CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

[CBDMed]

The children on the roof look much better than I expected so far. They were lighter in color, and I was a little concerned that they might not have enough nitrogen, so I added some urine to the rez on Friday, and they sprang up over Shabbat. (It was enough that I was able to put the training stakes today).
I will probably continue to add controlled urine amounts to the rez, and then back it off if if the leaves get too dark (and temporarily discontinue if I see signs of nitrogen clawing).
It was great to see the girls spring up!

I do not like 50-50% odds for seeds, so I planted two more seeds, and neither came up.
Then I started to get concerned, so I plucked one small all-THC auto and planted THREE more seeds (like maybe 4 days ago), and I am still waiting.
(I am really hoping for some adapted seeds from this planting, while it is warmer ("summer"), and the plants seem to grow reasonably well.)

 

[CBDMed]

Yeah, it's true. I rarely ever find something eating my flowers. Once in a great while I see a green caterpillar or two, which I just pick off. Or maybe a little aphid activity, but not like an infestation that's going to damage the flowers. I do get bugs in veg, but not a lot. For some reason, once the flowers form, not really any bug damage to leaves. This might be due to a pheno's natural defenses, or because neem applied in veg has become systemic in the plant.

I have used the peroxide solution against leaf mold and bud rot. Not really for bugs specifically.

I meant to comment earlier, I have added lots of neem oil directly to the soil before, hoping the plants would pick it up systemically. Maybe it helped reduce bugs outside? But it never did eliminate bugs outside.

(I like the mesh walls idea. )

 

[CBDMed]

EDITED (answered some of my own questions):
The Dr. Earth All Purpose 4-6-5 just came in. This is the stuff that I "panic-bought" back when I saw the video where human urine barely powers lettuce, let alone peppers--so I looked for whatever I could get to ship.
I ordered this before I realized I could also supplement Terp Tea Bloom (and that it would be a lot cheaper--and I still might use Terp Tea Bloom for a base. I have not decided yet.)

The plan is to supplement the feeding with N (from human urine) and K (from Azi's banana peel EWC tea), plus some liquid PK-13/14 (because all the girls are starting to throw pistils).
INGREDIENTS for Dr. Earth Life) are fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, fish meal, potassium sulfate, and kelp meal.
4-6-5
It looks like this:

Thinking about this, I think I actually used closer to 6 or 7 Lbs of GF Veg in pre-loading the 15 SIPs.
Nonetheless, I think I will use two of the 4 Lb sacks in a mesh bag with a bubbler for 24 hours.

My questions:
How much molasses do I use?
And do I bubble for 24 hours? Or for 12?

 

[CBDMed]

One of the new seeds just came up, and I went digging for the other two beans (just to look).

In the oldest supersoil bucket, I found the new replacement bean, not yet popped.
(It has only been in there four days, but i wanted to look.)

Around the bean were little tiny white worms crawling around. Do I assume these are beneficial worms that leave frass, and not worry unless a problem develops (because after all, it is an organic grow, and worms and such live in soil??)

 

[cbdhemp808]

I meant to comment earlier, I have added lots of neem oil directly to the soil before, hoping the plants would pick it up systemically. Maybe it helped reduce bugs outside? But it never did eliminate bugs outside.

I don't think that's a good idea, it may kill microbes in the soil. I think it will go systemic just by spraying on the leaves.

 

[CBDMed]

I don't think that's a good idea, it may kill microbes in the soil. I think it will go systemic just by spraying on the leaves.

Good to know, thank you.

Would a neem oil/soap spray maybe help plants transition from inside to outside when hardening off?
(My thinking is that it would help coat the leaves, and lock the moisture in.)

 

[cbdhemp808]

I am not really trying to breed anything right now. Right now I am just trying to adapt some "auto regulars" to this climate.
Later I may want to breed, but right now it is way over my level.

