In The Lab

hey doc, i have just found a mix with the following ingredients, i dont know how much of what is included, but it sounds usable if i am right.


Feather meal, bone meal, Guano Peru, rock phosphate, maerl, bentonite, basalt, seaweed meal, lava flour. Solution of organic NPK fertilizer (1-2-0). 1.2% total nitrogen (N), of which 1.2% organically bound nitrogen, 1.6% water-soluble phosphorus pentoxide (P 2 O 5) 0.35% water-soluble potassium oxide (K 2 O).
 
hey doc, i have just found a mix with the following ingredients, i dont know how much of what is included, but it sounds usable if i am right.


Feather meal, bone meal, Guano Peru, rock phosphate, maerl, bentonite, basalt, seaweed meal, lava flour. Solution of organic NPK fertilizer (1-2-0). 1.2% total nitrogen (N), of which 1.2% organically bound nitrogen, 1.6% water-soluble phosphorus pentoxide (P 2 O 5) 0.35% water-soluble potassium oxide (K 2 O).

sounds good for what? I'm not sure what you're asking?

Is it suitable for High Brix? Probably not. The guano, bone meal and especially feather meal are problematic. The bentonite is probably too high in K.....and it sounds like you're not going to have enough calcium.

What we're looking for in High Brix is a bit different...namely Ca/Mg ratio, P/K ratio, total calcium and a high CEC. Raw ingredients don't really mean much, unfortunately. I would not consider using that soil, personally.
 
Thanks for that information, i thought it would be good for high brix. :)

I start with basically 60 gallons of buffered peat moss. To that about a cup of amendment and 40 pounds of wormcastings are added to make High Brix soil.

I've found that most commercial potting soils have way, way, way more stuff added to them than what I add, and also have things in the wrong ratio's and too much of certain things, especially potassium, to be high brix.

I tested a bunch of them a couple years ago and they all failed pretty miserably. My own "supersoil" of which I was quite proud was the worst of the lot!

NPK thinking has us adding NPK to the soil in order to maximally feed the plant. All across the country this is done with salts, insecticides, herbicides and often fungicides. This is the direction crop science has been going since the colleges are funded by Agribusiness.

Then there are the organic gardeners who look at the federally mandated NPK analysis of natural substances and sort of blend the NPK thinking into an organic mindset.

And then you have the folks who feed the soil, either by tradition or education. Their knowledge can range from "compost is good" to folks who really know what they're doing.

High Brix is the next logical step from being an accomplished, successful organic gardener.

Minerals, Microbes, Magic. That's High Brix. The emphasis is on minerals, not organic matter or NPK.
 
I start with basically 60 gallons of buffered peat moss. To that about a cup of amendment and 40 pounds of wormcastings are added to make High Brix soil.

I've found that most commercial potting soils have way, way, way more stuff added to them than what I add, and also have things in the wrong ratio's and too much of certain things, especially potassium, to be high brix.

I tested a bunch of them a couple years ago and they all failed pretty miserably. My own "supersoil" of which I was quite proud was the worst of the lot!

NPK thinking has us adding NPK to the soil in order to maximally feed the plant. All across the country this is done with salts, insecticides, herbicides and often fungicides. This is the direction crop science has been going since the colleges are funded by Agribusiness.

Then there are the organic gardeners who look at the federally mandated NPK analysis of natural substances and sort of blend the NPK thinking into an organic mindset.

And then you have the folks who feed the soil, either by tradition or education. Their knowledge can range from "compost is good" to folks who really know what they're doing.

High Brix is the next logical step from being an accomplished, successful organic gardener.

Minerals, Microbes, Magic. That's High Brix. The emphasis is on minerals, not organic matter or NPK.

You forgot the most important part. You have created such an easy to use no guess work no real background knowledge needed system that anyone can use it. I know NOTHING about organic gardening and not much about salt based nutes either and am getting results beyond what I had hopped for especially for my first couple of grows.

While this statement is certainly true "High Brix is the next logical step from being an accomplished, successful organic gardener." The best part is that you don't actually need to be an accomplished successful organic gardner to use your system as long as you can follow the directions and get your env right :thumb:

In my journal you told me I did a good job by fixing my env problems and not chasing down deficiencies that don't exist. The reason I am able to do that is I know the plants are getting what they need as long as I follow the directions so as soon as something starts to go wrong I look at everything else first. If I was concocting my own soil / nutes I would not be able to have this same confidence and would assume I was feeding not enough or to much of something and be going nuts trying to chase it down.

You really are my cannabis hero Doc! :Namaste:
 
You forgot the most important part. You have created such an easy to use no guess work no real background knowledge needed system that anyone can use it. I know NOTHING about organic gardening and not much about salt based nutes either and am getting results beyond what I had hopped for especially for my first couple of grows.

While this statement is certainly true "High Brix is the next logical step from being an accomplished, successful organic gardener." The best part is that you don't actually need to be an accomplished successful organic gardner to use your system as long as you can follow the directions and get your env right :thumb:

In my journal you told me I did a good job by fixing my env problems and not chasing down deficiencies that don't exist. The reason I am able to do that is I know the plants are getting what they need as long as I follow the directions so as soon as something starts to go wrong I look at everything else first. If I was concocting my own soil / nutes I would not be able to have this same confidence and would assume I was feeding not enough or to much of something and be going nuts trying to chase it down.

