CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

Hemp strains are almost pure cbd, and there must be landraces of them, no?
correction...
OK, so "industrial hemp"... there are a great many cultivars of industrial hemp. I would say most are very low in cannabinoids. Yes, some will have CBD in low-ish amounts, like 1-4%. A few may have CBD % above that. There is one called Finola that the breeder claims could reach 15% under ideal conditions (it's a hermie strain used to produce seed for food and oil).
true
To my knowledge, none of the industrial hemp cultivars are what could be recognized as landraces – they have all been bred for agriculture.
I think I need to correct that now and say, there are indeed hemp landraces. I was under the false impression that there was no selection and breeding going on with landraces – apparently not true. The confusion is that "landrace" does not mean "wild type". Wild type means growing wild for millennia, without human selection or breeding, and those definitely do exist.

There are wild-type hemp plants, and landrace ruderalis (autoflowering). I'm researching to find if there is a landrace cannabis that's low in THC and very high in CBD, i.e. chemotype III. I don't think there is.
Yes, there are wild type cannabis plants that would classify as hemp, meaning very low in cannabinoids, or at least very low in THC. This would include wild ruderalis. I actually don't know if there are any landrace ruderalis, but I would not be surprised at all if there were.

Big correction – there are indeed northern landraces that produce chemotype 3 offspring that are high CBD and low THC; e.g. Lebanese. I think it's safe to say there are many others, but Lebanese might be the top one in terms of potential to produce high amount of CBD, in the teens and above %.

I was under the false impression that "landrace" meant "wild type". Now the question is, are there any wild type cannabis strains that produce chemotype 3? Like the landraces, these would be specific to particular geographic regions. It's a very good question, and I don't know the answer... yet. ;)
 
correction...

true

I think I need to correct that now and say, there are indeed hemp landraces. I was under the false impression that there was no selection and breeding going on with landraces – apparently not true. The confusion is that "landrace" does not mean "wild type". Wild type means growing wild for millennia, without human selection or breeding, and those definitely do exist.


Yes, there are wild type cannabis plants that would classify as hemp, meaning very low in cannabinoids, or at least very low in THC. This would include wild ruderalis. I actually don't know if there are any landrace ruderalis, but I would not be surprised at all if there were.

Big correction – there are indeed northern landraces that produce chemotype 3 offspring that are high CBD and low THC; e.g. Lebanese. I think it's safe to say there are many others, but Lebanese might be the top one in terms of potential to produce high amount of CBD, in the teens and above %.

I was under the false impression that "landrace" meant "wild type". Now the question is, are there any wild type cannabis strains that produce chemotype 3? Like the landraces, these would be specific to particular geographic regions. It's a very good question, and I don't know the answer... yet. ;)
Dude, when are you going to open your seedbank??
"Low Mold Genetics" or something...
(Seriously...)
 
correction...

true

I think I need to correct that now and say, there are indeed hemp landraces. I was under the false impression that there was no selection and breeding going on with landraces – apparently not true. The confusion is that "landrace" does not mean "wild type". Wild type means growing wild for millennia, without human selection or breeding, and those definitely do exist.


Yes, there are wild type cannabis plants that would classify as hemp, meaning very low in cannabinoids, or at least very low in THC. This would include wild ruderalis. I actually don't know if there are any landrace ruderalis, but I would not be surprised at all if there were.

Big correction – there are indeed northern landraces that produce chemotype 3 offspring that are high CBD and low THC; e.g. Lebanese. I think it's safe to say there are many others, but Lebanese might be the top one in terms of potential to produce high amount of CBD, in the teens and above %.

I was under the false impression that "landrace" meant "wild type". Now the question is, are there any wild type cannabis strains that produce chemotype 3? Like the landraces, these would be specific to particular geographic regions. It's a very good question, and I don't know the answer... yet. ;)
Wow, that's great Intel. :thanks:
 
@cbdhemp808 you probably saw this already, but Chebarkul is "a" landrace strain CBD strain.

CHEBARKUL (RUSSIA)


Come to think of it, I could probably grow that fairly easily in my cold climate, but I am not sure how much CBD it has.

I am also not sure how well it would grow in your warm climate.
 
@cbdhemp808 you probably saw this already, but Chebarkul is "a" landrace strain CBD strain.

CHEBARKUL (RUSSIA)


Come to think of it, I could probably grow that fairly easily in my cold climate, but I am not sure how much CBD it has.

I am also not sure how well it would grow in your warm climate.
It's a ruderalis autoflower, 4.5 to 9% CBD, up to 1% THC. So, chemotype 3.

From my perspective, meh. I've got a 15% with Sweet Critical. Improvements for me would be high teens or 20+%, and then high bud rot and leaf mold resistance.

...and I wouldn't grow autos unless *MAYBE* I was doing a big CBD outdoor crop (no greenhouse), which I don't have any plans for.
 
Azomite is a water soluble mineral.
My mistake, I had been thinking of Langbeinite which is a crystal shaped mineral and one which will dissolve in water in a matter of a couple of days. Langbeinite is sometimes added to super soils and soil mixes because of its quicker dissolving and being able to add more Potassium to the mix, sometimes in under 12 weeks (in soil) which is before the grow has finished.