When you use that word, "adapt," I think you are automatically implying generational adaptation. In the case of autoflowers, you can't affect the next generation unless you pollinate and produce seeds, and then select the individuals of the next generation that perform better in your environment. That's tricky.

With photoperiod plants, you can simply identify the plants that do better, and then clone them.

I have not tried Chemdawg. Is it anything like diesel?

I haven't grown Chemdawg, and I don't think I've ever consumed any, but not sure.

Yes, I was thinking the pollen would get all over my hands and clothes when I go up on the roof to feed and maintain, and that it would seed the girls downstairs for sure.
I thought I could collect the earliest pollen sacks on any males, and then make seeds and pollinate what is needed, and then destroy the males young (and re-use the soil for another purpose).
(At least it sounds good in theory...)

I would like to isolate the males, but an isolated tent is not possible here, beacuse of condensation.
I had a bamboo greenhouse put up on the roof, but I had to take the doors and the window off, because of condensation.
I need to have the plastic walls taken off, so I can get good airflow.
Alternately, I *could just string a power cord, and put some fans, to make sure the air stays moving.

If you want to collect pollen, you basically need to contain the plant in a plastic enclosure, and yes, add fans. The male flowers tend to ripen toward the top of the plant first, and there you can notice when they are getting close to ready to release pollen, then you can collect it in a little container.

If there is any airflow between the male plant and the outside world, when the pollen is releasing, you'll send pollen out into your surrounding area and anyone growing buds there may wind up with seedy buds. Cannabis pollen is very tiny and rides the air currents.

I asked "Mr. Tao" about his seeds, and he said that he grows in greenhouses, so he likes mold resistant strains. But how mold resistant they are really, I do not know. I chose one of his Blueberry strains to start with, because I think (you or) someone said that blueberry is somewhat mold resistant, so I thought I would start with that.
I planted three more seeds, but so far nothing has come up.

It's a big subject and I am deep in the rabbit hole right now. It's all about the phenotypes, and to a much lesser degree about the strains. I am correlating bud rot and leaf mold resistance to terpene profile, and two different phenos of a strain can produce completely different terp profiles.

Well, right now I am only trying to adapt them.
Later it would be great to try breeding, but at the moment I need to focus on other areas of learning.

Unless I'm missing something, you can't do any adaptation with your auto genetics unless you select offspring and grow another generation. Rinse, repeat.

"There's a breeder called Twenty20 in Mendocino, Calif., that has an interesting page on their website talking about their autoflowers and breeding techniques... you might want to check it out. I'd give the link, but I think that's probably against the forum rules."​

You like them because they have a lot of resistance to mold? Or is it the breeding techniques I should check out?

Breeding techniques for autoflowers specifically. Lots of good info there.

One more thing... I'm guessing you opted for autoflowers because of the light pollution at night where you are growing. Maybe it's possible that you could shield your grow from that light. One plant that grows very fast and tall is the Mexican Sunflower. If you put those in a container box, they could provide a light barrier very quickly. Just an idea.

 

[CBDMed]

When you use that word, "adapt," I think you are automatically implying generational adaptation.

I think that is what I mean to say, yes.

In the case of autoflowers, you can't affect the next generation unless you pollinate and produce seeds, and then select the individuals of the next generation that perform better in your environment.

Well, life is what happens while you are making other plans, right?

I was thinking about growing Photo regulars in SIPs and then switching to 12-12, because this is the warm part of the year, and I do not really need the indoor heat right now. And that probably would've made a lot more product, a lot more quickly.
I think if I was to do it over, I would've grown some CBD Photo feminized inside, and flipped to 12-12, and at the same time I could have launched some CBD auto regulars up to the roof.

The reason for the CBD auto regulars is that I wanted to start getting ready for when we transition to the farm. (I am still holding out hope that we will get money to build.) Probably it would have been better to run Photo feminized, and then deal with that later, but I did not think of it.

I realize that this will probably be a minority view, but I am not overly concerned if I get some seeds in my bud down inside. I realize you lose some potency but the seeds have their own beneficial spiritual and medicinal values, and I do not find seeds objectionable either toasted (as cannabis dust), or vaporized.

