Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Will having a high brix prevent a plant that has PM in its system from showing spots? I've read that grapes once they are 12-15% mold/mildew no longer shows up and am curious if it's the same for Cannabis. But I did read it on the internet so who knows if that's even true.

I don't have PM right now but I've had in the past and was just curious about that.

Acidic soil attracts insects, while alkaline soil attracts molds, rusts, fungus, etc. Higher Brix=resistance to disease and pests, including PM.

I don't have any issues with PM at all. Like I said above, I do have mites and thripes for sure. I ignore them, mostly. Every now and then, especially when it's just days before harvest and the plant is slowing down, I'll see some webbing. It all gets washed off.

I have no fear at all over insects in my garden. Some growers I know haven't had any sign of mites since going High Brix.
 
Is it advantageous to stir soil while it's cooking? It was a pita to stir and mix in plastic bins without spilling or puncturing the bin. I took my time to stir and mix everything. I used a 40gal and a 20gal. Weighed out amendment to make it all equal (after shaking bag vigorously). Just hope I did a decent mix job.

Part of me wants to mix again...
 
Is it advantageous to stir soil while it's cooking? It was a pita to stir and mix in plastic bins without spilling or puncturing the bin. I took my time to stir and mix everything. I used a 40gal and a 20gal. Weighed out amendment to make it all equal (after shaking bag vigorously). Just hope I did a decent mix job.

Part of me wants to mix again...

You'll be just fine! when we broadcast minerals over an acre, they don't "mix" nearly as well as do do in our small bits of soil. remember, the roots are going to seek out and find what they need.

You'll be just fine!
 
Hey Doc Bud, new here but i've been reading up on your methods. I must say I am very impressed, you have the most beautiful plants. I just wanted to show you this lovely but quite small (15-16" LST'd) Jock Horror Auto from nirvana. I am using Subcool's super soil with FFOF. I was also wondering, since you have used sub's soil mix in the past, what you would top dress with. Im brewing compost tea every two weeks and water with it at full strength. Besides that nothing but water. I have a Wonder Woman fem coming to flower next. If you could help i would very much appreciate it. Thank you for your time!
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Here is a scenario for you Doc. I am too impatient to wait for soil. I will wait to allow proper cooking, but I really want to get some seedlings going prior to soil kickoff.

I have 2 options. I either fill some solo cups with soil that is not properly cooked just for maybe 2 weeks, and then pop them in brix soil, or I use some miracle grow soil that is about 2-1-1.

I know the proper option is to wait for cooking, but I am jonesing for a may harvest. I would like to get a small headstart with plants.

Also, my plan would be to plant my younglings into a 7-10 gallon pot and leave it there for duration.
 
Here is a scenario for you Doc. I am too impatient to wait for soil. I will wait to allow proper cooking, but I really want to get some seedlings going prior to soil kickoff.

I have 2 options. I either fill some solo cups with soil that is not properly cooked just for maybe 2 weeks, and then pop them in brix soil, or I use some miracle grow soil that is about 2-1-1.

I know the proper option is to wait for cooking, but I am jonesing for a may harvest. I would like to get a small headstart with plants.

Also, my plan would be to plant my younglings into a 7-10 gallon pot and leave it there for duration.

What I would do is just start them in the ProMix until your kit soil is ready :) *

Disclaimer: *Im proudly one of those 'misfits' (Im still :rofl: for that!) that Doc spoke of here:
"...Not only that, but I provide free support, unsolicited advice and negative opinions on most subject...... and there is a whole team of loosely associated misfits and ne'r-do-wells who also provide excellent advice.

It's hard to screw up. Some of us still manage to do so, but most people using the "the kit" are growing fabulous produce."
Shiggityflip Hits The Brix - Growing Using Doc Bud's High Brix Soil Kit
 
Gaffle, welcome to the DBHBB "gang" brotha! Just one way...OK....for your impatience, just start them in straight pro mix ....or mix half and half with straight pro mix and your 1/2 cooked DBHBB soil. When you moisten the soil to get them ready, ...use Transplant at 1 OZ/ Gal.
Only do this once , they will grow fine for a couple weeks doing this and will grow nicely when they go in the 100% DBHBB soil you've got cooking. Cheers and once again, welcome aboard. :thumb:
 
Im proudly one of those 'misfits' (Im still :rofl: for that!) that Doc spoke of here:
"...Not only that, but I provide free support, unsolicited advice and negative opinions on most subject...... and there is a whole team of loosely associated misfits and ne'r-do-wells who also provide excellent advice.

