Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

[cbdhemp808]

They still sell Roots Organic mix (and I think Roots has a factory here in Colombia).
They say it is only for veg (and then one has to add nutes for bloom). It is a little expensive, but still affordable.
"Ingredients: Perlite, Coco Coir, Peat, Composite Forest Material, Pumice, Worm Casting, Bat Guano, Soybean Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Herringbone Meal, Seaweed Meal, and Green Sand. Also contains beneficial mycorrhizal fungi: Funneliformis mosseae, Rhizophagus intraradices, Septoglomus desertícola to improve plant nutrient uptake, increase root biomass and help container grown plants resist stress."
No idea on NPK, though, but I would suspect high in N, and low in P and K.

I covered Roots Organic in my post on commercial potting soils. NPK is 1.00 - 0.50 - 0.50. So, as with most commercial mixes, you have to add nutrients basically right from the start. I wrote, "the recognized best NPK for growing cannabis appears to be 3.00 - 1.00 - 1.00 (for veg)." So, you see how deficient the commercial soil is. Nonetheless, the mix is probably a decent starting point, and then add more NPK, either as dry fertilizers, or as liquid for fertigation.

The locals dig a pit, throw their kitchen waste in it, and then use that for fertilizer in their gardens (basically, kitchen compost). We hope to make our own, to eliminate GMOs, etc. I will add worms (if they don't auto-populate).

Compost worms are special – they are not what people typically call an earthworm. They are usually called "red wigglers." They can devour a lot of compost rather quickly. I acquired some locally from a lady who had I think 3 species. I have 3 worm bins right now, and feed them kitchen scraps. But I have been a bad worm farmer... I need to get out there and tend to them.

There is maybe a foot of heavy clay volcanic topsoil everywhere here. It is very black and rich and fertile, but there is a LOT of clay. If I can find gypsum ("yeso") I can try to loosen it up long term (for future grows). Only, it will take time for the gypsum to do its thing, and I probably won't try that until we relocate to the property (maybe in about a year).

Coco coir would greatly help to add organic material to a clay soil. Please see this post on adding organic matter.

And I have like a lifetime supply of Epsom salts, Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid (although I am not really sure what they, are or how to use them!...)

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. I've heard to be careful using epsom salt. A probably better source of Mg is dolomite lime, which contains both Ca and Mg... it's calcium magnesium carbonate. There's more Ca than Mg, but there's lots of both. I've heard it's important to add both at the same time. Lastly, dolomite is considered "organic" because it contains carbon, and carbon helps microbes. If used in the right amount, dolomite lime will raise the pH to the correct range for cannabis.

 

[StoneOtter]

That's great, Stone! Thank you!
I hope I can get time to read the Rev someday!
However, I think I am getting CBD's point. No matter what formula I follow, if there is a balance to maintain, then I really need to have the soil tested first, so I can see what I've got before I go adding amendments willy-nilly, trying to hit a specific target.

I thought about separating the top 2/3 from the bottom 1/3, but now that I think more about it, I think I should just blend them both together and make supersoil (since supersoil is what I will be using in the SIPs).
Then I can buy a bag of that Roots Organic Veg soil for the Solo-Cup's worth. (I put it on the shopping list.)

Questions:
1. Are there home test kits for NPK? Or should I have the test professionally done?
2. Does microbial life do well in supersoil (hot soil)? Or not so much (and so I would be better off making straight soil, and adding spikes and layers?
3. Why is all the nitrogen on the bottom of the pot in the example above? Is it so the tap roots can lick up what they want, when they want it (similar to a spike)?
Thank you.

First, the soil of The Rev is made to be watered with RO water. So that would have to be something to be thought about. High ppm water is not for it.
I don't know about npk testing.
Microlife thrives in supersoil!
I don't know about the N on the bottom. I think it's just something for later?

 

[CBDMed]

It looks fantastic amigo, don't change a thing. That is exactly how I'm going to try to train my next Auto. Get those big leaves out of the way and the plant will take off!