Some ancient and traditional natural medical systems consider that the seeds are the best and most complete part of the plant. (Humans core apples, pears, and other fruit, but animals just eat the whole thing.)

That's tricky.

Yes.
Only, it would seem helpful if I want to adapt the plants to starting inside and transplanting outside.

With photoperiod plants, you can simply identify the plants that do better, and then clone them.

I haven't grown Chemdawg, and I don't think I've ever consumed any, but not sure.

I need to grow out what I already have now, but when I run out of seeds, I may look for some Chemdawg or some kind of Diesel CBD. (I used to like New York City diesel. Tasted terrible but I loved it )

If you want to collect pollen, you basically need to contain the plant in a plastic enclosure, and yes, add fans. The male flowers tend to ripen toward the top of the plant first, and there you can notice when they are getting close to ready to release pollen, then you can collect it in a little container.

If there is any airflow between the male plant and the outside world, when the pollen is releasing, you'll send pollen out into your surrounding area and anyone growing buds there may wind up with seedy buds. Cannabis pollen is very tiny and rides the air currents.

Hahahaha, this will sound terrible, but I'm not too concerned about it
Environmental controls in this part of the world are nearly nonexistent. The best defense is distance.
I don't think too many people are growing here, but people here get excited to get seeds. (I gave one of my workers some spare white widow photo seeds, and he was happy.)

I would never intentionally pollute anything harmful (or at least I hope not, not on purpose), but basically I have my indoor grow room, and then I have the roof, and I thought to see if I can start adapting Seeds to the outdoors.
My thought is just to let the males come up early on the roof, watch for flowers (like you said), pollinate the best looking females, and done.
Rinse and repeat,but maybe also change the flavor each time for a while, if that makes sense.

It's a big subject and I am deep in the rabbit hole right now. It's all about the phenotypes, and to a much lesser degree about the strains. I am correlating bud rot and leaf mold resistance to terpene profile, and two different phenos of a strain can produce completely different terp profiles.

i get it.
thanks.

Unless I'm missing something, you can't do any adaptation with your auto genetics unless you select offspring and grow another generation. Rinse, repeat.

Yes, I am trying to grow and rotate different flavors, to find what works.
I hope to adapt CBD to the local area as best I can.
Probably I would do things differently if I was to do it again, but this is what I've got, and I really should try to adapt the seeds that I have, and grow out all the Photo regulars and fems that I have before I go buying anything else.

Breeding techniques for autoflowers specifically. Lots of good info there.

Thanks. I will try to check.

One more thing... I'm guessing you opted for autoflowers because of the light pollution at night where you are growing.

That was the original reason when we were in the warmer climate area. I had no room inside so I had to grow on the roof, and there was tons of light pollution.
there is light pollution here also. And they're probably will be light pollution where we end up. So I thought some of the bigger 2 m tall autos would be a good way to grow.
I also have quite a few photo feminized that I want to grow out.

Someday if I ever find a sativa mold reistant photo CBD regular (or even a fem) that is all CBD (20:1 or whatever), then I would probably like to get those seeds also, so I could learn how to breed with the local sativas. (But that's a ways in the future for me right now. I have to learn other things right now, and grow out many other seeds before I buy any more.)

Maybe it's possible that you could shield your grow from that light. One plant that grows very fast and tall is the Mexican Sunflower. If you put those in a container box, they could provide a light barrier very quickly. Just an idea.

I will have to cross that bridge when I get to it.
Tall autos seem ideal for the moment. Because I think you get more product for your effort when you let them get bigger.
And with autos I do not need to worry about light pollution.
I need to read that article you mentioned.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I was thinking about growing Photo regulars in SIPs and then switching to 12-12, because this is the warm part of the year, and I do not really need the indoor heat right now. And that probably would've made a lot more product, a lot more quickly.
I think if I was to do it over, I would've grown some CBD Photo feminized inside, and flipped to 12-12, and at the same time I could have launched some CBD auto regulars up to the roof.

sounds good.