Personally I aspire to becoming a high brix ne'er-do-well. :smokin:

Yeah, another HB newbie with high hopes (beans in the ground, journal soon to be started).
 
Hey Doc Bud, new here but i've been reading up on your methods. I must say I am very impressed, you have the most beautiful plants. I just wanted to show you this lovely but quite small (15-16" LST'd) Jock Horror Auto from nirvana. I am using Subcool's super soil with FFOF. I was also wondering, since you have used sub's soil mix in the past, what you would top dress with. Im brewing compost tea every two weeks and water with it at full strength. Besides that nothing but water. I have a Wonder Woman fem coming to flower next. If you could help i would very much appreciate it. Thank you for your time!
IMG_282710.jpg
IMG_28298.jpg

I don't think I'd change a thing. The plants look good. The soil is on the hot side, which means adding small amounts of anything won't have too much effect. Perhaps the only thing I might experiment with is top dressing a bit of high calcium limestone. I'm not saying you should do this....but if you have the experimenting type of grow style, that would be one area to look into.
 
I don't think I'd change a thing. The plants look good. The soil is on the hot side, which means adding small amounts of anything won't have too much effect. Perhaps the only thing I might experiment with is top dressing a bit of high calcium limestone. I'm not saying you should do this....but if you have the experimenting type of grow style, that would be one area to look into.

Thank you so much for the reply, I do want to experiment in the future. However this is only my third grow and I feel as though I still have sooooo much to learn. I don't guess I will experiment with this Jock Horror but next time I grow one I'll do what you said to try. That way I have one just SS and ACT, then the next SS, ACT,top dress with a bit of High calcium limestone. So do you think this advice would be good for most strains? My up coming wonder woman, I want her to be a potent beast. I would love to try HIGH BRIX growing but my environment doesn't really allow for it. I can't control the humidity and temp as well as i'd like, i'm pretty sure you said you shouldn't try high brix if you don't have your environment dialed in. Mine works, but is far from where i want it. Is that correct? I mean who wouldn't love to grow some high brix!! Geeeez I do ramble on, sorry. Thank you again for your time!!!!
 
Thank you so much for the reply, I do want to experiment in the future. However this is only my third grow and I feel as though I still have sooooo much to learn. I don't guess I will experiment with this Jock Horror but next time I grow one I'll do what you said to try. That way I have one just SS and ACT, then the next SS, ACT,top dress with a bit of High calcium limestone. So do you think this advice would be good for most strains? My up coming wonder woman, I want her to be a potent beast. I would love to try HIGH BRIX growing but my environment doesn't really allow for it. I can't control the humidity and temp as well as i'd like, i'm pretty sure you said you shouldn't try high brix if you don't have your environment dialed in. Mine works, but is far from where i want it. Is that correct? I mean who wouldn't love to grow some high brix!! Geeeez I do ramble on, sorry. Thank you again for your time!!!!

If I were to advise you the first thing I'd say was to get the environment dialed in. Everything works better in a good environment. Subcool's soils, mine, hydro....proper temps and humidity are more important than any soil recipe or additive. Nothing will improve your produce more than a proper environment.

You're not growing the best you can without a good environment. Period.

The reason I suggested high calcium limestone is because your soil has a tremendous amount of organic material in it, which tends to lower soil Ph. Adding the limestone will not only give you a source of calcium, but will also stabilize pH.
 
If I were to advise you the first thing I'd say was to get the environment dialed in. Everything works better in a good environment. Subcool's soils, mine, hydro....proper temps and humidity are more important than any soil recipe or additive. Nothing will improve your produce more than a proper environment.

You're not growing the best you can without a good environment. Period.