You really are my cannabis hero Doc! :Namaste:

How did that problem work out for you?

I really appreciate your "take" on my kit. I'm very busy and I simply don't have a lot of time to garden, so I also appreciate the speed and simplicity of adding an ounce of this a few drops of that, stirring it and watering. I couldn't do what I do if I had to spend more time.
 
How did that problem work out for you?

I really appreciate your "take" on my kit. I'm very busy and I simply don't have a lot of time to garden, so I also appreciate the speed and simplicity of adding an ounce of this a few drops of that, stirring it and watering. I couldn't do what I do if I had to spend more time.

I need the system I use to be easy too. I have enough time but I am in a lot of pain a lot of that time and when I am hurting that bad I don't want to do anything not even work on my plants which is one of my favorite things to do.

They are happier now that the RH is back up and I went from needing to water them 1 gal per 15gal equiv pot every two days to 1 gal every 4 days. I was feeding them 2ml of transplant for both per watering which on my old watering schedule (about the last three weeks) they were getting on average .5ml of transplant per plant per day. I think this might of been a bit much and they will be much happier now. I do have a question though. My feeding schedule was this but since they have been getting so much transplant I was thinking of either not doing the a drench at all next week or maybe a single cat drench would be more effective? What are your thoughts? I can get you some new pictures tonight once the lights come on if it will help.

Week before flip, Energy Drench
Week of flip, Transplant Drench
Week 2 No drench
Week 3 Top dress with recharge and EWC No drench
Week 4 Cat Drenches
Week 5 Energy Drench
Week 6 No Drench
Week 7 Transplant Drench
Week 8 & probably 9 Energy Drench
Week 10 probably chop time
 
I need the system I use to be easy too. I have enough time but I am in a lot of pain a lot of that time and when I am hurting that bad I don't want to do anything not even work on my plants which is one of my favorite things to do.

They are happier now that the RH is back up and I went from needing to water them 1 gal per 15gal equiv pot every two days to 1 gal every 4 days. I was feeding them 2ml of transplant for both per watering which on my old watering schedule (about the last three weeks) they were getting on average .5ml of transplant per plant per day. I think this might of been a bit much and they will be much happier now. I do have a question though. My feeding schedule was this but since they have been getting so much transplant I was thinking of either not doing the a drench at all next week or maybe a single cat drench would be more effective? What are your thoughts? I can get you some new pictures tonight once the lights come on if it will help.

Week before flip, Energy Drench
Week of flip, Transplant Drench
Week 2 No drench
Week 3 Top dress with recharge and EWC No drench
Week 4 Cat Drenches
Week 5 Energy Drench
Week 6 No Drench
Week 7 Transplant Drench
Week 8 & probably 9 Energy Drench
Week 10 probably chop time

From the directions:

When in doubt about which drench to use, choose Growth Energy. :) You simply can't go wrong.
 
They'll stay on....sticky little devils. Nice job!

Haha so true! I couldn't be more happy with this plushberry, it looks even better than last round at this point and they turned out superb. I had to pick up stakes tonight some of the branches are already getting top heavy and starting to flop over. Another 3 or 4 weeks of fattening up and I am going to have more nugs then I know what to do with :thumb:

Not up to your level but not looking to shabby for a lazy newb on first run soil if I do say so my self :rofl: Thanks again for making this all easy and possible for someone like me with minimal knowledge of how all this really works.

Mid week 6 since flip date.
IMAG10848.jpg
 
I think the trics are gonna start dripping off of it if it packs to many more on :rofl:

I have a pic somewhere of a Jamaican Dream with dripping trichs. :cheesygrinsmiley: They were on the bottom edge of a tilted leaf and were all stretched down like drops about to fall.

:laughtwo:
 
I have a pic somewhere of a Jamaican Dream with dripping trichs. :cheesygrinsmiley: They were on the bottom edge of a tilted leaf and were all stretched down like drops about to fall.

:laughtwo:

:rofl: I was just kidding but I would love to see that if you ever stumble across it :thumb:

Sounds like you grew some Tricometites :rofl:
 
Heheh, found 'em. :cheesygrinsmiley:

DSCN27344.JPG


DSCN27345.JPG


I'd forgotten that there were actually what appears to be long tendrils of resin that look just like trichs that stretched and burst. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Heheh, found 'em. :cheesygrinsmiley:

DSCN27344.JPG


DSCN27345.JPG


I'd forgotten that there were actually what appears to be long tendrils of resin that look just like trichs that stretched and burst. :cheesygrinsmiley:

O man thats crazy, you sure you didn't get all baked and start licking on them... With the way they look none of us will think any less of you if you were in there licking on them :yummy:

The plushberries taste like plushberries :rofl:
 
Love it when I see that on my ladies, reminds me on icicles hanging off the roof. Beautiful picture my friend.
 
Ya, that's from a plant some old guy grew using Doc's kit. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
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