Thank you, @Emilya Green ! It is indeed taking off! And the "larf colas" are almost caught up with the main two now!
Only, do you have a better solution for training the cola tips flat? I did not want to stick a whole bunch of stakes into the soil, because I don't want to hurt the roots. So I just laid them on top, but they are always falling down...

 

[CBDMed]

Hey CBD!
The Internet was out all day. I just got it back on, and am trying to catch up (and deadline is tomorrow).
You guys really know about dirt and ferts, don't you??

I covered Roots Organic in my post on commercial potting soils. NPK is 1.00 - 0.50 - 0.50. So, as with most commercial mixes, you have to add nutrients basically right from the start.

I wrote, "the recognized best NPK for growing cannabis appears to be 3.00 - 1.00 - 1.00 (for veg)." So, you see how deficient the commercial soil is. Nonetheless, the mix is probably a decent starting point, and then add more NPK, either as dry fertilizers, or as liquid for fertigation.

Wowza!! =:-o
I did not know that!!
Only, they say NOT to add fertilizer until you see your first set of true leaves.
So, that being the case, do I mix some GeoFlora VEG in with the Solo-Cup's-worth of soil? (Or NOT mix some GeoFlora VEG in with the Solo-Cup's-worth of soil?)

Alternately, do I make a layer at the bottom of the Solo-Cup's-worth?
Or do I make GeoFlora VEG spikes?
And where exactly would one place them, and how much, to help boost the soil?

And how do YOU boost the soil's NPK?

Compost worms are special – they are not what people typically call an earthworm. They are usually called "red wigglers." They can devour a lot of compost rather quickly. I acquired some locally from a lady who had I think 3 species. I have 3 worm bins right now, and feed them kitchen scraps. But I have been a bad worm farmer... I need to get out there and tend to them.

Ok, good to know! I will try to get some red wrigglers when we get to the property.

Coco coir would greatly help to add organic material to a clay soil. Please see this post on adding organic matter.

Ok, I can try mixing in some coco when I get some soil analysis back.

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. I've heard to be careful using epsom salt.

I have heard that also, but then I have heard Epsom Salt is not really a salt, and not to be so cautious.
So, how can I know for sure??

A probably better source of Mg is dolomite lime, which contains both Ca and Mg... it's calcium magnesium carbonate. There's more Ca than Mg, but there's lots of both. I've heard it's important to add both at the same time. Lastly, dolomite is considered "organic" because it contains carbon, and carbon helps microbes. If used in the right amount, dolomite lime will raise the pH to the correct range for cannabis.

Ok. Good to know!
I can tell I am going to need to learn a lot about dirt!

 

[Emilya Green]

I recommend using the stakes as intended, moving them when necessary. Use more than one if you have to to lay the line flat. Don't worry about the roots. Your mistake is in thinking that an accidentally cut root is egregiously harmed. It is not. Just like a topping up above, the root will split in two and now you have twice as many roots in that spot as before you plunged the spike through it. It might even be beneficial to air out the soil like you would thatch a lawn and stick multiple spikes in over and over again... lots more roots generated and soil loosened, and air driven down deep... sounds like a win for the home team!

I am joking of course... but trust me, you are not going to harm the roots in any meaningful way with a few spikes.

 

[CBDMed]

First, the soil of The Rev is made to be watered with RO water. So that would have to be something to be thought about. High ppm water is not for it.

Hey Stone!
I used to have an RO filter back when. It worked great. Only, I think the purpose of the RO was to get away from chlorine??
They say you can set water out for 24 hours, and the chlorine evaporates, so I have been doing that.
Only, we *just got our water test results back (after six weeks) and it says no chlorine! (So it is as I suspected--it is untreated creek water in a tube....)
0 Coliformes
0 E. Coli
It also says Ph 5.33 (!)
It also has very high particulate (being creek water--and in fact it looks like urine...).
That said, wouldn't an organic formula work with creek water?? Or is The Rev's formula special like that?

