CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

Yes, thank you. That was interesting. It is a bit too much detail for my time schedule, though. I am literally having to carve out time to make the best buckets I can make in short order (because I might have to move), and then I have to get right back to it. But if you have time and interest in geeking out on microbes, then I am glad. But at my level I just need to remember to add microbes every week or two (but I think GeoFlora is supposed to have microbes built in).

Tomorrow morning early I hope to soak seeds, and then tomorrow afternoon I hope to plant them, and at that time I will spray the planting mix down pretty good (so it is nice and wet). And then I will keep it misted damp until it germinates, and then it is on its own. I have had some bad batches of seed, but when the seeds are good, the success rate is usually good. Roots Organic Soil and GeoFlora are supposed to have microbes built in, so I am wondering if I even need to add the Liquid Orca at times.

Sorry, bro. Life is a mile a minute for me here. I am on a different mission now but I am still on the move.
But living and biodynamic soil health (whatever you want to call it) is a big deal (because if we do not take care of the planet, what do we have?)?

Sorry, I wish I could do better, but I am on a tight schedule. Are there "actionable tips" to absorb? (I can recondition the Roots Soil. I have to examine whether it is economical to do so, or to give it to my neighbor lady, who asked me for my used soil, haha 😂 ).

Yes an actionable tip is stop soaking your seeds. You’re destroying/losing generations worth of microbes specific to that seed that are responsible for pathogen resistance, yield, quality, etc. You will have overall healthier, stronger, and higher quality plants if you stop soaking them. The different strains have spent their entire history cultivating those microbes. This is even more important if you’re looking for specific resistances in plants.

Soaking seeds is what leads to a breakdown in a plants ability to survive in natural conditions. It’s why some strains just can’t be grown outdoors any more. They’ve been stripped of their immunities.

Just roll your seeds in myco and plant them directly into your container.
 
Yes an actionable tip is stop soaking your seeds. You’re destroying/losing generations worth of microbes specific to that seed that are responsible for pathogen resistance, yield, quality, etc. You will have overall healthier, stronger, and higher quality plants if you stop soaking them. The different strains have spent their entire history cultivating those microbes. This is even more important if you’re looking for specific resistances in plants.

Soaking seeds is what leads to a breakdown in a plants ability to survive in natural conditions. It’s why some strains just can’t be grown outdoors any more. They’ve been stripped of their immunities.

Just roll your seeds in myco and plant them directly into your container.
Ok, that sounds good to me. When I started growing in 2016 I read you were only suppose to soak the five minutes. Now they say 12 hours. But that isn't how it works in nature. In nature a seed falls to the ground, and sprouts. No 12-hour soak necessary.
Thanks.
 
If you're concerned about the available real estate in the pot you have to work with, nothing says you have to add the topdressing of castings all at once. I topdress with them weekly, and add them as a 10%ish component in my mix.

Either plastic or natural materials will work as a mulch but I'm partial to the organic stuff. I use compost as mine and top it off monthly or so. With the organics you get the moisture retention of the plastic but also the microbes feeding inputs of the materials as they break down. I do have to keep my mulch layer moist however, and I mist it once or twice a day.

Edit: I see you've already filled your containers so my thoughts won't be of any use, but there they be nonetheless...
Yeah, the EWC are starting to dry already, so I want to get something on them.
I am fiddling with the plastic. I think it will blow away from the fans (and from the wind in the three on the roof).
I am rethinking, and maybe I will use a layer of coco or coco-pine. Thanks.
 
It's a pretty flexible method, you bring your normal soil and nutes and the plant waters itself from the reservoir. What is it that you don't think will work for you in your situation?
Yes, agree that it is a simple system. What I noticed is that converting over to the SIP means having to use a container without holes in the bottom and then drilling or cutting a new hole several inches up. Also involved is replacing the current pot with one that the bottom of can be custom cut which will ruin many of the ornamental flower pots I am currently using. The adding in all the filler tubes, etc.

Another thing that has made me feel that the SIP is not the answer is that once each plant is in a SIP system the pot is larger and heavier. I have a patio table under a tree with three pots on it. Still enough room for my wife to sit and read her books but if the same three plants are in a SIP set-up then there will not be enough room left. Plus, every 10 to 15 days I re-arrange the layout of flowers so those 3 could end up on the picnic table and I pull 3 pots filled some smaller growing Zinnias as a change in color,etc for that table.