Azomite does not dissolve and it is up to the micro-organisms in the soil to chew on it often enough over time to release the Phosphorous. Some fertilizer supply companies do grind up the Azomite fine enough that the particles will remain suspended in the water so the mix can be used as a foliar spray.
 
My mistake, I had been thinking of Langbeinite which is a crystal shaped mineral and one which will dissolve in water in a matter of a couple of days.
Ahh, ok! Thanks for clarifying, SW!
:thumb:
Langbeinite is sometimes added to super soils and soil mixes because of its quicker dissolving and being able to add more Potassium to the mix, sometimes in under 12 weeks (in soil) which is before the grow has finished.
Long By Night = Quick dissolving in one grow. Got it.
:thumb:
Azomite does not dissolve and it is up to the micro-organisms in the soil to chew on it often enough over time to release the Phosphorous.
Right. I have used Azomite before. I only handle it in the AM unless I want to be awake half the night. It is some super high-frequency stuff! I wish I could get it here.
Here I can get some kind of rock dust (not sure which one, but it is not Azomite).
What I really want is Andean volcanic rock dust or pumice. I am sure someone must make it. There are enough volcanoes 🌋 😂
Some fertilizer supply companies do grind up the Azomite fine enough that the particles will remain suspended in the water so the mix can be used as a foliar spray.
I did not know that. Thank you for telling me that.
 
I have no time, but I wanted to get the rooftop girls under cover.
It is slightly warmer and it *feels* less breezy inside the greenhouse.
I cannot find a workman to take off the plastic and re-string, so I will do the best I can.

I can run a power cord and put fans pretty easily, but I am not in a hurry.
I think it could be a good test, to see if TopTao Blueberry Crystal will mildew inside of a greenhouse with no door and no windows, and no fans.

If they can survive WITHOUT fans, then we can put fans, and rest assured.
And in that case, I could also grow them taller in the grow room (waist high), and then send them up to the roof for flowering. And it is a little bit warmer inside the tent.
I am sure a lot of strains will not do well like that, but some might.

I think in the future I will let them get taller before moving them to the roof, but this seems like a good test of the TopTao mildew and mold resistance.

Greenhouse.jpg
 
For the RCDVB, these are three leaves on the same stem.
Does this look like brown spots from a calmag deficiency?
Or something else?

Calmag 1.jpg


A little higher:

calmag 2.jpg


Closer to the top:

calmag 3.jpg


Are those brown spots perhaps from a calcum deficiency? (This is from Grow Weed Easy Plant Doctor.)

Calcium def.jpg



Or are they different? Thanks.
 
Same, same.

What's the plan?
Plan?? :reading420magazine:
Well, I think if I understand correctly, the new game plan is that you start with a solid feeding schedule (for example, GeoFlora, or Supersoil, or Terp Tea, or MC, or what have you), and then you play "whack-a-mole" with any deficiencies. Does that sound right?

If so, then I think I would try to give that particular plant say for example 1 tablespoon of calmag over the roots in order to direct correct the deficiency immediately, and then boost the calmag maybe 50% in future waterings for that particular plant (and leave the rest alone).

Does that sound right? Or is there better?
 
Sounds good. I don't use cal/mag so can't help you with quatities, but 1 tablespoon per how much water?
If you're top feeding I would just give the full dose listed on the bottle.
Ok, the current plan is to stick to the modified GF feeding schedule, and play whack-a-mole with any deficiencies.
It looks like a calcium deficiency.
In addition to the 1 inch earthworm casting layer, I have also already been putting the standard calmag for early flower down the tube (2 teaspoons per gallon).

This was maybe wrong, but I topped off reservoir yesterday afternoon, and so the reservoirs were already almost full, so I back-sucked the tank a little bit with a turkey baster and a piece of surgical tubing, and will put that liquid over something else.
Then I mixed 1 tablespoon of calmag in a half L of water, and put it over the roots, just to get calcium to the roots quickly. (Maybe that was wrong.)

That was last night. At this point I probably need to shift to the calmag feeding schedule for full flower, which is 3 teaspoons (1 tablespoon) per gallon, and keep watching for deficiencies on any new leaves.
:thanks:
 
If I want to feed molasses and recharge at the midway point between the biweekly feedings, do I just mix molasses and Recharge in water, and pour it over the top (fresh)?
Or is it better to bubble it first as a Recharge-Molasses tea for 24 hours first (and then pour that over the top)?
(I think the latter, but just to check.) Thanks.
 
If you're top feeding I would just give the full dose listed on the bottle.
Hahaha, yeah, maybe time to switch to the dose for full flower?. 😂

IMG_2475.jpeg
 
If you're top feeding I would just give the full dose listed on the bottle.
Hmmm 🤔 I put this last application over the spreader roots, but I have been putting it down the tube (because that is what I thought @bluter said).

How do the applications instructions differ, based on whether one is putting it over the soil with 1" EWC, versus putting it down the tube?

And how do you know whether to put it over the spreader roots, or down the tube?
 
Back
Top Bottom