I don't know about npk testing.

We will have to track it down here.
It seems like the wise thing would be to test the soil before adding nutes.

Microlife thrives in supersoil!

Hmmm......
Microlife thrives in supersoil, but if you mix the layer or the spike in with the soil, it doesn't work??
(So sorry, not tracking...)

I don't know about the N on the bottom. I think it's just something for later?

Hmmm.....
But don't plantas need N in VEG (sooner), and then they switch to P and K later??
If so, why put a big thick layer of N on the bottom?
(Do the tap roots perhaps find it early, and know how to use it?)

 

[CBDMed]

I recommend using the stakes as intended, moving them when necessary. Use more than one if you have to to lay the line flat. Don't worry about the roots. Your mistake is in thinking that an accidentally cut root is egregiously harmed. It is not. Just like a topping up above, the root will split in two and now you have twice as many roots in that spot as before you plunged the spike through it. It might even be beneficial to air out the soil like you would thatch a lawn and stick multiple spikes in over and over again... lots more roots generated and soil loosened, and air driven down deep... sounds like a win for the home team!

I am joking of course... but trust me, you are not going to harm the roots in any meaningful way with a few spikes.

Thank you, @Emilya Green !

 

[CBDMed]

Here’s an example of the spikes

The spikes do not go to the bottom.. about 2 inches above is where they usually stop since there is also typically a compost layer on the bottom

Ahh, ok! Thank you, @Keffka!
Not sure why I did not see this the first time!
I am wrestling with a lot of different ideas right now, but I am wondering if I could put GeoFlora VEG spikes or layers near the outside edge of the Solo-Cup's-worth.
That way the plant does not get any extra fertilizers until it grows some, but then it has extra N.
And then I could put GeoFlora Bloom spikes or layers either down low, or further out??
(Head kind of spinning right now...)

 

[CBDMed]

Does this help?

How to Re-Amend Soil for Reuse in the Garden | Growing Organic

Have some pots that could use some nutrients after a few runs? Learn how to reamend your soil to support the next plants you use in the newly mixed soil.

growingorganic.com

Hey Shed!
Thank you for that!
Yes, I think it helps! But I think first I need to get my soil tested!
Thanks!!

 

[InTheShed]

but then I have heard Epsom Salt is not really a salt, and not to be so cautious.

As cbdhemp mentioned, it's magnesium sulfate, which means it will provide magnesium and sulfur to your plants if that's what they need. 1g in a gallon will give you 26ppm of Mg and 34ppm of S, so it doesn't take much to move the needle. For example, a teaspoon of epsom salts is 5 grams, which is a whole lot of Mg and S.

In terms of the "salt" question, almost all the main ingredients in synthetic nutrients are salts: magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, calcium nitrate...basically everything that provides NPK, Ca, Mg, or S are all salts.

Don't confuse salts with table salt (NaCl /sodium chloride) which will kill your plants.

Here is some reading on nutrient salts:
https://www.gardenmyths.com/salts-dont-kill-plants-or-microbes/

 

[cbdhemp808]

Only, they say NOT to add fertilizer until you see your first set of true leaves.

I make a special sprouting mix, by taking some of my custom grow mix, sifting out small stones, and adding more coco coir and perlite. This effectively reduces NPK.

This is how my plants start, and then at this point they are up potted to 1 gal pots with my normal grow mix. Stems get buried so that only about 1-2 in. is showing above the soil.

And how do YOU boost the soil's NPK?

I use organic fertilizers... see "My custom soil mix" in my signature.

I have heard that also, but then I have heard Epsom Salt is not really a salt, and not to be so cautious.
So, how can I know for sure??

Yes, magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) is a salt, chemically speaking. Not to be confused with table salt (sodium chloride), as Shed mentioned. When added to water, magnesium sulfate dissolves into Mg and S ions. Thanks, Shed, for the "salts don't kill" article.