The reason for the CBD auto regulars is that I wanted to start getting ready for when we transition to the farm. (I am still holding out hope that we will get money to build.) Probably it would have been better to run Photo feminized, and then deal with that later, but I did not think of it.

You mean so that you wouldn't need to buy more seed to get started at the farm? It's easy to get photoperiod feminized seed for very good CBD varieties. From the phenos that are produced, you would be able to select the ones that grow well in your area. Then you could clone them. That's so much easier than dealing with growing males, collecting pollen, and pollinating.

I realize that this will probably be a minority view, but I am not overly concerned if I get some seeds in my bud down inside. I realize you lose some potency but the seeds have their own beneficial spiritual and medicinal values, and I do not find seeds objectionable either toasted (as cannabis dust), or vaporized.

Some ancient and traditional natural medical systems consider that the seeds are the best and most complete part of the plant. (Humans core apples, pears, and other fruit, but animals just eat the whole thing.)

For edibles it's not a big issue. But nobody wants to smoke seeds. Or have one wind up in the grinder. A seed here and there is one thing, but a lot of seeds in a bud is another issue altogether.

I can tell you right now that most of the worldwide growing community will frown on anyone who is releasing pollen into the environment. It's not a matter of personal preference, but a matter of not messing up other people's grows. Again, the pollen can travel for miles. If someone is trying to grow good bud, and some seeds show up from random pollen, usually those seeds are just a nuisance – nobody would want to grow them out. I mean, somebody who really doesn't care what kind of plant will grow might want to grow them.

Yes.
Only, it would seem helpful if I want to adapt the plants to starting inside and transplanting outside.

OK, so that was a yes to the complexity of growing auto regulars, selecting offspring, and breeding the selected males and females to produce another generation, etc.

Again, when I hear the word "adaptation," it makes me think of selecting offspring that do well in your area, your climate, and the other conditions of your grow (soil, lighting, etc.) Breeders also select for specific traits. Cannabis is very hardy. I don't think you even need to worry about moving them from inside to outside, in terms of the plants adjusting to the outdoor environment. If it's a lot colder outside, that could be an issue; however, remember that cannabis likes a particular temperature range, and if you're below or above that, they won't do very well. And, if the temperature is in that range, they should do OK.

"...plants in their vegetative stage prefer a temperature in a range from about 68 to about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. When they are flowering, cannabis plants like a range of about 65 to 85 degrees."​

I need to grow out what I already have now, but when I run out of seeds, I may look for some Chemdawg or some kind of Diesel CBD.

Chemdawg isn't a CBD variety. But you could probably find seed for high-CBD versions of Chemdawg and Sour Diesel. Those would typically be called Chemdawg CBD and Sour Diesel CBD. Note however that those would typically be chemotype II, meaning they would also have significant amounts of THC.

Hahahaha, this will sound terrible, but I'm not too concerned about it
Environmental controls in this part of the world are nearly nonexistent. The best defense is distance.
I don't think too many people are growing here, but people here get excited to get seeds. (I gave one of my workers some spare white widow photo seeds, and he was happy.)

I would never intentionally pollute anything harmful (or at least I hope not, not on purpose), but basically I have my indoor grow room, and then I have the roof, and I thought to see if I can start adapting Seeds to the outdoors.
My thought is just to let the males come up early on the roof, watch for flowers (like you said), pollinate the best looking females, and done.
Rinse and repeat,but maybe also change the flavor each time for a while, if that makes sense.

The question is, how much distance is enough distance? Clearly, the chance of messing up someone else's grow diminishes greatly with distance...