Best thing would be to go to a bottom watering system which I have experimented with for several years now in my plant nursery area. (Bottom watering inside is something I am not comfortable with.) So, time to spend the gray dreary days of winter seeing if I can find some plant saucers that might work. The water in the saucer should last 2 to 3 days plus the pot's soil will absorb enough to last another day before drying out. When I want to move flowers around to change the appearance of the yard I can leave the saucers and just move the pots/plants if it is easier.

My gardening is a hobby and that includes more than just the Marijuana plants so I tend to look at the entire yard as the outdoor grow:). And a lot has to do with keeping those particular plants with their unique leaves blended into the rest of what is growing that the general public does not notice them:cool:.
 
But that isn't how it works in nature. In nature a seed falls to the ground, and sprouts. No 12-hour soak necessary.
Soaking is how it works in nature, just not the soaking in a cup of water for hours and then sitting between layers of wet paper towel.

In nature the seed falls to the ground and lays there waiting. One day it rains and the soil and seed get wet. The wet soil keeps the seed moist. Before long enzymes kick in and the seed starts to swell, the tap root pushes out and the cotyledons open up.

The whole soaking and putting seeds between paper towels is nothing more than how commercial operations test the germination rate before putting the batch of seeds on the market for farmers and gardeners. It never was intended as the optimal way to sprout seeds that then needed transplanting.

The really interesting thing is that the germination percentage from a test is only the rate for that test method. It translates into a whole different number once the seeds are in or on top of the ground. The farmer buys the hundreds of pounds of seeds to plant his acres and acres and knows that the seed breeder had a 95% rate. The farmer also knows that he will have to figure that he will get a 65% rate under field conditions and that means optimal conditions. Optimal conditions like rain at the right time that the soil stays moist enough to support the emerging root, that the temperatures of the soil stay within a range until the root system is growing and healthy other wise the seed dies, etc.
 
The whole soaking and putting seeds between paper towels is nothing more than how commercial operations test the germination rate before putting the batch of seeds on the market for farmers and gardeners. It never was intended as the optimal way to sprout seeds that then needed transplanting.

You’re literally the only other person beside my grandpa that I’ve seen explain this. It’s interesting too because there’s plenty of farmers that have been on this site, and there’s plenty that grow cannabis, yet I’ve never seen them explain this either. I learned it from my Grandfather when I was young
 
Ok, that sounds good to me. When I started growing in 2016 I read you were only suppose to soak the five minutes. Now they say 12 hours. But that isn't how it works in nature. In nature a seed falls to the ground, and sprouts. No 12-hour soak necessary.
Thanks.

Its prohibition. Prohibition has lead to many growers misunderstanding agricultural practices, or incorrectly applying science. Scarifying, soaking in sterile water, sprouting in paper towel, it’s all nonsense that often does far more harm than good.

If a grower is adamant on using paper towel or soaking in a jar, it’s recommended to plant the paper towel used (do not let the paper towel dry out), or pour the water from the jar into the medium. That way you don’t lose all the microbes.

This of course means that only one seed should be sprouted in a glass or paper towel and every seed after that should get its own glass or paper towel.

It’s way easier just to roll in myco and toss in the medium. I have a 100% germination rate doing this and have only ever lost 1 sprout because it’s shell pinched the stem as it came above ground.
 
Yes an actionable tip is stop soaking your seeds. You’re destroying/losing generations worth of microbes specific to that seed that are responsible for pathogen resistance, yield, quality, etc. You will have overall healthier, stronger, and higher quality plants if you stop soaking them. The different strains have spent their entire history cultivating those microbes. This is even more important if you’re looking for specific resistances in plants.

Soaking seeds is what leads to a breakdown in a plants ability to survive in natural conditions. It’s why some strains just can’t be grown outdoors any more. They’ve been stripped of their immunities.

Just roll your seeds in myco and plant them directly into your container.
Ok, I stopped the soak, and just planted everything. (I cheated, and watered in with Liquid Orca myco).
Everything was bought from a sponsor.
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1 each Royal CBDV Auto by Royal Queen Seeds. (Spendy but I was curious.)
4 each Swiss Dream Auto CBD by Kannabia.

And on the roof we have:
3 each Blueberry Crystal by TopTao Genetics.