The reason I suggested high calcium limestone is because your soil has a tremendous amount of organic material in it, which tends to lower soil Ph. Adding the limestone will not only give you a source of calcium, but will also stabilize pH.

Hey Doc Bud I'm feeling like it's time for me to jump on the brix train. It seems pretty obvious that the answer to anyone truly wishing to maximize the quality of any particular crop is to work on raising brix levels as high as possible for that particular plant.

I really respect the work you have been doing for years and I'm definitely interested in moving towards employing your methodology as opposed to pouring synthetically formulated and chelated nutrients from a bottle.

I'll be honest in that I have certainly NOT read every page of this thread but I hope that this question isn't too annoying.

Before I can switch to mixing my own promix with worm castings and utilizing the rock powders and other amendments and additives as per your instructions and teachings, I need to first complete my first grow and any subsequent grows necessary to finish my first use selection.

I'm currently using the complete line of advanced nutrients liquid nutes to much success, but I want to increase brix levels even higher.

From my understanding these advanced nutrients cover many of the important components of soil composition that you describe, but this system does NOT employ foliar feeding.

Do you think introducing a foliar feeding regimen 18 days into flowering would be wise, or even possible using the nutes I already own?
 
I'll be honest in that I have certainly NOT read every page of this thread but I hope that this question isn't too annoying.

Hah, real hard to burn through 600+ pages. Luckily this is a damn good community. I am pumped about getting my brix on. I feel like there is little to no failure due too all the information here. Go 420 GO!!!!
 
Hey Doc Bud I'm feeling like it's time for me to jump on the brix train. It seems pretty obvious that the answer to anyone truly wishing to maximize the quality of any particular crop is to work on raising brix levels as high as possible for that particular plant.

I really respect the work you have been doing for years and I'm definitely interested in moving towards employing your methodology as opposed to pouring synthetically formulated and chelated nutrients from a bottle.

I'll be honest in that I have certainly NOT read every page of this thread but I hope that this question isn't too annoying.

Before I can switch to mixing my own promix with worm castings and utilizing the rock powders and other amendments and additives as per your instructions and teachings, I need to first complete my first grow and any subsequent grows necessary to finish my first use selection.

I'm currently using the complete line of advanced nutrients liquid nutes to much success, but I want to increase brix levels even higher.

From my understanding these advanced nutrients cover many of the important components of soil composition that you describe, but this system does NOT employ foliar feeding.

Do you think introducing a foliar feeding regimen 18 days into flowering would be wise, or even possible using the nutes I already own?

No, I don/t think foliar feeding would be a good idea at all, given your situation. AN are salts. The roots have adapted to that. Foliar feeding will actually create trouble for you.
 
Hey Doc Bud I'm feeling like it's time for me to jump on the brix train. It seems pretty obvious that the answer to anyone truly wishing to maximize the quality of any particular crop is to work on raising brix levels as high as possible for that particular plant.

I really respect the work you have been doing for years and I'm definitely interested in moving towards employing your methodology as opposed to pouring synthetically formulated and chelated nutrients from a bottle.

I'll be honest in that I have certainly NOT read every page of this thread but I hope that this question isn't too annoying.

Before I can switch to mixing my own promix with worm castings and utilizing the rock powders and other amendments and additives as per your instructions and teachings, I need to first complete my first grow and any subsequent grows necessary to finish my first use selection.

I'm currently using the complete line of advanced nutrients liquid nutes to much success, but I want to increase brix levels even higher.

From my understanding these advanced nutrients cover many of the important components of soil composition that you describe, but this system does NOT employ foliar feeding.

Do you think introducing a foliar feeding regimen 18 days into flowering would be wise, or even possible using the nutes I already own?

I wish I was capable of answering this question myself as its pretty easy to find the constituent ingredients in the DB foliar and rejuvenate nutes but finding out what is in each AN bottle is next to impossible.

I'll have to check the bottles when I'm in the garden later.

I know I have humic and fulvic acid, I know that I have a kelp based nute, I believe there is a bottle with fish hydrosylates, as well I know that the sense Cal mag has calcium (not sure which form) but most of these nutes have nitrogen in every bottle...
 
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