"... experts recommend a minimum distance of 10 miles between outdoor cannabis fields. Research has shown that pollen can travel much further than 10 miles, but the amount of pollen transported decreases logarithmically with increasing distance from the source. Therefore, the risk of pollination should be negligible beyond ten miles from a pollen source."​

Ten miles is huge. With a small number of males in your grow – or one fertile male – it seems like you wouldn't need to worry beyond a 2-5 mile radius. Then again, "a single male flower can produce 350,000 pollen grains". If your male plant or plants were indoors (but not necessarily sealed from the outdoors), it's hard to see very much pollen escaping. Further, if your females that are going to be pollinated are also indoor, even less pollen would be reaching the outside world. Once pollination is successful, you can water the plants down and the area around them with water, to immobilize any remaining pollen.

each one of these little male flowers... 350,000 pollen grains

I hope to adapt CBD to the local area as best I can.

I don't know what you mean by adapt CBD to the local area.

There are a great number of CBD strains (chemotype III) out there, with feminized or regular seed available. There are also a great number of THC/CBD strains (chemotype II).

All you need to do is select a couple that you guess would be good given your climate, and then plant the seeds in the same pot size, same soil, same feeding, etc. And then select the ones that grow the best.

I don't know what your year round climate is like. Here in Hawaii we are in a daytime temperature range of high 60s F to about 85 F. The low rarely gets below say 68 F. The absolute lowest would be maybe 57 F, but that is very rare.

I can grow just about anything here, in terms of sativa or indica. I just select for the phenos that are the most vigorous. And then I'm also searching for phenos that have the best terpene profiles for bud rot and leaf mold resistance. That's my main concern – bud rot. After that, leaf mold.

RE: outdoor light pollution as the reason for growing autos...

Someday if I ever find a sativa mold resistant photo CBD regular (or even a fem) that is all CBD (20:1 or whatever), then I would probably like to get those seeds also, so I could learn how to breed with the local sativas.

There are lots of mold resistant THC sativas. I have yet to encounter a solid sativa that's a chemotype III (high CBD, <1% THC). I grew Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and it definitely had some sativa effects, but it turned out to be susceptible to powdery mildew. One you might want to look into is Dinamed Plus, from Spain. It's a 10% CBD strain that has an outrageous terpene profile, which might very well be mold resistant. @WillCall just showed us the lab test results for his Dinamed Plus pheno, here:

Vaporizing vs Decarbing

I don't know the answer to a question that I have about decarbing vs. vaporizing. For instance, CBDA has a boiling point of 120C while CBD has a boiling point of 180C. If fresh bud with CBDA is heated to 120C, does the CBDA vaporize? It should. But that is the temperature at which it is...

www.420magazine.com

Now the question is, is this pheno sativa dominant? I'd say the answer is maybe sativa leaning, based on the crazy amount of pine terpenes: camphene, guaiol, alpha-pinene, and beta-pinene. I did a quick lookup and guaiol and beta-pinene are known as being stimulating or uplifting. This is a very special pheno from what I can tell, because those high amounts of camphene and guaiol are probably very rare. That's my educated guess.

 

[CBDMed]

You mean so that you wouldn't need to buy more seed to get started at the farm?

Yes. Only, it is not really the cost that I am concerned about.
For full disclosure, some people have done lots and lots of research, and yet they still see the world as being a wee bit unstable, and they are concerned about food and medicine security in a world trending toward the WEF UN Agenda 2030 "there will be global communism coordinated by the government, and you will own nothing, and you will be happy about it."
Some people have had dealings with the government, and while they USED to trust the government with their very lives, AFTER those dealings, they don't trust the government too much.

For example, I do not trust the government to properly diagnose my autism or any other medical conditions (some of which they caused), and absolutely I do not trust them to issue the appropriate medicines (which they keep criminalized at the federal level). (And I also do not trust the ultra-rich <1% who basically own the government, and all of its decisions).
Without respect to security classifications, or what was seen, as a result of my experiences with the government, I want the ability to guarantee my own food and medicine security, WITHOUT having to ask Big Brother for permission to eat, or to get my medicine.
(Sorry if that seems tin foil, but without respect to "what has been seen", I like my position, and have no plans to change it.)

