes. Some of the synthetic nutes would wipe out many of the microbes. Even Ph up or ph down could have a negative effect on soil life in an organic grow. As far as using organic drenches on different soils.....I’m not sure. I’ve used FFOF and did well with it using foxfarm nutrients. I just ordered a small bag of it today actually. If I get some mother plants that I want to keep, I will be using the FFOF in small containers. The organic soil does better in larger containers. If I’m wrong I hope someone corrects me. Or if someone knows about using the high brix products on other soils maybe they can chime in.
Thanks for the feedback. I am currently doing synthetic nutes in organic soil because I didn't know better when I started.

I've been told I think like a hydroponics grower, so I might just try coco next.

Alright, I'm going to try to finish reading through your journal tonight.
 

Dutchman1990

Member of the Month: Dec 2018 - Grow Journal of the Month: Apr 2019 - Grow Journal of the Year: 2019
How long do roots need to be before going into soil?
I typically let mine get to 3”+ before transplanting!! Make sure you give them a really good soaking when transplanting to help ease the transition from hydro to soil!
 

InTheShed

Member of the Year: 2018 - Member of the Month: Jan 2018, Nov 2018, Jan 2020 - Grow Journal of the Month: Aug 2018 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2018
I am currently running a few quadline experiments side-by-side on autoflowers:

1) Top at second node
2) Top at third node ... remove node 1 growth node ... keep node 1 fan leaves
3) Top at fourth node ... remove node 1 & 2 growth nodes ... keep node 1 & 2 fan leaves

I am not using clones or a control ... so it is less scientific and more out of interest.
Hate to tell you this but you will have discovered nothing of use to future grows when you're done.
 

weenmeoff

Well-Known Member
I love this. I wish I had heard about it when I first started.

How difficult would it be to change from my FFOF soil, FF nutes, and AN nutes?

Would I be able to use any of my existing soil/nutrients in a Brix grow like this?
Not recommending this but I watched a grow with FF soil using docs drenches and it actually went very well. What I would do is finish up with the FF and get into Docs High Brix Kit! You will not regret it! Best grow system out there. It's so easy, affordable with GREAT results!

More info and where to buy here, https://www.420magazine.com/

I've been told I think like a hydroponics grower, so I might just try coco next.
Noooooooooo! Don't do it. Go with the kit brother.

So was the real maple syrup, actual maple syrup or was it something else from your lady....? Wink wink nudge nudge. :19:
 

InTheShed

Member of the Year: 2018 - Member of the Month: Jan 2018, Nov 2018, Jan 2020 - Grow Journal of the Month: Aug 2018 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2018

MrSauga

Photo of the Month: Sept 2018, Nov 2019 - Member of the Month: Feb, Dec 2019
Pfft, that figures. 3,648,243 trichomes.

You've done us proud again Magoo :). Great looking flowers!
 

InTheShed

Member of the Year: 2018 - Member of the Month: Jan 2018, Nov 2018, Jan 2020 - Grow Journal of the Month: Aug 2018 - Plant of the Month: Oct 2018

Graytail

Plant of the Year: 2014 - Plant of the Month: Dec 2014 - Nug of the Month: Feb 2015, Mar & Aug 2016, Dec 2017, Aug 2018, Jan 2019 - Nug of the Year: 2017 - Photo of the Month: June 2018
Birds of Paradise = KaliSnapple x (BlueMagoo x OregonHuckleberry). :3:

That's some nice genetics! I'm eager to hear what you think of it. :51:
 
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