I think the important thing is that calcium and magnesium should be added together. Too much Mg compared to Ca I think can cause some trouble. Maybe other folks can speak more about that.

 

[cbdhemp808]

1. Are there home test kits for NPK? Or should I have the test professionally done?

I have used this one, and I think it's probably fairly good. It will give you N, P, and K values from 0 to 4, by color matching. I recommend keeping the kit in a quart mason jar with a tight lid, and a fresh moisture packet in the jar (silica gel). You need to keep the capsules of powder from getting any moisture.

 

[StoneOtter]

That said, wouldn't an organic formula work with creek water?? Or is The Rev's formula special like that?

Creek water may be perfect for it. It's high mineral content that can mess it up the book says. PPM's of 50 and lower for water is his mandate or close to that.

 

[CBDMed]

As cbdhemp mentioned, it's magnesium sulfate, which means it will provide magnesium and sulfur to your plants if that's what they need. 1g in a gallon will give you 26ppm of Mg and 34ppm of S, so it doesn't take much to move the needle. For example, a teaspoon of epsom salts is 5 grams, which is a whole lot of Mg and S.

In terms of the "salt" question, almost all the main ingredients in synthetic nutrients are salts: magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, calcium nitrate...basically everything that provides NPK, Ca, Mg, or S are all salts.

Don't confuse salts with table salt (NaCl /sodium chloride) which will kill your plants.

Here is some reading on nutrient salts:
https://www.gardenmyths.com/salts-dont-kill-plants-or-microbes/

Good article, thanks!

 

[CBDMed]

I make a special sprouting mix, by taking some of my custom grow mix, sifting out small stones, and adding more coco coir and perlite. This effectively reduces NPK.

Ahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!
Great idea!

This is how my plants start, and then at this point they are up potted to 1 gal pots with my normal grow mix. Stems get buried so that only about 1-2 in. is showing above the soil.

I use organic fertilizers... see "My custom soil mix" in my signature.

Ok, I will have to digest that another time, because I am back on deadline.
I think you guys are wayyyy ahead of me in that department!
It may take me some time to catch up...

Yes, magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) is a salt, chemically speaking. Not to be confused with table salt (sodium chloride), as Shed mentioned. When added to water, magnesium sulfate dissolves into Mg and S ions. Thanks, Shed, for the "salts don't kill" article.

I think the important thing is that calcium and magnesium should be added together. Too much Mg compared to Ca I think can cause some trouble. Maybe other folks can speak more about that.

Ok, I will try to bear that in mind.

 

[CBDMed]

I have used this one, and I think it's probably fairly good. It will give you N, P, and K values from 0 to 4, by color matching. I recommend keeping the kit in a quart mason jar with a tight lid, and a fresh moisture packet in the jar (silica gel). You need to keep the capsules of powder from getting any moisture.

Ahh, ok!!
I found this on the Blue Danube, and ordered it.
We are also researching soil test facilities, and I will try to compare the two results.
(If I can get similar results, I will probably use this moving forward.)
Thanks!

 

[CBDMed]

Creek water may be perfect for it. It's high mineral content that can mess it up the book says. PPM's of 50 and lower for water is his mandate or close to that.

Ahhhhh, ok!!
Thank you, Stone!
Yeah, creek water is still natural. (It is just rainwater that has slid sideways.)
I have to go for right now, but I hope to be back tomorrow.
I ordered the test kits, and we will track down soil sampling here.
Thanks!!

 

[CBDMed]

We asked at a local nursery.
The man there says he grows cannabis in coco + pine tree (not sure what part or parts).

Do I want straight coco coir?
Or do I want coco + pine tree (parts)?
Thank you!

 

[InTheShed]

pine tree (parts)

Does that include squirrels?

 

[CBDMed]

Does that include squirrels?

Hahahahahahahaha!
I am NOT buying any squirrels!