It's easy to get photoperiod feminized seed for very good CBD varieties.

Yes. And unless you are just growing in dirt with compost, it is usually cheaper and easier to use pre-feminized seeds, also.
It only gets cheaper to use regulars if you do things the old fashioned way (like they do things here).

From the phenos that are produced, you would be able to select the ones that grow well in your area. Then you could clone them. That's so much easier than dealing with growing males, collecting pollen, and pollinating.

Hmmm.... I am not real sure how I feel about cloning at the spiritual level.
And isn't the gel toxic?

For edibles it's not a big issue. But nobody wants to smoke seeds. Or have one wind up in the grinder. A seed here and there is one thing, but a lot of seeds in a bud is another issue altogether.

I understand.
But some people (and most ancient and natural medicinal systems) think that the seeds are the best and most nutritious part of the plant, both physically and spiritually (if you follow that kind of thing).
(I am sure not everyone agrees.)
Cannabis seeds are specifically named in Classical Chinese Medicine as having certain religious and spiritual values.

I can tell you right now that most of the worldwide growing community will frown on anyone who is releasing pollen into the environment. It's not a matter of personal preference, but a matter of not messing up other people's grows. Again, the pollen can travel for miles. If someone is trying to grow good bud, and some seeds show up from random pollen, usually those seeds are just a nuisance – nobody would want to grow them out. I mean, somebody who really doesn't care what kind of plant will grow might want to grow them.

Yes, well, that seems like a very good point. Thank you for mentioning that. It puts things in a different perspective, and we will have to think about that.
We just had a major clash with the neighbor lady last week. She thinks that it is 100% my problem how loud she wants to play her music, no matter what the community rules say (and the administrator is her friend, and ignores the rules for her). Even with earmuffs I could not get it quiet enough to think and work in my own house.
I suppose pollen could be considered in the same category, so I will have to do a serious re-think on that.
Thanks.

OK, so that was a yes to the complexity of growing auto regulars, selecting offspring, and breeding the selected males and females to produce another generation, etc.

Again, when I hear the word "adaptation," it makes me think of selecting offspring that do well in your area, your climate, and the other conditions of your grow (soil, lighting, etc.)

Hm. Well, maybe there is something I am not getting?
With tomatoes, you plant them, and then you take seeds from the best looking plants and the best looking fruits, and then over generations you end up with tomatoes that grow better in your area.
Is it wrong to think that this works the same way with cannabis?

Breeders also select for specific traits. Cannabis is very hardy. I don't think you even need to worry about moving them from inside to outside, in terms of the plants adjusting to the outdoor environment. If it's a lot colder outside, that could be an issue; however, remember that cannabis likes a particular temperature range, and if you're below or above that, they won't do very well. And, if the temperature is in that range, they should do OK.

"...plants in their vegetative stage prefer a temperature in a range from about 68 to about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. When they are flowering, cannabis plants like a range of about 65 to 85 degrees."​

That is exactly what I am saying.
When it is "winter" where you are, it is the only time of year when the temperatures climb into the low 70s during the day.
When it is "summer" where you are, it is super cold here, and I want the lights on in the grow room just to take the edge off the cold in the house!
The rest of the year is not this warm.

Chemdawg isn't a CBD variety. But you could probably find seed for high-CBD versions of Chemdawg and Sour Diesel. Those would typically be called Chemdawg CBD and Sour Diesel CBD. Note however that those would typically be chemotype II, meaning they would also have significant amounts of THC.

I like THC also.
1:1 (and 2:1, and 4:1, and 8:1) historically works well for me.

The question is, how much distance is enough distance? Clearly, the chance of messing up someone else's grow diminishes greatly with distance...