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I guess it is technically a different grow.
I suppose I probably *should put this grow in my "Rooftop Grow" that I just finished, but it seems simpler to cover both in one thread. So we will see what happens :)
 
Yes an actionable tip is stop soaking your seeds. You’re destroying/losing generations worth of microbes specific to that seed that are responsible for pathogen resistance, yield, quality, etc. You will have overall healthier, stronger, and higher quality plants if you stop soaking them. The different strains have spent their entire history cultivating those microbes. This is even more important if you’re looking for specific resistances in plants.

Soaking seeds is what leads to a breakdown in a plants ability to survive in natural conditions. It’s why some strains just can’t be grown outdoors any more. They’ve been stripped of their immunities.

Just roll your seeds in myco and plant them directly into your container.
Ok, I stopped the soak, and just planted everything. (I cheated, and watered in with Liquid Orca myco).
Everything was bought from a sponsor.
For your viewing pleasure, we have:

6 each Auto Blue Ace by Delicious seeds.
5 each CBD Crack Auto by Fastbuds.
1 each Royal CBDV Auto by Royal Queen Seeds. (Spendy but I was curious.)
4 each Swiss Dream Auto CBD by Kannabia.

And on the roof we have:
3 each Blueberry Crystal by TopTao Genetics (with shredded coco-pine for a mulch).

roof.jpg


So we will see what happens :)
 
Ok, I stopped the soak, and just planted everything. (I cheated, and watered in with Liquid Orca myco).
Everything was bought from a sponsor.
For your viewing pleasure, we have:

6 each Auto Blue Ace by Delicious seeds.
5 each CBD Crack Auto by Fastbuds.
1 each Royal CBDV Auto by Royal Queen Seeds. (Spendy but I was curious.)
4 each Swiss Dream Auto CBD by Kannabia.

And on the roof we have:
3 each Blueberry Crystal by TopTao Genetics.

roof.jpg


I guess it is technically a different grow.
I suppose I probably *should put this grow in my "Rooftop Grow" that I just finished, but it seems simpler to cover both in one thread. So we will see what happens :)

That works too. You want myco right on or around the seed so the moment the plant can signal to it, it’s ready to go. Watering in with myco should work just as well.
 
That works too. You want myco right on or around the seed so the moment the plant can signal to it, it’s ready to go. Watering in with myco should work just as well.
Ok, good to know.
I put some Orca in the mister water also. I keep things moist with that mister until I see cotylydons, and then I quit, and let her take it from there. That way she is always used to the gradient.
 
Ahhh... light bulb coming on.
I said our goal is a self-sustaining farm, Keff suggests learning about microbes. Makes sense. :thumb:
I highly recommend the other books in the series... Teaming with Fungi, Teaming with Nutrients, Teaming with Microbes.
 
I highly recommend the other books in the series... Teaming with Fungi, Teaming with Nutrients, Teaming with Microbes.
Thanks, CBD.
I have a reading list a mile long, but if I get time I will be sure to add them to the stack. They sound good.
 
I found some charcoal online to make bio-char, and ordered one test bag.
Are these fragments the right size? (The bigger chunks settle to the top, but I was expecting smaller fragments...)
Are these too big? Or just right (and soak 'em up with EWC)?

carbon.jpg
 
Howdy Several way to do char right through my worm bin in layers with the food or do a compost tea to inoculate the char if you dont do it correctly itll suck up the nuits right out of the soil like a magnetic draw it all works on ions or if you charge it wrong you'll fill it with bad microbes you don't want that!✌️
 
Sea of Grinch, hola from Colombia!
Howdy Several way to do char right through my worm bin in layers with the food or do a compost tea to inoculate the char if you dont do it correctly itll suck up the nuits right out of the soil like a magnetic draw it all works on ions or if you charge it wrong you'll fill it with bad microbes you don't want that!✌️
Yeah, I made the mistake of not charging them right once 😬 .
How would I charge them right?
I cannot remember the ratio of EWC to charcoal, but I think I did something like 1:1.
If I mix the EWC with the charcoal 1:1 (50/50), and soak it in water for several months, should that work?
One website said you could add a little flour if you want to speed the process up, but I am ok.

• Mix Biochar 50/50 with worm castings and add a small amount of flour. The flour works as a food for microbes and encourages them to grow rapidly and bind everything together. This process can take only a couple of weeks.
• Sprinkle Biochar in your chicken run. It will help to reduce any odours while at the same time absorbing the nutrients from the chicken waste. When you clean out your chickens, mix with some compost and leave it for a few weeks to ferment a little more before applying to the soil.
 
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