"... experts recommend a minimum distance of 10 miles between outdoor cannabis fields. Research has shown that pollen can travel much further than 10 miles, but the amount of pollen transported decreases logarithmically with increasing distance from the source. Therefore, the risk of pollination should be negligible beyond ten miles from a pollen source."​

TEN miles??????
Oy... (I was thinking like a half-mile...)
I might have to put the regulars back in the refrigerator drawer until we get moved to the property and get some isolation greenhouses built...
Probably the isolation greenhouses will need their own dehumidifiers???

Ten miles is huge. With a small number of males in your grow – or one fertile male – it seems like you wouldn't need to worry beyond a 2-5 mile radius. Then again, "a single male flower can produce 350,000 pollen grains". If your male plant or plants were indoors (but not necessarily sealed from the outdoors), it's hard to see very much pollen escaping. Further, if your females that are going to be pollinated are also indoor, even less pollen would be reaching the outside world. Once pollination is successful, you can water the plants down and the area around them with water, to immobilize any remaining pollen.

each one of these little male flowers... 350,000 pollen grains

Oy....
I guess I will need to shelve the project until we get relocated, and can build isolation greenhouses for any males...

I don't know what you mean by adapt CBD to the local area.

Well, just like with the tomato analogy above.
W are in a high, cool, humid Andean valley. I do not think cannabis grows wild here, just because it is too cold for it to germinate reliably. And it seems to be growing fine right now, because it is the warm time of year.
THey say cannabis likes around 75-78F for germination, and it never reaches that temperature here, even on peak sunny days.
Here, in this warmer time of year, the daily high is around 71-73F.
Six months from now the daily high will be like 66-67F (and in the low 50's at night).
So I am accepting the fact that the girls will have to be started inside, and then moved outdoors.

There are a great number of CBD strains (chemotype III) out there, with feminized or regular seed available. There are also a great number of THC/CBD strains (chemotype II).

All you need to do is select a couple that you guess would be good given your climate, and then plant the seeds in the same pot size, same soil, same feeding, etc. And then select the ones that grow the best.

I don't know what your year round climate is like. Here in Hawaii we are in a daytime temperature range of high 60s F to about 85 F. The low rarely gets below say 68 F. The absolute lowest would be maybe 57 F, but that is very rare.

It is now about 71-73F for us here.
In six (more like 3 months), it will be maybe 67-68F daily highs.
The idea idea was simply to adapt the tomatoes and cannabis to the climate...

I can grow just about anything here, in terms of sativa or indica. I just select for the phenos that are the most vigorous. And then I'm also searching for phenos that have the best terpene profiles for bud rot and leaf mold resistance. That's my main concern – bud rot. After that, leaf mold.

Hmm...
And you do not see sativas as being more mold resistant, because of the airiness of the bud structure?

(Are you suggesting that sativa or indica makes no difference--but what matters is the terpenes?)

RE: outdoor light pollution as the reason for growing autos...

There are lots of mold resistant THC sativas. I have yet to encounter a solid sativa that's a chemotype III (high CBD, <1% THC). I grew Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and it definitely had some sativa effects, but it turned out to be susceptible to powdery mildew. One you might want to look into is Dinamed Plus, from Spain. It's a 10% CBD strain that has an outrageous terpene profile, which might very well be mold resistant. @WillCall just showed us the lab test results for his Dinamed Plus pheno, here:

I just wrote them to inquire, and they said that they are still shut down.

>> "Dear customers, We are very sorry to inform you that Dinafem Seeds are currently under judicial investigation. As a result, and against our will, we are now unable to engage in any commercial activity. We are working round the clock to clarify this situation in order to resume normal activity as soon as possible, but we still don’t know when we’ll be able to operate normally in the way we’ve done for the last 21 years. We’ll keep you informed of any developments. Thank you very much for your trust."

Vaporizing vs Decarbing

I don't know the answer to a question that I have about decarbing vs. vaporizing. For instance, CBDA has a boiling point of 120C while CBD has a boiling point of 180C. If fresh bud with CBDA is heated to 120C, does the CBDA vaporize? It should. But that is the temperature at which it is...

www.420magazine.com

Now the question is, is this pheno sativa dominant? I'd say the answer is maybe sativa leaning, based on the crazy amount of pine terpenes: camphene, guaiol, alpha-pinene, and beta-pinene. I did a quick lookup and guaiol and beta-pinene are known as being stimulating or uplifting. This is a very special pheno from what I can tell, because those high amounts of camphene and guaiol are probably very rare. That's my educated guess.

I guess I will have to shelve the auto-regular process until I can build isolation greenhouses to contain the males.
Thanks for saying.

 

[InTheShed]

And isn't the gel toxic?

You can cut open the leaf of an aloe plant and rub the stem in that gel if you prefer.

Hmmm.... I am not real sure how I feel about cloning at the spiritual level.

Does the bible have some prohibition about taking a cutting from a plant and sticking in the soil to root? There are loads of plants that propagate that way in nature.

 

[CBDMed]

You can cut open the leaf of an aloe plant and rub the stem in that gel if you prefer.

Thanks. What is the efficacy of that? (How well does it work?)

Does the bible have some prohibition about taking a cutting from a plant and sticking in the soil to root? There are loads of plants that propagate that way in nature.

Lol! Good question!
Yeah, if I guess runners are ok, and if cutting the tip from a coca plant or a willow and sticking it in the ground is ok, then what do I really have against cloning, except for the toxicity of the gel??
Super good question, Shed! (I am going to have to pray about that.)

 

[InTheShed]

Thanks. What is the efficacy of that? (How well does it work?)

From what I hear it works pretty well! But then I have pretty good luck with cuttings in a cup of perlite with an inch of water at the the bottom, a heat mat, and a lot of time.

Yeah, if I guess runners are ok, and if cutting the tip from a coca plant or a willow and sticking it in the ground is ok, then what do I really have against cloning,

I believe that almost every succulent will root if a branch is knocked off the plant and it rests on the soil. Even some leaves!

 

[CBDMed]

From what I hear it works pretty well! But then I have pretty good luck with cuttings in a cup of perlite with an inch of water at the the bottom, a heat mat, and a lot of time.

Hmmm.....
Maybe I will have to end up working on my cloning technique???

I believe that almost every succulent will root if a branch is knocked off the plant and it rests on the soil. Even some leaves!

Lol!!
Yes, cacti and succulents will typically root just laying on the ground, and they can survive a long time, because they do not transpire much water.
But... while cannabis can TASTE very succulent, I do not think it is a succulent!
And it looks like you are starting a whole forest!

 

[InTheShed]

LOL not mine, though I have rooted succulents that way. I just grabbed that pic off the internet as an example of what "cloning" might look like in the wild!

 

[CBDMed]

I used to like to eat those nopales "cactus pear" fruits. We would just lay a nopale leaf down on the ground, and come back later. They would definitely root on their own, no gel, no aloe, no willow tree bark in spring, nothing.

I saw them in the hot place we were at before here. (Too bad they don't grow here!!)

 

[Absorber]

Even some leaves!

Funny you say that on those last cuttings I took ,I cut a couple of the right at a shade leaf and left the shade leaf connected by 2mm of material and even the shade leaf grew healthy roots

 

[cbdhemp808]

It may be possible to make a rooting liquid/gel out of ground up tomato leaves or stems. They contain a lot of the rooting hormone. One thing I've noticed about the Clonex gel... looks like it needs to be kept in the fridge, otherwise it loses its potency. Maybe the powder keeps longer at room temps.

 

[Absorber]

I keep mine in the fridge

It may be possible to make a rooting liquid/gel out of ground up tomato leaves or stems. They contain a lot of the rooting hormone. One thing I've noticed about the Clonex gel... looks like it needs to be kept in the fridge, otherwise it loses its potency. Maybe the powder keeps longer at room temps.

 

[Azimuth]

I don't use any hormone at all. I root mine in perlite or coarse sand and mist them a couple of times a day. I see roots typically in 10-12 days.